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VOD Legacy twin turbo


Guest swiftbrad

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41 automotive still have the Z/S controllers but were saying that zerosports in japan have stopped producing the harnesses for them...so the only option is splice, unless you can track one down somewhere else or get one 2nd hand...

If anyone's got a Z/S harness for a BH5 leggy and wants to sell it, give me a PM :)

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Guest swiftbrad

hmm I'm buying through 41 automotive, have some wiring diagrams thanks to ReubenH... hoping the auto sparky can sort that as they in Japanese... may be a problem.........find out tomorrow

 suubyduuby said:

41 automotive still have the Z/S controllers but were saying that zerosports in japan have stopped producing the harnesses for them...so the only option is splice, unless you can track one down somewhere else or get one 2nd hand...

If anyone's got a Z/S harness for a BH5 leggy and wants to sell it, give me a PM :)

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 Omegah said:

lol i know, farken horrible, you can hear the exhaust note change too lol

man im glad you guys get that too i thought it was my car getting all f***ed like it takes f***in agges b4 the turb spools back in and if u rev it up you hear both turbs runnin but no boost : /

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Yeah once you have the translated wiring diagram you should be fine....job looks pretty simple BUT you really want to ensure it is reversible so you don't botch the loom if you want to reverse it in the futre...make sure you take it to a good auto sparky as well....

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 Volcanix said:

man im glad you guys get that too i thought it was my car getting all f***ed like it takes f***in agges b4 the turb spools back in and if u rev it up you hear both turbs runnin but no boost : /

yeah, ive found if you off throttle until it comes back on the turbos come back quicker than to keep accelerating until they come back

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Guest swiftbrad

sweet yeah the wiring looks all good. apparently the auto sparky does circuit/drift cars so heres hoping...

 suubyduuby said:

Yeah once you have the translated wiring diagram you should be fine....job looks pretty simple BUT you really want to ensure it is reversible so you don't botch the loom if you want to reverse it in the futre...make sure you take it to a good auto sparky as well....

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Hey there this is what was sent to me when I wired my controller in. It took me an hour real easy to do just take your time. They are selling the things on trademe at the moment I've had mine running for nearly a year and its a great investment.

The top is with numbers is the ECU side and the bottom is the harness side.

Wire 6 7 8 9 you need to bullet and the arrow is male the other one is female.

colour from top down:

yellow/white

yellow

brown/white

brown

blue/white

blue

grey/white

grey

green

white

orange

red

black (BG5 B~C except AT)

(BG5 B~C for AT)

*The black one you just wire into wire 1(BH5).

The ECU plugs from left to right: blue, grey, black(BH5 A~C), other TT models are labelled by numbers on the manual.

They are the plugs on the end of factory harness which plug into the ECU. When you get to the ECU just unplug them and then you'll see what's on diagrams in the manual.

Step 3

1. turn the ignition to on but don't start the engine and check if the controller can be turned on.

2. Check operation while test drive and if there's any CEL.

Check the rev counter and boost guage functioning normal.

Page 10

Hold power button to turn on the controller (white colour = click) (grey colour = hold)

Start from left of the diagram, click mode to choose between rev counter or boost guage.

Hold mode to enter setting mode

1.sequential point: use up and down to set and click POWER to abort or hold POWER to save 2.and then it will enter the returning point mode, use up and down to set, click POWER to abort or hold POWER to save.

Page 13

Recommended setting

Street - Sequential = 4200~4400, Return point 3300~3400 Winding - Sequential = 4600~4800, Return point 3300~3400 Highway - Sequential = 4000, Return point 3400~3600

That's about it, you need to disconnect your battery -ve to make sure you don't short the ECU.

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Guest swiftbrad

hey thanks heaps dude, If you don't mind just a little unclear on rpm values. Mine is stock ECU so around 4K primary starts changing to secondary (or lose torque/exhaust note changes) wondering about preferred settings running the sequentual setup...?... is changeover point OK at 3700rpm or what...? What do you or anyone else suggest is best changeover point and then back to primary??.

Any help greatly appreciated!

 redbeer said:

Hey there this is what was sent to me when I wired my controller in. It took me an hour real easy to do just take your time. They are selling the things on trademe at the moment I've had mine running for nearly a year and its a great investment.

The top is with numbers is the ECU side and the bottom is the harness side.

Wire 6 7 8 9 you need to bullet and the arrow is male the other one is female.

colour from top down:

yellow/white

yellow

brown/white

brown

blue/white

blue

grey/white

grey

green

white

orange

red

black (BG5 B~C except AT)

(BG5 B~C for AT)

*The black one you just wire into wire 1(BH5).

The ECU plugs from left to right: blue, grey, black(BH5 A~C), other TT models are labelled by numbers on the manual.

They are the plugs on the end of factory harness which plug into the ECU. When you get to the ECU just unplug them and then you'll see what's on diagrams in the manual.

Step 3

1. turn the ignition to on but don't start the engine and check if the controller can be turned on.

2. Check operation while test drive and if there's any CEL.

Check the rev counter and boost guage functioning normal.

Page 10

Hold power button to turn on the controller (white colour = click) (grey colour = hold)

Start from left of the diagram, click mode to choose between rev counter or boost guage.

Hold mode to enter setting mode

1.sequential point: use up and down to set and click POWER to abort or hold POWER to save 2.and then it will enter the returning point mode, use up and down to set, click POWER to abort or hold POWER to save.

Page 13

Recommended setting

Street - Sequential = 4200~4400, Return point 3300~3400 Winding - Sequential = 4600~4800, Return point 3300~3400 Highway - Sequential = 4000, Return point 3400~3600

That's about it, you need to disconnect your battery -ve to make sure you don't short the ECU.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest swiftbrad

o.k so i've had the controller installed and set the start point at 4600 and the return point at 3500rpm. At around 3700-4000 I'm getting 9psi and by the time I'm at 5000rpm the psi dropped to like 6 and from there she keeps going down, i think 6000ish rpm is around 4psi.

Is this right? I thought (but obviously dont know) that when the secondary kicked in the boost increased...? Read somewhere here that primary = 9psi, secondary = 16psi

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Guest swiftbrad

yea seemed like it did come on alot more. wondering if that just because of the lag vod before it came in just making it feel like that. Mind you i didnt have a boost guage before, using the zs controller one now

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Guest swiftbrad

really... reads like 6.0, 7.5, 8.6 etc I though that was psi. When idling -.61ish

Weird tho cause the revs on the controller show more than actual, almost twice as much ie car idling and controller reading 150

hope he hasnt botched it.

VOD is like non existent though

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weird it should read like 0.68 bar which is something like 10psi I think and then normally a small decrease then whatever the secondary boost is on yours. VOD will still exist but be much shorter and feel pretty mcuh non existent

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Guest swiftbrad

so yea it sounds like the secondary isnt kicking in at all, that why no vod and psi dropping off hard out maybe. Primary only though the rev range

Gutted

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Guest swiftbrad

2nd or 3rd gear from 3K round to 7K, all the same. With controller turned off however still VOD of course but secondary definately spooling, you can feel it

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