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Project Kinder Surprise - engine build


Gripless

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Boost solenoid back on manifold wiring. Should go under stock mounting plate now.

 

Stock airbox can go back in. Has resonator removed and cold air duct from spot light. Stock air feed from front also feeds cold air.

Figured will cut a hole in it a cover with rubber flap. That way when cruising at speed and intakes are enough flap will stay closed and it’ll be pressurised a little. Though at low speed when launching the flap can open up to allow more airflow. Since it’s rubber no electronics needed the air pressure will open and close it as needed.

 

Crinkle alloy with ceramic mat between OEM exhaust shield material will go on. Better than turbo beanie as can’t soak up oil or fluids. 

Have worked out heat panel for brake master and clutch master but turns out there are many designs of these even with same generations of Sti so can’t just make a heap of them.



Other stupid ideas for more stock engine bay that may happen:

Take top plate off or cut up OEM rad header tank and put it over the aftermarket one. Remove the yellow warning sticker from stock cap and stick over new cap.

Cover turbo to airbox alloy pipe with heat wrap and then black plastic pipe.

Rotate the intercooler to throttle silicone joiner around so writing doesn’t show. But really it ok as can’t hide the PW top mount, maybe remove huge PW wording from it would help.

Could refit OEM turbo heat shield over compressor cover.

 

Wanting a “If you know, you know” engine bay look.

 

None of this hides the radium collection on the passengers side but there are loads of hoses and the battery cables over that side so it doesn’t stand out as much.Also massive shiny radiator sticks out a little.



 

Had the wild idea of getting the stock intercooler and taking end tank off to fit a water to air core between them. Water hoses in/out on the passengers side

That would then bolt up to the stock mounts and everything else like BOV etc.

Then remembered I only have seam welded stock intercoolers as blew the tabs open on the original one and a brand new one. They don’t like 24psi too much.

 

 

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You could get a Red STI intercooler to throttle body hose. Looks OEM.

 

What about 3D printing your turbo to airbox hose out of some decent plastic? Could look OEM and less likely to absorb heat, compared to alloy.

 

You could paint the top of the Radiator black to look OEM.

 

Just some quick ideas that came to mind. I like the idea of stock looking engine bays.

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2 hours ago, ginganinja said:

You could get a Red STI intercooler to throttle body hose. Looks OEM.

 

What about 3D printing your turbo to airbox hose out of some decent plastic? Could look OEM and less likely to absorb heat, compared to alloy.

 

You could paint the top of the Radiator black to look OEM.

 

Just some quick ideas that came to mind. I like the idea of stock looking engine bays.

Thanks.
 

3D printing I like that idea, they have that carbon fibre fibres stuff like my HANS device is made out of now too.

 

Yeah red Sti joiner to intercooler was on the list but can the stock one hold 32psi. I tried to find the pink one last time and they had bright red only.

 

Didnt think about painting rad top, thought had thought of air diverted plates.

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  • 3 months later...

So getting pretty over this now.

 

earlier found hoses rubbing on things, latest was drivers side head breather kinked almost closed from routing and over tighten cable ties.

 

car still has minor issue with engine and reasons given are all over the place depending on who answers the phone or question.
 

ECU doesn’t support functions due to table limits

Been told turbo is the issue and 2 in 12 new turbos have seal leaks.

 

Still has hunting idle and rough spots at 1200 and 3k rpm 

 

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6 hours ago, Gripless said:

So getting pretty over this now.

 

earlier found hoses rubbing on things, latest was drivers side head breather kinked almost closed from routing and over tighten cable ties.

 

car still has minor issue with engine and reasons given are all over the place depending on who answers the phone or question.
 

ECU doesn’t support functions due to table limits

Been told turbo is the issue and 2 in 12 new turbos have seal leaks.

 

Still has hunting idle and rough spots at 1200 and 3k rpm 

 


The annoying part for you is everything except the turbo was done by them so it's an easy way out to blame the turbo even if it is a common issue. 

I still think the table limit isn't quite right unless you've actually talked to Link? Surely the plugin is based upon a fully capable ECU so it may just need thing repurposed that are no longer used to get everything that is needed. 

Easiest way to progress is to get a can dash like the canchecked one I've got then run some extra sensors to it for monitoring, you've realistically got no idea what turbo oil pressure is doing without one

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok after rechecking everything 

3 issues for the turbo and oil draining.

 

1) turbo drain is 45 degree back and sideways tube. It’s welded 10cm down to make another45 degree bend.

 The reason is bends so much is the water line to turbo is in the way.

 

2) The water in out to turbo is on the same side which according to page 49ish of the BW tech guide is a big no no and water can’t circulate


3) AOS drain to crankcase has a droop that could be pooling oil and not free draining back. This was on top of the other head line that previously had cables ties holding them pulled tight enough to kink the line pretty much closed. The AOS may need to be mounted higher and the top fitting change from a 180 to 90 to give it more clearance.

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20 hours ago, Gripless said:

2) The water in out to turbo is on the same side which according to page 49ish of the BW tech guide is a big no no and water can’t circulate

 

bruh, lol

 

I mean come on.

 

 

Re. the oil drain bits, AFAIK due to the tiny inlet restrictor built into the bearing housing these don't need to drain that much? The tech manual seems to think a fitting with ~0.4" bore into a 1/2" drain line is adequate.

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1 hour ago, boon said:

 

bruh, lol

 

I mean come on.

 

 

Re. the oil drain bits, AFAIK due to the tiny inlet restrictor built into the bearing housing these don't need to drain that much? The tech manual seems to think a fitting with ~0.4" bore into a 1/2" drain line is adequate.

Sure it sounds all good. but given it’s pushing oil through the seals and smoking a lot at idle, either it’s not draining or the crankcase pressure is getting high.


Water line seems to be the reason the drain is angled and has extra welded joints. 
 

Maybe it’s just the AOS lines not being able to drain.
 

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2 hours ago, boon said:

 

bruh, lol

 

I mean come on.

 

 

Re. the oil drain bits, AFAIK due to the tiny inlet restrictor built into the bearing housing these don't need to drain that much? The tech manual seems to think a fitting with ~0.4" bore into a 1/2" drain line is adequate.


it’ll have some cooling but without crossing over the core and short cycling it won’t be as effective as it could be. Plus if your paying big money for a shop to do it you’d expect them to atleast do it the way it is supposed to be. 
 
Common sense would say that with tiny inlet restrictors the drain ‘should’ be perfectly fine with something only slightly bigger but in reality it doesn’t seem to work out like that. I’ve had thorough talks with Alltech about it and they even think 5/8 ID hose is on the small size and that 3/4 is the correct way to go. 

 

Pretty sure even borg warner have come out and said that the small bore thread in option with small hose won’t often be enough. 
 

I’ve got a new cartridge for mine coming next year with the intention of proving once and for all whether the turbo is damaged somewhat or whether it is feed/drain related

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