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flipping the manifold


off2harrys

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Mine idles while cold with no ICV, the ecu doesnt even have an output for the ICV in fact. It can be a touch hard to start but a quick blip of throttle and it settles ok, thats if I can even remember it running....its been a while.

ssl12475medium.th.jpg

ssl12940medium.th.jpg

Its an early RS manifold completely shaven and smoothed which we were going to just turn around but Jamie got worried that it may foul my vented bonnet with the angle the throttle body had so he cut off the normal TB and welded a flat plate on the reverse side about as low on the plenum as posible. I have heaps of clearance now and have managed to remove 2.2m of piping without twisting the turbo yet (that should net me a further 400mm less)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi guys, I am in the middle of doing a manifold Flip on a V4 (dont need A/C any more as i have a company car).

The question is i am just tring to think up the best way to make a adjustable belt tensioner for the P/S, ALT belt. I have flipped the Alternator on its mount & yea thought i would ask everyone who has done this before for ther design ideas as i am not re inventing the wheel & what to make something that works & does not look like S#*t.

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this was my first attempt and got it all up and running with factory ecu and icv, looks abit different now as with aftermarket ecu has removed afm icv and silcones all been shortened cleaned up

IMG_0029.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

yes at least a minute when dead cold or your bound to stall the car as the idle just dies, i reckon alot would prefer to keep icv as it can be such a bitch but i prefer it as its similar to driving a older car that needs encouragement

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ok well thats one issues resolved...... due to lazyness in the morning i will be keeping ICV.

my other question is........ if i chopped the throttle body off and attached it to the frount will this affect flow thru the intake manifold? as it looks like it would, rather than flow nicely it would kinda hit a wall then find its way thru.....

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 dubbedup said:

ok well thats one issues resolved...... due to lazyness in the morning i will be keeping ICV.

my other question is........ if i chopped the throttle body off and attached it to the frount will this affect flow thru the intake manifold? as it looks like it would, rather than flow nicely it would kinda hit a wall then find its way thru.....

should be ok my new manifold thats goin on is done like that, so dont need to flip the whole manifold.

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 driftrex']

[quote name='dubbedup said:

ok well thats one issues resolved...... due to lazyness in the morning i will be keeping ICV.

my other question is........ if i chopped the throttle body off and attached it to the frount will this affect flow thru the intake manifold? as it looks like it would, rather than flow nicely it would kinda hit a wall then find its way thru.....

/quote]

should be ok my new manifold thats goin on is done like that, so dont need to flip the whole manifold.

cheers

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...
 98WRX (PEASANT RACING) said:

Hi guys, I am in the middle of doing a manifold Flip on a V4 (dont need A/C any more as i have a company car).

The question is i am just tring to think up the best way to make a adjustable belt tensioner for the P/S, ALT belt. I have flipped the Alternator on its mount & yea thought i would ask everyone who has done this before for ther design ideas as i am not re inventing the wheel & what to make something that works & does not look like S#*t.

how did you go making this??

the adjustible belt tensioner.

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 off2harrys said:

what happens to the bumper rail?do you have to rip it off and make a custom 1?anyone got any pics of what theyve done?

Are you talking about when you run the intercooler pipes under the headlights? I run an extremely modified and extremely unsafe bumper bar. Sadly when running your piping like this you have no choice!

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 dubbedup said:

there are sevearl ways of doing the relocation of alternator, just work it out as you go is prolly the best.

can it be done using the existing bit?

or would i need other/extra bits for modding?

if i can use the bits ive got as in whats already on the alt/mtr etc,

will try it in the morn, if not will wait till i get whats needed.

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this modification is so much easier than everybody thinks, you can do it for quite cheap aswell.

with the alternator.. cut and grind off the top of the steel bracket so that the alternator can flip over and sit hard up against its own bracket. done.

with the intake manifold.. remove and take to engineer and get him to cut and reweld the throttle body mount on the other side. done.

with the tensioner.. grab a piece of steel strap (approx 4mm thick) from an metal place, grab a cam belt pulley from an old car at pick-a-part, drill a hole in 1 end and pivot off the alternators bolt, drill another hole at the other end and use a nut and bolt to hold the tensioner in place using the power steering bracket. drill a hole in the middle and bolt the cam belt pulley in place, get a measuring tape and work out what size belt you need and your done.

finally with the intercooler piping.. grab a few pieces of pipe (90's, 180's, straights, 45's) and play with them untill you get them all lined up (use masking tape to act as a temporary weld) once satisfied draw lines so you know the angles of the welds and take to engineer to weld up.

I did my reversed manifold set-up for no more than $100

DSC00895.jpg

DSC00120800x600.jpg

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 evlRA said:

this modification is so much easier than everybody thinks, you can do it for quite cheap aswell.

with the alternator.. cut and grind off the top of the steel bracket so that the alternator can flip over and sit hard up against its own bracket. done.

with the intake manifold.. remove and take to engineer and get him to cut and reweld the throttle body mount on the other side. done.

with the tensioner.. grab a piece of steel strap (approx 4mm thick) from an metal place, grab a cam belt pulley from an old car at pick-a-part, drill a hole in 1 end and pivot off the alternators bolt, drill another hole at the other end and use a nut and bolt to hold the tensioner in place using the power steering bracket. drill a hole in the middle and bolt the cam belt pulley in place, get a measuring tape and work out what size belt you need and your done.

finally with the intercooler piping.. grab a few pieces of pipe (90's, 180's, straights, 45's) and play with them untill you get them all lined up (use masking tape to act as a temporary weld) once satisfied draw lines so you know the angles of the welds and take to engineer to weld up.

I did my reversed manifold set-up for no more than $100

DSC00895.jpg

DSC00120800x600.jpg

do the fans have to be removed also??

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