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Rosssub's Single Turbo Conversion.


Rosssub

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It's a good thing my front door isn't any smaller:

Engine_going_back_in_003.jpg

 

Engine transferred to a crane, ready to go:

Engine_going_back_in_005.jpg

 

Flywheel and clutch on, I've reused my original clutch plate and pressure plate (plenty of meat), but fitted a new release bearing. ($96 BNT)

Engine_going_back_in_010.jpg

 

Engine bay ready to go, my GDB clutch cylinder line bung was leaking and I couldn't find anything better. So the original BH clutch master cylinder is back in for now:

Engine_going_back_in_011.jpg

 

Lining her up:

Engine_going_back_in_013.jpg

 

Using a guide rope as an extra set of hands:

Engine_going_back_in_016.jpg

 

I got this far away and then pulled the VF36 off again, only just realising the exhaust housing doesn't clear the gearbox:

Engine_going_back_in_019.jpg

 

Finally, 5 months later I have an engine in my car again:

Engine_going_back_in_020.jpg

 

Clutch fork pin cleaned, greased and reinstalled:

Engine_going_back_in_022.jpg

 

Starter motor in, drivers side heater hose rerouted to the new version 7 hard line:

Engine_going_back_in_024.jpg

 

Air con, power steering and alternator back in:

Engine_going_back_in_025.jpg

 

All wiring and hoses sorted, radiator and fans back in. Turbo back on:

Engine_going_back_in_030.jpg

 

The new twin scroll dipstick has arrived, picking it up tomorrow.

 

I'm crossing my fingers that the down pipe is a perfect fit and doesn't need modifying, then I should be firing up tomorrow. :)

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WOW IT'S NEARLY DONE! Come on, startup video with no 'Zaust, you know you want to.... :D That's how to really free flow :P

So jelly; My new (V7 STi) engine wont be here til next monday. So; I'm just waiting. This has come together so brilliantly.

Gives me shivers.

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Unfortunately the Spec C down pipe isn't quite a straight fit. It hits the gear box cross member, by about 30mm. The rear flange lined up pretty good, just about 50mm short:

Engine_in_003.jpg

 

I removed the rear heat shields and did some bending, then adjusted the rear flange angle by about 15'. Then heat wrapped the bare pipe:

Engine_in_012.jpg

 

New down pipe in, the original BH O2 sensor wire is just long enough to reach the BH loom plug near the battery. Assuming my BH O2 sensor will cook in it's new position, post turbo not header. I also fitted a black sheath to the white O2 wire:

Engine_in_014.jpg

 

The new view from underneath:

Engine_in_017.jpg

 

I've then taken this BE/BH bracket off the air con pump:

Engine_in_020.jpg

 

Moved the black plastic alternator loom clip, into one of the bracket bolt holes on the air con pump. Then marked the bracket ready for cutting:

Engine_in_022.jpg

 

I then bolted the smaller piece of bracket to my BH power steering pump:

Engine_in_023.jpg

 

Then fitted the new version 7 STI engine cover. Finished product:

f_New_engine_finished_006.jpg

 

I've had the plugs out the whole time, so I could turn it over with no compression. On first turning it over I got CEL crank sensor and idle air control valve.

 

I was wrong on the ECU wiring, I used the immobilizer option (sti fuel pump relay 134-1 and cam/crank swapped). So I returned my BH cam and crank to their original places, then swapped the fuel pump relay wire to 134-1. Then cleaned out the IACV, CEL's gone:

f_New_engine_finished_001.jpg

 

The new twin scroll dipstick is much too short, it would take about 10 litres to reach the full mark. So I'm guessing the P/N 11140AA150 is the EJ257? Sorry if any one's brought one from my listed numbers (ADIKT). I need to do some more digging, but it looks like It might be 11140AA120 for the EJ20 T/S.

 

I've filled 4.7 litres and crossed my fingers, I'll take note of the level tomorrow after a few kms and remark my original dipstick. Then order 11140AA120 and cross my fingers again, (pics to come, driving to do).

 

After about a full minute and a half of total cranking, (10sec on-5sec off). I still had the oil light on. So I fitted the plugs and went for gold. Then with everything ready to fire, the fuel pump was silent.

I had no power at ECU fuel pump pin 1 or pin 21 on plug 134? I can't find a fuel pump pin anywhere yet? I'll wait till someone visits and get them to flick the ignition on and off while I try pins.

 

So I've wired the fuel pump power to the ECU power source, so the pump turns on with ignition.

Then started it... It went first pop, as though the engine had never changed. The oil light went off in one second. Perfect smooth cold idle instantly, I then topped up the water while playing with the accelerator. Then hit the road, very light on the gas, 0psi boost. Working my way up and down through the gears, staying under 3750. I only had a quarter of a tank, so kept it running at BP while the attendant filled her up.

 

It drives/runs absolutely perfectly, a little smoke at first from my oily hands on the exhaust. But not a single drip, loose hose or leak of any kind. I can already tell it's a strong motor. The turbo want to jump into boost with any touch on the gas. Much faster than my primary VF26 ever did and I'm trying to stay off it. :)

 

114.6km down so far 886.4km to go. :) Wicked.

f_New_engine_finished_007.jpg

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Nice write up Ross thanks for taking the time to share!

How do you find the M&H intake? (how many nomax layer?)Last one i got(ages ago) i had to biff it out because it was very poor quality and soft, so much so when used with a factory air filter it would have collapsed under the slightest bit of vac.

Which is why i found a reputable supplier and started sell them.

I see quite abit of the m&h stuff around atm and wondering about quality. cheers

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Thanks guys, I couldn't be any happier with the way it's turned out. One happy chappy :)

312km done so far, one cold start. 2 starts total.

My version 5/6 M&H pipe is pretty solid too, I would buy another one for sure. Thinking about changing to the version 7 M&H pipe when the STI manifold/TMIC go in.

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 Rosssub said:
Thanks guys, I couldn't be any happier with the way it's turned out. One happy chappy :)

312km done so far, one cold start. 2 starts total.

My version 5/6 M&H pipe is pretty solid too, I would buy another one for sure. Thinking about changing to the version 7 M&H pipe when the STI manifold/TMIC go in.

Hmm you shouldn't need to.. i run a v7 intake under my v4 mani.. just make it work lol.

The M&H label makes it look abit cheap imo what do you think?

What other labels do you think would appeal if you think the same.. ?sti, samco? spt? or even clubsub or maybe no label?

Been thinking about getting more intakes and hose kits in..

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 Rosssub said:
Yeah the M&H label definitely stands out, I think plane black would be better. But if some STI or Clubsub hoses came up I'd be buying a set for sure. :)

Cool thanks, Sorry for jumping on your thread a bit o.t, but Appreciate your opinion there,

I will make some inquires and get stock back soon as i can do better price than M&H ones same sort of quality by the looks.

Edited by hijacka
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 Rosssub said:
Yeah the M&H label definitely stands out, I think plane black would be better. But if some STI or Clubsub hoses came up I'd be buying a set for sure. :)

Black electrical tape works wonders for hiding labels and even making blue silicone disappear :)

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I like the black tape idea, just had a proper look and the label is pretty well hidden under the engine cover. Thanks Hijacka, keen to see what you can get. I quite like the M&H style pipe with no vac ports or breather fittings, be perfect for the link G4 with engine breathers/BOV venting. :)

Proud moment, first oil change at 498kms. I used cheap Valvoline semi synthetic for the first 500km, Castrol edge was on special today so I figured why not:

500km_oil_change_001.jpg

Another 500km to go, still on WGSP (7psi) but it hasn't seen over 3-4psi yet. Still resisting the urge. :)

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Nice work man, mine is running better now that i have replaced the intake pipe (old wrx one had a split).

let me know when you are in chch and we'll have to meet up, I'd love to see your fine work in person.

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I got my first CEL this evening on the open road, it came on during deceleration. Stayed on for about 2 minutes then went out again.

 

CEL 45 - Atmospheric pressure sensor/Absolute pressure change solenoid.

 

There is no ECU pin for an atmospheric pressure sensor on either BH/V6 ECU pin out. After some reading it looks like the BH/V5-6 Subaru MAP sensor is also an atmospheric pressure sensor. The ECU can switch to read atmospheric pressure during deceleration.

 

So I have an atmospheric pressure sensor/MAP sensor connected and working, the problem is I'm missing the Absolute pressure change solenoid or pressure sources switching solenoid. During my BBOD experiments I couldn't work out what the solenoid on the MAP sensor feed hose was inside the BBOD. With an LED connected I saw it switching briefly on deceleration. Which cuts manifold boost flow to the MAP sensor, so it can read the atmospheric pressure.

 

The switching solenoid has a different name on each ECU pinout, but still the same pin on both ECU's.

 

STI/WRX V5/6 - pressure sources change over solenoid - ECU pin 26/134

BE/BH A/B/C - absolute pressure change solenoid - ECU pin 24/136

 

So I need to refit my pressure change solenoid. Which is controlled by the 2 yellow wires at the BBDO loom plug. Solenoid seen here:

 

MAP sensor feed solenoid/absolute pressure change solenoid/pressure sources switching solenoid:

BBOD_Tests_011.jpg

 

This is the old contents of my BBOD. I've cut all TT solenoids off, leaving tails in case the wiring is needed later and will look tidier. I left the pressure sources switching solenoid wired up so I can just plug it back in and reconnect the vac hoses (pre MAP to cut manifold feed):

Pressure_sources_switching_solenoid_valv

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Nah AFAIK the ECU uses the atmospheric pressure data to adjust timing/fuelling etc. So the switching solenoid is needed to cut boost feed to MAP sensor. It's back in now, just sorting the hoses out. :)

 

Pressure switching solenoid back in, reconnected to MAP. I have my boost gauge hose T'd off the manifold feed to the pressure switching solenoid. The 3 hoses just T'd together are unused vac feeds from manifold, linked together going nowhere. Spare ports for when the link goes in.

Pressure_switch_solenoid_back_in_002.jpg

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1000km engine break in oil change this evening, trying out some Fuchs 5w30 synthetic from BNT:

1003km_service_001.jpg

 

I ordered an EJ20 twin scroll dipstick today, for some strange reason it's $30 dearer.

 

11144AA150 twin scroll dipstick EJ255/EJ257 $29+gst

11144AA120 twin scroll dipstick EJ207 $58+gst

 

While at Subaru I spoke with one of the gents about the OEM twin scroll sump volume/dipstick etc, I was informed that the twin scroll sump only holds 4.2L (standard 4.5/4.7L). So I've filled 4.3L this time and was a bit overfull before. :)

 

I've brought a PTP turbo blanket from ebay, should be here in a week. Currently I have no heat shields at all on the VF36, so thinking I'll leave it on WGSP until the blanket arrives. Will also be a shortly longer break in which can't be a bad thing.

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