mtbtimr

I am running STI Genome suspension from a WRX in my Forester STI. I am also running a Whiteline 22mm Forester rear sway bar. I noticed that I've cracked one of the rear sway bar mounts (somewhat expected from the stiffer sway bar). Looking into replacements for the mounts... Should I go with WRX mounts or Forester mounts? i.e. KBR18-22 or KBR21-22? Cheers, Tim Answered my own question with a bit more googling... WRX mounts won't clear the spare wheel compartment. https://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/911199-post8.html

Are you running stock end links with your 22mm bar?

My FSTI blocking the road on the weekend. Forester_STI by Tim Rutledge, on Flickr

Looking to pick up a rear strut bar for my SG9 Forester. 1. Who has used one in an SG Forester before? 2. What brand did you use? 3. Did you have to modify the internal panels to fit it? 4. How much of a difference did you feel? Cheers

SOLVED: https://www.scoobynet.com/suspension-12/1036204-drop-links-for-forester-sti.html

Need some front and rear end links for my 2004 SG9 Forester STI. The rear lateral arms are the same as a WRX STI if I'm correct but the sway bar is Forester-specific.. So should I be looking for STI end links or Forester end links? Is Whiteline generally a pretty safe bet? If I'm not going to be adjusting them, should I just get the stock ones?

Yep still looking. Those have been on TM since I started looking lol. Maybe I could use that as bargaining... Actually started thinking about doing some late model STI wheels instead to keep things stock, but all the ones I like are 5x114.3

Not quite the same, the D9rs have much more slender spokes. I prefer the look of the XD9s tbh.

I'm aiming for a WRB version of the red one... How's yours coming along? Still got it?

Yep, I'm going to print off a copy of the wording from the NZTA website to keep in the glove box.

So currently, the light bar on my Forester is wired up with a Jaycar relay kit that connects to the battery with a simple switch in the cabin. I can turn the light bar on and off at any time (even when the car is off). To comply with the rules, I want to wire it up so that the switch is still there, but the light bar will only come on when the switch is on and the high beams are on. I've done a bit of investigation and probing with the multimeter and I know that the high beams are negatively switched. Can someone please tell me how to change the wiring on the switch so I get what I'm aiming for? Cheers

Central Auckland

Bought the bits for a 2-way Deutsch DT connector from MSEL so I can make my light bar removable... http://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorsportelectronics.sf/en_NZ/?ObjectPath=/Shops/motorsportelectronics/Products/CONDT2KIT Awesome, quality product - highly recommend. Has anyone had experience with crimping the terminals without the special (expensive) crimping tool? I have a range of other crimping tools available.

So I’ve been running BP 98 in my Forester since I bought it. With the recent Auckland fuel tax, I’d like to know a bit more about the difference between Mobil 98 and BP 98... Mobil seems to be cheaper on average, and they do the smiles card which gives 6c/L off plus 1.5 ‘smiles points’ for each litre (equivalent to about 3c/L) so about 9c/L off every day. BP does 6c/L off every day with smartfuel, but regularly does 10c/L off. What is the difference? Is it even worth thinking about?