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VF22 cant reach to 20psi/laggy


subaroo

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WGSP-wastegate spring pressure, normally 7.5psi. When the CEL is popping up the ECU wants to go into limp mode and run WGSP, tuning and fuelling for 7.5psi. While your EBC/Turbo is trying to force over 20psi. Sort the CEL's out, then reset the ECU.

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Sweet. For the CEL-44 Boost solenoid. There are 2 green plugs under the dash to put the car into test mode (providing test mode works with the piggy back ECU). In test mode the boost solenoid should be clicking. If it doesn't then check for voltage at the loom plug. Also make sure the loom plug is clean and tight. More info on the test mode connectors in here:

http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Knowledge/ReadingECUCodes

CEL-45 covers the MAP sensor and also the atmospheric pressure change solenoid. The MAP sensor reads manifold pressure, but then during deceleration it also reads atmospheric pressure so the ECU can adjust for high altitudes etc.

The pressure change solenoid is plumed in between the intake manifold and MAP sensor, so it can cut manifold pressure to the MAP, for the MAP to get an atmospheric reading. You could run jumper wires to the pressure change solenoid from the battery, power it to make sure it's working. Then again make sure the loom plug is clean and tight.

Check all vac lines are clean/clear and routed correctly. Specifically manifold>pressure change solenoid>MAP.

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 subaroo said:
yeap applied test mode, fan went on, clicking noise etc...

for CEL45 Map sensor its Tee with intake manifold and to the "hks evc-s boost sensor"

the pressure change solenoid is plug in but not vacuum connect up

Was the clicking noise the boost solenoid?

Reconnect the pressure change solenoid plumbing and move the EBC T-piece to before the pressure solenoid, (manifold > T-piece > pressure change solenoid).

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Um so u need to figure out if its bent or folded over..looks folded from pics if its folded then it's restricting air flow and could also be leaking. Cable tie is not best thing either better to use clamp. map sensor should always be directly connected to manifold it's manifold absolute pressure After all.. never tee anything in to it.

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one of the biggest improvements I did to my old legacy was replacing all the ****ty cable ties with proper steel clamps. It made a world of difference and cost only about $20 in materials. As Ross said the sensors need to be plugged in and have a vacuum reference. Check the cables are still soft and rubber feeling, if they're brittle they have to go in the bin yea? Obvisouly you've found your main problem in that turbo nipple but I would take this as a time to check all the piping. If your boost is coming on really late it could be a fault of turbo but it also could be

leaking or cracked intake piping - check all the piping to the turbo for cracks and make sure the joins are steel clamped (no cable ties), check breather lines are secure and not cracked, replace anything that is brittle

Leaking intercooler piping - this is generally quite obvious, car will make wooshing sounds but have no power, again check for leaks around the intercooler bends/joins and steel clamp everything

Leaking exhaust before turbo - Very common for uppipes to let go around the flexi joint, headers to crack, turbo exhaust housing to crack around the v-band. Generally you can hear the leak or know the engine is unusually loud

If you can confirm all of that is mint then you can go ahead and swap a turbo and might I suggest grabbing a td05, getting an 18g wheel and cover on it and have a great turbo that cost you all of $400, similar/better output than a vf22 and will last the distance

people have seriously got to get over this misconception that the vf22 is the best subaru turbo, it's not. It's a good turbo, a great one but it is not the best for a multitude of reasons.

Edited by slystiguy
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 slystiguy said:
one of the biggest improvements I did to my old legacy was replacing all the ****ty cable ties with proper steel clamps. It made a world of difference and cost only about $20 in materials. As Ross said the sensors need to be plugged in and have a vacuum reference. Check the cables are still soft and rubber feeling, if they're brittle they have to go in the bin yea? Obvisouly you've found your main problem in that turbo nipple but I would take this as a time to check all the piping. If your boost is coming on really late it could be a fault of turbo but it also could be

leaking or cracked intake piping - check all the piping to the turbo for cracks and make sure the joins are steel clamped (no cable ties), check breather lines are secure and not cracked, replace anything that is brittle

Leaking intercooler piping - this is generally quite obvious, car will make wooshing sounds but have no power, again check for leaks around the intercooler bends/joins and steel clamp everything

Leaking exhaust before turbo - Very common for uppipes to let go around the flexi joint, headers to crack, turbo exhaust housing to crack around the v-band. Generally you can hear the leak or know the engine is unusually loud

If you can confirm all of that is mint then you can go ahead and swap a turbo and might I suggest grabbing a td05, getting an 18g wheel and cover on it and have a great turbo that cost you all of $400, similar/better output than a vf22 and will last the distance

people have seriously got to get over this misconception that the vf22 is the best subaru turbo, it's not. It's a good turbo, a great one but it is not the best for a multitude of reasons.

yeap thanks for the advice. noticed theres exhaust leak pre turbo(between extractors and up pipe).

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