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Project Lambda Tuning for BH5 RevB...?!


keeweechris

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What do you make of this? I contacted Project Lambda Tuning to ask if their products were compatible with my 1999 RevB GTB. They said yes, and that it was able to reflash the ECU. Come again? I thought RevB's were not reflashable?

 

"To tune your ECU, you will need to purchase our Bluetooth Tuner and an ECU license here:  https://lambdatuning.com/product/tuner/. It is capable of reflashing your ECU through the OBD port. This is not a temporary chip or piggyback module that has to 'trick' the ECU into running differently."

 

Is he on drugs, or is this actually possible?

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Previously they have been tunable with some very specific hardware/software which very few tuners bothered with. There was a guy who did it in NZ as a bit of a side gig I believe but gave it up a few years ago to spend more time with family?

 

TBH I wasn't even aware later ones could be tuned with a bluetooth adaptor so not sure what to make of that. Seems super risky trying to flash over a bluetooth connection. Live tuning sounds even more risky.

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Been chatting to a RevB owner in Canada who used one of these (and also got them to dyno it). Says it works beautifully.

 

Lambda say they have a Stage-1 base map, that they will throw in too, which does nice things like bringing boost on earlier, upping primary power a bit, and smoothing out VOD. https://lambdatuning.com/2016/12/18/jdm-legacy-bebh-base-maps/

 

The thing I like is the ability to either E-tune it, or take to a tuner. All the hardware is there. The interface looks like RomRaider, which i like and have used for my WRX.

 

$350USD + $30 shipping, which is about $600NZD.

Edited by keeweechris
got cost wrong
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19 minutes ago, SpeedySub said:

If you do this keep us updated, I have a friend who could be interested in one of these

Will do. I'll probably place an order today. Seems like a) They have exactly the same cars over there, and it works, b) they have stage1 base maps free of charge, and c) can do all the cool things ecuflash/romraider/learningview does, ie read, log, and flash. Can't see any downside, and should be easy for a NZ tuner to use if I ever went down that path. ProjLambda also will check logs after reflash, just to check nothing is too messed up. He said they'd do E-tuning too, for extra $$$ of course, but might be a good option.

 

I figure their 94RON petrol is close enough to our 95RON. I don't really want to tune for 98 exclusively anyway.

Edited by keeweechris
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Just now, keeweechris said:

Haha, ok, will think about that.

 

"Ok here's your new tune, flash that and then go do some logging"

"Right, went for a drive, here's the log file"

"Oh yes, very nice, you can see just here where it started to knock furiously and smashed the bottom end bearing to little pieces"

"Cool, thanks"

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Check that RON assumption before running (our 98 is USA ~93 & I doubt they'd do a performance tuned map on less than their best fuel)

Take it to a tuner before driving hard or get a wide band, build some budget knock ears & watch a few videos on AFR and knock sounds to know enough that it's not running lean and knocking.

 

 

 

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17 minutes ago, pl0x said:

Check that RON assumption before running (our 98 is USA ~93 & I doubt they'd do a performance tuned map on less than their best fuel)

Take it to a tuner before driving hard or get a wide band, build some budget knock ears & watch a few videos on AFR and knock sounds to know enough that it's not running lean and knocking.

 

 

 

OK, will do. Would it be good enough just to check the IAM/retardation values during a pull? Or is the factory knock sensor not good enough?

 

Good spotting, cheers! ProjLambda do 91 and 94 (AKI) base maps. https://lambdatuning.com/2016/12/18/jdm-legacy-bebh-base-maps/ This translates into 95 and 98 (RON), according to https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating

I'll use the "91" map to start with I think, but the "94" would be fun to play with on 98RON.

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50 minutes ago, keeweechris said:

OK, will do. Would it be good enough just to check the IAM/retardation values during a pull? Or is the factory knock sensor not good enough?

I wouldn't be doing full pulls then checking knock (refer boon's scenario), rather progressively rev higher and under more load checking knock during/in between.

I think the factory knock sensor is ok.

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Theres lots of good info on tuning on the web and youtube, even if its not the exact engine, usually the principles don't change.

Incremental steps in tuning, got to get everything happy and in the right parameters before doing any pulls and logging, and see if you can get some dyno time.

What so many Youtube videos (that Ive seen anyway)  lack is showing the setup of the base map, even an off the shelf map will need checking and maybe tweeking before the car runs well enough to do any sort of pull.

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Thanks guys, good advice.

 

So my plan will be to install the ProjLambda 91 base map, then carefully and progressively log runs then check for any knock detection (through the ECU IAM values). If I get to full-noise with no knock, I'm safe.

 

Based on the fact that it's a base map and used by them as a tuning starting point for this exact model/revision of car, I'm fairly confident it will be ok. But totally hear you, be conservative at first.

 

BTW, I'm just looking for mild gains and better driveability from stock for relatively little coin, not full-on performance. I think this is a good foundation, and means I can go harder later if I want, with bigger mods and dyno tune. TBH, I can't see that happening though... I'm 40, got kids, and this is the family wagon.

 

I did all this years ago with my other car, a stock 2006 nz new WRX (2.5L manual). RomRaider plus a random dudes (Gabedude) base map on the RR forums. Maybe I got lucky, but it's been about 6 years now and has transformed the car. No knock detected.

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Yeah to be fair if you're just flashing a "this is for a stock motor" kinda tune you should be more or less OK, there's so much margin built into these motors that you're likely to still be well within the safe zone - and it sounds like you're going to do it fairly conservatively.

 

I mean realistically, look how many of these things are getting around with a boost tap and a poddy getting caned on 91 octane completely un-tuned.

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  • 2 months later...
On 11/12/2019 at 4:49 PM, keeweechris said:

What do you make of this? I contacted Project Lambda Tuning to ask if their products were compatible with my 1999 RevB GTB. They said yes, and that it was able to reflash the ECU. Come again? I thought RevB's were not reflashable?

 

"To tune your ECU, you will need to purchase our Bluetooth Tuner and an ECU license here:  https://lambdatuning.com/product/tuner/. It is capable of reflashing your ECU through the OBD port. This is not a temporary chip or piggyback module that has to 'trick' the ECU into running differently."

 

Is he on drugs, or is this actually possible?

 

Hey, Have you got this underway ?

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

ProjectLambda: I give them credit + they know legacies in and out, they have helped to bring my built to live for BE5-RevA:

1. Water-meth injection tune.

2. Safe (Hose 10 mod)

3. 2-step launch control.

4. Extending speed limit to 260kph

5. VF26/VF27 mapping for 1.4 bars - VF26 is another breed of Turbo, I think no IHI series for Legacy beats it.

6. Decel pops

7. etc

 

tbUm3El.jpg

 

frr02dK.jpg

Edited by dunky
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