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  1. Haha I ended up getting one off an old Impreza from pick a part works fine only difference is it’s orange 🍊 thanks for the help m8 can cross that one off the list now 👍
    1 point
  2. Probably not. The evap valve should only open when the engine has vacuum and if the blocked line is going into the intake manifold... the evap valve opening won't do anything at all.
    1 point
  3. Hi everyone I’m new to the forum I’ve been a long time lurker but only now have had to ask for some help. Recently came into purchasing a very nice 2002 GT-B Limited and I’ve owned a few wagons and B4’s in the past but never a revision D which I’m 💯 percent sure this is because the headlamps are different and the vin check on legacypic.com confirms it to be all correct. problem is the boost isn’t quite what I would consider correct… Ive installed a boost gauge and I get on WOT 14-15 psi primary then valley o death comes in at the usual changeover point but then I only get around 12psi to redline and it seems to taper off. the primary seems too high and the secondary seems too low almost like the levels needs to be switched around The usual suspects have been looked into. No vacuum leaks, MAF Sensor is newish as this was one of the things previous owner mentioned gave him grief in the past spark plugs are all iridium’s and done within the last month that brings me to the latest discovery this morning. I know the boost restrictor pills on these cars play a very important role and the plumbing of the vaccum lines for this car is different than my last rev A wagon and found a diagram on here which has helped me identify a few of the pills My car has three pills from what I can see one in the smaller line coming off the blue T shaped connector between the blow off valve and manifold It has a small pill in the black box of death on line 2 (this was missing from a previous car so I know to check this one first) and one more in the bottom vaccum line between the turbo inlet and white T piece and line 23 All diagrams I can find show me there is supposed to be four pills and the one I am missing looks like the hose closest to the manifold but this diagram looks more like a revision A B or C cause the rev D has a big metal pipe to connect the hose to the blue t and bov im really confused cause if the diagram is correct then I’m missing a 2.0mm pill but if not then I’m at a loss to what could be creating erratic boost behaviour. Does anyone have the ability to just take some pics of their rev D vaccum hoses and point out which pills go where? Everything I look up just has older models like Bg and rev a b or c sorry about the long winded post I would really appreciate the help as I don’t wanna push this thing too hard it’s a great car cheers!
    1 point
  4. Hi all, im new here and I have just purchased a BG5 legacy with a 2000 Subaru forester single turbo motor. It still requires the V3/V4 3 plug single turbo ecu wired in. what I’m asking is if there’s anyone in Wellington that knows what they’re doing and would be able to help me complete the job. of course I’m happy to pay for your time. thanks, Fergus
    1 point
  5. You can probably do 95%+ of it yourself. Get the factory service manual for the car and the ECU pinout from the Link website for the appropriate plugin ECU. Then buy a big pack of those crimp+shrink connectors and a proper crimping tool and just match everything up.
    1 point
  6. Dam that sucks, Tried to keep my distance at event as work is way to busy for me to get the vid🙈. Not sure if work mates got covid the day before work last week or if they just wanted another week off😂
    1 point
  7. https://www.instagram.com/p/CnnShvEgwH0/ I've just Picked up a Fresh batch of 200x50mm CS Stickers these will be FREE for any Subaru tomorrow @ #hardpark2023 Trentham Memorial Park Upper Hutt '04' Subaru ROLL in @ 10:30 AM sharp! If you wanna Gang together from the Holdsworth Ave Entrance otherwise Public Entry is 12pm (lunchtime) and your on your own ❤ $10 per car $2 per passenger FREE to Walk into the grounds Any Leftovers will make their way onto our Online Store https://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?/store/
    1 point
  8. Meh still waiting to be approved to facebook page since yesterday 😂. 🤷🏼‍♂️
    1 point
  9. True that We are leaving the 04 end month so will be under the 06 area from start of Febuary.
    1 point
  10. Lol, is there a dedicated area for the club?, or is it a free for all for parking on the hardpark day
    1 point
  11. How many are going?, tempted to drive my old self down 😂
    1 point
  12. Great guide, trying to do this in my 2010 outback, but after sodering i do not get any sound, and i belive my harness is somewhat different. I do have the 20 pin connector to amp, but i only have one light blue cable in the DIN 20 pin and only one Amp, it have subwoofer in the rear. I have also testet this pinout guide, but still no sound. https://pinoutguide.com/Car-Stereo-Subaru-Suzuki/Subaru_Mclntosh_PF-40621_pinout.shtml Never mind, it was the remote amp from HU that was dead put it on ignition and voila Br from Norway
    1 point
  13. 1. Introduction. This thread has been made to store all the tips, tricks, and how-to's on the Legacy Twin Turbo, to single turbo conversion. The following content is based on my conversion, with some research from the ClubSUB forums, and other people who have done the conversion before me. This conversion applies only to the B and C revisions of the BG5/BD5 legacy, that have the EJ20R motor. It is not applicable to BH/BE's, or BG5/BD5 That have EJ20H's. Nor does it apply to the AUTO B's and C's as they have a single plug ECU that is not compatible with the single conversion (unless you reloom). However this doesn't stop you from gaining a bit of knowledge on the how to's of this conversion. I ask you to please read the entire thread through before getting started too. I will be assuming you will be lifting you engine for this, and assuming you know how. It will make life a whole lot more easy for you, but it isn't actually necessary. In fact, it's perfectly possible to leave the engine in for the conversion. Up to you. And lastly, this is only a rough guide, with a few pointers in it, not a manual. Please remember that! And from hereafter i'll be using "V3/4" to simple refer to Version 3 and 4 WRX's, and STi's, and Forresters with the same engine (EJ20K). Also, the source i used for defining what BG/BD models came with EJ20R's was here http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~ccgrant/leggymodels.htm I am pretty confident it is ONLY -MANUAL- GTB's and RSB's. First thing you'll need is a shopping list, expect to pay between $1500 - $3000+ for this, but with luck, that is ALL you'll spend. I've tried to list every last washer and rubber pipe and bottle of fluid, so you don't get any hidden costs, and can run a tight budget. Item's marked with an * are not required, but do make things go allot easier, or make your engine bay tidier etc. I strongly recommend getting everything on the list, and you will see more about them in the thread. A Version 3/4 STi ECU A turbo. Such as a VF22, 24, 30 etc. From a single turbo subaru. Single turbo Coolant supple and return lines. You can make your own Single turbo Oil return line (rubber pipe) There is a pipe from the TT system you can use, but it's short and cut's things fine. Single turbo Oil return line (Metal pipe in block) This will be one hard SoB to find, but you need it. Read stage 3 to find out more. (This pipe, to replace this pipe) Single turbo exhaust manifold. A 2.5L equal length one works too, and offeres better fuel economy. But you won't get that boxer rumble Up-pipe Downpipe. Caution: Some don't bolt up to the factory midpipe, such as the rage downpipes. Single turbo gear box cross member. Needed if you get a bolt on DP, not if you make your own downpipe. Single turbo up-pipe bracket. (the one by the turbo) Single turbo intercooler Y pipe. Anything from V3/4 and 5/6 will work If you get an STi intercooler with your y pipe, you need to find a V3/4 intercooler bracket, they are damn hard to find! Turbo outlet to Y pipe hose *V3/4 Intake manifold, complete. If you do not get a complete one, here is what you'll need for it: *Idle control valve supply line (metal thing that goes on top of the manifold) *BOV *BOV Return line/rockercover breather lines (Don't forget the little rubber hoses that connect it to the rockercovers!)(it's a metal pipe hudden on the underside of the manifold) Turbo Inlet/intake pipe Crank case breather line (I had to make my own) *Right hand fuel rail if you want to do the split fuel rail, more on that later 2 meters of vac line. You may be able to make do with the leftovers from the TT system. Budget for this anyway *Single turbo solenoid bracket (This is so you can replace the BBoD) *Pressure select solenoid (a 3 port solenoid from a single turbo, this is only to tidy up the wiring, you actually already have one in the BBoD that you can use - but it has a great big plug with like 15 wires.) Bolts to block off the primary turbo's Oil supply, return and coolant return lines on the left hand head Gaskets for: Intake manifold *Throttle body (only $3) Exhaust manifold Turbo/up-pipe Turbo/downpipe Coolant Oil Oil filter + Sump plug washer *Silicone radiator hoses *Silicone coolant hoses (nows a good time to replace them! .... DO IT!) And Budget an extra $200 for crane hire, and tools you don't have etc. If you wish to do the split fuel rail mod while you're at it (estimated cost, $150), which i recommend you do since the intake manifold will be coming off anyway, all you need is 8 feet of EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) hose. 8 ft really is just enough. A few hose clamps (6 should do it, you can reuse the originals for the rest) 2 T sections A second right hand fuel rail, with luck you picked one up with the intake manifold
    1 point
  14. I have figured out how to set the time on circa 2004 Outback/Legacy. Set the time: The Japanese Navi system sets the time via GPS settings to Japanese time. There is a setting in the GPS menu to turn off allowing GPS to set the time. Turn off this setting, then disconnect the battery and you will be able to set the time when you reconnect the battery and turn the car on. 1. Go into the Navi menu 2. Press the button on the far right – Configuration 3. Press the System button, highlighted on the bottom: 4. Scroll through three screens, then toggle the bottom option, Clock Settings, to off. I believe this is the option that turns off GPS from setting the clock: 5. Disconnect and reconnect the car battery so you can get the option to set the time: 6. You will now need to turn off the annoying voice assistant. Go to Media and press the AV settings button, bottom left: 7. Select the second tab at the top of this screen: 8. Select the Audio output settings button in the middle of this screen: 9. Set the Voice Assistant to Off
    1 point
  15. or punch him in the face, you know where ever the winds take you
    1 point
  16. Flat-nats 2016? The Legacy's still recovering from 2015 :'(
    1 point
  17. Positive RONA test Seems I'll have to order a sticker
    0 points


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