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How to get my V7 wrx sti handling better....


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 evowrx said:
Whiteline say it does. My car says it has a massive effect.

As per the other posts I'm sure it does something, as below, length of levers etc... I just suspect it won't behave the same as a 22mm bar for example, as it's still fundamentally a 24mm bar, the lever itself is stiffer, a different length, different leverage ratios, blah blah.

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 boon said:
As per the other posts I'm sure it does something, as below, length of levers etc... I just suspect it won't behave the same as a 22mm bar for example, as it's still fundamentally a 24mm bar, the lever itself is stiffer, a different length, different leverage ratios, blah blah.

How sensitive is your arse? Bet it just feels stiff either way.

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 GC8E2DD said:
I think the stiffness of your posterior would have more effect on damping than rolling.

I lol'd

TBH unless we're talking controlled laps of a track, I'd just chuck some sort of decent aftermarket bar in it with some decent bushes and go enjoy it.

With stock struts it's still going to wallow a bit regardless.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Does anyone know about cutting the bump stops when fitting springs? Iv spent some time searching it, and some say its not needed, and others say it makes a hell of a difference. Does anyone have some info to share that could help? how much is needed to be cut in front and real if its the option....

Cheers

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 kwi_fozze said:
The prodrive spec sheet recomment fitting their prodrive bumpstops if fitting their springs, which are about half the length. Imho, if you were going to do it, i'd chop them in half and use the wider half on the strut

ohkay sweet cheers. both for front and back?

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Do you mean the nut that holds the top hat/ spring perch onto the shaft? That is a pretty difficult one to apply a specific torque to; you can't hold the shaft captive easily and you don't want the shaft spinning in its seals.

Ignore me if you mean the clevis or top mounting studs.

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 GC8E2DD said:
Do you mean the nut that holds the top hat/ spring perch onto the shaft? That is a pretty difficult one to apply a specific torque to; you can't hold the shaft captive easily and you don't want the shaft spinning in its seals.

Ignore me if you mean the clevis or top mounting studs.

i think the one at the opposite end? the bottom side of the strut. would be the last bolt you undo before the strut is able to be broken down and the bump stop can then be cut...

Edited by hunter951
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Why don't you get a set of the matching bumpstops? They probably will have put a bit more effort in than sawing random bits off the OEM part. I would assume the OEM part to be progressive; something you will change wildly if you cut it in half.

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 GC8E2DD said:
Why don't you get a set of the matching bumpstops? They probably will have put a bit more effort in than sawing random bits off the OEM part. I would assume the OEM part to be progressive; something you will change wildly if you cut it in half.

Tein dont do them, and i dont know who do. All i know is tein say to cut them in the manual.

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 boon said:
Anyone want to take a wild guess about what the bump stop is there for, and why cutting it might just be a kinda dumb idea?

thats why im asking because i seems odd to me, but Tein say to do so... and so many contradicting opinions to

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