Clutch Pedal Failing To Return

[nismovzr2003]

Hey guys,

 

Quick query,

 

Under normal driving conditions the clutch pedal returns fully out, however on full throttle / boost the pedal sticks in and doesnt return and I have to toe flick it to get it to pop back out.

 

Now initially I thought there may have been air in the clutch line so I unbolted the slave cylinder, inverted and bled the system however there was no air present.

Is there anything else I should be considering?

 

I'm aware that the clutch fork spring is not installed, would this have a part to play?

 

Thanks

[loner]

The clutch fork spring will not affect the pedal return though it is important. I had the same problem recently... I bled the clutch a few times and each time it would fix it for about five minutes. I then replaced the slave cylinder and it was fixed mostly but still felt a bit weird... but then my pressure plated

broke as well. So I am unsure if both things were broken or just the pressure plate. Probably both with this car... every mechanical part in the engine

bay has needed some attention in the last year.

Edited October 16, 2016 by loner

[Joker]

@CodyBridge needs to look in this thread

[Dairusire]

Believe it or not, I've got this exact same issue. Only happens when going Wide open throttle. 

 

I'm running a 5 speed master and slave on a 6 speed clutch and flywheel (hawkeye gearbox). 

The entire clutch setup is brand new as well.

[nismovzr2003]

34 minutes ago, Dairusire said:

Believe it or not, I've got this exact same issue. Only happens when going Wide open throttle. 

 

I'm running a 5 speed master and slave on a 6 speed clutch and flywheel (hawkeye gearbox). 

The entire clutch setup is brand new as well.

I'm running a 6 speed box with 6 speed slave cylinder, 5 speed clutch and starter at the moment. Have got a 6 speed starter motor on the shelf in preparation, plan is to upgrade clutch and flywheel. For the life of me I cannot work out why it's doing it lol.

Will have a read through the article that Joker mentioned.

[Dairusire]

47 minutes ago, nismovzr2003 said:

I'm running a 6 speed box with 6 speed slave cylinder, 5 speed clutch and starter at the moment. Have got a 6 speed starter motor on the shelf in preparation, plan is to upgrade clutch and flywheel. For the life of me I cannot work out why it's doing it lol.

Will have a read through the article that Joker mentioned.

He mentioned an article ?

[loner]

He meant this thread 

Edited October 17, 2016 by loner

[Joker]

or nope I tagged a guy who has my old car that has the same thing, need to pull up the pedal with your toe & no amount of Bleeding fixes it, the spring on the slave cylinder appears fine

 

people have told me to check the one on the pedal itself but never got round'tuit

[Joker]

edit  : here's the "How to bleed your clutch" post if it helps / matters

 

Quote

Theres more than one way to do this, but this is my method. You can use a similar practice to brake bleeding but thats hard if you dont have a G-Clamp and a good assistant.

Step 1. Bang head off wall repeatedly

Step 2. Find a partner who understands the concept of brake bleeding

Step 3. Remove intercooler and any other crap that happens to be in the way. 10, 12 and 14mm sockets needed here.

Step 4. Fill master cylinder with fluid right to the top - do it now as shortly your hands are going to be rather full

Step 5. Remove slave cylinder (2x14mm bolts) and clamp the piston fully into the cylinder using a G-Clamp or some mad finger strength, then hold the cylinder as high as possible with the bleeder pointing straight up

Step 6. Loosen bleeder nipple right off (8mm or 10mm ring spanner?) and get assistant to pump the pedal a couple times through the full length of its stroke, this must be done by hand as the pedal will not return on its own. 5 or 6 pumps usually gets new fluid through all the lines

Step 7. Tighten bleeder and reinstall slave being carefull not to let the piston fall out

Step 8. Gently pump the clutch a couple times by hand untill it becomes firm and returns by itself (this fills the slave with fluid)

Step 9. Test the pedal a few times before you reinstall all that crap, if your clutch is disengaging nicely you should be able to select all gears with the pedal depressed and should feel good, also should be able to roll the car with the pedal depressed in gear, if not, go back to step 1

Step 10. Reinstall intercooler and all other crap, ensure fluid is at the max mark in the master cylinder, go for test drive.

And for gods sake dont let the master cylinder run dry at any point.

p.s dont try using a speed bleeder or you will spray brake fluid all over your nice clean engine

 

[nismovzr2003]

3 hours ago, Joker said:

edit  : here's the "How to bleed your clutch" post if it helps / matters

 

 

Yep exactly what I did...hasn't changed anything unfortunately lol

[loner]

Is there fluid leaking from any part of the hydraulic system? 

[nismovzr2003]

9 minutes ago, loner said:

Is there fluid leaking from any part of the hydraulic system? 

Doesn't appear to be

[loner]

Does the slave cylinder piston move smoothly and return to it normal position if pushed all the way in and within a short period of time? 

1 minute ago, loner said:

 

 

Edited October 17, 2016 by loner