Brake issues

[rex-leggy]

+1 you dont want to wreck your new lines

[dzk]

Thanks Cuddas, will try that before the swap of lines.

So just to be clear, clamp all 4 lines at all 4 corners, if all solid then this rules out master cylinder being the issue?

Then clamp one line at a time and check pedal feel?

Or having all 4 clamped and releasing one at a time, e.g 3 clamped check pedal feel, 2 clamped check pedal feel and so on?

Thanks for your help so far

(I will clamp on the rubber hoses and NOT on the new braided ones as advised)

[DRFVDR]

release one at a time would be bette r

[CUDDAS]

Yes release one at a time, does pay to do this a couple of times,

as to brake pedal feel while bleeding, if all are in good condition - when bleeding the rear brakes you'll feel the pedal will only travel half way down & not too the floor. this is fine as its just the first half of the master cylinder activating for the rear calipers, & as for the fronts you will notice full pedal travel to the floor, which is also normal,

it only takes a small air bubble too, to cause a spongy pedal & there are also a couple of subtle ways/tricks to bleed brakes even stubben ones, but remember its not a race & its not finishing off the missus's

[Guest]

also while bleeding ive heard its a good idea to keep the bleeding container higher than the caliper. not too sure how much of an effect this would have though :-/

[DRFVDR]

 VADZTER said:

also while bleeding ive heard its a good idea to keep the bleeding container higher than the caliper. not too sure how much of an effect this would have though :-/

Maybe and only maybe if you are using one of them one man pressure bleeders then this will help,

normally wont make any difference

[dzk]

Haven't got around to clamping lines yet but will look to try this out this weekend. I am hoping it is the lines, then I can fit the braided ones and be done with this pedal feel issue.

[dzk]

Update (so will my brakes sorted for now)

"From we are borg"

Ok next step is how does the brakes feel once the pressure comes on, do they give a hard pedal or is it still spongy

if still spongy then I would have a close inspection for leaks.

if hard I would have a look at the pedal stroke adjustment

Okay so clamped the lines and everything seemed fine from a master cylinder and caliper point of view. Lazykiwi and I went about changing to the goodridge lines and another couple of bleeds using motul rbf600. Also lazy kiwi made some adjustment on the pedal stroke which was a couple of mm.

Much happier with the brakes. The brakes seem to come on earlier in the pedal stroke and are stopping a lot harder. Lazykiwi had driven the car before the above and thought the brakes were good.

From what I have read with other forums to do with pedal feel, a lot of people have said subaru brakes have more pedal travel compared to other cars like Toyota's or Honda's. I guess I was expecting the same pedal travel.

So if anyone else is doing this here is a summary and approximate cost just to give you an idea and for me to see how much I spent (and this is mostly just the front brakes)

-Front 4 pots second hand $200

-Genuine Subaru seal kit for 4 pots from Winger Subaru Auckland $65

-Genuine Subaru Cross Springs x 2 from Winger Subaru Auckland $103.50

-Cusco master cylinder brace/bracket $177

-Dba650s slotted front rotors - $412

-Average trw brake pads - $90

-Motul brake fluid rbf600 $30 per 500ml bottle

-Goodridge brake lines $199

Thank you to everyone that commented and contributed.

[CUDDAS]

i would have spent a little more on brake pads