Swaybar woes

[runrabbit]

Sup y'all,

Installed a new Whiteline 22mm front swaybar with grease-less bushes the other day. Got some new endlinks from BNT - as suggested by the forum previously.

The problem is the swaybar keeps moving (towards the passenger side) even after slow/normal driving around town. As a result the endlinks end up being 'uneven'. ie the left endlink ends up vertical, and the right side at an angle. like / and |

So the swaybar is moving, which can not be good.

Should the swaybar bushings and clamps technically be enough to hold the swaybar in place? I don't have a torque wrench so using a 12mm socket wrench. Or am I going to require additional Whiteline lateral locks (collars) to stop the swaybar moving??

I didn't have this issue with my rear swaybar.

Ideas???

Cheers

RR

[McDoof]

You can get collars for them. Holds them steady.

I'll dig up an Amazon link

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006K8N6XO/

One either side of the mounts. Just have to find one that ships to NZ and the right size

Edited December 18, 2015 by McDoof

[Andy_Mac]

Yea the whiteline ones are notorious for their lateral movement. Got the whiteline locks on mine which seem to do the job, no real way for them not too. Very definately worth getting. Any brand that fits over that size bar will do though

[loner]

You don't need to "official" clamps... anything will do... even hose clamps as long as you make sure they won't damage the bushings.

[runrabbit]

Cheers all.

Was thinking about it last night and if hose clamps would also do the same job.

[loner]

Just put something under the clamps to protect the bar and for extra grip... just some rubber or silicone from an old hose etc.

[B4 I was 250T]

Wait, this whole thing is confusing. I have a Whittling 22mm rear, nolathane bushes and BNT end links and mine went on fine. Have we got a photo of what's going on here so I can check mine?

[loner]

The rear bars don't move because the D links don't allow any lateral movement.

[Andy_Mac]

What exactly are you referring to by D links?

My rear without the clamps would still have most of a fingers width of space at each end to move laterally before the bend in the bar would stop it. But thats nothing compared to the movement the fronts can have. The BE/BH ones look similar other than the big hump on one side.

Edited December 21, 2015 by Andy_Mac

[boon]

 Andy_Mac said:

What exactly are you referring to by D links?

My rear without the clamps would still have most of a fingers width of space at each end to move laterally before the bend in the bar would stop it. But thats nothing compared to the movement the fronts can have. The BE/BH ones look similar other than the big hump on one side.

BP/BL's (and maybe BE/BH?) use silly little swaybar links, most other Subarus use a grunty D-shaped link that effectively prevents most lateral movement of the rear sway bar.

[Scoobydoo]

A set of the collar locks came with my Whiteline front sway bar when I bought it, but I never put them on. Maybe I'm thinking I should look into this..

[runrabbit]

Got some Whiteline lateral links (KLL122) which hopefully will do the trick. After install and one quick drive the bar seems to have stayed put. Now just to deal with the groaning noises. I assume its the bushings, and I'm using Whiteline's new 'greaseless' bushings. I'm not convinced they work. Anyone else have experience with greaseless bushings? Should I just put grease over the "cloth-like PTFE liner"?

Original swaybar and endlink

L end link - near vertical position

R endlink - being pulled over to the left

 Andy_Mac said:

What exactly are you referring to by D links?

Rear D link

[Andy_Mac]

Yea thought so, would have called that a C link if I had the master car part naming job.

You can always get the solid endlinks rather than adjustable which more often than not have a fairly solid bush and a bolt going right the way through so should give similar stiffness to the D link.

http://www.whiteline.com.au/mobile_product_detail.php?part_number=KLC30&sq=20630

[hunter951]

just chucking it out there... would a decent wheel alignment help?? if something is way out of wacke itll be pulling it off?

[loner]

Definitely a capital D http://www.buyhardrace.com//images/products/1284412052-6142.jpg

Wheel alignment is irrelevant.

[Andy_Mac]

Half of it will be what way you enter your driveway. Without my clamps I could check it and it'd be centred before going in the drive and after that it'd be pulled off to one side, quite a prick of a driveway though.

Pfft, back on your meds man, totally a capital C

[boon]

Damn you have some camber wear on one of those tyres too.

Rotate!

[runrabbit]

Haha, I was waiting for that!

 boon said:

Damn you have some camber wear on one of those tyres too.

Rotate!

[runrabbit]

Update - got rid of the noises by coating the bushings with White Lithium Grease ($15 from Repco).

Bottomline - the greaseless bushings are b.s.

[Scoobydoo]

 runrabbit said:

Update - got rid of the noises by coating the bushings with White Lithium Grease ($15 from Repco).

Bottomline - the greaseless bushings are b.s.

Guess that's my next fix then