best polish to use so I don't get swirly patterns?

[Guest dynofiend]

My Mx5 came to me with obviously many years of washing with dirty sponges. The paint itself was in excellent condition, good colour and condition, just really really badly swirled. I tried scratch X on it (isolating one small area) and used 10 applications. It removed the smaller swirls (spider web sized ones), but it was quickly evident that to get anywhere would require a porter cable or similar (it didnt touch the 'hair' sized scratches). However, I found out that MX5s have particularly thin paint, and as such, machine polishing might not be a viable option, and the value of the car didnt warrant spending that much money either! So out came the SRP. Some months later, and less than 10 applications, and the car is looking alot better all over than even my small test area did. Still looks like its been attacked by a scouring pad up close, but only once, as opposed to several times as before

[Swindog]

I know someone up there ^ said stay away from Waterless Car wash systems but have you checked out the Dri-Wash products?

I used to use all the meguiars and mothers stuff. I use NXT gen car wash, meguiars clay bar and then the nxt gen polish and finally mothers carnuba wax. Gave a brillant shine and looked the biz but man it would get dirty quick and attract awhole lotta dust.

I found Dri-Wash....BUT like they say to use it i didnt. I did the NXT gen car wash (two bucket method as i normally do) then clay barred it and then polished it the dri-wash. Results...amazing...far more shine and gloss then the other products AND you can use it on glass and trim. The best thing is it wont show up finger prints.

It stays cleaner longer, there are NO swirl marks that it shows, it beads water like nothing else. I did this once 2 months ago. I have washed it twice since then and shamie(the leather ones however you spell it) and it looks like ive just polished it. Its a good product and in my mind just as good if not better than the big brands.

I have yet to use Autoglym but i have heard good things. When someone shows me ON MY car i wont switch.

I did a demo for Southern Autos with the Dri-Wash. It was on a dark green metallic range rover. It was filthy. I cleaned a small spot on the rear guard. They washed it and it went on a raod test. Its currently filthy again sittingon the yard and all your eye draws to is the one spotless and dry patch on the rear guard.

Its a polymer based product and works the same as SRp and you can build on coats. Eventually EVERYTHING wears off a cars paint surface but you can build a armour coat if you do it right and this what the polymer coat does. Dri-wash also provides a cutting compound for bad paint...an anti oxidiser.

It is awesome stuff.

Ill put some pics when i get home of the finished product the first time i used Dri-Wash after the clean and clay bar.

PFS - depending where you are id be keen to give you a demo on this system and change your mind about the dri-wash system (not all the dri-wash systems are the same even though they may use the same name)

I think even you will be impressed.

[QRAF]

As my cars paint job is only a year old i just apply mothers caruba 3rd stage when i clean my car but i'm sick of the white residue it leaves when your buffing it off.

I've been told to stay away from waxes as i have clear coats is this true?

And where do you buy this dry-wash you talk about?

[Swindog]

Dri-wash doesnt leave any white residue on anything.

Click on my sig and have a look first. If you want you can buy online. If your around Tauranga way i can get Tony to give you ademo. They sell to the major car brands in Auckland... ie ferrari etc.

[Guest]

 Swindog said:

PFS - depending where you are id be keen to give you a demo on this system and change your mind about the dri-wash system (not all the dri-wash systems are the same even though they may use the same name)

I think even you will be impressed.

I did actually have the dri-wash products demonstrated to me quite recently. (By Tony at the Kumeu Hot Rod Show in fact) Simply put, I cannot reconcile the idea of rubbing anything on a dirty car without first ensuring that as much excess dirt is rinsed off before touching the paint, and that the paint is as well lubricated as possible before you do touch it to prevent that dirt from inflicting scratches.

I do like the approach that you've taken, by washing/prepping your car first and using the dri-wash purely as a protectant layer on the paint. It may well be an extremely good "Last Step Product" - certainly the 'marketing' leads one to believe that it employs similar 'bonding polymer' technology that is used by the 'significantly better than NXT' product that we offer from Blackfire. As you point out, this enables you to build up 'layers' of protection. (It also allows for the application of natural Carnauba wax over synthetic sealants without smearing )

To address the person above with the 1yr old paint. Generally non factory-baked paint comes with a recommendation to leave the surface un-waxed for a period (normally closer to 6 weeks than a year!!) to allow the paint to properly cure. I have also found that the Mothers product you mention leaves a residue. This can be minimised by working in the shade, working on small sections at a time, and ensuring a thin, uniform application of the wax in the first place - but it is definitely a 'fiddly' product to work with. As I'm not affiliated with any product in particular, I'm reluctant to make a recommendation for you without first seeing your vehicle - but if you do have any further questions, I'd be happy to help you out.

[WRXER]

I'll definitely be taking some photos to show u my issues lol shortly, although my mates all think I have a hell shiny car as it is.... Previous owner was very good on buffing it etc, but unfortunately after years of this is has scratched the clear with swirl patterns. To the untrained eye it isn't noticeable but when it's ur baby u see it easy haha. I'll definitely be asking for some recommendations mate shortly when I get my wrx back from being caged.

[Swindog]

Tonys a good bugger. Hes who i buy my product off and is actually my father in laws best mate.

I spose he told you how it wraps it like a jelly bean etc etc?

In theory it works well and we did this experiment in 7th form physics years and years ago which follows the same principle. And it works.

Ive seen him do some filthy cars....it has to be done right though otherwise you do get scratches. The metal polish is also fantastic.

AND i also have a palm polisher. This helps to no end with application, especially of the carnuba wax. BUT be aware you need one pad on and one pad off for each product. It can end up being expensive!

[Swindog]

Heres the pics of the car done after a wash, clay bar and Dri-Wash applied. This was all done in the sun. Perfect results. The muffler box was metal polished and dri-wash applied over the top.

[Guest]

you didn't get below the rear rego plate there lol, nah that looks real mint! where do you get that clay bar dri wash stuff from?

[Guest]

not the clearest pic but i use meguires wash and the turtle wax polish you squirt on and rub off, also comes as a bar, i'v forgotn the exact name of it.

[Swindog]

 sharktale said:

you didn't get below the rear rego plate there lol, nah that looks real mint! where do you get that clay bar dri wash stuff from?

the clay bar is your meguiars clay bar package and you get dri-wash by clicking in my sig !

[Guest]

I clicked your sig, but i received nah thing lol.

[BC5RA]

Swindog; can you tell me what muffler you have? is it a 3'5 inch tip?

[Swindog]

Dytech Racing Muffler.

Think its a 4" from memory.

[stira]

Going to give the Ra a good clean on Saturday. Should I start with a paint cleaner or a clay bar? sorry im a bit confused at the moment if this is an easy answer. ???

[BC5RA]

 stira said:

Going to give the Ra a good clean on Saturday. Should I start with a paint cleaner or a clay bar? sorry im a bit confused at the moment if this is an easy answer. ???

This is Newsubas post in this thread by far the best way.

For major cleans I use a four-step method with Meguiars products.

1. Wash with a good car detergent

2. Remove surface gunk with a claybar.

3. Attend to scratches with Scratch-X scratch remover.

4. Wax with NXT Techwax 2.0

At each step cleanliness of your cleaning cloths, brushes etc. is paramount to minimising swirling etc.

[stira]

That it is then. I wonder if its good enough to remove the dent in the door

[BC5RA]

How bad is the dent? if it makes you feel any better I've got a hold in my bonnet and a dent in my front drivers fender.

[stira]

Do Ra's attract them? It looks like the door was opened into something, then the car driven forward.Its going to require panelbeating. Theres a few things that need tidying up, nothing else major though i hope. Ill know alot more after a good clean.

So looks like ill be off to supercheap to get a clay bar kit and some NXT on saturday morning.

[Guest]

 stira said:

Going to give the Ra a good clean on Saturday. Should I start with a paint cleaner or a clay bar? sorry im a bit confused at the moment if this is an easy answer. ???

Just echoing the comments above...

My personal suggestion is that you only really need one or the other But the paint cleaner will likely have a very mild cutting agent, so best to use that after the clay if you're going to use both.

Generally speaking, automotive paint care comprises the following steps:

1) Wash. This is exactly what is sounds like. Using a shampoo and water to wash away the dirt on your car

2) Clean. Once washed, you will still have contaminants on your paint. This might be spots of tar, bonded grime, etc. (if you're unlucky to park close to a railway line, it's not uncommon for tiny metal filings to settle on your car and bond with the paint ) The clean stage deals with things like this. Using a claybar is a technique that has really become popular in recent times. Prior to this, paint cleaners were used to achieve the same goal, but the "application" was more labour intensive, being applied in the same way that you would a traditional polish.

3) Polish. This should only ever (IMHO) be performed on perfectly clean and smooth painted surfaces. Fundamentally, it is the process of "levelling" the painted surface. ie. removing the small top layer of the paint that contains microscopic scratches/blemishes that are seen as "swirls" or even deeper scratches or etching - leaving a perfectly flat surface for light to reflect off. This is where automotive detailing becomes a real art . With a myriad of tools & products (Cutting/Compounding/Polishing/Glazing/Refining/Wool Mops/Foam Pads/ Dual Action Orbital Buffers/Rotary Polishers/etc.) all with their respective good and bad attributes, all needing to be brought together in the most effective way for that particular car without removing any more of the paint than is absolutely necessary to achieved the desired results.

4) Protect. This is the job performed by a good wax or sealant. It really "locks in" all the hard work that done in the polishing stage and provides a layer of protection from the elements. Some protection products also work well to 'mask' defects in the paint. Some can even make poor/faded paint look glossy and new again. However, a vehicle that has been perfectly prepared in the polishing step should have very little (if any) visual enhancement from even the worlds most expensive waxes.

5) Maintain. Who really wants to go through all that drama every tiem they wash their car? A well prepared and well protected vehicle can be kept in great shape for many months at a time with a smart program of regular maintenance, either by way of Quick Detailers, or quick washes with wax top ups.

I hope that is helpful and hasn't confused people further?

Good luck with your detail this weekend! I'm sure however you go about it, you'll be very satisfied with the results. (sorry to hear about the dent - that really sux!)

[stira]

Cheers for that. Newsubas recipes call for three different products, yours looks like about five, is there a difference?

[Guest swiftbrad]

my Mother uses mothers

and She's quite relaxed 'bout it

:

[Guest]

 stira said:

Cheers for that. Newsubas recipes call for three different products, yours looks like about five, is there a difference?

Nope - no real difference.

Newsuba covered off the first 4, which only leaves the maintenance step out. You won't even need to consider this until at least next weekend

So that it's all 100% clear, Newsuba's advice was

1) Wash (though to be picky, detergent=bad, shampoo=good but that's just semantics...)

2) Clean (with a claybar)

3) Polish (take scratches out with ScratchX)

4) Protect (he recommended the NXT Techwax)

...while you're shopping, you might want to consider grabbing some quick detail spray as well for...

5) keeping it looking good after you've been driving it for a while.

...if you're going "All Meguiars", they have a decent "NXT Speed Detailer" spray that works well with the NXT wax.

[stira]

woohoo confusion gone, sore arms saturday night for me.

[newsuba]

Wax on, wax off Karate Kid (due for another crap Hollywood remake ??? ) style is good for you !

Follow PFS's advice.

He's the expert in the field.

No need to specifically use Meguiars or any other brand, as PFS said earlier, the product is only ~20% of the job.

Correct application and sound methodology is much more important.

One final comment; as you'll probably be doing all this inside this weekend, make sure you have good ventilation.

;D