melted knock sensor and coils ?? with pics

[lachlan]

things i know about this motor . the cooling system was jeopardized . was driven untill it wouldnt drive anymore . then i acquired it

we towed it across and it still pulled a reasonable amount of vacuum to make the brakes work etc .

bottom end sounds ok .

pulled motor out and have found these

all 4 coils look like this . two coils are black resin filler . 2 are clear resin. still had rubber boots on them obviously

the knock sensor looks melted ? any other word for it ?

did the engine really run till it was hot enough to melt coils and stuff ?

Edited October 4, 2015 by lachlan

[Rosssub]

I have a severely overheated GDA engine at home. The knock sensor is melted same as yours, IIRC the crank sensor is just as bad.

[megamac]

I think I have a set of those coils here if you need them

[Kiwi_Fozze]

If its overheated that bad, would one not expect the heads to have warped?

[lachlan]

Yea im curious as to what stopped ot running . I really would have thought it would lose enough to not run before it could get that hot

[lachlan]

so ripped a head off . heads look ok . gaskets look ok . block not so much

wtf do you even call that ? peripheral ported? wtf happened . gasket partial leakage then erroded the block ? the head stud in that location was loose

[Guest]

No coolant.

[McDoof]

Maybe oil plus coolant = sludge. That looks like you have bought yourself a paper weight :-)

[Marky]

I like to think it got killed off with an extended grass hacking limiter bash session

Bit of knead-it and she'll be sweet bra

[falco]

Some random thoughts - too hot, leading to weakening of cylinder walls, open block allows the top of the bores to flex and flare. Combustion at near TDC, the top of the bores will stretch and split, there's not much to stop that. A tiny crack would get widened pretty quickly in that situation, I think. If that stud was loose, maybe the thread pulled? I can't imagine the stud itself stretching - I'd imagine steel would resist high temperatures a lot better than the alloy would. Maybe the collapsing of the bores was enough to take the load off the head bolt.

[lachlan]

the whole thing was a steal and i knew engine was toast . have previously driven this car. its in good knick and has 6 months reg . is manual . lot better condition than mine . has sunroofs .

cost less than a days wages haha

also just bought a running long block for $130 .

that picture was drivers side . the left side is worse lol . all 4 "holes" are near exhaust valve . there is a piece missing big enough to stick the end of my fat thumb in lol

can anyone tell me if u can single turb the 4 plug legacys with the other 4 plug ecus ? eg a bc5 or early gc8 one ?

[Guest]

No coolant pitted cylinder walls plus heat from exhaust caused it to let go would be my guess. How do the coolant side of cylinder walls look?

[Rosssub]

 lachlan said:

Can anyone tell me if u can single turb the 4 plug legacys with the other 4 plug ecus ? eg a bc5 or early gc8 one ?

Check out post #10 by Koom in ReubenH's single turbo 2.0 thread:

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?64-The-Single-Turbo-Conversion-Thread-2-0

[lachlan]

Yea cherrs for that I found it eventually . After reafing what koom said then realising I should be putting a newer ecu not an older one in it . And that 3 plugs of 4 will go into a 3 plug ecu ill get some yellows n get re pinning . Whule im asking questions . Does an a7 ecu run a orange afm ? And have any other reason why it wouldnt work ?

[lachlan]

Passenger side lol

[Rosssub]

The A7 is from a version 5/6 WRX. So has different shaped ECU plugs, insert type AFM, different idle control valve etc. I think you want a 6S or 75 ECU:

https://www.dirtyolbc.co.nz/community/topic/2232-ecus-and-what-ecu-for-what-car/

[lachlan]

Legend . Yea I prolly could have figured as much