inner rack joint

[STiNGR]

Well my legacy was thrown out today because of a "Worn inner rack joint". Question is, how can I tell it's worn? What's the tell tale signs it's worn? Also is there any info on here regarding how to replace the bastard of a thing?

[Guest]

Possible play in rack he prob gave it a wiggle on the hoist.

Follow your nose to replace. Couple of ring spanners to whip it off and need an alignment after.

[STiNGR]

Yer ok. Just seen ya need a "special tool" can ya get around that. Where should I buy the inner rack end?

[Guest]

Special tool?

Any parts joint. Extreme/partmaster/repco etc.

[STiNGR]

Yer it's like a 1/2 socket that fits over the big nut then like a big cylinder extension that goes over the rod. Sweet. I will suss it in weekend. Cheers.

[Rosssub]

Did they say which side? One will be a bit sloppy and might show movement when the steering wheel is turned from side to side. They're about $29.00 each.

To change them over:

Crack the front wheel nuts, chock the rear wheels then jack the front end up and place on axle stands.

Then remove the wheel, take out the tie rod end split pin and remove the castle nut:

Then put the castle nut back on upside down and use a block of wood and a hammer to knock the tie rod end out of the hub:

Now the whole steering arm will hang freely. Cut or remove the straps holding the boot in place and slide the rack boot down the shaft to get at the inner rack end. Be careful not to cut the boot unless your replacing it.

Now use a 32mm spanner/wrench to undo the inner rack end and remove the arm completely.

Once it's out measure the total length as precisely as you can, so the replaced arms length is as close as possible. This effects your wheel alignment, front toe in etc.

Then use a 1/2" or 13mm spanner on the shaft and loosen the tie rod end locking nut. Then remove the tie rod.

Then slide the rack boot off and install it onto the new arm/rack end. Here's a pic of the rack ends removed:

Thread the tie rod back on and get it adjusted to the same length it was originally. Then tightn the locking nut.

Then thread the new rack end into the steering rack and tighten it up. Reinstall the tie rod end into the hub. Put the castle nut back on and reinstall the split pin.

Slide the rack end boot back in place and use cable ties to secure it in place tightly. Making sure it's not twisted.

All done. It can be done without removing the tie rod end from the hub, but the above way makes it easier to measure, also easier to install the new rack end into the steering rack.

[Percy]

Damn you do good write ups Rosssub!

[STiNGR]

Thanks heaps Ross. Total lifesaver. Be sure to drop in next time your in chch.

[Rosssub]

Sweet, will do.

[patrickc22]

what is this special tool ill need ?

[Rosssub]

No special tool needed.

[patrickc22]

How tight do I need to get the iner rack

[Rosssub]

There's a locking washer/collar behind it, so doesn't need to be stupid tight. Workshop manual says 78 N·m (8.0 kgf-m, 58 ft-lb).

[DRFVDR]

if you dont have a spanner big enough, 32mm I have even used a pair of stilsons, works very well.

And as said they have a lock washer so "nipped" up is tight enough