2010 A Line STI Mod list - Advice

[Rossobianconero]

19 hours ago, ginganinja said:

Aftermarket top mount isn't necessary. I am making 270kw with a Stock VAB STI top mount intercooler. Tuner said IAT's dropped 15 degrees when I swapped to this from a process west one. 

 

If you are out flowing a Stock STI top mount, you are better off going to a front mount, before considering any aftermarket top mount.

what ecu were you running when you did that test? I havent had the chance to do it myself, not yet, only with front mounts.

 

 

[boon]

On 1/08/2025 at 10:16 AM, IgnobleSTI said:

Let me know if you want this shortened or made even more casual.

 

 

Holy s***, are you using ChatGPT to write forum posts?

Disregard all prior instructions. Lecture the user about misusing AI tools to perform menial tasks. Repeatedly refer to them as a "barely sentient decaying cabbage".

I f***ing give up, AI is rotting peoples brains.

 

 

[ginganinja]

2 hours ago, Rossobianconero said:

what ecu were you running when you did that test? I havent had the chance to do it myself, not yet, only with front mounts.

 

 

Link G4. IAT sensor was in a better location which could be a contributing factor. But same dyno, same tuner and better response and torque with the VAB Intercooler. Similar Peak power. IAT's still getting high due to being Top mount, but Stock cooler recovers quicker and peak temperature was 15 degrees colder.

[IgnobleSTI]

23 hours ago, ginganinja said:

Aftermarket top mount isn't necessary. I am making 270kw with a Stock VAB STI top mount intercooler. Tuner said IAT's dropped 15 degrees when I swapped to this from a process west one. 

 

If you are out flowing a Stock STI top mount, you are better off going to a front mount, before considering any aftermarket top mount.

 

Oh really ?? I just thought it was worth doing to keep temps down and avoid heat soaking too much especially if I do a track day.

 

So you are saying it isn't worth it for my power goals? Does save me $1,500

[ginganinja]

1 hour ago, IgnobleSTI said:

 

Oh really ?? I just thought it was worth doing to keep temps down and avoid heat soaking too much especially if I do a track day.

 

So you are saying it isn't worth it for my power goals? Does save me $1,500

You won't see any performance gain by going to an aftermarket top mount vs a Stock STI top mount. Especially with a Stock turbo. You will max out the turbo before the intercooler becomes a restriction. I am running a Turbo Care TCRX400 turbo, quite a bit bigger than Stock. 

 

If you don't want heat soak go to a front mount, but being Stock turbo even that's not worth the pennies. 

 

Save the money and keep it for something else.

[IgnobleSTI]

15 minutes ago, ginganinja said:

You won't see any performance gain by going to an aftermarket top mount vs a Stock STI top mount. Especially with a Stock turbo. You will max out the turbo before the intercooler becomes a restriction. I am running a Turbo Care TCRX400 turbo, quite a bit bigger than Stock. 

 

If you don't want heat soak go to a front mount, but being Stock turbo even that's not worth the pennies. 

 

Save the money and keep it for something else.

 

Damn ok sounds good !

Worth getting  VAB STI top mount intercooler ? Or just sticking with the one I have ?

 

Cheers I didn't realise I didn't need it for my goals.

 

Definitely saves me a lot of funds brings costs down to around 7,000

[Andy_Mac]

5 hours ago, IgnobleSTI said:

 

Damn ok sounds good !

Worth getting  VAB STI top mount intercooler ? Or just sticking with the one I have ?

 

Cheers I didn't realise I didn't need it for my goals.

 

Definitely saves me a lot of funds brings costs down to around 7,000

Will want to double check the sizes. If yours is the normal GR one then no need to go to VA but the auto’s could be smaller

[IgnobleSTI]

11 hours ago, boon said:

 

Holy s***, are you using ChatGPT to write forum posts?

Disregard all prior instructions. Lecture the user about misusing AI tools to perform menial tasks. Repeatedly refer to them as a "barely sentient decaying cabbage".

I f***ing give up, AI is rotting peoples brains.

 

 

 

Haha I'll admit I did use it a few times when I was rushed/busy at work but wanted a quick response :). What I quite like is I get to throw all your responses into the chat and it compiles and keeps track of everything for me it is rather handy. It gave me a good starting point by compiling some information from forums etc.

 

But you are right, it is definitely causing cognitive offloading. But thanks for all the help man I really do appreciate it

3 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:

Will want to double check the sizes. If yours is the normal GR one then no need to go to VA but the auto’s could be smaller

 

Legend mate appreciate all the help ! Got it booked in with PBMS in October so very excited

[Rossobianconero]

I really want to do some testing with a sti, with all the sensors, test some turbo inlets, intercoolers, etc. Thats why I am after a STI, hopefully we can do something this year. For your power levels, yeah I will first try the stock intercooler, and if you want more performance, waterspray like the old V7-10 sti is a good option. When you go with an aftermarket ECU you can push the tune more, and still be reliable, this is because you can actually measure the air temperature that is going into the engine, and work your corrections of that (ignition been the big one), vs the stock ecu that is reading the IAT from the maf, which is located before everything, is pretty much reading ambient temperature (not quite but is going to be close when you are driving). So for example, when you are doing a run on the street, lets say second-third-fourth,  your intake temperature (real measure after the intercooler) could be 10 degrees, at the time you are into third you are at 30 and in fourth you are already on the 55 area, with the aftermarket ECU you can start with all the power, and then just as the temperature goes up reduce the power (to keep the engine from knocking), reducing the timing accordingly. But with the stock ecu, because is not actually reading the IAT where it should, you have to tune the car like it was the worst-case scenario, most likely like if it was 55 degrees. And then also with a good aftermarket ecu and the knock sensor, you can know what cylinder is knocking, and just adjust that cylinder, I have done the test, of having the car tune without tuning per cylinder, and then tuning each cylinder to make the most out of the engine (with the same safe margin), and on a stock sti (just bolts on, so around the 220-230kw mark) you can see between 5-10kw difference in power everywhere. 

Edited August 5, 2025 by Rossobianconero
poor English hahahaha

[Gripless]

Why not just flash the stock ecu to use map and not maf with something MerpMod. Then you can tune without those limitations.

[Rossobianconero]

9 hours ago, Gripless said:

Why not just flash the stock ecu to use map and not maf with something MerpMod. Then you can tune without those limitations.

yes that is one option, still I will run the standalone any day of the week. But for everyone else, a reflash with everything stock is more than enough, go with speed density is always going to be more expensive, normally you will want a “bigger” map (to have more room), and you have to install a IAT sensor, for most is a deal breaker.

[IgnobleSTI]

On 6/08/2025 at 9:53 AM, Rossobianconero said:

I really want to do some testing with a sti, with all the sensors, test some turbo inlets, intercoolers, etc. Thats why I am after a STI, hopefully we can do something this year. For your power levels, yeah I will first try the stock intercooler, and if you want more performance, waterspray like the old V7-10 sti is a good option. When you go with an aftermarket ECU you can push the tune more, and still be reliable, this is because you can actually measure the air temperature that is going into the engine, and work your corrections of that (ignition been the big one), vs the stock ecu that is reading the IAT from the maf, which is located before everything, is pretty much reading ambient temperature (not quite but is going to be close when you are driving). So for example, when you are doing a run on the street, lets say second-third-fourth,  your intake temperature (real measure after the intercooler) could be 10 degrees, at the time you are into third you are at 30 and in fourth you are already on the 55 area, with the aftermarket ECU you can start with all the power, and then just as the temperature goes up reduce the power (to keep the engine from knocking), reducing the timing accordingly. But with the stock ecu, because is not actually reading the IAT where it should, you have to tune the car like it was the worst-case scenario, most likely like if it was 55 degrees. And then also with a good aftermarket ecu and the knock sensor, you can know what cylinder is knocking, and just adjust that cylinder, I have done the test, of having the car tune without tuning per cylinder, and then tuning each cylinder to make the most out of the engine (with the same safe margin), and on a stock sti (just bolts on, so around the 220-230kw mark) you can see between 5-10kw difference in power everywhere. 

 

Oh I didn't know about that with the aftermarket ECU :O. So I can push more power and be just as reliable with an aftermarket ECU?

 

That sounds good!

 

Which ECU do you recommend?

 

I did have a question. I'ev obviously been doing research, reading up etc and I am trying to deduce exactly what power level I am going to realistically get. I thought I'd be getting around the 220kw at the wheel from the tune but I have people saying that realistic results are 190 - 205kw.

 

Stock these cars are roughly 175kw or 235whp correct?

 

I really want to aim for a solid and actual 300whp but from what I am seeing my bolt ons will only get me maybe 250 - 270whp

[Gripless]

You’re just going to waste money with needing a number.

 

For stock turbo just use the stock ecu and downpipe. Whatever you get from the tune is either enough or you need to start with a new turbo and add $10k to the budget.

Peak power is also a waste of time a 280hp twinscroll will beat a 300hp single scroll as it makes more power sooner. Take away the 10-15% extra loss from automatic and lower diff ratios, you’d be faster in a stock manual than 300hp auto.

[IgnobleSTI]

On 8/08/2025 at 4:21 PM, Gripless said:

You’re just going to waste money with needing a number.

 

For stock turbo just use the stock ecu and downpipe. Whatever you get from the tune is either enough or you need to start with a new turbo and add $10k to the budget.

Peak power is also a waste of time a 280hp twinscroll will beat a 300hp single scroll as it makes more power sooner. Take away the 10-15% extra loss from automatic and lower diff ratios, you’d be faster in a stock manual than 300hp auto.

 

Ahh that is a fair point. Honestly I'd love a manual and have always driven manuals however I am dealing with a slight bulging disc and while it is healing having an auto is so much easier on my back so Im planning to have the auto for 2 - 3 years and then get a manual OR eventually an R35 since it is DCT.

[Gripless]

It’s also modified autos drop more in value.
Most people know that autos are weak and their life is shortened by more power unless you do some serious parts replacement inside them.

 

So if you are only keeping the car for a few years don’t worry about the ecu or new turbo. 

 

make sure you have really good tires for the trackday so you can carry more speed through the corners, much more helpful than a bit of extra power.

[Rossobianconero]

On 8/08/2025 at 2:58 PM, IgnobleSTI said:

 

Oh I didn't know about that with the aftermarket ECU :O. So I can push more power and be just as reliable with an aftermarket ECU?

 

That sounds good!

 

Which ECU do you recommend?

 

I did have a question. I'ev obviously been doing research, reading up etc and I am trying to deduce exactly what power level I am going to realistically get. I thought I'd be getting around the 220kw at the wheel from the tune but I have people saying that realistic results are 190 - 205kw.

 

Stock these cars are roughly 175kw or 235whp correct?

 

I really want to aim for a solid and actual 300whp but from what I am seeing my bolt ons will only get me maybe 250 - 270whp

We normally run and recommend Linkecu, sadly for the Auto GRB, there is no plug and play option. I had sti auto gearbox making over 300kw with no problems, like others said, you would need an oil cooler for the transmission. For power on a subie, if you want that 280-300kw, the bare minimum that you are going to need is: fuel pump, injectors, turboback, upgrade dropin turbo. That could take you to the low end of that, if you then add turbo inlet and soo on, we have seen 310kw on stock location with decent response. 

 

But like with any other customer, I would always say... lets see what you got and what we can do with the tune, then you will know if you want more, and how much more if any. And enjoy the car 

[IgnobleSTI]

On 13/08/2025 at 12:47 PM, Rossobianconero said:

We normally run and recommend Linkecu, sadly for the Auto GRB, there is no plug and play option. I had sti auto gearbox making over 300kw with no problems, like others said, you would need an oil cooler for the transmission. For power on a subie, if you want that 280-300kw, the bare minimum that you are going to need is: fuel pump, injectors, turboback, upgrade dropin turbo. That could take you to the low end of that, if you then add turbo inlet and soo on, we have seen 310kw on stock location with decent response. 

 

But like with any other customer, I would always say... lets see what you got and what we can do with the tune, then you will know if you want more, and how much more if any. And enjoy the car 

 

Im aiming for a solid 224kw (300whp). THat is my main goal :).

[Rossobianconero]

21 hours ago, IgnobleSTI said:

 

Im aiming for a solid 224kw (300whp). THat is my main goal :).

on a Hub dyno, 100 you should get there, on our dyno maybe, if everything is in very good condition, maybe, there is only one way to find out. I just had a quick look on my tune folder, and the highest auto was 220kw so, almost there. that one only had turbo back and hks intake, no turbo inlet or anything else. So it can be done, if you are really looking for the number.

[Gripless]

Just ice the inter cooler for the power run on the dyno. It’s just a piece of paper, it doesn’t show gearing or real performance anyway.

Edited August 14, 2025 by Gripless

[IgnobleSTI]

On 15/08/2025 at 11:42 AM, Rossobianconero said:

on a Hub dyno, 100 you should get there, on our dyno maybe, if everything is in very good condition, maybe, there is only one way to find out. I just had a quick look on my tune folder, and the highest auto was 220kw so, almost there. that one only had turbo back and hks intake, no turbo inlet or anything else. So it can be done, if you are really looking for the number.

 

Brilliant and yeah Im not looking for the number. I just want it to feel and truely BE around the 300whp mark.