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Yeah at first I thought they had just worn out being made of cardboard and foam - but upon removing them they appeared fine with no noticeable damage, bench tested him to no avail, both didn’t respond to a direct input voltage even after refreshing the solder The factory head unit has tape and a cdplayer and it also has an aux input! (First factory bc5 stereo I’ve seen with an aux) So no need to update it, keeps it era correct - even the aerial goes up and down 😎

Inspired by all the great looking Outback's, I had to have a go myself. Full Legacy swap, with struts/springs front and rear, lower front control arm rear stud and backing plate, rear trailing arm spacer, steering knuckle, and removed front and rear subframe spacers. Unfortunately the pick-a-part rear struts are totally shagged, so i'll need to replace those, but otherwise dives and handles a treat. Sitting on TBC Jet 18x8.5 45p with 225x40x18 pilot sport 5's. I would have preferred 35p offset, but got them second hand for a good price, so can't complain.

Order red tail light tint. Clear tail lights with a dark coloured car isn’t the best look. Leaving the indicator answer reverse clear. though may tint indicator orange later.

GR is better in every way than the previous generation. Standard seats are comfortable, recaro option are little more firm and have better lateral support. They aren’t like the GC era curved ones though. the stock seats, like most unzip the covers at the back and you can add more foam or tighten or loosen the hooks between the frame and the spring net. This is true for most cars. door pillars make the chassis way more rigid. early pre face lift GR have higher and softer suspension. VA doesn’t offer much other than more tech gadgets like lane assist etc. GR key fobs cost way too much and the 2.0 JDM cars need a code from Japan to program. . there are plenty of wrecked part cars, and engine parts are just EJ so that’s not any issue. 2 vs 2.5 biggest difference is if you want rumble from 2.5 or fast turbo spool in the 2.

fitted blacked out side/wing mirror LED indicators. managed to unclip the covers and fit without removing the glass. need a little double sided tape or blutack to hold the 3mm wide foam weather seal that isn’t included, but pealed off from OEM ones. the plug pins are about 1/4 the width of factory so need to be aligned carefully. One sat perfectly, one was slightly out after clipping back, but that mirror has been bashed about before so maybe not the indicators fault. fits the 2007-2010 Impreza STI. use the part numbers listed and check against your chassis number in partsouq to see if they fit. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002266002926.html $15 plus gst

Fitted new gear knob not as nice as OEM one but leather stitching was falling apart. top writing on Chinese is directly printed on plastic. OEM one writing in on a layer covered by clear plastic. oem one also far heavier as metal core.

Did the foam surround finally wear out? let me guess the factory stereo has one of these in it? Or the newer Bluetooth ones

Removed the 35year old front door speakers that finally gave up (first time I’ve experienced a speakers quiet end of life) and replaced them with some basic JVC equivalents - sounds fine - installed a band expander so I can finally stop listening to Mai fm 😂. factory head unit still working! 😎 it’s the little things working fine that does it for me now, this BC5 is 35years old and everything works 🥳 and it flies through wofs - a whole different world compared to 10years of my last BC5

More standard maintenance stuff Oil Change. Reboot and grease my second inner CV. Now I'm good for a while I think. The stuff that's been in there for 150000km is very liquid. Try to find the thing that thuds clunks knocks when I turn slowly nearer to lock. I see that brake pads, strut tops and Center diff are possible culprits. Car drives mint otherwise

necro a dead thread time - 2007 grb sti on unopened w20c block 2.0L / PW intake / 3" downpipe and 3" greddy exhaust / 100 cell race cat / id1050x injectors / dw300c fuel pump / link flex fuel / 3port boost / link g4x v11 pnp / hks gt3rs turbo / hks spark plugs / orc twinplate after the factory one gave up going uphill in a passing lane its a "fun" street car - but have joined the chch car club cause I dont like tickets. I want to try roll racing and time attack with it if that is a thing down here... (edit - added engine size)

Controversial opinion but I'd rather have no sub at all than a half-assed one. Sink that same money into a really good front stage and call it a day.

You prolly found this by now but FSM's online at https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/

They are not wired through the clock spring like newer cars and have L R and common 3 pin plug so can be used on aftermarket ecu 5v or 12v as switches. if you wanted in a stock ecu car you could just wire a resistor to each and to the SI drive inputs. or maybe they will be water spray for intercooler.

Finally got some steering wheel paddle shifters for my STi. Is it auto.. no is it fitted with manual sequential box… no will they control boost levels and other things… yes Sadly realised all my special sockets aren’t here so had to order new trox for the airbag removal. So fitting it is delayed until they arrive. will order the wider plastic steering column cover once they are fitted. It’s 10mm wider per side. hopefully it’ll confuse the crap out of people looking at the car. Manual shifter with paddles too.

Hey guys, I've recently done a '15 WRX odometer/cluster swap into a Levorg and need to sort the km's out. I have had a bit of a look at the 93C76 chip on the back but realized my clip tool won't quite get it and my clunky soldering iron/shakey hands have no hope of transferring the chip onto a breakout board or similar. I am thinking that to send the cluster off to someone who has a hot air soldering station and an idea of how to read/write binary files is probably going to cost an arm and a leg. Has anyone had this done? Idea of cost? And where? I was wondering if I could instead, simply send a PWM signal into the cluster for a few days (300kph, more?) in order to let the km's slowly accumulate upwards. (I could add 7,200 km per day, so would have the change completed within the week) Has anyone done this before? Bonus points awarded for anyone who has a cluster pinout and knows the voltage for the speed signal. Cheers

So I tried the onboard method. As soon as I send 5v to the board, I can hear some faint whirring and clicking in the cluster but my chip reader doesn't seem to like it. Ultimately I think this just doesn't like being done in-situ. Yet to remove the contact points but I do wanna pop it back in the car to double check it functions as expected and I haven't burnt out the EEPROM somehow. The enamel that covers the legs of the chip is a PITA to take off! I will investigate the PWM signal method as I'm curious (and a PWM generator is $10).

a "Found" file that I think others might enjoy : https://makerworld.com/en/models/673850

This was damn near 12 years ago, I don't remember much 🤣 The thing I replaced was somewhere behind the dash on the passenger side. I think I had to remove the passenger side air vent to get the bolts. Can't remember exactly what I soldered. I think it had something to do with making the car lock/unlock with the alarm remote. It was two wires coming from somewhere.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/subaru/impreza/listing/4927230206 Big power 6-speed tranplant Tuned Link etc 410 whp on Ecopia tyres ??? 🤣

Hey bro, Currently have that same issue. Where abouts was your C/L unit and what two wires did you need to solder. Cheers bro surely a reply 😂🙏

Only a 9 month backorder for one of these EFR cartridges 😒

Turns out it is possible to DIY switch ECU's, at least on 2005-2009 leggies. Found an ECU with the same part # on e-bay then was able to code it to the vehicle using the instructions at https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/immobilizer-reverse-engineering-2005-obxt-probably-other-year-models.501753/