Zerosports Sequential Boost Controller Issue

[steve118]

 Rosssub said:

Sweet. There's also a small reset button inside the zerosports controller, just behind the front face plate.

hmm ok ill go see if i can find it

[steve118]

found the button but it didnt clear the check engine light. its a lot nicer to drive now that i can actually use both turbos and i have it set to changeover at around the 9psi mark for primary so it doesnt cut as often. still not perfect though

[Marky]

Was the car working fine before this controller got installed?

[steve118]

Yep. Only issue was ABS but Alex at highbrook automotive did an excellent job at fixing that

[Andy_Mac]

The ordeal is almost over!!!

Are you saying boost cut at 9psi??

[steve118]

 Andy_Mac said:

The ordeal is almost over!!!

Are you saying boost cut at 9psi??

boost still cuts at 10psi but i set the controller to changeover at the point just before primary reaches 10psi so it is a lot better than before.

i still put it down to being a faulty controller though.

[Andy_Mac]

Yea i don't think there should be any kind of boost cut that low. I think mine does 11psi before switchover. Did it do it with the controller off?

Try find a steepish motorway/100km area and in 5th, maybe 4th and floor it and see what it goes up to. With the really high load and low revs mine gets 14-15psi on just the primary. Not advisable to do it often though. Not good for the turbo. But its one of the few ways to really test out the primary without the switchover messing things up

[steve118]

 Andy_Mac said:

Yea i don't think there should be any kind of boost cut that low. I think mine does 11psi before switchover. Did it do it with the controller off?

Try find a steepish motorway/100km area and in 5th, maybe 4th and floor it and see what it goes up to. With the really high load and low revs mine gets 14-15psi on just the primary. Not advisable to do it often though. Not good for the turbo. But its one of the few ways to really test out the primary without the switchover messing things up

it used to change at around 14psi on primary, but check engine light is causing boost cut? am i right?

i tried on motorway earlier and it got to 10 and cut

[Andy_Mac]

And its doing the same with the controller turned off?

Try renoving the battery to clear all old codes and then take it for a boost and see what codes show up after doing that.

[steve118]

 Andy_Mac said:

And its doing the same with the controller turned off?

Try renoving the battery to clear all old codes and then take it for a boost and see what codes show up after doing that.

battery is unplugged right now. will plug it back in, in the morning, and see what i find.

and yes, happens when controller is off also

[Marky]

I dont think check engine engages any lower cuts on a subaru, just kills power outright if its in limp mode

If the controller wasnt there id be looking at air leaks or afm being at fault, my last bg had 16ish on the primary, 10psi is less than stock and probably about half of what you need to,get to any kind of airflow cut

[steve118]

 Marky said:

I dont think check engine engages any lower cuts on a subaru, just kills power outright if its in limp mode

If the controller wasnt there id be looking at air leaks or afm being at fault, my last bg had 16ish on the primary, 10psi is less than stock and probably about half of what you need to,get to any kind of airflow cut

yeh mine used to boost a lot higher. have you never heard of the ECU/Check Engine Light causing the boost cut? Because it is pretty much always cut at 10psi. after driving a long time it sometimes studders at about 3/4psi.

unplugging the battery didnt do anything, cel is still there.

[Rosssub]

The CEL wont cause boost cut, the CEL is letting you know something is wrong. Limp mode gives WGSP of about 7psi, no boost cuts.

I'd remove the controller completely, do an ECU reset and then check for faults. It might be nothing to do with the controller at all.

[steve118]

 Rosssub said:

The CEL wont cause boost cut, the CEL is letting you know something is wrong. Limp mode gives WGSP of about 7psi, no boost cuts.

I'd remove the controller completely, do an ECU reset and then check for faults. It might be nothing to do with the controller at all.

will be a very long process but i suppose its all i can try

[steve118]

would a dodgy fitting on the intercooler be a likely cause of this?

[Rosssub]

Yes, boost leak/vac leak. Have you got a split pipe?

Still probably not the cause of the CEL-62, ECV vacuum solenoid. That's either controller/wiring/BBOD fault.

Edited August 15, 2014 by Rosssub

[steve118]

 Rosssub said:

Yes, boost leak/vac leak. Have you got a split pipe?

Still probably not the cause of the CEL-62, ECV vacuum solenoid. That's either controller/wiring/BBOD fault.

the solenoid in the BOD has been replaced. wiring looks to be correct so i put it down to the controller. but the 10psi boost cut is a mystery

[Andy_Mac]

Mate if you ever come down to tga you can still try out my controller and we can have a look over your system for potential leaks and such. Any sort of boost cut that low is definately not right. Have a few brewski's afterwards. CS is pretty dead down this way aye. Tga town is alright if your that way inclined (;

[steve118]

 Andy_Mac said:

Mate if you ever come down to tga you can still try out my controller and we can have a look over your system for potential leaks and such. Any sort of boost cut that low is definately not right. Have a few brewski's afterwards. CS is pretty dead down this way aye. Tga town is alright if your that way inclined (;

sounds like a plan! unfortunately with the way work is atm i only have tuesdays/wednesdays off. will likely be down that way in about 2 weeks

[steve118]

 les666 said:

I used to get cel 62 as well it kept opening the ecv at idle and triggered the code. I always thought it was a dodgy controller and got another one. But yeah as Rosssub says recheck your wiring. I might switch to my old controller and see if it still throws a 62...

EDIT... I just checked my old controller and it is still bung. Opens the ecv. Have you got the dip switches set properly?

did yours boost cut at 10psi with the bad controller?

[les666]

No. I just had it turned off and it didn't affect the car at all. But then again mine is an auto bg5a and peak boost on primary is 11psi but then I still have stock exhaust and stock boost control.

[steve118]

hmmm so theres no chance that its the cel #62 giving me boost cut?

[les666]

If the check engine light is on then it will be in limp mode which will be wastegate pressure which I think is about 7psi and runs like arse. What line do you have your boost gauge plumbed into? Have you had a chance to check the wiring yet? Did it boost cut before you put the controller in?

[steve118]

 les666 said:

If the check engine light is on then it will be in limp mode which will be wastegate pressure which I think is about 7psi and runs like arse. What line do you have your boost gauge plumbed into? Have you had a chance to check the wiring yet? Did it boost cut before you put the controller in?

didnt boost cut before, and boost gauge has been installed for ages with no issues. ill try and take a photo of where my boost gauge is plumbed into. i am going to make a start on the wiring tomorrow

[Rosssub]

Is it actual boost cut, like a violent jerking or instant loss of power as though the ignition is turned off? Or just boost is maxing at 10psi?