Jump to content
Please check your junk folder for registration emails ×
  • Current Donation Goals

    • Raised $0.00

Rosssub's Single Turbo Conversion.


Rosssub

Recommended Posts

After 4 months of sourcing parts I'm almost ready to start assembling. With 285 photo's already uploaded to my conversion photo album, this thread is well overdue.

 

My car is a 2000 BH5B TT Legacy GTB, that used to look like this:

Earth_tidy_up_002.jpg

 

At 214,000 the original engine was removed. After I snapped 2 valves and put a hole in a piston:

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?41108-Chasing-a-new-water-leak-after-coolant-change-flush

 

Then the EJ208 short block was disassembled:

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?42022-Stripping-EJ208-Short-Block-Separation

 

My original TT intake manifold stripped and compared to other options:

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?41940-BH5B-TT-Intake-Manifold-stripped-Compared-to-V6-STI

 

Manifold prepped then painted VHT aluminium (vht 207):

Aluminum_Paint_01_004.jpg

 

Aluminum_Paint_02_001_1.jpg

 

Every part being reused has been painted or polished:

polish_004.jpg

 

Original fuel lines and injectors polished and reinstalled:

fuel_lines_in_001.jpg

 

I've stripped and rebuilt my TT BBOD, ready for conversion:

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?42159-BBOD-Converted-to-Version-6-Link-G4-Solenoid-Control-Box

 

Brought a new version 5-6 M&H silicone intake pipe, seen here above my TT original:

New_Intake_004.jpg

 

Brought a second hand version 7 STI header tank:

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?42682-Header-Tank-Internal-Corrosion-Version-7-STI

 

Conversion vac lines ready, new header tank, intake pipe and original TT TB installed:

fuel_lines_in_003.jpg

 

The original TT turbo to TMIC hard pipes removed and a STI Y-Pipe installed:

TMIC_Conversion_001.jpg

 

TMIC_Conversion_006.jpg

 

Y-Pipe, block coolant crossover pipe and TMIC painted ready to go:

Aluminum_Paint_02_001_2.jpg

 

All put together looking pretty:

Original_manifold_painted_001.jpg

 

Original TT starter motor and alternator serviced, painted/polished:

starter_alternator_001.jpg

 

I had 2 sets of rocker covers, so polished one set:

Rocker_002.jpg

 

Then painted the others VHT wrinkle red SP204:

paint_03_002.jpg

 

I've brought a second hand, version 8 STI twin scroll VF36 turbo, (done 30,000km), with matching Spec C tuned length headers and down pipe:

Version_8_VF36_STI_Spec_C_003.jpg

 

Version_8_VF36_STI_Spec_C_004.jpg

 

Here's the new VF36, beside my original VF27 secondary turbo:

Turbo_010.jpg

 

Turbo_007.jpg

 

Needing a replacement engine I started looking at options, ending up with this thread:

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?41847-EJ205-EJ207-EJ208-Short-Block-Identification

 

I went for a rebuilt version 7 STI EJ207 short block, forged internals and a semi closed deck block:

New_Short_Block_arrival_007.jpg

 

The new EJ207 semi closed deck beside my original BH5B open deck:

New_Short_Block_arrival_020.jpg

 

I was expecting version 7 STI molybdenum pistons, but due to a part number mix up the block arrived with version 1-2 cast alloy dog bone pistons. These have been removed:

Pistons_out_004.jpg

 

Then exchanged for a new set of these:

STA p/n PS209EJ20T .25R - Semi Forged Eutectic, 17cc dish:

STA_Semi_Forged_Eutectic_001.jpg

 

Next to the Version 1-2 cast dogbones that were originally in the short block:

STA_Semi_Forged_Eutectic_004.jpg

 

New semi forged eutectic pistons going in:

Semi_forged_pistons_in_001.jpg

 

New semi forged eutectic pistons installed:

Semi_forged_pistons_in_005.jpg

 

Got a twin scroll sump and oil pickup with the short block, seen here with my original:

New_Short_Block_arrival_018.jpg

 

The short block polished up and ready to go.

polished_block_and_heads_005.jpg

 

I've cleaned and reinstalled my original oil cooler, a new GMB water pump and OEM 10mm oil pump. I went with the 10mm pump after this thread:

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?42282-Oil-Pump-options-10mm-11mm-12mm

 

I've brought a second hand set of version 6 STI heads, they have been machined, pressure tested and of course polished ready to fit:

polished_block_and_heads_002.jpg

 

Thread comparing the new version 6 heads with my original TT heads:

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?42216-Heads

 

Version 6 STI head combustion chamber measured after machining, to 48.8cc:

Head_CC_measure_005.jpg

 

I'm using a version 6 STI J2 ECU for the initial conversion, (engine break in). Then after running the new short block in, I'm changing to a Link G3 (running Link G4 firmware):

Link_002.jpg

 

At the same time I will install a version 7 STI TMIC, baby blue 440cc top feed injectors (eventually changing to Pink 565cc) and a version 7 STI clutch master cylinder. Still need a few bits like Knock light and a few sensors, gauges etc:

GDB_brake_booster_001.jpgBaby_blues_in_V7_STI_001.jpgTMIC_Mount_002.jpgV6_V7_006.jpg

 

That's where I'm at so far, currently waiting for some head gaskets to arrive to double check quench and compression measurements, before bolting the heads on and measuring valve clearances.

:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got the new head gaskets today, cameras playing up but they are OEM p/n 11044AA463. They are version 1/4 STI MLS gaskets.

I've read plenty of threads claiming these HG to be 1.6mm thick (1.58mm compressed), which would of set my compression ration at 7.842:1, a bit lower than I want. But read a few threads stating them to be 1.37mm compressed which would set me at 7.979:1. Took the gamble and they are spot on 1.385mm thick, so will be 1.37mm crushed. So:

92.25mm bore

75mm stroke

48.8cc combustion chamber (version 6 STI heads/machined)

17cc piston dish

-0.5mm clearance to deck/CTD (piston head above block 0.5mm at TDC)

93.3mm HG bore diameter

1.37mm HG thickness crushed

CR - 7.979:1, with a 0.87mm quench.

Perfection. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got the version 7 block coolant crossover pipe I was after, seen here below the version 5/6 STI:

V6_V7_001.jpg

 

Also a difference in the coolant hard line that sits above it (header tank to water pump). The GDA/GDB hard line is taller to clear the TGV on the version 7 intake manifold:

V6_V7_002.jpg

 

Header tank bottom port/bottom hose differences:

V6_V7_003.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One last look before the heads go on:

First_head_on_001.jpg

 

Left bank head gasket on:

First_head_on_003.jpg

 

Left head in place:

First_head_on_004.jpg

 

Head bolts in:

First_head_on_005.jpg

 

Valve shims and lifters in:

second_head_installed_001.jpg

 

Cams in:

second_head_installed_002.jpg

 

Cam keepers in:

second_head_installed_003.jpg

 

Left bank valve cover on:

second_head_installed_005.jpg

 

second_head_installed_006.jpg

 

Right bank head installed:

second_head_installed_009.jpg

 

Right bank cams in and valve cover on:

second_head_installed_013.jpg

 

:)

second_head_installed_014.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mine currently have a cool rust droplet effect, right in front of the overflow tank... matches the same pattern on the battery. I'm not sure but Plasti-dip would probably hold to the cam covers better than ordinary paint.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice, sounds like she's dying for a good steam clean. I haven't tried plasti dip yet, I think I'll leave the covers black though.

 

Block water pipes installed:

Cambelt_water_pipes_on_003.jpg

 

Cam seals, cam tensioner bracket and rear cam covers on:

Cambelt_water_pipes_on_004.jpg

 

Cam belt installed:

Cambelt_water_pipes_on_006.jpg

 

Front cam covers on:

Cambelt_water_pipes_on_007.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers guys. The wrinkle red looks much better in person.

Yeah, dipstick aye. :) I thought the cam covers were going to have to come off again when I realised I'd missed it. Went in easy without back tracking though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is my original TT secondary turbo coolant return pipe, going into the head. I've bent it slightly because the up pipe was just touching it, it's also a too short and only 10mm pipe:

Turbo_coolant_oil_lines_001.jpg

 

The VF36 coolant return line is 12mm, this is a GDA 12mm coolant return line fitted, instead:

Turbo_coolant_oil_lines_001a.jpg

 

10mm TT secondary turbo coolant return, above the WRX 12mm, both use the same banjo bolt:

Turbo_coolant_oil_lines_002.jpg

 

The Turbo oil return line couldn't be any easier:

Turbo_coolant_oil_lines_00_A.jpg

 

I've reshaped my original VF27 secondary turbo oil feed line to fit the VF36. The VF36 is a roller bearing turbo so I've reused my original VF27 oil feed banjo bolts with 1mm restrictors:

Turbo_coolant_oil_lines_002a.jpg

 

Banjo bolt info:

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?42557-Banjo-Bolt-Part-Numers

 

I also stole the GDA rubber turbo coolant return hose, with alloy flexi heat cover:

Turbo_coolant_oil_lines_005.jpg

 

Turbo lines sorted:

Turbo_coolant_oil_lines_007.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 ADIKT said:
Sooooo did you use a twin scroll dip stick? :confused:

Looking sooo good Ross

Thanks Man. :) Nope, I'm pretty sure the twin scroll dip stick is a few millimetres shorter. I was going to post in the dumb question thread asking someone to measure theirs, then just trim mine down and remark it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recent Status Updates

    • MrSg9Sti04

      Afternoon team,
      im new to the group first time posting. Im hoping some body can help me get my launch control all dialled in on my link g4x. Ive had the computer and car all tuned from chris at prestige awesome knowlegable guy super happy with the results but now im wanting to get my launch/anti lag all dialled in. Ive been reading multiple different forums etc all with different conflicking information which has made me nervious with what do i listen to this or that if you get what i mean. Now ive started to make myself familiar with my PClink software etc the past few weeks and im eager to learn how to do minor setups or tweaks etc so im not relieing on my tuner so much and obviously saving myself abit hurt in the back pocket. 
      Now back to the question at hand.... Im wondering if theres and one who could please share there knowledge and wisdom with setting all my values, timing, fuel etc when i have launch control armed and engaged, or even a launch tune file they can possibly send me to load onto my tune. Ive figured out the setup of my digital inputs turning launch control on etc and its obvisously on its pre set factory settings. It engages but doesnt sound the greatest or as angry as it should i feel. Hence reaching out to you good buggers. 
       
      Cheers in advance for any info and help yous maybe able to give me.
       
      Cheers Shaun
      · 0 replies
    • Joker  »  gotasuby

      updated your DP's too : hope that's ok!
      · 0 replies
    • Joker  »  SAS

      Updated your DP's to reflect your business page  
      · 0 replies
    • Joker  »  Nachoooo

      Updated your Avatar : couldnt help myself  cheers!
      · 0 replies
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    40.9k
    Total Topics
    573.5k
    Total Posts
×
×
  • Create New...