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Posted
 smokn4']

[quote name='smokn4 said:

modified triple gauge cluster to where heater controlls were, heater controlls removed ,head unit brackets modded,modified cup holder bracket, removed lighter and ash tray now starting to relocate heater controlls to underneath the cup holder ;) ....

/quote]

pics when finished plz :)

will do

this sounds interesting. +1 on the pics

Guest loren
Posted

emergency top radiator hose replacement before hillclimb tomorrow. luckily it burst

on the way to scrutineering not the race!

Guest dcornie
Posted

engine is out of car but not taken out byh me but but hopai since i can do two sh!ts of f@@k all

Posted

ecu,boost gauge,ebc and turbo went in today with massive huge props to bazza and spark_38 and spanku for helping me put the gear in..definitely got schooled today and bummed i couldnt be much more help with my own damn car..thx guys!

Posted

Talented club members are the most invaluable source of awesomeness around, bubblz... definitely cherish them and learn all you can from them.

New rego and wheel alignment on my car today. Toe is down as close to 0 as possible, castor was kept within the factory recommendation (according to the machine), rear camber at -1 as it seems to be fixed... weirdly enough, my front camber refuses to go further positive than -1.6º in one strut, and -2.0º in the other!! :o Bit befuddled as to why. Boostin pointed out that contrary to our first theory, the tophats being in the wrong position wouldn't work. He did point out, however, that the newly installed alloy arms may have something to do with it.

Not that I mind the handling the thing has at the moment...very, very positive and responsive. Just...these absurdly gooey tyres will be goneburger in a heartbeat what that ridiculous sort of camber! Happily cranks out to -2.something, but refuses to come closer to 0 than the above figures. WHAT GIVES? They be the STi gymkhana struts (by Showa) with STi springs, aftermarket tophats. BE/BH alloy arms, adjustable swaybar links. Everything else vanilla. This sort of setup at the moment is just silly. :P

Guest keltik
Posted

Sounds like it could be worth trying the ol' '2 camber bolts' in each strut mod. I have a pair here i'd be willing to part with for cheap.

I remember hearing somewhere that there was 2 different length alloy arms. Was on some US forum a long while ago. If your lower arms were a few mm longer - that would explain this.

Guest boostin
Posted
 Big_Dave said:

engine is out of car but not taken out byh me but but hopai since i can do two sh!ts of f@@k all

And you trust Hopai to undertake such a job?? Wow.

Guest keltik
Posted

You had to swap the cam pulleys?!

Posted

yup..

Only one though

Rev D motors have more teeth on the back of the crank and cam pully for the crank and cam sensor....

Thats the reason why we couldnt start it as the crank pulley on the factory motor had 6 teeth and rev d 24 or something so it didnt know wtf was going on...

Posted

i washed my ute, finally replaced the blown brake lamps.

wire brushed the new brakes for the subby, put in the non ABS lines and master cylinder. done a fair bit :)

-smurff

Posted
 aim said:

I broke it :(

well thats not a good thing to do to it :P

-smurff

Posted

Haha, I know. It's not broken per say. Just leaking water, even when its off. Dunno where from yet. I was on a road trip with some mates, had to leave it in Hokitika :P

Posted

I scraped off some old peeling stickers. No longer a fan of Dirty Dog eyewear or Tony's Tyre Service. ;D

Kept the previous owner's ClubSUB sticker though. :)

Posted
 keltik said:

Sounds like it could be worth trying the ol' '2 camber bolts' in each strut mod. I have a pair here i'd be willing to part with for cheap.

I remember hearing somewhere that there was 2 different length alloy arms. Was on some US forum a long while ago. If your lower arms were a few mm longer - that would explain this.

That's what I was fearing. The arms are out of a BH5 GTB, which could be throwing the groove off.

That said - what's the chance the extra length and thus extra camber etc is placing stress on any of the other parts?

If it's going to prove worrysome having so much camber and potentially longer arms, I'll have to take you up on the two camber bolts mod. Cheers bro.

Posted

wear on other parts - negligable.. itl just run extra camber and wear your tyres.

If your arms are longer (and you run two camber bolts) then its going to give you marginally extra track in the front.

Why dont you swap with me.. who has GC alloy arms

Posted

You want the wider alloy arms eh?

Well... that might be something to do. How'd you wanna do that? Logistical nightmare but it sounds pretty flash.

Edit: That said, I am REALLY REALLY enjoying having more grip going harder into corners at the moment... ;D As long as it's only tyres I'm killing, I'm HAPPY!

Posted
 Big_Dave said:

engine is out of car but not taken out byh me but but hopai since i can do two sh!ts of f@@k all

Never underestimate the importance and value of a good consultant (which is what you're doing ;)

Posted
 Shale said:
Not that I mind the handling the thing has at the moment...very, very positive and responsive. Just...these absurdly gooey tyres will be goneburger in a heartbeat what that ridiculous sort of camber! Happily cranks out to -2.something, but refuses to come closer to 0 than the above figures. WHAT GIVES? They be the STi gymkhana struts (by Showa) with STi springs, aftermarket tophats. BE/BH alloy arms, adjustable swaybar links. Everything else vanilla. This sort of setup at the moment is just silly. :P

Actually, having negative camber only minimally increases tyre wear. It's only when you have negative camber and toe, that things start wearing like crazy. So if your toe on the front is in fact zero, I wouldn't be too worried. Enjoy your awesome handling :D .

-1.6 to -2.0 is bugger all difference anyways, 0.4 degrees difference in left to right camber will do next to nothing to affect the handling of the car. If it was -0.5 and -2.0 then maybe you'd start to worry.

Save the money, leave the camber bolts as they are.

Posted
 Erelyes']

[quote name='Shale said:

Not that I mind the handling the thing has at the moment...very, very positive and responsive. Just...these absurdly gooey tyres will be goneburger in a heartbeat what that ridiculous sort of camber! Happily cranks out to -2.something, but refuses to come closer to 0 than the above figures. WHAT GIVES? They be the STi gymkhana struts (by Showa) with STi springs, aftermarket tophats. BE/BH alloy arms, adjustable swaybar links. Everything else vanilla. This sort of setup at the moment is just silly. :P

/quote]

Actually, having negative camber only minimally increases tyre wear. It's only when you have negative camber and toe, that things start wearing like crazy. So if your toe on the front is in fact zero, I wouldn't be too worried. Enjoy your awesome handling :D .

-1.6 to -2.0 is bugger all difference anyways, 0.4 degrees difference in left to right camber will do next to nothing to affect the handling of the car. If it was -0.5 and -2.0 then maybe you'd start to worry.

Save the money, leave the camber bolts as they are.

its more the point.. on factory set up wrxs/legacys up to the BG era anyway, run about -1.0deg maximum.. shales is running -1.6 and -2.0 MINIMUM..

Posted
 funkytown said:

its more the point.. on factory set up wrxs/legacys up to the BG era anyway, run about -1.0deg maximum.. shales is running -1.6 and -2.0 MINIMUM..

Personally, I'd be happy its got that range and leave it there.

Posted
 Koom']

[quote name='funkytown said:

its more the point.. on factory set up wrxs/legacys up to the BG era anyway, run about -1.0deg maximum.. shales is running -1.6 and -2.0 MINIMUM..

/quote]

Personally, I'd be happy its got that range and leave it there.

;D i wasnt offering my thoughts on what i thought were ideal settings.. just stating what the facts in this situation were.. :-X

Posted

As Funky said... I'm just weirded out that I can't pull it in any further.

However, if you are all comfortable with that level of camber on both the tyres and the equipment in there, then I am happy too :)

The toe has been brought in to 0.1 - 0.3, barely a smidge away from neutral. The car is beautiful to drive now in comparison to how it was.

The extra camber seems to do what they say and help with the cornering (as I always suspected) so from a performance angle I am PLEASED ;D

Might pay to just tidy it up and get it even both sides eh... -2.0º both sides sound good? Mwaha.

Pity the rears appear to not be adjustable.

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