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cheers guys my rocker cover gasket was a relative breeze For anyone with a big engine say ej254 or ez30 I recommend this Koken quick spinner part no 2756 I got this from Amazon along with other Koken tools I used on this, love my 72 tooth 150mm flex head 3/8” ratchet! They’re priced pretty well and they’re quality. I jacked the engine up off the sump, all three engine mounts have to be loosened up. I found that the easiest way to get your engine to line back up with the mounts is do the top one first, use a screwdriver or chisel to pry it in place. Use lube and a gentle hammer if the bolt needs a bit of help getting in. but be smart! Don’t be like me and jack the sump up with cardboard. Get a bit of wood! I dented my sump. It doesn’t leak, is covered by the under tray, and is getting sold soon, so all good!

After much head scratching, trying different things and sometimes same things over and over, I’ve solved this problem! it didn’t help that the wiring diagrams - I’ve seen about three different sources - are have different wiring colours and don’t have repair/troubleshoot procedures. Meaning that I’ve had to puzzle together what info they’ve given and combine that with past knowledge and experience which isn’t that extensive. I saw this video at the start of the day, and thought I’d perhaps test this out if all fails. Because I was 90% certain that the tail lights can operate without the park light switch. my wires were orange and white with green stripe.

Spoiler

Edit: incorrect info removed. Drain is a normal bent pipe fitting 15-30 degrees. Still a few hose clamps not on correctly again after last visit.

Update stock Early GC8 wrx springs in a gc8 shock with gc8 top hats in a bc5 lower the car 25mm over stock. Perfect for what I wanted. Keeping it stock looking Looks tidy and even front and rear now.

Oh yo I didn’t know that, I’m not too clued up with the “sti” stuff, the struts were out of a 95 gc8 wrx, so yeah incase anyone is referring to this info in the future, and you are looking for gc8 struts that fit in a bc5 - if you have normal shocks match them with early non sti wrx normal shocks🤙💯 I think what went wrong with the super lowering is that because I could only get springs for a gc8 (couldn’t find any manufacturer that does bc5 springs) and the bc5 is heavier than a gc8 that’ll be why it went super super low, im going to try the stock gc8 springs in The new shocks on the weekend, definitely need it half way in between what it was and what it is now 😅

Depends on the age/model GC8. STI version 4 on used inverted dampers. Not sure about regular GC8 or WRX. What car did your GC8 dampers come off ? 60-65mm drop - yikes

Hmmm for some reason I remember there being a list of swappable Subaru suspension bits on here already completed- I might need to start saving gen 1 legacy info on physical printed paper before I get too old 😆 all sorted now anyway I ended up using measurements to cross reference so I’ll add to the list GC8 Front Shocks (complete) fit BC5 chassis (BUT) only physical difference is on the GC8 the springs taper to a smaller diameter at the top so the spring top hat (not the top rubber bush mount that connects to the strut tower) is different to the bc5 This is an important note for anyone wanting to lower a BC5 without getting adjustables as I was able to source brand new shock absorbers which happen to be the same as GC8 ones anyway (just the lower part) and top mounts but I could only find GC8 lowering springs so I had to buy a set of old GC8 complete shocks so I could salvage the top hats to create a complete shock that fit back into the BC5 chassis aa for the rears I think I’ll just leave them for now as it’s already got “saggy bum” 😆 man I hope this forum stays alive as there is important info on here - can I donate to help keep it going ? I tried to do it on the site but it won’t let me

I had a similar issue with my 91 a few years back - ended up being the actual hazard light switch. Not sure if it's helpful but thought I'd throw it out there just in case.

the most basic check is Carjam & sadly is appears from the public view I can see last WOF was 2009 https://www.carjam.co.nz/car/?plate=ARH135 so no, sorry not looking good sadly ❤️

I was the first owner of this car it came to NZ. I would like to know where this is now and if it is still a runner.

So EFR turbos are sensitive to pressure in the drain system. Eg if you have positive crank case pressure they will push oil past the seals. 14-60psi operating pressure 20degrees rotation from vertical You really need 12mm or larger drain and a larger diameter hose/pipe to the sump. Do NOT use banjo or threaded fittings for oil drain. -10an or smaller is suited to scavenger pump oil return like Porsche. 3/4 hose/pipe recommended a small oil tank under the turbo can help with frothing oil and cleaner return. Thinking of billet fuel filter with filter cove removed so has 50mm diameter chamber to allow foam to settle. More info https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo-discussion-14/psa-efr-turbo-oil-drain-information-read-before-designing-your-oil-drain-93944/ https://turbosource.com/blogs/news/borgwarner-efr-technical-installation-guide This may apply to newer garrret turbos as well. fittings https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32404284074.html https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33052615896.html Thanks to @Andy_Mac for putting me onto all this.

My EFR came with a really small AN fitting threaded into the drain. But then it was also #racecar so maybe doing some bizarre stuff us road car plebs don't have access to. I've gone for whatever the Subaru factory oil return is - 5/8"?

Skid factory video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJchCTVvjgQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfXxs7jxH88?t=354

Does the base of your seat feel loose on one side? Does the height adjustment only work on one side? Well, turns out subaru seat bases aren't as strong as they should be, and if you sit on them the wrong way, you'll bust the spot welds off the frame, leading to one side of the front of the seat squab flapping about. Hopefully it broke in a useful spot, otherwise I hope you enjoy being uncomfortable! 😛 Heres how to fix it, you will need; Socket Set 2x small bolts, washers, and nuts Drill + drill bits a bit bigger then the bolt threads Reaming tool Magnetic Pick-up tool Step one, look at this image, everything circled is important Step Two, Remove the seat There are 4x 14mm bolts holding the seat into the car (Circled in RED) you'll have to move the seat back and forward to get to all of them. Once thats done move the seat base as far forward as it can go, and the backrest to straight up to make it easier to remove the seat from the car disconnect the battery. Then disconnect the battery, press the brake pedal to disperse any latent power and you can then tilt the chair forward and disconnect the 2 connectors (circled in GREEN) Then carefully remove the seat from the car and place it on something soft. Step Three, Located your busted welds The two spot welds (location circled in ORANGE) that hold the front of the seat will have busted off on one side (or both if you're REALLY unlucky) Good Weld BAD WELD! Same from above, totally busted Step Four, Fix the weld. The bracket that has busted off, will be part of a assembly that hold the seat in place, and as its busted will be super loose. Every time i've seen it, the metal work holding the seat cushion is left with two nice round holes perfect for putting a bolt through, leaving you with the job of drilling holes in the bracket to match. Do your best to brace the bracket, and drill two new holes. Try to get them as central to the location of the welds as possible, but if you drill larger holes and use washers you can give yourself a bit of leeway Once thats done, use the reaming tool to clear out the left over material from inside the bracket, as if left you'll end up having to squash it when you tighten up the bolts, and as theres no easy access, you may not have enough torque to pull it flat. it'll still work, but you may have to go back and tighten it up again. Use the magnet tool to recover as much metal dust as you can that fell into the seat to save it getting into the mechanisms, and the carpet once you turn it back over. Step Five, Replace the seat You just removed it, do the reverse and you should have a seat in the car bolted down that doesn't flex, and you can now enjoy(?) the feeling of lifted thighs!! Make sure to test the seat through its full range of movement before you bolt it in, as if somethings gone wrong you'll both save having to unbolt it, but also if its loose you may get away with just making a noise rather then snapping something.

I don't think there is a thread to provide answers of what suspension fits what model cars, out of different models, so I'll start with one I just saw. Please only put something in here that you know is 100% legit. If there is another thread, then I've missed it.. oops! Mods, please sticky this into the Mega FAQ thread - http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?46299-ClubSub-Technical-MEGA-FAQ-*Beta* Suspension from a BD Legacy, fits into a BC Legacy, with a swap of the rear tophats.

you're welcome ❤️ hah I'm doing my best wit ha few others to make sure this info is never lost (again) and be on the internet forever hah

🙏 thank god this info is still on here, I finally have a bc5 which door beeper is working - will be doing this after work

So getting pretty over this now. earlier found hoses rubbing on things, latest was drivers side head breather kinked almost closed from routing and over tighten cable ties. car still has minor issue with engine and reasons given are all over the place depending on who answers the phone or question. ECU doesn’t support functions due to table limits Been told turbo is the issue and 2 in 12 new turbos have seal leaks. Still has hunting idle and rough spots at 1200 and 3k rpm

Koken stuff is fantastic. For worn or damaged parts try nut twisters I’ve used them on rounded suspension bolts etc and have worked well.

I really would like an SVX they’re amazing to look at and must be to drive too. Only an engine/manual swap away from unleashing the potential. Also after owning a BH9 Lancaster 2.5 I would consider something like an ez30/ez36-powered outback. They have a higher tow rating than the 2.5 and I really do like the practicality of the BH platform but would go newer possibly.

I dont think I joined until 2006 or so... Somewhere on an old harddrive are photos of my first 'cruise' up the Awitu peninsula with MattyC and a few others

does the GC8 have inverted dampers? The GC8 shock absorber part (lower part of the suspension) looks identical to the BC5 shock absorber. The only physical difference is the top hat for the spring. - this is for the front of the car - I havnt done rears anyway finished the fronts today and for some reason it ended up waaaay too low in the front haha, I used James springs which was ment to be for a 40mm drop - but it has dropped it closed to 60-65mm arggg, I might just put the stock springs into the new shocks I wanted to avoid coil overs so I didn’t need a cert now I’m going to end up spending the same amount on another set of springs 😆

Does the GC8 switch to inverted dampers affect what will fit in a BC5 ?

we've got 3k in the CS Bank to cover Forum Costs & its been steady for about 5 years now with Google Adverts turned on and the odd Subscriber : @ClubSUB.org.nz isn't going anywhere ❤️ but yep if its a Wagon ya want a bit more in the Rear & "most" up to V6? fits / is the same? : changing ya top hats? gen 3 leggy "Only" the fronts are Similar (they changed the rear Design & used way shorter shocks?

fliiipppp where is this list - cant find anything in the mega faq -_ -

No led replacement all standard im going to require the whole thing I’m over trying to find the issue lol

The blink rate is controlled by resistance. the relay works if the dash lights work. Well in most cases the flasher relay only has one output that is share t dash and external. somewhere in the wiring or at a plug the dash and external lights will split. after that point on the external lights side you have an issue. Also do you have led replacement bulbs?

Guess it isn’t listed as a part. usually it a small plastic part wth a spring. some cars it’s on the outside of the barrel and you can swap it over from another one. Under 83141 the cap see the rectangle cut out in the main part. That’s likely where the bit that is damaged is.

So ahh yeah 20 years ago around now was my 1st Track Day with ClubSUB @ Manfeild, Ronin won a Jacket & I scored a "Most improved" Wallet that's about my memory of the day so yeah was a bit nostalgic up in the Tower on the weekend watching FlatNATS '23 group taking off back in the day I used to Hire the track under my own name (maybe around 2006 or 7) and we did what we wanted pretty much same for Taupo, though we did get told off for a DIrtbike hah

You pretty much have to swap the auto brake pedal to manual one to fit clutch pedal for some or all the below unless you can go to LVVTA certification place and they say it’s all ok in writing. 1) it’s too close together for safe operation or fouls 2) it shares bolts or bracket with brake pedal 3) WOF will likely flag pedal of car is not automatic on next visit 4) drive shafts are swapped so while OEM are not original 5) your insurance maybe denied after an accident and they see the pedal 6) firewall is structural and weakens brake pedal mounts 7) firewall needs to be sealed so cutting and putting new holes is also red flag 8) some cars the firewall isn’t the same for auto and has less reinforcement Do NOT try and bypass or creatively interpret LVVTA rules. Always ask and get it in writing every time. Also any future plans or mods that go to LVVTA may cause issues. i certed my swap a few year later when did coilovers etc. mine was pretty easy as had all OEM parts and even a template for drilling the clutch master.

here's the Version I used and can verify on my old BC GT and BG GTB Thanks to Jahni for posting on FB

2022 and here's Possum Bourne Motorsports Blog post on the topic : (Flog a dead horse much) https://www.possumbournemotorsport.com/blog/technical-articles/subaru-closed-deck-vs-open-deck-blocks/

Well this forum says I joined in 2009 but I definitely signed up on the old old forum, which is where I bought my old '96 GF8 that started this whole sillyness. EDIT: Oh RIP just checked the plate and it was stolen back in 2018.

It was dereg'd in Jan' 2012, as above not looking great.