Jump to content
Please check your junk folder for registration emails ×
  • Current Donation Goals

    • Raised $0.00

Rosssub's Single Turbo Conversion.


Rosssub

Recommended Posts

I'm thinking a slightly smaller pill, or move it closer to the turbo outlet (currently in BBOD end of hose). Just to try and bring the gain up slightly, but not too worried really as the Link will sort all of that. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Rosssub said:
First trial drive with the new EBC, turned up full it would only just get to 10psi. So I came back home a fitted a 0.8mm restrictor pill in, between the turbo and boost solenoid.

A lot better, completely stable, finely adjustable boost. Currently running 1.1bar/16psi, with the HDI dial set just over half way.

I think the HDI controller has a pre-set gain level, or I need to try some different pill/hose arrangements out. Initial spool seems slower now, when I was expecting the opposite.

But either way, I'm grinning from ear to ear. :)

Ahhh to be rid of that VOD though.. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quote

Ahhh to be rid of that VOD though.. :D

No more 4000rpm avoided gear changes. :)

 

Impeccably timed, the PTP blanket from ebay arrived this morning. TMIC and strut brace off:

PTP_blanket_install_001.jpg

 

I've cut the length of wire supplied in half then made 2 straight loops and feed them under the turbo, from the drivers side and hooked them over the blanket lugs:

PTP_blanket_install_007.jpg

 

Then feed the blanket between the turbo and gearbox, as I gently pulled on the wires from the drivers side:

PTP_blanket_install_009.jpg

 

All tied off:

PTP_blanket_install_011.jpg

 

TMIC and strut brace back in:

PTP_blanket_install_015.jpg

 

Finished product:

PTP_blanket_install_012.jpg

 

:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice; looking sleek!

Hey I've run in to some trouble with clearances: the AVCS solenoid hits the injectors; you wouldn't happen to have spare spacers you'd sell for cheap? my head is being done in more and more, or do you reckon it'd be cheaper to get spacers made out of the spare BH manifold I have?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nah sorry man, only the set fitted. How much spacing do you need to clear the solenoid? Mine are 4mm, pretty sure you can get 6mm and 8mm. Could also run double OEM gaskets top and bottom.

Looking at pics of the AVCS solenoid, would the motor section come off? Giving a bit more room.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nah they're a single unit. Looking round on the overseas forums, seems 19mm is the magic number for clearing the aavcs solenoids. though i was thinking of turning the injector around by 180° and getting a bit of tube to move the fpr around the corner as it slightly hits that (with split fuel rail) only played on passenger side atm, working weekends leaves little playtime.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah you can do the same on the TT, identical fuel line setups. I've got 2 drivers side OEM fuel rails here, with the factory regulator on each.

So just a brass T on the incoming fuel line (split to feed both rails). Then another brass T on the return fuel line, (both regulators back to return). Saves buying an aftermarket regulator and bare drivers side fuel rails can be found resonably cheap.

I'm still running my OEM BHB fuel pump, planning to upgrade to a 255lph Deatschwerks pump sometime. (quieter than the Walbro).

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=755511943

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I fitted the original BH lower engine cover yesterday, then found a fire hazard today. This is the right bank spec c header touching the under cover (just melted), also the up-pipe heat shield and front-pipe shield was touching:

Uner_cover_chop_002.jpg

 

BH under cover, before and after. (4" grinder/cutoff wheel):

Uner_cover_chop_003.jpg

 

Uner_cover_chop_004.jpg

 

Now 10mm minimum clearance all round:

Uner_cover_chop_007.jpg

 

Also today my original Alt/PS belt decided it wanted to only be a 4 rib belt, so I've replaced them both. The OEM ALT/PS belt 5PK875 was too tight and always hard to get on/off. The OEM AC belt 4PK900 was too loose and at full adjustment to tighten it. So I've changed both sizes for better fitment.

 

Before- 5PK875 and 4PK900:

Dayco_belt_change_002.jpg

 

:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some more TT spare parts came out this afternoon, this pic is looking sideways into the F/L guard. Showing the primary boost solenoid and BBOD vac storage tank, both redundant now:

Vac_tank_out_001.jpg

 

This is the vac tank pipe running across the rear of the BH front bumper, from vac tank to BBOD:

Vac_tank_out_004.jpg

 

All removed:

Vac_tank_out_005.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 94 Leone said:
I was thinking of hooking up the vacuum storage tank to the brake booster; so that you've still got vacuum for brakes even when the car is off.

on another note; damn that is clean. mine is all caked in mud...

I wonder how long the stored vac would last running the brakes, with engine off. Wouldn't get used that much though, maybe towing? Yeah the under guards are in pretty good nick, keeps everything tidy. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 iphillipnz said:
Found it; http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?23390-Cheap-fix-for-dead-o2-sensors

Too tired to think properly last night (too many graveyard shifts). Thought you might have the number handy, haha. Thanks anyways.

That looks like the 4 wire sensor, for rev d/e? Your rev C should be the 3 wire. Giving that your doing the V5/6 STI conversion soon, just buy the V5/6 3 wire now and use that. May have to extend the wiring about 150mm.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recent Status Updates

    • MrSg9Sti04

      Afternoon team,
      im new to the group first time posting. Im hoping some body can help me get my launch control all dialled in on my link g4x. Ive had the computer and car all tuned from chris at prestige awesome knowlegable guy super happy with the results but now im wanting to get my launch/anti lag all dialled in. Ive been reading multiple different forums etc all with different conflicking information which has made me nervious with what do i listen to this or that if you get what i mean. Now ive started to make myself familiar with my PClink software etc the past few weeks and im eager to learn how to do minor setups or tweaks etc so im not relieing on my tuner so much and obviously saving myself abit hurt in the back pocket. 
      Now back to the question at hand.... Im wondering if theres and one who could please share there knowledge and wisdom with setting all my values, timing, fuel etc when i have launch control armed and engaged, or even a launch tune file they can possibly send me to load onto my tune. Ive figured out the setup of my digital inputs turning launch control on etc and its obvisously on its pre set factory settings. It engages but doesnt sound the greatest or as angry as it should i feel. Hence reaching out to you good buggers. 
       
      Cheers in advance for any info and help yous maybe able to give me.
       
      Cheers Shaun
      · 0 replies
    • Joker  »  gotasuby

      updated your DP's too : hope that's ok!
      · 0 replies
    • Joker  »  SAS

      Updated your DP's to reflect your business page  
      · 0 replies
    • Joker  »  Nachoooo

      Updated your Avatar : couldnt help myself  cheers!
      · 0 replies
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    40.9k
    Total Topics
    573.5k
    Total Posts
×
×
  • Create New...