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Battery relocation Question


Johnnynz

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To the people who are saying longer cable = more current loss - yes correct - but also your saying the bigger the better ?? The laws of current drop also state that the thicker the cable the more current loss also

I've done heaps of battery relocations - some with proper wire from a sparky - some with simple 4 gauge wire - same results - also back in the days when I first did it I ran a positive and negative through to the back - was definitely harder to start with more current drop = less current at starter - when earthing the head to the engine bay - and earthing the battery to a solid earth on the boot hae never had any issues

Bit one question for a sparky tho

Would sensor values be slightly screwed from having a longer path ??

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 WRXONP said:

To the people who are saying longer cable = more current loss - yes correct - but also your saying the bigger the better ?? The laws of current drop also state that the thicker the cable the more current loss also

I've done heaps of battery relocations - some with proper wire from a sparky - some with simple 4 gauge wire - same results - also back in the days when I first did it I ran a positive and negative through to the back - was definitely harder to start with more current drop = less current at starter - when earthing the head to the engine bay - and earthing the battery to a solid earth on the boot hae never had any issues

Bit one question for a sparky tho

Would sensor values be slightly screwed from having a longer path ??

Ummm??? Current drop? You got anything to support this makes it worse? as a sparky the best thing to do is have less current which is less heat, current = wattage/voltage, so having bigger cable you have a higher voltage (less volt drop) which is more important so therefor you draw less current.

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less yoltage = more current.... more voltage = less current

SHould you just get the correct size cable instead? Yes big cables help, but doesnt mean I should install a 500mm2 flex because "big is better".

FLC of a starter motor would only be present for a few seconds under normal starting duty. Hardly a workout for say a 25-35mm2 cable.

If your a ICE boom head, then yes larger current present for longer time you should look at maybe 50mm2.

With regards to -ve. To the chassis. Shortest cable run always.

The ECU normaly use a Reference (internally) of -ve and +ve to compensate for any fluctuations.

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