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Zerosports Sequential Boost Controller Issue


steve118

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Probably beside the point now since it seems pretty obvious something is wrong with the controller but 4000 is pretty low. That'll make the VOD way worse than it is as stock. Not sure what the return point is, didn't even know it had one, switch back from twin to single when off throttle??

I always had mine set to around 5000. Keeps you out of the vod more often when not needing the full grunt, and if you really want the kick the VOD much smaller.

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 Andy_Mac said:
Probably beside the point now since it seems pretty obvious something is wrong with the controller but 4000 is pretty low. That'll make the VOD way worse than it is as stock. Not sure what the return point is, didn't even know it had one, switch back from twin to single when off throttle??

I always had mine set to around 5000. Keeps you out of the vod more often when not needing the full grunt, and if you really want the kick the VOD much smaller.

i only had it at those settings for testing purposes. finding someone who has one installed here in auckland is proving to be quite difficult.

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Maybe set it to change over at 4500 or 5000 and see what happens. Is the check engine on all the time whether the controller is on or off? I would go back and check your wiring. Make sure that the striped wires go to the ecu and that the plain coloured wires go the other way. If you need here is a partially translated manual I put together with some help from a dude on uklegacy.com. https://www.dropbox.com/s/0uzrco2j7wl55dr/Zerosports%20Controller.pdf

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Since he has it working fine with the controller off wouldn't you say the wiring is fine since it wouldn't work even with the controller off if it was wired wrong? For the ones it splits atleast, ones that are tee'd into could be wrong and cause issues with the controller on but be fine with it off.

Its only once the controller starts trying to change things that it goes wrong.

Though code 62 and 65 would indicate something wrong somewhere with the grey and yellow wires.

Could always take the covers off the controller and try look for anything blown/cracked on the circuit board

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 Andy_Mac said:
Since he has it working fine with the controller off wouldn't you say the wiring is fine since it wouldn't work even with the controller off if it was wired wrong? For the ones it splits atleast, ones that are tee'd into could be wrong and cause issues with the controller on but be fine with it off.

Its only once the controller starts trying to change things that it goes wrong.

Though code 62 and 65 would indicate something wrong somewhere with the grey and yellow wires.

Could always take the covers off the controller and try look for anything blown/cracked on the circuit board

worth a try i guess. challenge for tomorrow ;)

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 les666 said:
Maybe set it to change over at 4500 or 5000 and see what happens. Is the check engine on all the time whether the controller is on or off? I would go back and check your wiring. Make sure that the striped wires go to the ecu and that the plain coloured wires go the other way. If you need here is a partially translated manual I put together with some help from a dude on uklegacy.com. https://www.dropbox.com/s/0uzrco2j7wl55dr/Zerosports%20Controller.pdf

that translated manual will work wonders for checking the wiring thanks heaps

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 steve118 said:
holy subaru thank you so much bro. cant wait for daylight so i can get out there and check the wiring!! :o

Sweet as man. Now check out the Zerosports wiring diagram again. This might show better.

Which ECU loom wires get cut completely and which ECU loom wires get joined onto.

Zerosports_fix.png

02wiring.jpg

Edited by Rosssub
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 Andy_Mac said:

Hope ya finally get it up and running.

so it turns out that the grey wire (pressure differential sensor) was spliced into the wrong one. put it into the correct one and the primary and secondary both boost fine, just need to clear the check engine light.

plug both the black and both the green connectors together under the dash and drive over 20kmh for a few minutes?

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 Rosssub said:
Yip, after you drive for a bit the CEL will start flashing. Constant flashes for 'all ok', or a code if a fault is found.

drove for about 8-10 minutes. kept on flashing code 62. i have unplugged the battery so ill check again in a short while

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 Rosssub said:
So you have used 13 crimps? Can you take a pic of the wiring?

it came with the japanese bullet connectors. so the wires coming from the ECU have had a bullet style connector crimped onto them. and as for the ones which are spliced into the cables and not actually cutting them (power, rpm, ground etc) they were done by mechanic and most things have been wrapped in electrical tape

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