2010 A Line STI Mod list - Advice

[IgnobleSTI]

Hello everyone !

 

I have a 2010 JDM A Line STI that I am planning on modding for a nice daily driver and the occassional track days.

 

I'm aiming for around 320 - 330whp and was wondering if the mod list I have is everything I need, and wanting to check if anyone has any brands they recommend vs what I have listed etc.

 

Also, I'm deciding on where to tune it. I've used WRC Developments before and it is close to home but thinking of going PBMS. It is 7 hrs away from me though so i'd have to be worth the drive compared to other more local tuners around the lower north island.

 

Here is the mod list I'm looking at:

 

Engine / Turbo / Supporting Mods:

• Catted Downpipe – Invidia Hi-Flow
• Up-Pipe – Recommended (brand TBD)
• Verticooler TMIC – Process West OR ETS
• Cold Air Intake – ETS Titanium CAI
• *Grimmspeed Electronic Boost Control Solenoid (EBCS)
• NGK One-Step Colder Spark Plugs
• AEM 340 Fuel Pump

Drivetrain / Transmission:

• TCU Tune
• IAG Street Series Engine Mounts
• IAG Street Series Transmission Mounts

ECU / Tuning:

• Custom ECU Tune – Possum Bourne Motorsport (PBMS)
• Wideband O2 Sensor – AEM X-Series preferred

---

🧊 Cooling / Longevity / Safety:

• Oil Catch Can or AOS – IAG Comp recommended
• Upgraded Radiator – Koyorad or Mishimoto (leaning Koyorad)
• Fluidampr Crank Pulley
• Cylinder 4 Cooling Mod (Optional but smart for long-term heat control)

 

Also, I've heard of TCU tuning for the autos that make them A LOT smoother and responsive etc so wondering where I can get that done :).

[Andy_Mac]

Not sure on many places doing TCU tuning besides probably CCT/An Lal in Auckland.
 

For general tuning there’s no real reason to go all the way up to Auckland. Prestige in Welly and DTech in Tauranga would give the same results and are half as far away if you’re really not keen to use WRC Developments again. 
 

Mod list looks pretty good. 

-For engine mounts I’d personally go a bit softer, all those shackle style ones promise to be comfortable but really aren’t.

For your power needs I’d be going with new STI Group N for engine, trans and trans subframe cushion bushes but it is a bit of personal preference aswell, assuming of course parts for the auto’s aren’t completely different. 
 

-Wouldn’t bother doing just an uppipe. Far better off going to a full equal length manifold/uppipe setup. 
-Definitely go Koyo or Mishi radiator. 
-For boost solenoid, a generic MAC valve is all it needs to be. Most tuners will sell them way way cheaper than a Grimmspeed one and are essentially the same. 
-Grab a silicone turbo inlet too since the factory ones are usually pretty stuffed by this age.
-I’ve got a Radium AOS for sale if that’s any interest over the IAG 

 

[Gripless]

Mostly what Andy said. No point in going for a tune outside your area unless you are getting lots of other work done to make big power. Plus tweaks for drivability don’t involve more travel.

 

FYI aren’t verticooler are wrx plastic intake only, not the alloy sti one. The plastic intake makes the throttle sit lower.

 

I was told not to do the cooling mod as while it cools better it’s just more failure than the plugged hole.

 

Cold air intake is a looks mod., just remove the resonator underneath the factory. Then run a pipe from the bottom hole where the resonator was to by the front fog light. 
 

is there any point to uppipe and headers for a single scroll auto? My factory twin scroll was making all the boost it could with downpipe alone. It just could flow enough at higher rpm for more the 15-17psi.

[Andy_Mac]

Yea only plastic manifold for verticooler so that rules that out without a manifold swap. 
 

Definitely no point upgrading with a twin scroll setup but I’d always thought the older single scroll design was a bit lacking. Supposedly the crossover tube is quite small and restrictive. Probably won’t make much more power going aftermarket at this level but can at least transition to equal length. 

[IgnobleSTI]

15 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:

Not sure on many places doing TCU tuning besides probably CCT/An Lal in Auckland.
 

For general tuning there’s no real reason to go all the way up to Auckland. Prestige in Welly and DTech in Tauranga would give the same results and are half as far away if you’re really not keen to use WRC Developments again. 
 

Mod list looks pretty good. 

-For engine mounts I’d personally go a bit softer, all those shackle style ones promise to be comfortable but really aren’t.

For your power needs I’d be going with new STI Group N for engine, trans and trans subframe cushion bushes but it is a bit of personal preference aswell, assuming of course parts for the auto’s aren’t completely different. 
 

-Wouldn’t bother doing just an uppipe. Far better off going to a full equal length manifold/uppipe setup. 
-Definitely go Koyo or Mishi radiator. 
-For boost solenoid, a generic MAC valve is all it needs to be. Most tuners will sell them way way cheaper than a Grimmspeed one and are essentially the same. 
-Grab a silicone turbo inlet too since the factory ones are usually pretty stuffed by this age.
-I’ve got a Radium AOS for sale if that’s any interest over the IAG 

 

 

I didn't want to specifically avoid WRC Graham was awesome but I just got told my previous tune was "grossly overstated." It was a WRX on TD04 with Turboback exhaust and tune running "307bhp" which I was told was extremely high reading etc. I then had some comments on his "tuning methods."

 

I got my previous 350z done at Prestige and while amazing tuning they are VERY pricey compared to other places.

 

D Tech is an option.

 

Wow Koyo has been recommended twice now for radiator so will definitely go with that.

 

A few other changes I've been told

 

 - Go with Cobb or Grimmspeed DP not invidia
 - ETS Intake (looking at this one https://www.speedscience.co.nz/products/extreme-turbo-systems-08-14-subaru-sti-intake-wrinkle-black?variant=39519332466787)

 - Apparantly no need for 1 step colder plugs

 - A few peeople have said go to ELH but I really want to stay UEL. Any UEL upgrades ?

 - I've also been told to go with 1050 injectors as a safety net to

 - Oh yes I've heard of group N before I'll go with those instead

[IgnobleSTI]

12 hours ago, Gripless said:

Mostly what Andy said. No point in going for a tune outside your area unless you are getting lots of other work done to make big power. Plus tweaks for drivability don’t involve more travel.

 

FYI aren’t verticooler are wrx plastic intake only, not the alloy sti one. The plastic intake makes the throttle sit lower.

 

I was told not to do the cooling mod as while it cools better it’s just more failure than the plugged hole.

 

Cold air intake is a looks mod., just remove the resonator underneath the factory. Then run a pipe from the bottom hole where the resonator was to by the front fog light. 
 

is there any point to uppipe and headers for a single scroll auto? My factory twin scroll was making all the boost it could with downpipe alone. It just could flow enough at higher rpm for more the 15-17psi.

 

Ah so is the ETS Intake a waste of time? Is running a pipe down to the fog area a higher risk for water ingress/hydrolocking?

 

Oh so stay way from Verticooler and just get the standard TMIC?

 

Yeah I heard the cylinder 4 cooling mod isn't actually worth it as it can actually cause other issue.

[Andy_Mac]

307bhp probably isn’t that ambitious for some TD04’s. Remember everyone else out there uses wheel hp/kw rather than flywheel/bhp like he does which trips some people up when you start talking numbers. 
 

Not fully clued up on the Grimmspeed and Cobb DP’s but know Invidia make RHD specific ones so might find clearance around the steering knuckle is still better with Invidia

 

DTech prices will be similar to Prestige but in my biased opinion they’re top tier and give a heap of uncharged support when needed

[IgnobleSTI]

2 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:

307bhp probably isn’t that ambitious for some TD04’s. Remember everyone else out there uses wheel hp/kw rather than flywheel/bhp like he does which trips some people up when you start talking numbers. 
 

Not fully clued up on the Grimmspeed and Cobb DP’s but know Invidia make RHD specific ones so might find clearance around the steering knuckle is still better with Invidia

 

DTech prices will be similar to Prestige but in my biased opinion they’re top tier and give a heap of uncharged support when needed

 

AH ok if that is the case I may just stick to WRC as he is only 1.5 hrs away from me so it is MUCH easier to get to him !

 

Oh yeah ! I didn't think about that Ill do some research on the Downpipes. Sucks that they are like 1,400 dollars for a high flow cat DP.

 

Any UEL upgrades as I don't want to go ELH?

And I'm not unsure of doing the ETS CAI or just sticking with stock

 

 

[Gripless]

1 hour ago, IgnobleSTI said:

 

Ah so is the ETS Intake a waste of time? Is running a pipe down to the fog area a higher risk for water ingress/hydrolocking?

 

Oh so stay way from Verticooler and just get the standard TMIC?

 

Yeah I heard the cylinder 4 cooling mod isn't actually worth it as it can actually cause other issue.

As long as you have two air paths one low and one high then there isn’t enough vacuum to lift water. Maybe if you drove into a flood at high speed you’d get water up to the air box, but you’d have massive front damage hitting 20-30cm deep water at speed.

 

for downpipe just make sure it works with the auto, pretty sure the case is larger or sticks out in different places.

[boon]

Factory headers have tons of flow for what you're looking to do. Unsure if you have a catted up-pipe but if you do I'd look to replace that, otherwise the factory one is fine. Rest of the mod list makes good sense and is a sensible starting point.

 

As for injectors, assuming you're talking something quality like ID1050's then you'll be into that for a grand.

 

Elephant in the room is power level. I don't see an upgraded turbo anywhere in your list; I have never seen more than 240wkw (320whp) out of a factory Subaru turbo on pump gas, ever. We squeezed 231wkw out of a VF34 on mine and that was pretty much tapped out, and it was with a manual transmission that will have less drivetrain loss than your auto will. I think you'll be doing really, really well if you hit 300whp on an "honest" dyno.

 

 

[IgnobleSTI]

16 minutes ago, boon said:

Factory headers have tons of flow for what you're looking to do. Unsure if you have a catted up-pipe but if you do I'd look to replace that, otherwise the factory one is fine. Rest of the mod list makes good sense and is a sensible starting point.

 

As for injectors, assuming you're talking something quality like ID1050's then you'll be into that for a grand.

 

Elephant in the room is power level. I don't see an upgraded turbo anywhere in your list; I have never seen more than 240wkw (320whp) out of a factory Subaru turbo on pump gas, ever. We squeezed 231wkw out of a VF34 on mine and that was pretty much tapped out, and it was with a manual transmission that will have less drivetrain loss than your auto will. I think you'll be doing really, really well if you hit 300whp on an "honest" dyno.

 

 

 

Hey Boon

 

Thanks for the reply !

 

I'll check on the uppipe I am unsure if it is catted.

 

Ahh ok I didn't think I needed to upgrade the turbo

I was following this guide: And he didn't have an upgraded turbo even at the 325 - 400whp build point although I would have definitely expected one around 350whp plus.

 

I thought 320whp give or take would have been good on the stock turbo.

 

Should I go with upgraded turbo and injectors or stick to stock turbo/injectors and aim for 300whp?

 

[boon]

Some random advice, that guide is pretty good but you have to take everything from the US with a grain of salt, they have some dynos/tuners in that part of the world that are doing crimes against maths/physics/science to give people silly numbers.

 

The 325-400hp part of that guide very definitely lists upgraded turbos. 

Quote

• Grimmspeed BB500, Blouch 1.5 8cm 2.4 or Cobb/Blouch 20G. (I recommend only ball bearing cartridges. They are better spool wise & are better performance wise imo. Oil lines should be provided. Keep in mind, most of these BB Cartridges are from Garrett. Garrett lasts longer, but falls off top end unless you know what you're doing. Blouch 2.5 10cm 3 inch a great option here.)

 

300whp is a relatively "safe" power level on the EJ2x7 in stock form. If you go to an upgraded turbo/injectors then to make it worthwhile you're really chasing closer to 400whp, and then the slippery slope of upgrades really begins.

 

300whp is also really pretty rapid in these cars. 350+ is largely unusable on the street unless you hate your drivers license and wish to donate it to a friendly Policeman. Anything north of that is only really useful on a track.

 

[Gripless]

Just do the silicone intake, intercooler and downpipe with tune. As long as you don’t have a uppipe cat.

The main things for trackday are good tires and brake fluid. The only other thing is sump baffling and AoS or catch can.

Otherwise get a drop in (tomei etc) or stock modified turbo.

After that it’s really 90% less bang for buck.

Edited July 29, 2025 by Gripless

[IgnobleSTI]

18 hours ago, boon said:

Some random advice, that guide is pretty good but you have to take everything from the US with a grain of salt, they have some dynos/tuners in that part of the world that are doing crimes against maths/physics/science to give people silly numbers.

 

The 325-400hp part of that guide very definitely lists upgraded turbos. 

 

300whp is a relatively "safe" power level on the EJ2x7 in stock form. If you go to an upgraded turbo/injectors then to make it worthwhile you're really chasing closer to 400whp, and then the slippery slope of upgrades really begins.

 

300whp is also really pretty rapid in these cars. 350+ is largely unusable on the street unless you hate your drivers license and wish to donate it to a friendly Policeman. Anything north of that is only really useful on a track.

 

 

Oh s*** totally missed the turbo on the list ! Haha I thought it didn't make sense when I read it.

 

Brilliant I'll shoot for the 300whp mark. I wont chase numbers specifically I'll just do the upgrades for that level of power and see where I end up.

 

SO just to confirm, is this the only things I need?

 

 - Downpipe
 - Intercooler

 - AOS

 - Fuel Pump

 

Exclude:

 

 - injectors
 - Radiator

 - Air Intake

 - Headers

 - Upipe (unless catted)

14 hours ago, Gripless said:

Just do the silicone intake, intercooler and downpipe with tune. As long as you don’t have a uppipe cat.

The main things for trackday are good tires and brake fluid. The only other thing is sump baffling and AoS or catch can.

Otherwise get a drop in (tomei etc) or stock modified turbo.

After that it’s really 90% less bang for buck.

 

Amazing thanks for the help ! I'll go that route for now.

 

Should I also get an oil pickup at least or the full Killer B pan, baffle, pickup kit?

 

Also Silicone intake is a mod I have not come across in many lists which brand etc should I go for ?

Edited July 29, 2025 by IgnobleSTI

[TNHSTI]

I tuned my 2010 A-line, 

 

I had just an Intake, 3 port boost solenoid, fuel pump and it made 214 kw at the wheels, this was with SAS in chch

 

I was told if wanting more power than this you'd need a trans cooler especially for the Auto so that might be worth thinking about if going for big power 

[IgnobleSTI]

2 hours ago, TNHSTI said:

I tuned my 2010 A-line, 

 

I had just an Intake, 3 port boost solenoid, fuel pump and it made 214 kw at the wheels, this was with SAS in chch

 

I was told if wanting more power than this you'd need a trans cooler especially for the Auto so that might be worth thinking about if going for big power 

 

Ahh Im ideally wanting somewhere between 300 - 320whp. I don't want 280whp I definitely want a minimum TRUE 300whp.

 

DId you have a High flow downpipe?

[TNHSTI]

7 minutes ago, IgnobleSTI said:

 

Ahh Im ideally wanting somewhere between 300 - 320whp. I don't want 280whp I definitely want a minimum TRUE 300whp.

 

DId you have a High flow downpipe?

 

Yeah fair enough, No I just gutted the stock downpipe in that instance into an Xforce 3" catback

[boon]

Exclude injectors, assuming you have 565cc ones they'll be fine for that power level.

I would say definitely do the radiator, mine really struggled with heat on the dyno with the factory radiator, we put a cheap alloy one in there and it was fine until I went chasing power again. I would do a Koyorad if I did it all again, still plan to at some point.

 

I think a silicon intake is a worthwhile mod, the factory one is kinda awful. There's a few options, just get something branded not some bingbong Temu s*** as it will fall apart.

[IgnobleSTI]

1 hour ago, boon said:

Exclude injectors, assuming you have 565cc ones they'll be fine for that power level.

I would say definitely do the radiator, mine really struggled with heat on the dyno with the factory radiator, we put a cheap alloy one in there and it was fine until I went chasing power again. I would do a Koyorad if I did it all again, still plan to at some point.

 

I think a silicon intake is a worthwhile mod, the factory one is kinda awful. There's a few options, just get something branded not some bingbong Temu s*** as it will fall apart.

 

Brilliant

 

I'll go with

 

Invidia High Flow Downpipe

Koyo Radiator

ETS TMIC

Silicone Intake Pipe

AEM 340lph Fuel Pump
AOS - IAG or similar

[Rossobianconero]

20 hours ago, Gripless said:

Just do the silicone intake, intercooler and downpipe with tune. As long as you don’t have a uppipe cat.

The main things for trackday are good tires and brake fluid. The only other thing is sump baffling and AoS or catch can.

Otherwise get a drop in (tomei etc) or stock modified turbo.

After that it’s really 90% less bang for buck.

 

Thats a good guideline, on our dyno (PBMS) GRB 6speed with the stock turbo would make anything from 220kw-235kw (295whp-315whp), auto is a different story, they make 200-220kw (268whp-295whp), there is sooooo many factors on what will actually make on the dyno, sticky tires, bigger heavier wheels, all of that will read lower on a roller dyno. The highest GRB that I have seen here with the stock turbo make 240-245kw, but one of the biggest differences, is that it was running 17" lightweight wheels, so the engine may be making the same as any other GRB but because of the wheels, it goes better, and the roller dyno show you that. I wouldn't be thinking about a number, I know that we live and die for the scale, the dyno, the 1/4 time, etc, but just focus on the experience, the fun on modding your car, and the driving pleasure of the results... best bang for buck is going to be, downpipe, turbo inlet, then maybe catback? or catback and CAI in the same place? to be honest at that point probably is going to be better with an aftermarket ECU. If you want to go to the track and keep it safe, probably a good oilsump is the best mod, and then just don't push lap after lap because the oil temperature is going to go through the roof and then... knock knock knock... rod bearing failure. Do not get me wrong, you can go to the track and have fun, but you just have to be conscience of a few things to keep it fun and reliable. As the tuner of PBMS, I would love to tune your car, but if anyone ask me, I will always recommend a local tuner (if there is a good one around), is just like your doctor, you don't want to have to travel 3-4 or whatever how many hours to see it, and less there is a good reason to choice that doctor to start with. 

 

On the sti everything max out at the same time, turbo and fuel system, so if you are not going with a bigger aftermarket turbo, stock injectors and more than enough. Your car with a downpipe and a tune is going to be fun, and a massive difference to the stock car, I am sure you are going to be happy with that, if you go turbo inlet, choice the bigger you can find for your application.  

[TNHSTI]

Great advice from @Rossobianconero I've had a number of Subies and had them all tuned, you can so easily get caught up with a dyno number your chasing but at the end of the day whether it was 210kw or 225kw your still going to enjoy it probably just the same

 

As I've got older and probably still no wiser lol I like to focus a bit more on how the car handles like making sure the car has decent rubber etc. having power is great but no sense in having heaps if you cant use it and enjoy it properly 

[Gripless]

I don’t care much for brand named silicone parts as they are likely all the same factory or just more money for the name.

 

You’ll need a trans cooler with the new radiator as the stock one has the cooler built into it. Just get one with built in barbs, don’t waste money on fittings etc. a forester one maybe two would be an option.

 

For the sump get a factory one modified. After that RCM has a rubber fitting to stop dents blocking the pickup. There is also a baffle plate that sits between the sump and block that just bolts in with the modified sump or stock one.

https://rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk/products/rcm-oil-pickup-anti-surge-adaptor

https://rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk/products/rcm-oil-sump-pan-baffle-plate
for NZ sales try  https://jmms.co.nz ClubSub did a large group buy a few years ago.

[IgnobleSTI]

On 30/07/2025 at 3:55 PM, Rossobianconero said:

 

Thats a good guideline, on our dyno (PBMS) GRB 6speed with the stock turbo would make anything from 220kw-235kw (295whp-315whp), auto is a different story, they make 200-220kw (268whp-295whp), there is sooooo many factors on what will actually make on the dyno, sticky tires, bigger heavier wheels, all of that will read lower on a roller dyno. The highest GRB that I have seen here with the stock turbo make 240-245kw, but one of the biggest differences, is that it was running 17" lightweight wheels, so the engine may be making the same as any other GRB but because of the wheels, it goes better, and the roller dyno show you that. I wouldn't be thinking about a number, I know that we live and die for the scale, the dyno, the 1/4 time, etc, but just focus on the experience, the fun on modding your car, and the driving pleasure of the results... best bang for buck is going to be, downpipe, turbo inlet, then maybe catback? or catback and CAI in the same place? to be honest at that point probably is going to be better with an aftermarket ECU. If you want to go to the track and keep it safe, probably a good oilsump is the best mod, and then just don't push lap after lap because the oil temperature is going to go through the roof and then... knock knock knock... rod bearing failure. Do not get me wrong, you can go to the track and have fun, but you just have to be conscience of a few things to keep it fun and reliable. As the tuner of PBMS, I would love to tune your car, but if anyone ask me, I will always recommend a local tuner (if there is a good one around), is just like your doctor, you don't want to have to travel 3-4 or whatever how many hours to see it, and less there is a good reason to choice that doctor to start with. 

 

On the sti everything max out at the same time, turbo and fuel system, so if you are not going with a bigger aftermarket turbo, stock injectors and more than enough. Your car with a downpipe and a tune is going to be fun, and a massive difference to the stock car, I am sure you are going to be happy with that, if you go turbo inlet, choice the bigger you can find for your application.  

 

Yeah bro, this honestly lines up with a lot of what I've been researching and chatting with others about too.

I'm in an A Line STI so I know the auto reads a bit lower. Was originally aiming for around 320whp, but realistically on PBMS's dyno I'm expecting closer to 210 to 220kw with my setup. I’ve decided not to chase a specific number anymore, it’s more about reliability, fun, and response. Appreciate the reminder there.

I’m already locking in:

• Downpipe (likely going with a PPD unit to save a bit unless I find a sharp price on an Invidia)

• Perrin turbo inlet

• ETS TMIC

• Koyo radiator and baffled sump for track reliability

• Colder plugs, Cobb 3 port, and tune

Not bothering with injectors since I’m staying stock turbo. Makes sense what you said about everything maxing out at the same time.

Also love the insight on wheels. Hadn’t fully appreciated how much that affects the dyno read and response. I’m running Work S1Ps, so not exactly lightweight 😂

 

Appreciate your honesty around tuning too. I’m out of town so I’m considering PBMS mostly because I trust your knowledge, but I’ll definitely weigh it up with someone more local if they’re solid.

Keen as for this next stage. Car’s already a blast stock, but I want it to really wake up while keeping it healthy.

---

Let me know if you want this shortened or made even more casual.

On 30/07/2025 at 5:38 PM, Gripless said:

I don’t care much for brand named silicone parts as they are likely all the same factory or just more money for the name.

 

You’ll need a trans cooler with the new radiator as the stock one has the cooler built into it. Just get one with built in barbs, don’t waste money on fittings etc. a forester one maybe two would be an option.

 

For the sump get a factory one modified. After that RCM has a rubber fitting to stop dents blocking the pickup. There is also a baffle plate that sits between the sump and block that just bolts in with the modified sump or stock one.

https://rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk/products/rcm-oil-pickup-anti-surge-adaptor

https://rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk/products/rcm-oil-sump-pan-baffle-plate
for NZ sales try  https://jmms.co.nz ClubSub did a large group buy a few years ago.

 

Thanks man! What Trans cooler pairs well with the Koyo?

On 30/07/2025 at 4:51 PM, TNHSTI said:

Great advice from @Rossobianconero I've had a number of Subies and had them all tuned, you can so easily get caught up with a dyno number your chasing but at the end of the day whether it was 210kw or 225kw your still going to enjoy it probably just the same

 

As I've got older and probably still no wiser lol I like to focus a bit more on how the car handles like making sure the car has decent rubber etc. having power is great but no sense in having heaps if you cant use it and enjoy it properly 

 

Yeah that is true ! My previous cars were all 250whp AFTER tuning and I wanted more power so I really felt like chasing that 300 - 330whp.

[Gripless]

Just remember your car is likely only 175wkw now so 210wkw is a noticeable gain. My manual 2L was only 185wkw stock tuned with rebuild engine.

Most coolers work fine but, Ive always used the tube and fin single pass type coolers. like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006803498379.html

Just find a size big enough that you can P clamp to the lower rad support and maybe the center or side supports.

They are low density fins so don’t block much flow so more air goes through them rather than around. Plus they have the lowest restriction to flow for the gearbox pump. The pipes are reasonably thick so don’t get hole as often from stones or rubbish hitting them. I always put in sideways with inlet at the bottom and the out at top so the bubbles bleed out upwards and nothing gets caught in the loops.

 Just remember a cheap set of 17” wheels and secondhand semislicks will likely make more difference on track than those power upgrades.

I always get motul 660 brake fluid as late braking can push temps very high with smaller brakes.

[ginganinja]

Aftermarket top mount isn't necessary. I am making 270kw with a Stock VAB STI top mount intercooler. Tuner said IAT's dropped 15 degrees when I swapped to this from a process west one. 

 

If you are out flowing a Stock STI top mount, you are better off going to a front mount, before considering any aftermarket top mount.