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Diff Removal - CV Boot Replacement - Diff Oil Change - How To


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I have a split left rear inner CV boot spraying grease everywhere. There's still some grease inside the CV, so better to get it fixed before the CV dries out and dies.

 

Started by putting the car on axle stands ready to go, then supported the exhaust midpipe:

Diff_CV_Boot_001.jpg

 

Then removed the axle back:

Diff_CV_Boot_002.jpg

 

Here's the split inner CV boot, right above the exhaust:

Diff_CV_Boot_004.jpg

 

Driveshaft unbolted and supported:

Diff_CV_Boot_006.jpg

 

Remove the two nuts that mount the diff rear to the subframe:

Diff_CV_Boot_009.jpg

 

Then the two front nuts from the diff front support:

Diff_CV_Boot_011.jpg

 

Then support the front of the diff and remove the two bolts:

Diff_CV_Boot_012.jpg

 

Lower the front of the diff and then slide it forwards, so the rear studs come free from the subframe bushes:

Diff_CV_Boot_015.jpg

 

With the diff dropped, support it high enough to not stress the axles/CV boots. Then use a pry bar to pop the axles out of the diff:

Diff_CV_Boot_019.jpg

 

With the diff free and supported. Slide the diff to the left and the right axle will come out. Be careful not to damage the oil seals in the diff:

Diff_CV_Boot_020.jpg

 

Then move the diff to the right and the left side axle can be pulled out:

Diff_CV_Boot_021.jpg

 

Then the diff can be pulled from under the car, being careful not to damage the axle shaft splines. I also haven't drained the diff (new fluid) so being careful not to tip it too:

Diff_CV_Boot_022.jpg

 

Back at the split CV boot, I've used flathead screwdriver to open up the straps locking tabs. Then removed the both straps:

Diff_CV_Boot_024.jpg

 

Then the CV boot can slide up the axle:

Diff_CV_Boot_026.jpg

 

I've used a small flathead to pry the ring clip from inside the CV cup:

Diff_CV_Boot_027.jpg

 

Clip removed:

Diff_CV_Boot_028.jpg

 

Then the CV cup will slide off:

Diff_CV_Boot_029.jpg

 

Be careful not to drop any balls:

Diff_CV_Boot_030.jpg

 

Remove the balls and the outer race will slide up the axle:

Diff_CV_Boot_031.jpg

 

Then on the end of the shaft is a circlip:

Diff_CV_Boot_033.jpg

 

Circlip removed:

Diff_CV_Boot_034.jpg

 

Then the knuckle will slide off the shaft:

Diff_CV_Boot_035.jpg

 

All parts removed cleaned up:

Diff_CV_Boot_040.jpg

 

Then here's the replacement boot kit. With a new boot, 2 straps and a bag of CV grease:

Diff_CV_Boot_038.jpg

 

Coat the inside of the new boot with grease:

Diff_CV_Boot_041.jpg

 

Then slide the new boot onto the axle shaft:

Diff_CV_Boot_042.jpg

 

Then refit the outer race, knuckle then circlip:

Diff_CV_Boot_045.jpg

 

Cover them thoroughly in grease and refit the balls:

Diff_CV_Boot_046.jpg

 

Then cover it in more grease:

Diff_CV_Boot_047.jpg

 

Then refit the CV cup and ring clip, putting any left over grease into the cup:

Diff_CV_Boot_048.jpg

 

Wipe clean where the boot meets the cup, then slide the new boot into place:

Diff_CV_Boot_049.jpg

 

Fit the new straps, getting them good and tight and making sure the boot is not twisted. I use pliers and a screwdriver to get the straps tight:

Diff_CV_Boot_053.jpg

 

Slide the diff back under the car and get it into position. Then install the left axle, clicking it into the diff:

Diff_CV_Boot_056.jpg

 

Right axle going in.

Diff_CV_Boot_057.jpg

 

Then wrestle the diff back in place. Lifting the rear in first:

Diff_CV_Boot_058.jpg

 

Refit and tighten the four main diff nuts/bolts to 51ftlb.

Then refit the driveshaft and tighten to 23.1ftlb.

Then refit the axle back exhaust:

Diff_CV_Boot_059.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

Found some old pic's, so thought I'd add rear differential fluid replacement into this thread. With the car jacked up on axle stands, preferably level for better draining and a more accurate fill. Here you'll see the lower drain plug and the upper fill (level) plug in the rear diff cover:

Diff_CV_Boot_059.jpg

 

Using a 1/2 inch drive power bar crack both plugs loose. Then slide a tray/container underneath and drain the oil. I removed the upper fill plug first to help the old oil dump out quicker, hoping to help flush any grit out. Having the diff fluid warmed from driving will also help:

Twin_Scroll_009.jpg

 

First time changing the diff oil the plugs were super tight. Ended up using a floor jack to help crack them loose:

Twin_Scroll_008.jpg

 

Then clean the plugs up. It will either have an alloy washer or silicone sealant depending on vehicle. I had the silicone type so put a smear of gasket silicone on the plug threads before reinstalling. OEM spec sealant is THREE BOND 1105 (P/N 004403010) or equivalent.

 

Also slightly different torque settings for the two plug types:

Silicone sealed bung:

49 Nm (36.2 ft-lb)

Alloy washer bung

34 Nm (25.3 ft-lb)

 

Refit the drain plug, then top up 0.8L of your chosen diff oil. I used a Valvoline 85W/90 performance gear oil. OEM oil specs can be seen on page #2659 in this manual:

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?39909-Workshop-manual-BE-BH-2003MY-Covers-TT-4442-pages-by-Fuji-Heavy-Industries

 

Or here's Swindog's sticky thread on suitable oils:

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?14056-Suitable-Oils

 

I used a big syringe to fill the oil last time round. Have used a length of hose with a funnel fitted in the past, filling from behind the car. Also read of members removing a rubber bung in the boot floor to put the filling hose through.

 

Top up the fluid until it reaches the filler plug. Then reinstall the upper plug, give everything a quick wipe and lower the car.

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