Looking at a 3.0R

[gotasuby]

14l ish

[T.Rev]

Ta..so quite a lot..ie 140kms worth maybe.

[gotasuby]

going easy as yes and that includes unusable of around 4l

[throttlehappy]

 T.Rev said:

Hi..does anyone know the capacity of the tank after the yellow petrol lamp comes on?...roughly. Is it 5 litres?

10L, each notch on the fuel gauge is 10L except for the top one

[jbmurc3.0]

Looking to trade my pretty much stock NZ new legacy premium 3.0r auto for a manual version import....thinking it's going be a better platform for the mods I'm planning....(Raptor intake,headers) then mod rest of exhaust use the stainless intake camber I have ...ECU tune etc ....

[GorGasmSpecB]

Hrm, what do you want at the end of the day?

I found modding my 3.0R 6 speed to be a waste of money.

[jbmurc3.0]

 GorGasmSpecB said:

Hrm, what do you want at the end of the day?

I found modding my 3.0R 6 speed to be a waste of money.

Right you didn't enjoy the sweet sound of the flat 6... induction roar ..or the extra power ??

even better handling etc ....

I do round 15,000km drive per year for work .....90% open road

[GorGasmSpecB]

Yeah, for the 4-5 grand I spent modding it I only got a few % gain. It was a good all round car at the end of the day but I could have saved my cash and it would have been 95% as good. The power gains just aren't there relative to the turbo models.

I had HKS plenum, HKS mufflers, Prova adjustables, whiteline sways, body kit, wheels & tyres, Znoelli disks and pads.

If I had to do it again I would save my pennies and do the following only:

cut out centre section of exhaust & cats and keep factory mufflers/switch to turbo mufflers

tune

pad & tyre upgrade

maybe some second hand wheels and lowering springs

I liked that it sounded pretty good and the engine/6 speed combo was a great match and enjoyable to use and the handling was good as well. But at the end of the day it didn't satisfy my need for speed As I have mentioned before they have the performance of a new age hatchback. 0-100 in a shade under 7 seconds just isn't that quick anymore.

[Andy_Mac]

But looking at that list you have there, probably 80% of the 4-5k went to non engine performance stuff that would have an identical effect if done on a GT. Would expect virtually no increase from just an intake plenum and mufflers.

McDoofs is the best one on here when it comes to not spending a whole heap but still getting a good result on the dyno once tuned.

[GorGasmSpecB]

That is true, but a couple of grand on a GT is going to go a lot further than a couple o grand on a 3.0R. It's all good if it's you want at the end of the day. It just turned out that it wasn't what I was after and I could have been happy as Larry with a standard car and a money in my pocket.

Edited March 31, 2016 by GorGasmSpecB

[McDoof]

I love my 3.0R and got a fair bit of extra power from some exhaust work and a tune.

All I have done is

K&N Panel filter replacement ($60 off Amazon) Airbox resonator removed.

Raptor Headers ($500 delivered plus $200 for the install)

3rd Cat delete. I ended up getting the front section of my exhaust custom made only because the stock one was not in good shape same with the rear resonator (I'm actually looking for a stock midpipe again because it sounds better)

GTB Pre facelift mufflers for looks as they are the same as the stock 3.0R one inside.

I've also done stoptech brake pads on the stock brakes. So it stops. This made me refurbish my wheels because they make so much dust that it made the gutter rashed silver wheels look horrible. ($250 worth of paint and a lot of my time)

I had the front springs reset 25mm lower as the rear's had sagged so its a bit lower than stock but still retains the stock feel. ($200)

Replaced the rear swaybar with a Cusco unit from Japanparts.com ($260 delivered)

The stock power of the car on a dyno is between 120 and 135kw atw. I had mine dyno'd at 163kw. Because it is NA its bloody good to drive. Lots of midrange power and a big fat and flat torque curve.

With just the 3rd cat delete and tune it was already miles away from a stock car as far as performance and drivability goes. The headers liven up the top end a bit. It does 0-100 in around 6 seconds now. Still not mind blowing but good enough for an old fart like me.

Link to a basic info thread in my signature.

Edited March 31, 2016 by McDoof

[GorGasmSpecB]

Yeah it could be that I am just getting old, grumpy and bitter LOL.

[jbmurc3.0]

 McDoof said:

I love my 3.0R and got a fair bit of extra power from some exhaust work and a tune.

All I have done is

K&N Panel filter replacement ($60 off Amazon) Airbox resonator removed.

Raptor Headers ($500 delivered plus $200 for the install)

3rd Cat delete. I ended up getting the front section of my exhaust custom made only because the stock one was not in good shape same with the rear resonator (I'm actually looking for a stock midpipe again because it sounds better)

GTB Pre facelift mufflers for looks as they are the same as the stock 3.0R one inside.

I've also done stoptech brake pads on the stock brakes. So it stops. This made me refurbish my wheels because they make so much dust that it made the gutter rashed silver wheels look horrible. ($250 worth of paint and a lot of my time)

I had the front springs reset 25mm lower as the rear's had sagged so its a bit lower than stock but still retains the stock feel. ($200)

Replaced the rear swaybar with a Cusco unit from Japanparts.com ($260 delivered)

The stock power of the car on a dyno is between 120 and 135kw atw. I had mine dyno'd at 163kw. Because it is NA its bloody good to drive. Lots of midrange power and a big fat and flat torque curve.

With just the 3rd cat delete and tune it was already miles away from a stock car as far as performance and drivability goes. The headers liven up the top end a bit. It does 0-100 in around 6 seconds now. Still not mind blowing but good enough for an old fart like me.

Link to a basic info thread in my signature.

Brilliant stuff so 230kw ATM exactly what I'm after of course buying a LGT would be easier but not my buzz ...as I'm an old fart as well

what's the view on the Xforce...work well with raptor headers (3rd cat delelte)

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1059571205

the sound

Raptor Intake

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.720147068075683.1073741850.151791564911239&type=3

results

http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=22082&sid=59de4418a06b3d99eff77f0539073bfa

Edited March 31, 2016 by jbmurc3.0

[McDoof]

OK, so the X-Force with 3rd cat delete and headers. It sounds average. So be prepared to add another resonator to the mix. Find posts by forum member Daytona on his exhaust system. He spent heaps of time and effort on it. (He just sold his car sadly)

He also had the Raptor intake. These are on a limited production run, so you would have to contact Raptor to check for availability. The same actually goes for headers.

That video is with the Ultrex mufflers. I had those on my car too. They sound awesome, but were a bit loud for me. Sold them to another forum member here.

My advice on exhaust would be

Raptor Headers -> 3rd Cat Delete -> Stock Cat back

Keep your stock cats.

If you find you want it louder from there, then look at some after market mufflers. It could be worth getting a set out of Australia. It looks like Ultrex is about to do a production run of their twin tip setup which should be good. You will be paying silly money for any Japanese stuff like HKS.

http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=13230&start=150

Resonators are very important on these cars. The motor can sound very raspy if you get it wrong.

Most important of all... Get your car tuned. This is where the magic lies. Personally I have been working with Matt McLeod (throttlehappy on clubsub or Kido_tuning on the aussie forums)

He is from what I can tell the master of the EZ30. There is one down side to using him. He is pain to get hold of at times, so you have to be prepared to wait at times. IMO it's worth the wait. Some people get annoyed with him, but if you are aware of this up front then there is nothing to be annoyed about.

[Ajayy]

Do mufflers alone make much of a difference? Any issues behind the legality of cutting out and welding a bit of pipe instead of the third cat?

I'm probably looking to get some aftermarket mufflers and do the cat delete.

[McDoof]

It's unlikely that mufflers alone will give you any gains, mainly because they are not the most restrictive part of the system. If do as planned and do a 3rd cat delete and the mufflers and you get a tune update to suit then yes there are some gains to be made.

As far as legal stuff goes. You should be fine to remove the 3rd cat on any car due to still having another one on each branch.

If you want to go full decat then you can only do that if you car was first registered in NZ before 2010 some time.

Full decat will sound baaaad

[sobanoodle]

I'll soon be listing my exhaust set-up: Japanese aftermarket headers with stock cats retained, 3rd cat replaced with a proper 2.5" Y-section, AdrenalinR resonator, 2.5" stainless mid-Y section.

[Ajayy]

Sorry i meant sound-wise.

Good to know, i want to get a bit more noise out of the thing

[Andy_Mac]

 sobanoodle said:

I'll soon be listing my exhaust set-up: Japanese aftermarket headers with stock cats retained, 3rd cat replaced with a proper 2.5" Y-section, AdrenalinR resonator, 2.5" stainless mid-Y section.

What are you putting on yours? Just going back to stock to quieten it back down?

[tweedo]

Quick hijack and question guys.... I'm wanting to do headers and exhaust plus tune on the 3.0R I will be getting off my olds but need to ask this first... how many kms is too many to be doing all of this at? Their car has 160 on it atm. Is this too high to be worth doing it to?

[Ajayy]

You should be fine, its not like you are strapping a big turbo to it and pushing the limits of the motor.

By doing headers/exhaust/tune your simply refining/yielding what power you are not getting with factory bits, also tuning would help your engine perform better / more efficient

I dont think it matters so much as long as your car has been maintained well and you dont have any underlying problems to begin with.

[McDoof]

Agreed, as long as maintenance has been good and car is not blowing smoke or anything funny like that, you should be good. Mine is at 150k now.

[tweedo]

Thanks for the replies guys...

I have another quick request and that is to get some opinions on these couple of screenshots that I took today from my olds car (the one I may be buying).

First one was this morning (I reset the ECU after taking this as I thought maybe it was just a couple of older stored codes).

The 2nd one is after driving it to work, around town, then home again, all up about 50kms.

It seems to me that the MAF sensor must be shot even though it didn't throw any codes again... but why else would the IAM and a lot of the other readings be so far out of whack?

I have now cleaned the sensor and will have another check after the day tomorrow but any advice before then would be greatly appreciated, as always.

[McDoof]

IAM is never at 1 on a stock tune. Get Matt Mcleod to send you a base tune for that ECU. It will sort out most of those issues. He has pretty good base tunes for the ADM models. PM trottlehappy on the forum

[tweedo]

 McDoof said:

IAM is never at 1 on a stock tune. Get Matt Mcleod to send you a base tune for that ECU. It will sort out most of those issues. He has pretty good base tunes for the ADM models. PM trottlehappy on the forum

Really? I was unaware of that! I was sure mine was always at 1 when I was going through the process with my wagon.

What are your thoughts on the MAF situation after looking at that?

I have messaged Matt but am yet to hear back from him... you did warn of this haha