BE/BH replacement inlet hose for TT?

[B4 I was 250T]

Hi Ross, will this work for Rev A? I've done away with factory BOV so would I just blank the BOV recirc off? And where do I get the pipes??

[Rosssub]

 B4 I was 250T said:

Hi Ross, will this work for Rev A? I've done away with factory BOV so would I just blank the BOV recirc off? And where do I get the pipes??

Yip, your rev A is the same as my rev B. Just blank the BOV recirc off. Links to ebay seller for the pipe on the first page:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-liberty-legacy-B4-Rev-E-Twin-turbo-silicone-air-intake-pipe-induct-hose-/331044986222?vxp=mtr

[STiNGR]

 B4 I was 250T said:

Hi Ross, will this work for Rev A? I've done away with factory BOV so would I just blank the BOV recirc off? And where do I get the pipes??

Hijack sorry Ross, had to do it

B4 I was a 250t do you have the factory recirc pipe? I will take it off your hands right now!! Cheers.

[B4 I was 250T]

Hey Stingr, nah I binned it about 2 years ago sorry man Try Richie, he's got 3-4 BE/BHs out there

[STiNGR]

Who's Richie??

[Rosssub]

SAS.

[B4 I was 250T]

You can contact him on here. Are you going Wednesday STINGR? He might attend

[STiNGR]

Oh Richard, yer I was out there the other week dropping some cash off for my motor. Na we had a look around. No luck.

[Divine]

Nice writeup, will look into doing this vs front mount conversion. Undecided at this stage

[Timmah]

 Divine said:

Nice writeup, will look into doing this vs front mount conversion. Undecided at this stage

Go front mount and get Nick to do it too.

[Divine]

Just read that Front mount is not as good as a Top mount with alcohol? Internet articles, much accuracy.

Nick is moving into my house soon so I will be more motivated for events.

[Marky]

Alcohol wut

There is no vs - the two things are complimentary. One helps with the flowyness, the other helps with reducing the heatyness - the front mount has the double bonus of lower temps and reducing the VOD (bit more of a "reserve" of pressurized air I guess)

[Timmah]

Excellent.

[B4 I was 250T]

Funny, never read anything good about going front mount on the TTs. Was always told it made them laggy and unresponsive and not very efficient in around town situations…

Edited December 1, 2014 by B4 I was 250T

[Marky]

That's because everyone gives an opinion on it without bothering to do it and having no input other than what they've read from others saying the same thing.

I measured the temps the stock cooler gives, a V7 STi one, then a front mount. The V7 was a waste of time as an upgrade for around town driving - it did work better on the move but that doesn't help when it takes 500m of driving to do anything. My record with the top mount was seeing 80deg while sitting in crawling traffic - that's just how hot it gets while the car is idling. The stock cooler was no better or worse for heat soak, the larger STi one did seem a bit more capable at keeping cold when it had airflow through it (short version: it's worth doing but still far from ideal)

The front mount gave far more consistent, lower temps 24/7 and I could literally not pick up any difference in spool up time, and it made the dip between turbos less pronounced to boot.

There was literally no downside to it I could genuinely notice, the top mount is the biggest handicap those cars have out of the box and does nothing to help their pinging problems, if the car isn't moving the intercooler becomes a chimney for hot air right off the turbos and it takes half a block just to start cooling it down again. I had some success with mounting a fan underneath to negate this but it's not the ideal fix

And I got an extra 50-100km to a tank of gas (I'm guessing due to no heat soak killing it in traffic and making it pull a heap of timing)

[thermos]

^This.

The turbos on these cars are tiny, so in cyl temps climb quickly under load hence the easy pinging most get under high load low rpm... just not enough flow. Killing the cat and adding a frontmount will do wonders for driveability, not to mention longevity. I'm not quite sure how Subaru reckoned these were decent for Japanese summers.

[GorGasmSpecB]

The FMIC on TT making it laggy is an old wives tale told by people who have no idea what they are talking about. Their general thinking is the large amount of piping takes longer to pressurize, therefore making it laggy. In reality this is just not the case, the turbos can pressurize the system extremely quickly.

There is no comparison between the factory top mount and a front mount, the front mount is that much better.

[Divine]

I will dyno my top mounted BE5D when there is a dyno day next, then put a FMIC in and Dyno it again to see if there really is any lag difference.

I do want to put a FMIC in with a non-turbo bonnet

[Timmah]

 Divine said:

I will dyno my top mounted BE5D when there is a dyno day next, then put a FMIC in and Dyno it again to see if there really is any lag difference.

I do want to put a FMIC in with a non-turbo bonnet

I'll believe this when I see it.

[pixelplay]

 Rosssub said:

I blocked the PCV valve on the throttle body (was leaking anyway/should check yours) and just have a straight crank vent to the new inlet pipe, it\'ll do short term. I had to get a 90 degree 10mm-10mm gates joiner for the PCV hose I missed (from r/r block to intake pipe). Taking primary downpipe off to de-cat I stripped a bolt : and had to remove the starter to get the primary and downpipe out together.

Manifold back in, starter out, primary off:

Primary downpipe de-catted and heat wrapped, only just had enough wrap left:

Inside the AFM end of the OEM pipe is a metal ring I\'ve cut down and put inside the new pipe for clamping, also trimmed 15mm off silicone:

When I first went to fire it up I had no spark cause some twit didn\'t plug the Cam position sensor back in : But then it fired straight away ;D Then tried to redline :-\ Cause I hadn\'t put the accelerator cable on properly :

Just been for a drive, using OEM boost control it\'s gone from 14-16 up to 20-boost cut & limp mode, haven\'t even had it over 4000rpm yet, it boost cut on primary at around 3500rpm. The OEM boost solenoid can\'t keep up anymore so I\'m resetting the ECU and hooking up an HDI EBC but Holy ****e what a difference ;D 8)

Reading this was so funny because I made all the same mistakes the first time around

[pixelplay]

 Rosssub said:

I blocked the PCV valve on the throttle body (was leaking anyway/should check yours) and just have a straight crank vent to the new inlet pipe, it\'ll do short term. I had to get a 90 degree 10mm-10mm gates joiner for the PCV hose I missed (from r/r block to intake pipe). Taking primary downpipe off to de-cat I stripped a bolt : and had to remove the starter to get the primary and downpipe out together.

Manifold back in, starter out, primary off:

Primary downpipe de-catted and heat wrapped, only just had enough wrap left:

Inside the AFM end of the OEM pipe is a metal ring I\'ve cut down and put inside the new pipe for clamping, also trimmed 15mm off silicone:

When I first went to fire it up I had no spark cause some twit didn\'t plug the Cam position sensor back in : But then it fired straight away ;D Then tried to redline :-\ Cause I hadn\'t put the accelerator cable on properly :

Just been for a drive, using OEM boost control it\'s gone from 14-16 up to 20-boost cut & limp mode, haven\'t even had it over 4000rpm yet, it boost cut on primary at around 3500rpm. The OEM boost solenoid can\'t keep up anymore so I\'m resetting the ECU and hooking up an HDI EBC but Holy ****e what a difference ;D 8)

Reading this was so funny because i made all the same mistakes the first time around

[Marky]

 Divine said:

I will dyno my top mounted BE5D when there is a dyno day next, then put a FMIC in and Dyno it again to see if there really is any lag difference.

I do want to put a FMIC in with a non-turbo bonnet

You won't see "lag" on a dyno chart, you're at full throttle from idle so it will spool up as normal