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BE/BH replacement inlet hose for TT?


Rosssub

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You need 2 stock rails with a stock reg on each so 2 right rails. Or an adaptor to remove the stock reg and use an aftermarket fpr. Or 2 left rails without regs and use an aftermarket fpr. I used the last option it means 2 less potential leaks in the system.

You will need 2x brass T\'s one at front of mani one at rear and 1-1.5m of 8mm efi hose and just reuse the clamps off the hard lines.

Stock pump should be fine for your output long as it hasnt deteriorated from old age.

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I need the car back on the road tomorrow, work truck\'s in the shed with gearbox in pieces. I\'m pretty isolated for parts where I am but I\'ll have a hunt around locally for another right rail with yellow\'s, for now but I don\'t like my chances. Then change to left rails when my pump dies and go aftermarket FPR with adapters.

Will any Subaru yellow injector fuel rail fit/same regulator?

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Well that kind of screws you for doing it tonight then.

You need phase 2 rails which should be same as V5/6 or rev a/b/c but never compared them to know for sure. Just buy a bare rail and swap your injectors in when the time comes.

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 Rosssub said:

This is why it\'s all happening, secondary is just as bad, I\'m pretty sure this is causing:

-Harder/takes longer to start

-Low idle on start up

-Boost spikes

-Very poor fuel consumption

-Lack of power

-Pinging/Detonation under load at low revs

-Adding to VOD

-Slower spooling

OfHmDDG.jpg

And here\'s a Dimensions pic Haven\'t found yet but could have been handy:

tk5rzoL.jpg

My B4 and GT-B both had this particular shape, Pretty sure it\'s just how it is as I had the primary turbo off and tried to make it straight but it was molded like this, Good upgrade tho never the less.

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 2000 legacy b4 said:

My B4 and GT-B both had this particular shape, Pretty sure it\'s just how it is as I had the primary turbo off and tried to make it straight but it was molded like this, Good upgrade tho never the less.

Yeah, any TT plastic inlet with 175000+ would be on its way. AFAIK any plastic can only heat/expand and cool/contract so many times before it goes hard and stays expanded. Those stupid corrugations wont help either, but in saying that the corrugations are the only way to get to the rear left manifold bolt. Short of removing the primary... ::)

Edit: When refitting the new silicone pipe/manifold, I\'ll have to leave the centre silicone join loose so I can rotate the primary end up and get a spanner under the silicone pipe onto the R/L manifold bolt.

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Can I block the Crankcase vent that goes the base of the throttle body???

Half an hour away from finishing and I\'ve snapped the main Crank breather that rises from the rear of the block. It had two hoses off it, 1 to new inlet pipe and 1 to the valve at bottom of throttle body. I\'ve made a new breather fitting for the block from an old Secondary relief valve, but now only have the one breather hose to the inlet. So can I get away with just plugging the throttle body crank breather valve? If it\'s a one way valve its stuffed anyway cause it\'s flowing both ways.

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I blocked the PCV valve on the throttle body (was leaking anyway/should check yours) and just have a straight crank vent to the new inlet pipe, it\'ll do short term. I had to get a 90 degree 10mm-10mm gates joiner for the PCV hose I missed (from r/r block to intake pipe). Taking primary downpipe off to de-cat I stripped a bolt ::) and had to remove the starter to get the primary and downpipe out together.

Manifold back in, starter out, primary off:

QoapPUE.jpg

Primary downpipe de-catted and heat wrapped, only just had enough wrap left:

W3FrCV5.jpg

Inside the AFM end of the OEM pipe is a metal ring I\'ve cut down and put inside the new pipe for clamping, also trimmed 15mm off silicone:

KwVtydU.jpg

When I first went to fire it up I had no spark cause some twit didn\'t plug the Cam position sensor back in ::) But then it fired straight away ;D Then tried to redline :-\ Cause I hadn\'t put the accelerator cable on properly ::)

H1L0geI.jpg

Just been for a drive, using OEM boost control it\'s gone from 14-16 up to 20-boost cut & limp mode, haven\'t even had it over 4000rpm yet, it boost cut on primary at around 3500rpm. The OEM boost solenoid can\'t keep up anymore so I\'m resetting the ECU and hooking up an HDI EBC but Holy Shite what a difference :):D ;D 8)

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It also starts much easier, has no pinging at all now, I can hear the primary downpipe thumping away from drivers seat and exhaust tone is much deeper/louder even with stock muffler and the induction noise sounds wicked (bit like an industrial vacuum cleaner under the bonnet).

Edit: CEL went straight out but Logged:

CEL 13-camshaft sensor (no surprises there)

CEL 65-differential pressure sensor

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 lachlan said:

i suggest anyone else doing thise mods to bore the waste gate hole larger on the primary turbo . its literally like 13 mm . and the flap is like 22 . i took it out to like 18 mm . even with no cats it didnt boost cut etc

I think I\'m going to have to do this, I have a major boost spike I can\'t get under control. My HDI EBC is naffed so I\'ve gone back to OEM boost control, coming on the gas slowly it holds stable at 14psi but if I plant foot it spikes to 18-20ish, boost cuts and trips a CEL. I\'ve removed the OEM muffler and put the Apexi on thinking it may be a slight exhaust restriction but it hasn\'t helped. Will boring the waste gate definitely help or should I be tracking down a better EBC as well?

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Nice, thank you. Reading through the GFB Atomic installation pdf it mentions opening the restrictor hole to counter a boost spike, might try some slightly larger restrictor pills in my waste gate line until I get a bleed valve.

http://www.google.co.nz/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCgQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.gfb.com.au%2Ftech%2Finstallation%3Fdownload%3D13%3A3001-Installation-Instructions&ei=Y9uBUvjSDYufiAfWroGgBw&usg=AFQjCNFliyBWxqM5s8788E4OT71nnp5cpQ&bvm=bv.56146854,d.dGI

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So I had a 0.8mm restrictor pill in my turbo/waste gate actuator line, I think all BE/BH TT do. I made a pill with a 1.0mm hole and it worked, boost spike is completely gone and max primary boost is about 11psi. So I think a 0.9mm restrictor would be perfect for my setup and should take me back up to 13-14psi primary with stock boost control. Now to find a 0.9mm restrictor pill from a 2007 STI.

Different pills sizes found here:

http://www.perth-wrx.com/vb/mechanicals/48287-restrictor-pill-what-why-you-need.html

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  • 3 months later...
 Rosssub said:

It also starts much easier, has no pinging at all now, I can hear the primary downpipe thumping away from drivers seat and exhaust tone is much deeper/louder even with stock muffler and the induction noise sounds wicked (bit like an industrial vacuum cleaner under the bonnet).

Edit: CEL went straight out but Logged:

CEL 13-camshaft sensor (no surprises there)

CEL 65-differential pressure sensor

Hey man, thinking of deleting Cat - any issues with CEL for rear O2 on a stock-ish B4? I \'ve heard you can inhibit the CEL with the right software..

B4_685 via Tapatalk

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 B4_685']

[quote name='Rosssub said:

It also starts much easier, has no pinging at all now, I can hear the primary downpipe thumping away from drivers seat and exhaust tone is much deeper/louder even with stock muffler and the induction noise sounds wicked (bit like an industrial vacuum cleaner under the bonnet).

Edit: CEL went straight out but Logged:

CEL 13-camshaft sensor (no surprises there)

CEL 65-differential pressure sensor

/quote]

Hey man, thinking of deleting Cat - any issues with CEL for rear O2 on a stock-ish B4? I \'ve heard you can inhibit the CEL with the right software..

B4_685 via Tapatalk

What Rev BE do you have? Running OEM boost Control? De-catting causes much faster Spool up, so can cause Boost Spikes/Higher Boost Levels/Chatter from increased Gain.

A tuneable ECU can be set to compensate (increased Waste Gate Duty Cycle alterations).

With my Rev B un-tuneable ECU I had to fit an aftermarket boost Controller.

As Lachlan said earlier in this thread-Porting the Primary Waste Gate, also changes the Waste Gate Duty Cycle (more flow when open, so has to open less). So Waste Gate Porting, to match the increased Exhaust flow is another option.

Edit: 01 is Rev D???

Editit (Re Rear 02 Sensor): Yes it could cause issues, I think deleting the Cat would cause a different Gas/Reading at the Rear 02. Maybe tripping a Cat Fault CEL or AFM/Fuel Mix CEL. Not too sure on that one?

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BE Rev-D with HKS boost controller (non sequential). Looking to return it to stock with a 0.8mm restrictor pill as I want to re-use factory boost controller for better tuning results later on ; you alluded to the tuneable ECU: Id agree - much prefer to have ECU- table control of boost/ign timing so you can precisely map rather than just cranking it up with a non sequential/boost tap and watching a piston fly out the side....(not to mention our fuel here in the land of the \'engine failure induced\' long white cloud)

I like the idea of porting WG too - wouldn\'t hurt to smooth some of the casting flaws and tease out the opening...

Did some reading - anyone had any luck with ECU editing - specifically romraider and disabling rear o2 sensor CEL?

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  • 9 months later...

Just did this, Huge improvement! Thanks again for pioneering this for the BH. I have a feeling a lot of people with unresolvable issues with boosting, low power and even idle problems would benefit from this.

Also noted what Ross said about the harness being a little short, since the silicone pipe is a little large in spots beneath the manifold (stealing about an inch of loom) you can cut away some of the loom around the passenger side injector harness and it grants you about 5 extra inches without having to cut or splice wiring. It may not have been needed but I figure it can't hurt since it's a bit of a debacle fitting everything together and to get it all assembled to find your driver's side coil plugs don't reach would be a bloody shame.

Edited by thermos
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