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Has anyone heard of the waic being insulated? I was thinking to layer some expanding foam over it and then cover with some carbon fiber and resin.

Also thinking to get an aluminium radiator and cut it in half, build new tanks and replace the stone and bug munted with a larger and thicker unit.

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I cant see that the heat soak is too big a problem my self. The water is all ways circulating through the radiator. Maybe a pusher fan on the radiator so when the water temps starts to warm it will move air through.

But then I'm not chasing high hp. The car working would be great. Got the ic pump working yesterday, god knows how long it has been hanging there as dead weight.

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You should put it back on, seen temp probe readout with and with out an it seems worthwhile i can post it up if you would like.

In saying that my previous Legacy RSR didn't have one but i had thermo wrapped the down pipe and didn't have any problems.

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I wonder if there is a market for me to get demin water from work and sell it, hmmmm

Not many people can do 20kmh while stationary. Thats where an extra fan on t-stat would work. But i'm to lazy so i wont bother. Still going to build a bigger radiator.

What is the water wetter based on? Is it just sodium? Soap makes water wetter, could just make a box to run a bar of soap in it.

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What does the t-stat on the ic control?

Mine is unplugged because it throws the ecu light on. I checked pin resistace yesterday and i'm sure i got 0 ohm, just checked now and got 34 ohm. Between readings i twisted the plug <45deg in the ic to see if it looks like it comes out. I'm not sure on construction so cant tell if it untwisted a short inside.

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 keltik said:

im fairly sure the sensor is just a water level sensor? Mine was also broken and just threw a light so i unplugged it. The sensor unscrews from the body of the ic after you pop the black rubber cover off

Denso low water sensor, found on 89-91 models this would mean you have a silver cooler right?

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 DRFVDR said:

I know catsoup has his chimney heat sheild/turbo cooling intake

I dont actually. I have taken of because it has cracked off one bolt hole and the other two have started to give.

Will repair or source another one though.

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I was thinking to remove the pcv valve.

I cant see the reason to have it once catch can is installed.

As is set up in jdm cars it can only pull as much vacuum as the restriction in the pipe work to the intake, not to much really.

My thought was to remove the pcv valve and plug the hole. Remove the junction from crank to pcv to common rail and make it from crank to common rail.

The pipe that used to run into intake will be routed through the catch can. Oil free air will then be routed to a venturi valve before the turbo to give a pretty constant vacuum relative to engine load.

The only flaw i can see is the air bypasses for idle and stuff is calibrated to include the air pulled through pcv, which cant be to much.

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So i was cleaning up the leaky breather hoses and pcv and stuff, and broke the nipple for the throttle body water feed.

Can i just blank it off or do i need to take manifold off and repair it?

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The other end on the collector to radiator....

Maybe i should just pull the manifold off and do the parallel fuel rail modd too....

Dang and Blast I was going to have it running in a couple of days.

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