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BL/BP owners - What made you choose your motor/box combo?


Skatieguy

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 Jono24 said:
Scaremongering, generalisations, and the anecdotal ramblings of a senile old man.

Well Im not blind as you seem to be. Read and take note of the content on this forum and all the other failures NOT talked about on this forum.

You only need to talk to mechanics that fix Subarus.

Age means experience had no issues so far with Subarus apart from maintenance for age related stuff ie 6th Suburas in last 24 years.

I'm also entitled to have an opinion also without being being personally attacked.

_

Haven't been on this forum for a considerable period of time the this is a good reason not to bother again.

Edited by Stodart
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Yes, everyone is entitled to their opinion; saying that anything turbocharged is a time bomb amounts to scaremongering in mine.

Also, asking a mechanic whether they see a lot of broken Subarus is like asking an A&E doctor if they see a lot of head injuries; last time I looked there appeared to still be a lot of humans with heads intact.

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Subaru in general for a general workshop rather than genuine/specialist means 1990-00 era. Most of which have had a good raping/boyracer mods/boost tap etc causing det/lean out/hg issues etc. Last i checked there was no expiry date for a looked after subaru to throw a leg out of bed. Doesnt help these cars in question cost 3k and boost tap costs 30 and then it boosts tweenie g.

Its not bl/bp/gd mechanics are talking about. The vf38 have caused issues tho that would be the exception.

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 Andy_Mac said:
You're thinking of it the wrong way round Adikt. They read km/L not L/100km. 8.2km/L is pretty bad. I'm averaging 8 on mine right now and thats with it being at 100% throttle probably 60% of the time for tuning. Open road I get 10-11. Obviously not a 3.0r but they get relatively similar fuel consumption.

Nz new read L/100k. And jdm is km/L. Mine nz new sorry. Make a little bit more sense now

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I get around 12.6l/100km average. Mostly driving to work and back to be fair. Drops to around 8.5l/100km on the open road. Best full tank 9.9l/100km, worst full tank 14.2l/100km. And a whopping 27l/100km on the track.

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I owned a BLE auto for 2 years, at the start i loved it. But it had alot of bad things and i would have rather owned the manual 6 speed version and if i had i wouldnt have sold it. I sold it and then went and got a BF5 GT manual that honestly had not alot of difference to me but was alot nicer to drive and was a 1/8 the cost as well as manual and turbo. And also gave me the money to finish my GC which is now done.

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 GorGasmSpecB said:
I had a 3.0R 6 speed and a 2.0GT auto.

This is how I would pick them:

Performance oriented driver, likes to mod, won't settle for second best = 2.0 or 2.5 turbo manual

Performance oriented driver, likes to mod, can't be bothered shifting gears = 2.0 or 2.5 turbo auto

Sporty driver that likes refinement and thinks a modern hatchback is fast enough, not worried abouts mods apart from looks/sound = 3.0R manual

A reliable comfortable everyday cruiser that isn't gutless = 3.0R auto

Just want a wagon hack = 2.0 or 2.5 non turbo auto or manual

Short story - the turbo manual has the most performance and potential.

The 3.0R cars smoother but slower.

other non turbos are just hacks.

That's basically all there is to it, I drive a different flavour of these things almost daily at the moment it seems

Auto box negates the differences between the 3.0 and 2.0 in stock form (absorbs the turbo lag, dulls the n/a response) and they put identical power to the wheels

The 2 and 2.5 n/a motors are dogs, they make the car feel like a 1.8 BMW, just underpowered

2.5 turbo is my pick for a daily / all rounder, just feels strong everywhere and still has the headroom to make a heap more if you want it too - shame they costs more moneys is all

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  • 2 weeks later...
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 GorGasmSpecB said:
I had a 3.0R 6 speed and a 2.0GT auto.

This is how I would pick them:

Performance oriented driver, likes to mod, won't settle for second best = 2.0 or 2.5 turbo manual

Performance oriented driver, likes to mod, can't be bothered shifting gears = 2.0 or 2.5 turbo auto

Sporty driver that likes refinement and thinks a modern hatchback is fast enough, not worried abouts mods apart from looks/sound = 3.0R manual

A reliable comfortable everyday cruiser that isn't gutless = 3.0R auto

Just want a wagon hack = 2.0 or 2.5 non turbo auto or manual

Short story - the turbo manual has the most performance and potential.

The 3.0R cars smoother but slower.

other non turbos are just hacks.

Have a heavily modified STI hidden in the garage for when you actually want to go fast = 3.0R Auto

:)

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 Skatieguy said:
After reading the comments the H6 manual still seems to be the go. Is the facelift version worth the extra coin or will I just be paying extra for stuff I won't/will hardly ever need? Any better handling etc?

The facelift H6 Manual has mostly cosmetic changes. There are some minor changes to the gearbox. AFIAK they switched to a standard STI unit in the facelift, whereas the pre facelift had a slightly longer 6th gear and a more angled cut on the gears to make it smoother on changes.

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 McDoof said:
The facelift H6 Manual has mostly cosmetic changes. There are some minor changes to the gearbox. AFIAK they switched to a standard STI unit in the facelift, whereas the pre facelift had a slightly longer 6th gear and a more angled cut on the gears to make it smoother on changes.

I like the facelift look a little better but I think a longer 6th and smoother shifts trumps that. I think pre facelift will be the go if that's the case.

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 Skatieguy said:
I like the facelift look a little better but I think a longer 6th and smoother shifts trumps that. I think pre facelift will be the go if that's the case.

It may be worth double checking that. This is information I got from a thread on the Aussie forums some time ago, but I have never actually checked it.

The post facelift also gets a 1MB ECU rather than a 512K version, so the engine is a bit smoother due to having more granular ECU tables to work with.

I say go drive a few of them and pick the one the feels the best. I drove about 15 cars before I finally picked one.

Then get it remapped. Even without any modifications you will get a huge improvement in midrange torque. For me it changed me from liking my car to loving it.

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@Skatieguy: I drove the 2.5T NZ New Spec B you linked, I'm not sure if you have driven it. I felt a hestitation/stutter in the turbo when on boost, so much so that even my wife who knows nothing about cars asked if I let off the accelerator. Exterior/Interior is far superior than the JDM GTs you get though, unless of course they had all the same options ticked.

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 McDoof']It may be worth double checking that. This is information I got from a thread on the Aussie forums some time ago, but I have never actually checked it.

The post facelift also gets a 1MB ECU rather than a 512K version, so the engine is a bit smoother due to having more granular ECU tables to work with.

I say go drive a few of them and pick the one the feels the best. I drove about 15 cars before I finally picked one.

Then get it remapped. Even without any modifications you will get a huge improvement in midrange torque. For me it changed me from liking my car to loving it.

Would the difference in the ECUs affect the fuel efficiency and power after tune or not enough of a difference to matter? My location is a bit sh*t for test driving cars as well as my time off. I'm more than happy to test drive one and if I like it then take it, knowing that I will be modding things here and there to make it handle better or sound/perform better post tune. $$$ and km's also matter to me and the pre facelift is a fair bit cheaper.

[quote name='Semaphore said:

@Skatieguy: I drove the 2.5T NZ New Spec B you linked, I'm not sure if you have driven it. I felt a hestitation/stutter in the turbo when on boost, so much so that even my wife who knows nothing about cars asked if I let off the accelerator. Exterior/Interior is far superior than the JDM GTs you get though, unless of course they had all the same options ticked.

Nah I didn't test drive it, I've still got some vehicles to get rid of before I buy another one. Stuff like that is why I'd pick the 3.0 over either turbo model.

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I freaking love my h6 5eat in the outback. But auckland traffic made me think twice. I now just want a run off the mill 2.0 dohc or sohc 4eat. Just can not justify the 7.6 km per liter thing in auckland traffic.. If only outbacks has a manual option that will improve on things..

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Don't even consider the smaller engined ones, you get no gain in economy and lose what power the 3l does have

No difference going to an outback (why would it?)

Maybe look at a different car for a commute? End of the day a 3L legacy is not really any different to a maxima/skyline/camry etc with a big V6

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My PBMS Tuned 2004 Legacy GT Spec B was able to get the following economy (measure by actual litres at fill time from a full tank)

Hamilton to Wellington Return - 7.6L per 100 kms

Hamilton to Auckland Return - 9L per 100 kms

Hamilton to Tauranga Return - 9.5L per 100 kms

Town driving - 12-14L per 100 kms

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I have a full log of all miles and fuel ever put into my car. At bit OCD about that stuff but it helps identify if there are issues.

So:

Full tank open road driving @ around 100 to 110 km/h = 8.6 l/100km (was 9.9 before the tune)

Full tank of town only driving mostly 10km commute = 13 l/100km Lots of cold starts

Average over the last 10 000km is 12.4 l/100km

Real world numbers. The dash consumption gauge shows around 13.1 so it's a fair bit over.

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