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98 Gtb boost


wrs_guy

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it will run 4 psi(above the change over period) with the primary massively over speeding and the secondary not doing anything

either the exhaust valve to it is seized . the valve to the intercooler is not opening . the pre spool bov stuck open . or the turbo is snapped in half

or vac lines to the to/from the first 3 are broken / not getting the signal

the first 3 can easily be identified / remidied

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The wastegate actuator is about 7 or 8psi - so basically something is wrong enough it can\'t even make minimum boost

Has he actually checked anything yet?

Simple checks I guess would be to check the intercooler valve opens and shuts (the one under the intercooler on drivers side) - and maybe also check if the secondary BOV isn\'t stuck open maybe? (The one which comes off the drivers side turbo)

Or it could be as simple as someone has put vacuum hoses on the wrong way or something - put it into test mode with the dash plugs and check the exhaust valve thing actually moves back & forth, see if there\'s any fault codes logged

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checked that stuff apart from the exhaust valve (alltho actuator moves) one thing i noticed was that the secondry turbo gets a lot hotter than the primary is that the norm? and is the primary ment to be a vf19 and secondry a vf18 not to sure with these tt leggys cheers ethan

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Primary is passenger side, Secondary is staying cold because it\'s doing nothing.

Do 98 Gtb\'s have a BBOD, might be time for a solenoid clean out. Any CEL\'s?

Last resort remove the secondary downpipe and check the turbo out.

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Ok if the exhaust actuator DOES move in test mode then your problem is not the BBOD. The secondary turbo will only get heat into it if you are putting some effort in to get it hot - in normal driving it gets warm but not burny hot - soon as you get some exhaust flow through it then it will get hot

Cleaning it out is literally just unbolting it from the car, and running brake cleen or similar through all the solenoids to make sure one isnt gummed closed/open

My suggestion would be to lock it in parallel - it takes 10 min tops and the guide on how is in the FAQ - and see if it drives and makes boost

if it doesn\'t, then your problem is almost 100% the turbo itself being toast. If it does drive ok (making full boost by about 4-4500) then the problem is solenoid/ecu related

Only reason I suggest to do it that way is getting the inlet pipe off to check the turbo isn\'t farked is a bastard of a job in comparison - the exhaust side may spin freely but that wont tell you if the compressor side is still attached (as mentioned it has been heard of for the thing to seize and snap the shaft)

Put it this way - when you drive it, do you hear the changeover from primary to secondary - when it goes from bubububub to bwaaaaaaaa monotone, then hear it change back again when revs drop?

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