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What have you done to your car today?


Guest keltik

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Took my car for a good blat to Kaikoura and back. Did 470k return and was on E when I pulled up to the petrol station.

It was a very nervous drive through town.

Wish I could have afforded to fill the car right up to get an idea of how much petrol was still in the tank.

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 Rosssub said:
Yeah, need to do all four callipers, in that order. Because of the order you can't just do the fronts.

FR - RL - FL - RR

Thats right, start at the caliper closest to the master cyl and work your way back. but if you clamp the flexi hose when changing each over then you only need to bleed that caliper.

I bleed inside nipple first then out side, no need no pump up just 1 press at a time does it nicely.

Would also like to thank Gotasuby for increasing the boost for me the other night, 20psi=fun, hes been a bloody good bugger putting up with my need for speed haha can't wait till next time!(tues.. wink wink) Im confident i dont have any hiccups left that will put a stop to tuning! lol

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Finally sent the bloody Motor back to the pricks who lied to me about what it was(V2 RA cdb with unidentifiable TT heads is definitely not v5/6 STi longblock) in christchurch.

I better have my money back before the end of the week; this has been one long headache...

And then I have yet to fix my car on top of that >.<

 STiNGR said:
So do I need to do rears even though I didn't touch them? I was told FL 1st?? Sooooo many different opinions.

Yeah; the brake system is like diagonals and stuff; so it's all connected in a weird way that makes traditional bleeding methods such as 'furthest first' pointless.

Edited by 94 Leone
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Not exactly the Version 8 STI Hypereutectic pistons I was expecting, but good enough.

STA p/n PS209EJ20T .25R - Semi Forged Eutectic, 17cc dish:

STA_Semi_Forged_Eutectic_001.jpg

STA_Semi_Forged_Eutectic_002.jpg

Next to the Version 1/2 cast dogbones that were originally in the short block:

STA_Semi_Forged_Eutectic_004.jpg

STA_Semi_Forged_Eutectic_005.jpg

Left is V1/2 Pin - Middle is phase 2 BH5B 163g (same as JDM version 7 STI) - Right is STA new pin (32g lighter than STI)

Comparing_pins_002.jpg

Need to get them in to work out if I'm changing HG thickness or not. (Quench/CTD/CR)

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Well, that's different. Looks like a semi closed version 5/6:

Semi_forged_pistons_in_005.jpg

The 0.6mm OEM HG I've brought is going back. These protrude 0.5mm above deck (-0.5mm CTD). So...

92.25mm bore

75mm stroke

49cc CC version 6 STI heads

17cc piston dish

-0.5mm Clearance to deck

1.3mm HG = 0.8mm quench - 8.0:1 CR

1.5mm HG = 1.0mm quench - 7.9:1 CR

CR calculators:

http://www.zealautowerks.com/

http://www.summitracing.com/expertadviceandnews/calcsandtools/compression-calculator

http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html

Edit: Not %100 on the head CC, will fit a plug later today and measure properly.

Edited by Rosssub
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 Rosssub said:
Well, that's different. Looks like a semi closed version 5/6:

Semi_forged_pistons_in_005.jpg

The 0.6mm OEM HG I've brought is going back. These protrude 0.5mm above deck (-0.5mm CTD). So...

92.25mm bore

75mm stroke

49cc CC version 6 STI heads

17cc piston dish

-0.5mm Clearance to deck

1.3mm HG = 0.8mm quench - 8.0:1 CR

1.5mm HG = 1.0mm quench - 7.9:1 CR

CR calculators:

http://www.zealautowerks.com/

http://www.summitracing.com/expertadviceandnews/calcsandtools/compression-calculator

http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html

Edit: Not %100 on the head CC, will fit a plug later today and measure properly.

Spark plug installed and head set level, (version 6 STI).

Head_CC_measure_003.jpg

After machining they are exactly 48.85cc:

Head_CC_measure_005.jpg

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Well, I blew my gearbox up on tuesday night? Does this count? Took it to the mechanic and depending on whats gone wrong in the box, if it's something that can be fixed the 5 speed stays... If it isn't... Well I'm getting a 6 speed DCCD Version 8 box put in it....

The v5 STi RA, AKA 'DRP' (short for DERP) will be getting a mad upgrade :D

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