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What have you done to your car today?


Guest keltik

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@Zenki does the vpas10 have the passive radiator (port on the back covered in rubber) to extend the bass lower?

 

The vpas12 is meant to have a little more towards 30Hz but looking at other companies that publish full ratings it's not the  standard -3dB some are -20dB (that's 15 times lower) by 30Hz. 

 

@THUNDA they are class D so way less power wasted in the amp to heat.

The boxes aren't tape sealed so you can take it out and look at it.

 

 

only thing that concerns me is the +/- 20% on the low pass filter adjustment. So at 150Hz max it could be 120Hz at 85Hz min could be 58Hz.

going to leave it at max and use head unit to do X over since it is way more accurate and steeper cut. 

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@Gripless Nope, no passive radiator, and on top of that it's got a 35Hz subsonic filter. The 12 doesn't have the passive radiator either, unsure if that has the subsonic filter also. 

 

I did exactly that, set the low pass as high as it would go and set the crossover frequencies from the head unit. Currently set to 63Hz -12db with the door woofers at 50Hz -18, but I fiddle with it regularly. 

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@Zenki the vpas12 I got today has 30Hz subsonic and the passive radiator slot on the back so maybe a little deeper. Fingers crossed.

 

If it's not enough and I can get it in by Tuesday then I can always get another.

But I've got a hatchback so not much other than that sliding plastic sheet seperating it from me.

 

ill try front at 63Hz -24dB and sub at 80 -12dB as the sub already cuts -12 at 150Hz +/- 20%. But yes I'll fiddle for a week or so until it sound average across all songs.

 

I do like that the gain dial while weighting less that a 10c coin, clicks nicely twice per marking.

Oh and that the wire is Rj11 phone stuff so I can shorten it.

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10 hours ago, Gripless said:

@Zenki the vpas12 I got today has 30Hz subsonic and the passive radiator slot on the back so maybe a little deeper. Fingers crossed.

 

If it's not enough and I can get it in by Tuesday then I can always get another.

But I've got a hatchback so not much other than that sliding plastic sheet seperating it from me.

 

ill try front at 63Hz -24dB and sub at 80 -12dB as the sub already cuts -12 at 150Hz +/- 20%. But yes I'll fiddle for a week or so until it sound average across all songs.

 

I do like that the gain dial while weighting less that a 10c coin, clicks nicely twice per marking.

Oh and that the wire is Rj11 phone stuff so I can shorten it.

Running it @ 4 or 2 ohms?

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This morning I put in a Group N transmission mount, and Whiteline's Positive Shift Kit h-brace bushings into the WRX. Didn't notice much additional vibration after, but the shifts seem nicer, and there's a lot less movement when changing gears, which has always been annoying. One thing I wasn't expecting is that the car also sounds freakin' amazing, with a lot more transmission noise when accelerating hard, but nice and quiet when just driving normally. I think I'll put in a brass shifter bushing next. I'm thinking about a pitch brace, but that might be a little overboard with the vibrations.  

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I have done a few things to the Hilux of late 

fitted LED headlight bulbs to compliment the 52" light bar :) 

0XErxic.jpg

So now all lights in the front are LED, next will be an upgrade for the indicators and park/indicators in the bull bar, Oh EDIT just ordered another light bar to go on the bullbar :) oops cant resist a cheap deal. 

Next, thanks to a mate I have had fitted a Chip to the truck, as it has done just over 300,000km it has only a low tune in it BUT still very impressed, way more response to throttle input 

jaWHhr4.jpg

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Who knew they make drill bits with hex ends rated for impact wrenches...

D183_Superbit_ImpactDrill_HSS.jpg

Impact drill bit

 

Pulled all the false floor and panels attached to the seats to remove the material off the back of the smaller section of the rear seat.

Found a section where the corrugations on the back of the seat lined up with the sub mounts and drilled and screwed it in.

I had to mount it sideways to leave a gap at the bottom so the floor and lift up enough to be removed to get at the spare etc. Any higher and it would hit the retractable sheet that covers the hatch.

 

>:( So little room in engine bay to mount the circuit breaker. Fuse box and fuel lines take up almost all the good space. Can't use strut tower as bonnet gas support strut folds down there.

 

time to break out the latest little toy to make a custom bracket to hold it next to the main engine loom.  Not sure if there is still a rule about having a fuse within 30cm of the battery but it'll be close

nibbling-toolImageMain-900.jpg

 Hand Nibbler

 

Edited by Gripless
Nibble nibble
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I have this model, life changing...

Yeah now the missus can talk on her phone legally when she borrows my car at lunchtime. Can always tell when she has been using her phone cos I hop into my car and the stereo has been turned all the way down.


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looked at trying to run power cable for amp.

Holy F*** the amount of sound deadening which is hard and molded into shape and cramped space behind the dash.

 

guess tomorrow I'll either take the intercooler off and cut the sound deadening away or take a wheel and inner guard off.

 

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53 minutes ago, Gripless said:

looked at trying to run power cable for amp.

Holy F*** the amount of sound deadening which is hard and molded into shape and cramped space behind the dash.

 

guess tomorrow I'll either take the intercooler off and cut the sound deadening away or take a wheel and inner guard off.

 

 

There isn't an existing grommet somewhere in the firewall you can use?

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1 hour ago, Gripless said:

looked at trying to run power cable for amp.

Holy F*** the amount of sound deadening which is hard and molded into shape and cramped space behind the dash.

 

guess tomorrow I'll either take the intercooler off and cut the sound deadening away or take a wheel and inner guard off.

 

27 minutes ago, thewabbit1 said:

There isn't an existing grommet somewhere in the firewall you can use?

 

Behind passenger side inner wheel liner should be a grommet which it can pass through (assuming they have a similar design to the Legacys...)

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@thewabbit1 yes one behind the intercooler but the firewall has heavy foam, heat molded plastic and rubber that will need cutting. That will require intercooler out to get a knife in there. This is the first late 2000's car I've ever had to run bigger power cable.

 

@JGM yeah looks like there must be one. Rear washer pipe goes through there somewhere as it appears from under the sound deadening and joins the fuel lines. Found out jack that is in the car is busted so couldn't take the wheel off.

 

 

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Removed inner front arch and managed to get power cable through. Replaced all the missing clips.

 

factory wiring grommet and the water spray grommet both to tight to use. Wasted a lot of time as the tape was old and bonded to the rubber grommet to figure this out.

found a small oval one right down low but getting it trough the next layer involved threading a tiny cable the other way through the round door loom mount. so much wiring in there as there is a few recesses filled with plugs to keep them out of the footwell.

 

Ran sealer inside grommet so it won't leak and hung cable in U so any water drains downwards and never in to the car.

 

part way through making the split tube and wiring looms. No idea why I make it so tidy and pretty just to cover it all up. But removal will be super easy.

 

 

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