CEL code 65 and 66

[Bumpty]

Oh, sorry. I didn't realise the earlier models were different again!

My charcoal canister is in the front right of the car.

Is it a revision B?

[les666]

It must be the difference between ej20h's and ej20R's. Odd that I couldn't find any vac diagrams with that configuration. Did you see my earlier post. Looks like the unknown line is meant to go to the purge control solenoid.

[Bumpty]

The last post with the pic that has the blue vac lines? I did.

Where and what does the purge control solenoid look like, the middle vac line certainly does disappear under somewhere, eh.

[les666]

Looks like this

It should be under or around about by your iacv

[Bumpty]

I found it!

In my boot because it is broken haha

..I'm not too concerned about it now though, as it apparently doesn't effect boost.

What I have now though.

Is I have isolated the boost control in the passenger guard.

It is connected up, and I've looped the inlet to the outlet and I have replaced vac line 10 & 23 so there are no Ts (going to boost control solenoid)

I have now eliminated the boost cut (limp mode)for the majority of the time and receive about 5psi boost at 4k revs ( if it ever goes into limp mode I just put the car in diagnostic mode and it fixes it) Next plan is to open up the bbod to have a look.

I had a go on the weekend but couldn't figure out how to pull it out, can anyone help?

[Rosssub]

2x10mm bolts on the top and 1x10mm bolt through the front, about half way down. Easiest to remove the air filter box lid to get the front one out.

When unbolted, lift it slightly and remove the bottom/hidden vac hose, that goes into guard.

Here's a BBOD clean out write up:

http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.php/topic/11043-code-66-and-boost-issueshow-to-clean-them-out/

Can also clean the primary boost solenoid inside the passenger guard the same way.

[Kwakaturbo]

Hi all in new to site and a newby to subarus I've just brought a 2000 b4 with the dreded code 66 I've cleaned out the box and checked and cleaned all the hoses checked all the pills and it's still runs like **** and I can't erase the code at all any other suggestions plz

[Rosssub]

 Kwakaturbo said:

Hi all in new to site and a newby to subarus I've just brought a 2000 b4 with the dreded code 66 I've cleaned out the box and checked and cleaned all the hoses checked all the pills and it's still runs like **** and I can't erase the code at all any other suggestions plz

What's it doing exactly/symptoms?

[Kwakaturbo]

It feels like primary turbos not working and if I rev it to 6k then I get a quick burst of boost then engine check light comes on its always code 66 and no matter what I do it won't erase

[Rosssub]

That sounds like the primary turbo might be stuffed (seized/snapped shaft).

Maybe try blocking the BOV recirc pipe, just to rule that out.

Edited September 24, 2014 by Rosssub

[Kwakaturbo]

Which pipe is that and how does that eliminate the turbo ??

[Rosssub]

The 1" diameter hose, running from BOV to intake pipe. The BOV might be blowing open under boost, so all boost is going back to intake rather than into manifold.

[Kwakaturbo]

Thanks dude I'll give it a go when I get a change but tonight driving home it's starting to get a little jerky when its cold and it feels like its trying to get some boost and have a little bit of pull to it but obviously not enought does this ring any bells with anyone

[Rosssub]

Light surging when cold could be a dying O2 sensor, Hard to say with a code 66 going on.

Should probably put it into test mode (green and black pugs), ignition on/engine off. Then see if the intake control valve under TMIC is opening/closing properly too.

Intake air control valve:

[Kwakaturbo]

Thanks for that I'll try to give it a go over the weekend

[Kwakaturbo]

Interesting morning I hooked up a boost gauge today only to find it's got 500mm vac but no boost at all where to from here

[Rosssub]

Is the intake valve pictured above opening and closing in test mode? Have you tried blocking off the BOV?

[Kwakaturbo]

Rossub I've done the test mode and yes the valve is working and blocked of the valve as you said still no boost ???

[Rosssub]

I'd guess primary turbo is dead, possibly a broken waste gate shaft. But either way the turbo will have to come out.

[Kwakaturbo]

Bugger I was hopeing you wasn't going to say that lol thanks for your help

[Rosssub]

 Kwakaturbo said:

Bugger I was hopeing you wasn't going to say that lol thanks for your help

No worries, good luck with the swap. Should be able to get a good one for around $130-150.

[Marky]

You can check the turbo is or isnt farked just unbolt the downpipe and intake hose and see if both sides spin freely still

It's not the exhaust valve being stuck open is it? When it's idling does it sound like a subaru or is it really flat

[Kwakaturbo]

Hi marky thanks for advice I've got a camera that I am going to put in the inter cooler pipe to see if I can see the turbo blades and I'm not sure about the exhaust valve the car starts fine and idles fine and does have a little pull when driving but no boost

[Kwakaturbo]

Hi guys had a play today removed the intercollegiate and put small camera down blow of pipe into turbo it seem front turbo blade seems to turn ok can't check for play and from what I can tell waist gate appears to be moving but I haven't removed front pipe just from these finding can I still assume turbo goosed or do I look else where

[Marky]

Tough one without confirming its actually dead, the turbos themselves are cheap enough but be a shame to waste the $$ if it isn't the problem. If you can do without the car for a short while just remove it and find out, you can pop the turbo core out easily enough without having to crack the up-pipe bolts (saves having to get all new gaskets etc)

Maybe get someone who knows them to go for a quick drive or have a quick look for you?

They behave vaguely like this when the exhaust valve is open but rest of the system trying to behave as normal - just to rule it out, after a quick drive (just normal driving) does the secondary turbo get like "turbo hot" or just engine bay hot? The exhaust valve itself you can check the operation pretty easily - when it's in test mode it should move in and out and you'll see it close.

The other side is if it has been adjusted way too far out, it is a threaded rod and you can wind it right out to make the exhaust half feed into the second turbo 24/7. What I meant by the sound is that when it is bleeding through, the exhaust note sounds really flat, just like a slightly odd idle, whereas the normal legacy idle is the boobboobboob subaru noise

Chances are it is a dud turbo but given how temperamental these things are it's worth ruling out the problem isn't something completely different (and possibly much simpler to fix)