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Help with CEL code 44


MadorEJ20TT

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The diag mode should move the exhaust actuator (not the wastegate, though it looks like one) in and out if the car is idling (but not if it\'s not running), the secondary turbo valve uses vacuum for part of it\'s actuation... don\'t worry about that, sounds like it\'s switching over fine anyway so can disregard that

The change in note you hear is the second turbo being woken up, not the gate opening - the secondary wastegate genuinely is not used in normal operation. Notice how the engine sound changes from burrrrrr to bubbubbubbub and your boost comes back all of a sudden? Thats\' it switching back to single turbo

The flat spot you\'re getting is a normal TT thing, it\'s stuck on twin turbo mode for a few seconds if you shift just as it\'s switching over - it\'s the biggest problem with them but you can eliminate it with a zerosports sequential controller (worry about it later and good luck finding one)

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Yeah GL finding one -_- (ZeroSports)

I checked out my Post turb connections this morning, found the TB - Intercooler - TB Side Hose clamp was broken, would keep turning "tight" but not tighten the clamp, so replaced that and its running alot nicer now, havent run into the no boost problem yet, just that part where it spools both turbs but they are both spooled by 4krpmish but thats fun im happy with that,

Just the no adjustable boost left to go now, and the ungodly amount of fuel it uses, Full tank of 96 downed in 3 days -_-

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The gas use will be tied to the problem, you\'ll normally get 400-500km to a tank

300 if you have a dom toretto weekend

Not many places for a leak -

turbo to intercooler pipe (doubt it, it\'s plastic)

BOV itself

Intercooler to TB (you found it but I have seen a few where the hose itself is ripped from munters getting intercooler back on)

Manifold gaskets (doubt it)

Don\'t worry about the boost raise for now

If you can there\'s an easy way to pressure test things yourself

Block the inlet hose (like a baked beans can clamped where the AFM is), get a bike pump or better yet an air compressor, plug it into any old vacuum hose (the one from the turbo to wastegate is perfect) - pressurise the lot and listen for leaks. You would be amazed how many tiny leaks cars develop over the years and it\'s a quick easy way to find them

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I reckon its something to do with the Vac Lines... Ive seen a few pics now of other cars lines and mine look like they are going willy nilly anywhere lol...

Would be nice if someone on here is in Gisborne and can park next to mine to compare origin and destination of these Vac Lines?

Will try that trick when I got spare time next, and the TB - Intercooler Hose is an aftermarket Silicon one, seems very sturdy

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They\'re sensor faults not motor faults, there could be something underlying setting them all off (earthing fault or stuffed ECU?)

But uh, good luck I have no idea

What\'s that... afm, knock sensor, TT system, some other stuff (I can\'t be bothered looking it up) - it\'s the usual suspects of subaru faults all coming at once, weeeird

Did you call the car bad names to make it mad at you or something

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Madorej20tt, when you say "bov was leaking and you plumbed it up so it doesn\'t work", Do you mean you have blocked it off? Wouldn\'t that cause an air flow fault/wastegate presure fault/TT system fault and all sorts of poo.When you take your foot off the gas all the boost pressure is being forced somewhere?

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Hmmm only thing I touched that was electrical was putting a jumper across the boost controllers plug to see if it would make code 44 go away, it went away when I started the car but with a little revs it throws the 22 23 24 66 and sometimes 12

:( Kinda wanna sell it already sadly

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  • 2 weeks later...

uh oh maybe I f***ed the ECU? lol I bought a stock boost controller and plugged it in where it was missing and im still getting CEL 44 22 23 24 12 66 in that sequence

I also put a pod filter onto the AFM, when the car doesnt want to build boost it makes a Wiiiizzzzzzzzz noise out the intake... strange as and sounds like im playing an arcade game -_-

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Found the Whizzzz noise is that second BOV thing, Unplugged the Valve part and left the 2 Vacuum lines ontop on it, Now it never fails to produce boost which is awesome to have now, but with the boost controller turned up, it boosts to 9psi then drops back to 0psi and back up to 9 - 0 - 9 - 0 which is really buzzy, and you can feel the boost coming on and off and hear the wastegate in the exhaust opening and closing, this goes away when it gets to twin turbo mode and then it hits its normal boost/fuel/spark cut at 10psi, but at the moment its running 6psi and holding that till twin turbo and 6psi through twin till next gear

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to be blunt sounds like the last thing you want to do with this car is fang it

try another ecu, if youve just bridged the terminals on the boost controller as has been said youve likely nuked something semi terminal, the "cut" at 10psi is way way off normal even ignoring everything else

with the fault codes it has you want to drive gentle cause these motors arent exactly known for hanging together when not running right

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ratshit alright ill give that a go then... it was doing the cut at the start before I even thought of bridging the boost controller, Bought another secondary BOV, the original one was so bad, if you blew on the BOV it would leak air out the vacuum nipple on the top haha got worse with the more pressure, also found the Restrictor Pill for the primary turbo on a wreck which was awesome, is there meant to be a 2nd restrictor pill somewhere??

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