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Reubens Second Single Conversion thread. 56k fail.


ReubenH

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if its a GTB as per your sig, you wont need to redo the loom, its just a couple of small mods (no doubt Reuben will get into when he gets there).

If it was a BG5A not BG5B (B is gtb) theres a high chance of a repin or reloom due to the 4 plug ecu.

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 KwS said:

if its a GTB as per your sig, you wont need to redo the loom, its just a couple of small mods (no doubt Reuben will get into when he gets there).

If it was a BG5A not BG5B (B is gtb) theres a high chance of a repin or reloom due to the 4 plug ecu.

I am going through this at the moment with a BG5A, So I'll let you know how I get on

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K gents.

BG5A Has the old style 4-plug. The wiring is unique, and most wires need to be re-pinned. It's a large and troublesome job, enough so that i'd recomend going aftermarket. But, it should be possible, and i think it's been done before. Me and matt have not managed to get one of these running, and have run out of patience.

BG5B/C.

Manual. Has the old 3-plug loom, this is directly compatible with the V3/4 impreza ECU's. If it's GTB with yellow injectors, STi will work. If it's a GT with greys, a foz ecu will work. Only difference is the ignition wiring (4 wires) and the boost control (1 wire)

Auto. Has the un-compatible one plug loom abomination. Sucks to be you. ;)IF you find a pinout, you may be able to get an aftermarket ecu working. But you will have no TCU... (The one-plug loom AFAIK is cause they intergrated the TCU and ECU in one. Or so i've been told)... just... get a manual or BE/BH

BH5A/B/C. Has the Phase 2 ECU (i don't refer to it as a 3-plug, as to avoid confusion). This is directly compatible with the V5/6 ECU's. Same story with ignition and boost control. But the BH's have a fuel pump controller, you need to run a new wire directly from the ECU to the fuel pump relay, and bypass the fuel pump controller in the boot, it's easy to do, and can be done in 30 mins.

BH5D. Has a 5-plug loom. These carse are the same generation as the Ver. 7's. They have the phase 3 engine. But i know nothing about the looms and ecu's etc. At this stage, all i know is it should be entirely possible with an aftermarket ecu. Just need to find a wiring diagram or pinout for em.

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 ReubenH said:

So is that what you guy's figured in the end eh? Sounds logical to me. Will indeed put a note in about that when i redo the conversion thread with all the extra BE/BH info, and BG5A info.

Yip, absolutely, the timing was simply too advanced under boost/load and it just Detonated its bum off putting the car in safe mode when the knock sensor detected det.

This cud only be remedied using a tunable after market computer (link or what have you)

That link i brought was tunned for a very similar BH5 ST conv and the chap i got it off said that i wud have to pull timing as it was tuned for a CR of 8:1 (and of course mine is 9:1)

When we went for a road tune with the link, thats exactly what we found, it detted its ass off just like the std STI v5/6 ECU did with 8:1 CR, but we ended up pulling 10 degrees timing and it was sweet as, no more det!

Of course we found out it was deting using my home made detonation listening device, of which the link tunning man was happy to use for the on road tune.

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 ReubenH said:

Interesting indeed. I was just going to say chris has appeared to have no problems, but then i remembered he rebuilt the engine, used a V7 shortie, with thick HG's. God knows what the compression ratio is, but it ain't 9:1 in that car :D

Yer, mattapo on here is doing his brothers BH5 TT to ST and they are going to use a STI shorty which will be fine.

Apparently the CR IS engineered into the pistons, not the heads or head gasket and the STI shorty is 8:1 i believe making it fine to use with the std STI v5/6 ECU.

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 ReubenH']

BH5A/B/C. Has the Phase 2 ECU (i don't refer to it as a 3-plug, as to avoid confusion). This is directly compatible with the V5/6 ECU's. Same story with ignition and boost control. But the BH's have a fuel pump controller, you need to run a new wire directly from the ECU to the fuel pump relay, and bypass the fuel pump controller in the boot, it's easy to do, and can be done in 30 mins.

Yeah this little detail we missed caused much sadness after the newly installed block wouldnt start! We got it to start temporarily by hooking the fuel pump directly on to the battery (NOT RECOMMENDED! ;D) Anyway, we (Reuben and I) took pictures of its location and the wiring required. Apparently, the fuel controller varies the pump speed to 33% 66% and 100% depending on load etc whereas on the single turbo it pumps full stick all the time which doesn't worry me, less delay getting fuel to the engine is not a bad thing in my books hence doing the split fuel rail.:

Location:

It is behind this panel:

BH_fuel_controller_location1.jpg

and looks like this:

BH_fuel_controller_location3.jpg

The diagram/schematic to go with it, click to enlarge

BH-Fuel-Pump-Diagrams.jpg

Idea is, rewire (at the controller) pin5 to pin6 and pin10 to pin7 (two black wires, a red and white. The l/g wire back to the ECU becomes redundant)

After that is done, run a wire from the ecu pin A21 (l/green) to the driver's side relay. (Reuben, can you remember if this was the top or bottom relay? Must look at wiring diag's again)

[quote name='ReubenH said:

Interesting indeed. I was just going to say chris has appeared to have no problems, but then i remembered he rebuilt the engine, used a V7 shortie, with thick HG's. God knows what the compression ratio is, but it ain't 9:1 in that car :D

I don't really know much about compression but I actually used genuine Subaru head gaskets which were actually thicker than the old ones. Also, the pistons in the new block are a completely different shape (ie have dip-like things in them whereas the EJ20TT block didn't to the same extent) Hope that makes sense... must get a compression test one day... anyone in Auckland have compression gear? :P

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I don't think a compression test measures the compression ratio... or does it... last i heard it has to be done with maths, measuring the HG thickness, volume of the head and that sorta shit.

Anyway, good sh!t, thanks for that post chris!

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So for the V5/6 ecu going into a Be5 b4, are the ignition wires that need to be changed, is that for the different coil/spark set up that is on top of the motor instead of the coil on plug like the twin turbo set up. Are the wires that need to be changed the same as the diagram for the V3/4 ecu for the older legacy gtb that is displayed in the older post ?

Would it be possible to draw a diagram like you have done for the fuel pump relay for the ignition system and boost control.

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 ReubenH said:

I don't think a compression test measures the compression ratio... or does it... last i heard it has to be done with maths, measuring the HG thickness, volume of the head and that sorta ****.

Compression test doesn't give you the compression ratio of the engine.

The compression ration is found by comparing the entire volume inside the combustion chamber at TDC and BDC. So you need to know the stroke and bore, plus the headgasket thickness, the cc of the dome in the head and the cc of the dome in the piston (also have to take into account where the piston sits at TDC i.e. is it perfectly flush with the top of the block, does it sit lower or higher? and add or subtract the necessary volume).

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 Koom said:

Compression test doesn't give you the compression ratio of the engine.

The compression ration is found by comparing the entire volume inside the combustion chamber at TDC and BDC. So you need to know the stroke and bore, plus the headgasket thickness, the cc of the dome in the head and the cc of the dome in the piston (also have to take into account where the piston sits at TDC i.e. is it perfectly flush with the top of the block, does it sit lower or higher? and add or subtract the necessary volume).

"I'm an Engen... an Enginiee... Good at maths" :P

I would've thought the thickness of the gasket could probably be absorbed in the error, you're probably not gonna give a compression ratio in significant figures above 2...

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you could measure by taking out spark plug and measure the stroke of the piston.

if you know what size pistons you have a very smart person could give you the answer.

but that person is not me.

i have a BD5 auto block and heads on my BD5B MT5 will this matter on a TT/ST conversion.

or should i save for a better bottom end?

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 Justin_55 said:

So for the V5/6 ecu going into a Be5 b4, are the ignition wires that need to be changed, is that for the different coil/spark set up that is on top of the motor instead of the coil on plug like the twin turbo set up. Are the wires that need to be changed the same as the diagram for the V3/4 ecu for the older legacy gtb that is displayed in the older post ?

Would it be possible to draw a diagram like you have done for the fuel pump relay for the ignition system and boost control.

If Reuben doesnt beat me to it, i'll do it later on tonight... You dont have to go to coil packs (what you are thinking about when you say on top of the engine). I still have the individual coils but there is still re-wiring necessary. Check back tomorrow and i should have the diagrams for you!

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