Suspension choices, need help

[creecha]

Hey all, this is my first post since the last one. As per usual I'm needing help which is why I usually end up here

I need to replace the shocks in my '98 sti type r which is exciting but I'm really not looking to have to get a cert for anything but I'm unsure as to what limits I need to adhere to.

-Is the only way to get OEMish stuff? I'd really like to upgrade the sloppy s*#t I have now, no idea what it has now but looks standard.

-If I get coilovers will I need to get a cert or is it only if the are adjustable(can you get non adjustable ones)?

-What options would anyone recommend for an upgrade without needing a cert?

I'll (attempt to) install them myself unless someone convince me otherwise.

Any help would be much appreciated.

[Scoobydoo]

Strong for Subaru are a popular choice for finding replacement OEM parts

http://www.subaruspeed.co.nz/collections/struts-and-hubs

[creecha]

Thanks for the quick reply. I just emailed them.

[Guest]

Throw in a rear sway bar 22mm minimum. If you have stock red sti struts keep em. If you want it lower throw a set of low springs at it.

Adjusties require a cert and best to buy new as secondhand the odds are ****. So bargain on -2k and need to recert if change rims etc.

Easy to install yourself with spring compressors and basic tools.

[creecha]

Again thanks for the quick reply

So you are suggesting getting OEM and adding a rear sway bar?

I don't want to lower it really.

I'll grab some spring compressors from some generic autoparts store.

[loner]

I also recommend keeping the stock shocks, but they are hard to find replacements for.

WRX shocks are easy to find... STi are really hard. When I looked into

it recently my only options were new struts from Subaru, or rebuilding what I had.

[Guest]

Stick with what you have if theyre red sti struts. Yep just add rear bar and see how you like it.

[creecha]

I'll check in the morning if they are red (like my face for not knowing already). Cheers guys!

ps evowrx I'm halfway through reading your build thread, it's great reading

[GC8E2DD]

If it's a version 4, the struts will be black (if still OEM). If it's a 5, you should have the reds with the thicker (40mm) shafts. One option is to get the OEM stuts rebuilt with Bilstein inserts. I have a feeling Al did that. Then you should have 'as new' serviceable shocks. Bonus points if the tech who does it can give you dyno sheets of the pairs to prove they are matched.

[loner]

A rebuild is not the same as new when dealing with inverted struts... the shocks themselves

will be as good or better, but if the inside surface of the strut is worn, then they will knock

and not work as well.

[creecha]

So it seems the struts are black.

And there is a knock from the left rear, would this indicate that its not worth re-building them?

What would be the best way to proceed? take the whole car to Al or does anyone recommend someone else?

Put the car on axle stands and pull them all out myself?

I'm obviously trying to keep costs down as much as possible as I guess we all try to do so anything to help this I'll do. But in saying that I want the end result to be something good.

I'll do as evowrx said and get a rear bar, maybe from him unless someone has a spare laying around they want to flick off cheap.

Thanks everyone for your input so far. I'm fresh back into the country and enjoying being able to be able to get into some projects. I've got a husky dirt bike in pieces too, but the car takes priority for now.

[Guest]

Pm al and check who did it for him. Otherwise try pick up some red v5 6 sti struts.

[GC8E2DD]

You can totally do the change yourself. It is not technical or in need of special tools. Just leave heaps of time if you are going solo the first time. Putting the whole car up on axle stands can speed it up. The rear top studs can be awkward to put a socket on; the main thing is not to over tighten them or you may snap them off. You will hear if they come loose later on as the top hats will rattle in the body over bumps. Also disconnect one end of the sway bar at either end of the car before you begin or getting the hubs reattached will be hard work (your factory links require an Allen key to undo!). Remember to mark your camber bolts in the front before loosening them, but you should probably get an alignment soonish afterwards anyway.

[loner]

Just because they are knocking doesn't mean you cant get anymore life out of them. It could just mean that

the grease inside the strut has dried out and needs refreshing... of course if they have been like that

for a while they maybe a bit stuffed. As said above, it's pretty easy to remove the struts and disassemble

if you give yourself some time.

[Zenki]

Chiming in on adjustable suspension: If RIDE HEIGHT adjustable, requires cert. The alternative (adjustable dampers + aftermarket springs) requires some homework as you need to know your desired ride height in advance, but no cert required.

It's probably not much cheaper that way, but it saves you from the hassle of having an LVV certification.