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What have you done to your car today?


Guest keltik

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fitted fuel fitting & fired it up, i dont think the v6 sti yellows are quite the same as the v3/4 yellows that i was running.

I uploaded a video, not sure why (I know there will be a few who may well have an idea) but it through a check light & over fueled & ran not the greatest, it was popping blue flames out the back just at idle but i didnt catch them, all i have added is v6 side feed yellow injectors & A/M fuel rails, xrp fuel filter, & some new fuel hose, & changed the O2 sensor thats all. even the wide band readings are up the buggery too,

might give the Re-map ecu a go at running these one's & swap back my other O2 sensor (that has seen its share of avgas, hence why i changed it)

some of the camera is really just me holding it as i'm checking a few things but it's not the same as it was ???, might get a mate to have a second look at some settings, before i move it, I really wanna go for a drive & test the new g/box :(

http://www.youtube.com/user/CUDDAZ#p/a/u/0/1z1y8f9svfc

flame away :P & they are not decapped yet.

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sub frame locking bolts have nothing to do with camber btw.. it read like you think it does.

anyway. they are bolts that go through the rear subframe into your chassis - pre made they are, and you put these solid bolts in and it removes the 'give' in the bushes from the normal mount points. The subframe becomes 'locked' to your chassis - your alignment settings stay the same during dynamic driving situations rather than the subframe walking and moving around the place.

NVH increases though.

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beat me to it

lock bolts prevent lateral movement in the rear subframe. still allows a little vertical movement. makes alignment settings stay put when hard cornering in a foz. i think they are standard items in an sti?

not sure.

heres a linky to the ones iv got: http://www2.kartboy.com/x4/product.php?productid=16176&cat=265&bestseller=Y

camber bolts are what will give you the camber. $104 from autolign. do hope i dont need another set.

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Yesterday i started to move the mass amout of wiring under the dash so i can wire brush the surface rust on the steering system. Then help blow up a mirage - drained all oil and water and left it running

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lol i ment it as in i want camber . i know its not to do with sub frame . .you guys call them lock bolts for some reason . every one i know calls them solid mounted sub frame shims ? like i have done to allot of my rb powered cars . remoVe rubber sub frame bushes and replace with allow shims . . . that the same idea or are subaru different ? this would promote over steer wouldn't it ? it sure does in skylines and cefiros etc

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nah, it stops the diff carrier moving from side to side when cornering hard. you still have the vertical movement from the bushes. just stops the camber angle changing as the diff moves. i think?

autolign has 14mm camber bolts. mention you are a club sub member. might give you a bit of a discount.

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This is more of a question. I notice my 95 gt has shite loads more electrics than my 96 and also it has a shite loads of wiring under the dash. There must be up to 5-10 kgs of wire and crap. Is it a good idea to just rip it out and start again or would i have shite loads of trouble when its time to put engine in?

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 kwi_fozze said:

nah, it stops the diff carrier moving from side to side when cornering hard. you still have the vertical movement from the bushes. just stops the camber angle changing as the diff moves. i think?

autolign has 14mm camber bolts. mention you are a club sub member. might give you a bit of a discount.

Be Interesting too see the amount of camber they will give you

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 Bumpty said:

Test fitted snowchains and now not looking forward to fitting them in the cold when its most likely on a wet gravel road...

there are tricks and tips for chain fitting...

firstly what type of chain are they

what vehicle is it

I have driving on Ohakune MT road professionally for 20 years and although we run predominantly AWD vehicles now WE always carry chains as well...

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