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The "Hose 10" Mod - BE/BH


Marky

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Done my first mod :) Thanks for your help Marky.

The primary definitely spools much more quickly, and I am noticing when I take my foot off the accelerator, the boost drops far quicker. I'm guessing that can only be a good thing mechanically.

The only drawbacks I am noticing is that neither turbo will spool above 7-8PSI now, where I was getting more like 10 before.

Also the VOD seems more noticeable. Not sure if that's because of the lower boost levels or what. Is that what others are experiencing?

I'm going to have a poke around for any leaks tomorrow anyway.

Either way, its so much more responsive and accelerates much more quickly, so even if I can't lift the PSI, I'd still keep it :D

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Sounds like you may have blocked off hose #10. There are two hose #10's, one is the bleed/recirc for the ECV duty solenoid (coming from BBOD) and the other hose #10 is the bleed/recirc from the primary boost solenoid (coming from behind battery). If hose #10 is blocked you will get WGSP of 7-8psi.

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Wait... there's two of them? The one I removed and bunged is the one with the red arrow pointing to it in my post last weekend... If I follow it, it runs parallel to another hose of similar gauge, past the battery, then disappears behind the fusebox... worried I'll stuff my car now :confused:

There aren't any other hoses being teed off between my BOV and intake mani.

Edited by RedLine
Speaking bad England
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Sweet, Rev D. The OEM boost solenoid is inside the F/L guard. Hose 23 from the primary turbo runs into the guard to the solenoid, then hose 10 from the solenoid passed the battery back to the intake pipe near the BOV.

Hose 10 is the bleed/vent hose for the boost solenoid. It needs to breath, either connected to the intake or venting to atmosphere. Hose 10 cannot be blocked.

Primary boost solenoid:

Primary_Boost_Control_TT_004.jpg

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Hmm, mine is a 2001, so it can't be Rev D can it?

Ok, I'm going to un-bung the hose I took off now, as it sounds like hose 10... Hope I haven't done any damage :S

So is there any benefit in just un-bunging it and leaving it disconnected (so that there is a straight hose from the BOV to mani, but hose 10 can breathe), or should it be connected back to the T?

Cheers for your help.

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Check the applied model code on the tag that's on the left strut tower under the bonnet. But looking at your piping and TB you have a rev D:

http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~ccgrant/leggymodels.htm

It wont of done any damage at all. Just means that the boost solenoid cant bleed any pressure off to increase boost, giving WGSP (waste gate spring pressure).

If this is what it looked like OEM:

HTdnyHI.jpg

This is what you want to do, so hose 10 is bleeding back to the intake pipe:

HTdny_HI.jpg

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Thanks - I'll take a look now. I didn't see any T's in hose 10 to take it back to the turbo - it just seems to be a hose that goes from the solenoid to (previously) the BOV tee. Can confirm it was hose 10... it says on it haha. I clearly wasn't paying enough attention yesterday...

Welp, good to know I have a rev-d at least!

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Ok, I'll accept the Muppet award :o

I missed the T that came off hose 10... Hose 10 must have slipped off the primary intake T when I did it, and it was "hidden" under the big hose that goes to the top of the BOV... so hose 10 to solenoid was blocked, and hose 10 to the primary was just open.

I've fixed it now, and its definitely driving better. I have my old boost pressure back (and then some) which is awesome. Definitely much quicker spooling times.

Here's a quick and nasty diagram of what I think I did wrong, just for reference and if any other newbies are confused.

osn1u02g.gv5.png

Also, mine is definitely a Rev D: BE5D48D

Thanks for your help guys, very much appreciated!

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I genuinely don't know how ^ that went wrong, but anyway

Did it to wifeys new rev-d on the weekend, time taken approx 8-12 seconds - take hose off the T junction before the BOV, block hose, put a cap on the open T outlet, done

Will use said outlet for a boost gauge if it ever gets one

Net result - goes a bit better, neat

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...
 Kol12 said:
Cool, so a lot you guys have done it with no problems? Do you leave it permanently?

Some pics with arrows pointing to which hoses to play with could be helpful..

Mine had it since I got it, so about 2 years, no problems from it.:)

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I've found what I think is hose 10 but I'm still not really sure what to do with it. The hose I'm looking at has the number 10 printed on it and I followed it out towards the battery. I think it is the hose for the boost solenoid out in the fender by the battery is that right?

20160216_152136.jpg

20160216_152154.jpg

20160216_152452.jpg

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In that first picture, the bit labeled Hose 10 is the bit you want to lose, the hose with anything happen here you want to replace with a single hose, so no T in it, just straight from manifold to BOV.

The other end of the smaller Hose 10 needs blocking, or I think you can use all the bits there to get rid of the end to make it look all factory.

Taking the BOV re-circulation hose off helps with access there.

You intercooler looks like a 15 year old one!

Its not hard to bend the fins, also not hard to bend them back, much easier when its not on the car.

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 Percy said:
In that first picture, the bit labeled Hose 10 is the bit you want to lose, the hose with anything happen here you want to replace with a single hose, so no T in it, just straight from manifold to BOV.

The other end of the smaller Hose 10 needs blocking, or I think you can use all the bits there to get rid of the end to make it look all factory.

Taking the BOV re-circulation hose off helps with access there.

You intercooler looks like a 15 year old one!

Its not hard to bend the fins, also not hard to bend them back, much easier when its not on the car.

By lose do you mean disconnect it at both ends or just from the blue T piece? If just from the T piece do you block "hose 10" off somehow?

Do I need to buy some pipe from somewhere to run it straight through?

I'm not getting the bit about the other smaller hose, you mean the one with an actual 10 printed on it right?

15 years old! What? Are you actually meant to replace these periodically or something? Car's only done 120K. What looks so rough about it, the bent pins? What causes this?

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It's literally a 30 second job

20160216_152136.jpg

The one labelled "Hose 10?" - all that needs to happen is for this hose to be blocked. Cut it and use screws to seal, cable tie it in half, whatever floats your boat.

That is literally the minimum required and will achieve what you are wanting

The tidy way to do it is removing the blue T piece, replace the hose to the BOV with one long one, repeat the same with the other junction under the BOV outlet.

Regarding your intercooler, it's just people leaning on it or resting tools etc on it. It's about the only thing the top mount is good at. You can just bend the fins back to straight

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 Marky said:
It's literally a 30 second job

The one labelled "Hose 10?" - all that needs to happen is for this hose to be blocked. Cut it and use screws to seal, cable tie it in half, whatever floats your boat.

That is literally the minimum required and will achieve what you are wanting

The tidy way to do it is removing the blue T piece, replace the hose to the BOV with one long one, repeat the same with the other junction under the BOV outlet.

Regarding your intercooler, it's just people leaning on it or resting tools etc on it. It's about the only thing the top mount is good at. You can just bend the fins back to straight

Ok, where do I get some hose from to run straight through?

"the other junction" I'm guessing is the one I have labeled "another tee" right?

20160216_152154.jpg

There seems to be multiple pipes on this tee so I'm not exactly sure of the "same procedure". Is it basically just removing hose 10 from this end of the tee as well and blocking it off?

How do you undo the clamp on the BOV outlet?

Edited by Kol12
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