The Single Turbo Conversion Thread 2.0

[tydon]

hi guys currently im stuck on aplug that doesnt seem to exsist on my TT loom. its the plug that goes into a small square vaccum box under the intake by the IAVC.

heres a picture for better clarification.

[gazzy2000]

 tydon said:

hi guys currently im stuck on aplug that doesnt seem to exsist on my TT loom. its the plug that goes into a small square vaccum box under the intake by the IAVC.

heres a picture for better clarification.

thats the emissions control that works with the carbon canister, not really needed by an STI ecu, but should be plugged in so the check engine light dosent come on. U will have to run a wire for it to your ECU, its in the doco

[tydon]

is it possible to wire a 3plug v6 sti ECU (J2) to the EJ20R loom providing the engine matches the ECU mapping???

[Joker]

I would take uneducated guess and say yes with some hard work, but an V3/4 ECU is better suited/the easier way

[tydon]

my uncle has what seems to look like a v3/4 sti motor yellow injectors orange airflow and running a vf23. he bought recently a J2 (ecu) from a V6 sti running also yellow injectors orange airflow and a vf23. he wants to transplant this setup into his GTB BG5a EJ20R wagon. does anyone have any pinouts for v5/6 ECU's?

[kamineko]

 tydon said:

is it possible to wire a 3plug v6 sti ECU (J2) to the EJ20R loom providing the engine matches the ECU mapping???

injectors / idle control / afm will all differ between v3/4 and v5/6

in saying that i'm sure its possible, with some mucking around

[tydon]

no longer gunna use this ECU (J2) going to find v3/4 much simpler lol.

 kamineko']

[quote name='tydon said:

is it possible to wire a 3plug v6 sti ECU (J2) to the EJ20R loom providing the engine matches the ECU mapping???

/quote]

injectors / idle control / afm will all differ between v3/4 and v5/6

in saying that i'm sure its possible, with some mucking around

[tydon]

would anyone be able to tell me if it would be easier replacing the EJ20H loom out of a BG5a with a EJ20R loom to avoid having to do a more complicated repining.

[kamineko]

reloom is simple but quite labour intensive, you need to remove the dash, all the interior including carpet and the front guards, along with the engine loom itself. something you would need to check is the wiring or plug difference between H and R speedo cluster

if you fit the R loom you still need to modify it. buuut you could probably do that on the bench which would be easier than doing it on the car

i dunno. everyone approaches these conversions slightly differently, there is no prescribed way to do it, just many helpful suggestions. as you can see each method has its own 'issues'

[tydon]

hey guys im currently doing the coilpack mod on a GTB wagon 96 with a EJ20R loom i cant find the ignitor wires (A9) and (A10) under the intake manifold in the engine bay the singlebolt coils i pulled off the old TT engine looked like they had ignitors on the coils???? cant find the plug for the ignitor or any of the wires???

[Jimbob]

Ignitor is on passanger strut tower

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[tydon]

 Jimbob said:

Ignitor is on passanger strut tower

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yeah on the bg5a it is but not on the bg5 with EJ20R loom it has earths where u say ignitor sits.

[Jimbob]

oh ok sorry, was a little confused i guess i thought you ment on your bg5a

will see if i have a bg5b/c full wiring diagram

[Koom]

 tydon said:

hey guys im currently doing the coilpack mod on a GTB wagon 96 with a EJ20R loom i cant find the ignitor wires (A9) and (A10) under the intake manifold in the engine bay the singlebolt coils i pulled off the old TT engine looked like they had ignitors on the coils???? cant find the plug for the ignitor or any of the wires???

The BG5b and BG5c models have internal ignitors on each of the coils.

[Koom]

 tydon']

[quote name='tydon said:

hey guys im currently doing the coilpack mod on a GTB wagon 96 with a EJ20R loom i cant find the ignitor wires (A9) and (A10) under the intake manifold in the engine bay the singlebolt coils i pulled off the old TT engine looked like they had ignitors on the coils???? cant find the plug for the ignitor or any of the wires???

/quote]

The BG5b and BG5c models have internal ignitors on each of the coils.

i failed to mention that the engine was fully replaced with an sti v3/4 complete motor and box. have already repinned the ecu and i get power etc. the engine turns over fine. but arent getting any spark to the coils to get it to fire.

So you need to either add an ignitor into the wiring somewhere, or run the internal ignitor coil-on-plug ones in wasted spark. ( wiring shown here )

[tydon]

ok so ive started repinning the EJ20H loom in my BG5a

Also not using coilpack mod on this conversion.

i have these wires from loom not connected to anything...

some i know are from the old TT which arent used again.

B44 - 4 - Secondary wastegate control - red/white

B44 - 14 - GND (power supply) - black/white

B96 - 11 - AT/MT gearselect earth - black/white

B44 - 21 - Exhaust gas temp warning - blue/black

B44 - 20 - Power Steering SW - Brown/yellow

B44 - 8 - Ignition Control no 2 - red

B96 - 16 - Multipoint fuel injection control unit - black/blue

B44 - 19 - Exhaust gas warning sensor (power) - yellow/red

B44 - 7 - Ignition control no 4 - black/red

B43 - 18 - Mass airflow/oxy/knock sensor (shield) - black/green

B43 - 19 - camshaft position sensor (shield) - grey/red

B43 - 20 - Crankshaft position sensor (shield) - grey

[tydon]

 Koom']

[quote name='tydon said:

hey guys im currently doing the coilpack mod on a GTB wagon 96 with a EJ20R loom i cant find the ignitor wires (A9) and (A10) under the intake manifold in the engine bay the singlebolt coils i pulled off the old TT engine looked like they had ignitors on the coils???? cant find the plug for the ignitor or any of the wires???

/quote]

The BG5b and BG5c models have internal ignitors on each of the coils.

i failed to mention that the engine was fully replaced with an sti v3/4 complete motor and box. have already repinned the ecu and i get power etc. the engine turns over fine. but arent getting any spark to the coils to get it to fire.

So you need to either add an ignitor into the wiring somewhere, or run the internal ignitor coil-on-plug ones in wasted spark. ( wiring shown here )

i have tryed wiring in a ignitor excatly to what the thread says have double checked and dont seem to be getting spark to coil pack. got 12v from coilpack ran it to ignitor and ground from up by the window wiper motor. ran a wire straight to A10 and A9 for the ecu signal.??? and ran wires for the red and blue to the coilpack and ignitor

[Jimbob]

Hey tydon. Sent ya a pm with my number. I can show you mine running after 8 any day this week. And show my wiring and anything else you need help with

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[tydon]

 tydon said:

ok so ive started repinning the EJ20H loom in my BG5a

Also not using coilpack mod on this conversion.

i have these wires from loom not connected to anything...

some i know are from the old TT which arent used again.

B44 - 4 - Secondary wastegate control - red/white

B44 - 14 - GND (power supply) - black/white

B96 - 11 - AT/MT gearselect earth - black/white

B44 - 21 - Exhaust gas temp warning - blue/black

B44 - 20 - Power Steering SW - Brown/yellow

B44 - 8 - Ignition Control no 2 - red

B96 - 16 - Multipoint fuel injection control unit - black/blue

B44 - 19 - Exhaust gas warning sensor (power) - yellow/red

B44 - 7 - Ignition control no 4 - black/red

B43 - 18 - Mass airflow/oxy/knock sensor (shield) - black/green

B43 - 19 - camshaft position sensor (shield) - grey/red

B43 - 20 - Crankshaft position sensor (shield) - grey

ok ive spent heaps time tryna figure this out and now have eliminated a few wires

B44 - 14 - GND (power supply) - black/white (this wire splits into two one i have already pinned into the ecu)

B44 - 20 - Power Steering SW - Brown/yellow

B96 - 16 - Multipoint fuel injection control unit - black/blue

the car turns on and winds over just doesnt ignite? sounds healthyish

[kamineko]

after going through this debugging process many times, some advice, print out both the wiring diagrams (like 4x A4 each taped together)

make a drawing of the connectors and clearly label the pins

highlight / tick the connections you have sorted out and know to be correct

anything left over?

[Jimbob]

Got afm hooked up? Cam angle crank angle and tps hooked up? And each of them plugged in? Without afm wired in it may be a carnt to start

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[gazzy2000]

 kamineko said:

after going through this debugging process many times, some advice, print out both the wiring diagrams (like 4x A4 each taped together)

make a drawing of the connectors and clearly label the pins

highlight / tick the connections you have sorted out and know to be correct

anything left over?

i have posted links with A3 v3/4 WRX diagrams

[gazzy2000]

Tyson, double check the cam and crank wires..

- check that the shield wires go into b136,13

- check that the -ve wire from both the cam and crank sensor on pin 136,9

- check the notes on the v3/4 wiring diagram i.e. the asterix stating with or without immboliser

Asterix notes From wiring diagram:

* Crank +ve is b136,10 without immobiliser

* Cam +ve is B136,8 without immobiliser

and as above crank -ve and cam -ve are both into B136, 9

dont get confused with the shield wires around the signal wire, you can strip back the signal wire to expose a tad of the shield and check continuity from there

Double check all of these

If you have double checked all your ignitor/coil wires and are happy this is correct, it more than likely will be (if you know what u are doing lol), the cam, crank, shield, -ve, +ve is a tad confusing but all the info is there.

Basically man there is enough info in that doc to complete the conversion, but you have to be some-what technologically savy.. if not take it to a expert

[tydon]

 gazzy2000 said:

Tyson, double check the cam and crank wires..

- check that the shield wires go into b136,13

- check that the -ve wire from both the cam and crank sensor on pin 136,9

- check the notes on the v3/4 wiring diagram i.e. the asterix stating with or without immboliser

Asterix notes From wiring diagram:

* Crank +ve is b136,10 without immobiliser

* Cam +ve is B136,8 without immobiliser

and as above crank -ve and cam -ve are both into B136, 9

dont get confused with the shield wires around the signal wire, you can strip back the signal wire to expose a tad of the shield and check continuity from there

Double check all of these

If you have double checked all your ignitor/coil wires and are happy this is correct, it more than likely will be (if you know what u are doing lol), the cam, crank, shield, -ve, +ve is a tad confusing but all the info is there.

Basically man there is enough info in that doc to complete the conversion, but you have to be some-what technologically savy.. if not take it to a expert

thanks gary i have double checked all my wiring against pinouts i had printed everything off took awhile to figure it all out i dont have any "spare" wires left over everything is where it should be. ive traced back all the wires and their colours etc. ive tryed to start it while not wired up properly or with diffrent ecus in it... dont ask why lol

and i havent wired the 3plug afm in yet.

[kamineko]

so, everything is done, your using the 75 ecu but not the AFM? so, trying to start with no AFM?

you need the AFM, and the correct one, wired properly.

newer V5/V6 generation apparently start and run poorly with no afm. I've never been able to start early v1-4 gen with no afm.