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CEL code 65 and 66


tydon

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Hi marky I had a bit of a play today I've put the .8 pill in line one replaced my boost gauge but boost is still low so I removed hose 23 like you sugested then went for a drive Im bearly getting 2 psi on primary and only pushing 10psi on secondary I've done the self check and from what I can see and hear all seems to be working any ideas plz

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Still looking like a dead/dying primary turbo. When you welded the ECV shaft was the valve completely shut/in the right position? Have you fixed the leaking ECV gasket?

Check for boost leaks/intake pipe splits, by blocking the intake and pumping 15psi into the BOV hose. Any air leaks will be obvious:

Fuel_pump_ECU_fix_014.jpg

Fuel_pump_ECU_fix_015.jpg

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didnt read thread but one thing i have experienced first hand is the diaphragm in the bov got a hole in it . first the bov and 6 months later the 2ndary relieve valve "bov" . it caused a bit of head scratching for a while .

just suck on the vac line to the bov . block the hose with ur tongue . wait 10 seconds and pull ur tongue off and it should still suck in

god that looks bad now i wrote it down

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Pmsl Lachlan yes it looks bad but I've done the sucky thing on everything and all seems to be ok in test mode I can hear the solenoid a and see the the rods moving on intercooler and secondary wastegate actuator I'm stumped could it be primary boost solenoid even though I've cleaned it out previously

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Unlikely to be the primary boost solenoid, because you only got 2psi with hose 23 off/waste gate shut. When in test mode you can blow through hose #23 and should feel the primary boost solenoid opening and closing.

 Rosssub said:
When you welded the ECV shaft was the valve completely shut/in the right position?

The exhaust control valve (secondary waste gate thingy) needs to be completely shut at idle or with the engine off, with tension on it to hold it shut. Grab the ECV actuator rod with pliers and see if you can slide it upwards, towards the actuator. If you can move the rod at all upwards, then the valve isn't shut properly and needs adjusting tighter. Or it's been welded in the wrong position and can't close fully.

Exhaust control valve actuator rod:

ECV_004.jpg

Exhaust control valve closed:

turbo_008.jpg

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Hi Ross I've rechecked the ecv and can't move it upwards at all.even with the rod disconnected it appears I've got it adjusted all the way shut and on the way to work this morning just on primary I got cel light up good old 66 still do you think it's time to refurb black box could it be a solinoid issue plus when I turn my car on I get like a motor noise from. Inside the boot any idea what that is thanks Gary

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If it was a solenoid issue you would likely get the corresponding CEL. 66 is normally over boost or no rise in boost.

The motor noise in back is either fuel pump, or the exhaust/muffler flap motor if it's a wagon. Inside the rear left interior panel with a cable going to the exhaust flap.

Edit: BH exhaust/muffler flap motor:

Fuel_pump_ECU_fix_005.jpg

Fuel_pump_ECU_fix_012.jpg

Edited by Rosssub
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Nah I think only the wagon has the exhaust flap. Get some pliers onto the primary turbo waste gate actuator rod, push it down to open the waste gate then let it go. To see you can hear the waste gate slap shut.

What is your idle vacuum sitting at? Is it about the same value at 2500rpm or much less?

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The only other thing I can think of right now, is checking the intake air valve butterfly under the TMIC. Make sure the butterfly is still connected to the actuator properly, or may have been removed completely if the cars ever been put into parallel:

IACV_Valve_002.jpg

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Hi Ross had check of the butterfly today it's ok so I've replaced the black box only change no cel light then I swapped out the intercooler I thought I'd fixed it as I started to get boost but then found I'd knock of 10 hose so with this hose disconnected I can rev to 4-4500

And get 10 psi but then drops and doesn't kick into secondary now in really stuffed with 10 connected boost is still crap

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Hi Ross it seems to run smooth, so with hose 10 connected I have bugger all boost on primary but can get up to 10psi on secondary but with hose 10 disconnected I get 10 psi on primary and drops and I don't really get secondary turbo boost but engine feels smooth but flat like secondary's not working

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Pull hose 10 off at the BBOD and blow through the hose, make sure it's not blocked. (EVC duty solenoid recirc)

Then pull hose 10 off at the inline joiner tucked behind the battery, blow through the manifold side of hose to make sure it's not blocked. (primary boost solenoid recirc)

Both hose 10 from BBOD and hose 10 from the primary boost solenoid should meet at a T-piece near the BOV, that might be blocked.

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