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What have you done to your car today?


Guest keltik

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Been for a bit of a test drive, the car is going much better since tuning. The Butt-O-Meter was very convinced that there is an improvement.

koom: BP98.

evowrx: don't know about cams unfortunately. Headers are stainless UL 4:1... no branding that I have seen.

Edited by loner
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In the bh5 I got rid of the McIntosh head unit whilst retaining the amp and speakers. Sounds good so far. Also got rid of all traces of the old Nav system. Tomorrows mission is to get the reverse camera sorted.

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^ You wouldn't be interested in looking at my possumlink tune? I can't get my idle particularly smooth sometimes and not having much luck with the knock control. I already have a wideband so it makes it quite easy to get accurate fuel results haha.

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 Sancho said:
^ You wouldn't be interested in looking at my possumlink tune? I can't get my idle particularly smooth sometimes and not having much luck with the knock control. I already have a wideband so it makes it quite easy to get accurate fuel results haha.

I'm bloody new to this, Depends whether yours is an antilag one or laptop tunable one. I've currently just signed out a USB-Serial cable from work haha. What I did notice on the fuel table is that it tends to drop the value at the ideal idle rpm, so I told it to put a bit more fuel in, bam. smoother.

Though the factory reset tells it that its boost cut is 200kPa which is like 30PSi so I dropped it to like 110kpa, and I'm limiting at 10psi, so I'll slowly figure out what's wrong. but it's a work in progress. is your wideband wired into the ecu?

or is there already a place to wire it in on factory loom?

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 loner said:
Been for a bit of a test drive, the car is going much better since tuning. The Butt-O-Meter was very convinced that there is an improvement.

koom: BP98.

evowrx: don't know about cams unfortunately. Headers are stainless UL 4:1... no branding that I have seen.

Just seen the dyno plot, you are gonna have fun keeping that on the power curve on slow events, or it will be lag... boost... sideways out of slow corners! Should be spectacular to watch you tame it!

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 Munkvy said:
Just seen the dyno plot, you are gonna have fun keeping that on the power curve on slow events, or it will be lag... boost... sideways out of slow corners! Should be spectacular to watch you tame it!

It's going to be interesting alright. It's got quite a kick and I haven't even dared to boost it first or second yet.

I'm going to try my best to have it ready for the first HVMC autox on the 29th of this month... probably the worst

possible event to start off at :)

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 94 Leone said:
I'm bloody new to this, Depends whether yours is an antilag one or laptop tunable one. I've currently just signed out a USB-Serial cable from work haha. What I did notice on the fuel table is that it tends to drop the value at the ideal idle rpm, so I told it to put a bit more fuel in, bam. smoother.

Though the factory reset tells it that its boost cut is 200kPa which is like 30PSi so I dropped it to like 110kpa, and I'm limiting at 10psi, so I'll slowly figure out what's wrong. but it's a work in progress. is your wideband wired into the ecu?

or is there already a place to wire it in on factory loom?

I'm also new.. haha mine is a Laptop one also.

the issue you have there is all the MAP tables are absolute values, so always add 100kpa. so what you've done by dropping it to 110kpa = 0.10bar of boost. hahat. because atmosphere = 100kpa, so 100kpa of boost = 200kpa on the map sensor. the stock sensor maxes out at around 18psi anyway (manual says 18psi or there about) definately read the manual, it's good.

Possumlink can't use widebands at all, but my innovate has narrowband sim... but haven't worked it out as all it did was automagically make everything super rich... I also set my knock threshold value down to make it more sensitive, but i've heard that the knock control isn't very good on it as it detects things that it shouldnt. (getting it professionally tuned at some point)

Can show you my map that i've made just by roadtuning by being careful with a wideband..

actually it turns out you can just make a text file with all the information, here's a pastebin for anyone to read.

car is v2wrx w/ tdo5, yellow injectors.. sta aftermarket pistons which we assume are around 8.5:1 cr, dw200 fuel pump, stock fpr, 3" downpipe, china almost equal headers.

http://pastebin.com/JPB3JViD

(I just do a pull and get a mate to watch the AFR's.)

Edited by Sancho
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 loner said:
It's going to be interesting alright. It's got quite a kick and I haven't even dared to boost it first or second yet.

I'm going to try my best to have it ready for the first HVMC autox on the 29th of this month... probably the worst

possible event to start off at :)

I was planning on being there too, although with my diff playing up I might use the BMW instead. Need a hand with the car at all?

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 Munkvy said:
I was planning on being there too, although with my diff playing up I might use the BMW instead. Need a hand with the car at all?

Your diff will be fine... you only have 170kw remember :P

I'll let you know if I need help... think I'll be ok. Just need to put a new clutch slave cylinder in... maybe I'll replace all the hard lines too.

Possibly the brake booster as well. The brakes require a lot of force to work, and I'm not sure if it's due to low vacuum (due to cams), bad booster or track spec pads that need to be 300 degrees to work.

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  • Admin

Very nice. What'd you do for painting prep on the aluminium? Been thinking about doing a couple of bits on mine but everything i've read has said its quite hard to get the prep stage right to prevent it just flaking off later on. You use any aluminium specific primer?

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Cleaned up with white spirits (rocker covers in particular were absolutely filthy), prepped with white spirits and brake cleaner, then about three hours of masking for the manifold alone. Rocker covers were scuffed up with red Scotch-brite pad. The manifold was left as-is; I was working to a deadline and scuffing the surface with the pad looked to have pretty much zero effect, so I didn't bother.

Forgot to bring the prepsol from work.

I noticed that the last remnants of the factory red were on the smoother parts where the flashing was ground off, so for ideal paint adhesion you'd probably want to smooth out the entire surface of the manifold if you have the time and patience.

Edited by Zenki
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Na it was a TGV delete. The facelift JDM Legacy's had the whole motorised vane setup like the USDM ones. The motor was squashing the silicone turbo inlet a bit so figured it was a good excuse to go to town on it and smash it all out.

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    • MrSg9Sti04

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