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Showing content with the highest reputation since 20/01/20 in all areas

  1. 5 points
  2. 3 points
    Currently doing a rebuild and found a few mentions of the short block part number Winger sells in these threads hopefully the information below clarifies any uncertainty for future buyers 10103AB470 - EJ207 semi closed short block only (oil pump kit not included) 10103AB470K - same block as above, but with the 10 mm oil pump kit (includes 10 mm oil pump, oil cooler and filter) 10103AB470K12 - same block as above, but with the 12 mm oil pump kit (includes 12 mm oil pump, oil cooler and filter)
  3. 3 points
    Found a filthy Zerosports deflector cheap on Trade me on the weekend. Finished restoring it at work today and couldn't resist putting it on. Totally unneeded for an outback, but it looks cool and matches the intake pipe 😛 Just need to find the Radiator deflector and my both my turbo subarus will have matching engine bay mods 🤣
  4. 2 points
    I think there's more like a 20 kw increase... as I reckon the 303 kw is from a previous run... the final tune looks to be under 300... but a few kws here and there is pretty meaningless... I think that extra torque will be good... and more importantly, I can (hopefully) use anti lag for more than 60 seconds at a time, as that makes a really big difference
  5. 2 points
    Maybe newsuba will lend you his Thesaurus.
  6. 2 points
    Old - Bastion Point New -
  7. 2 points
    You can actually get a good deal on riced out 20yr old sh*tters, they're usually so ugly your average buyer won't go near them for that reason. Matte spraycan home paint jobs, ugly wheels, done up interiors, cosmetic dents, bad taste mods can get you a cheap daily that would otherwise be 500-1000 dollars extra unmodified and have more buyers interested.
  8. 2 points
    I recommend GFB parts. Made in Aus, good gear.
  9. 2 points
    Shot guys! I think I sorted it drives like a dream now
  10. 2 points
    f*** those guys 😆 I want my toys now whaaa
  11. 1 point
    Eyeing up this WRX STI for my brother. Have been and inspected it and test driven etc. For peace of mind, we just want to know if it’s a legitimate STI or not. We couldn’t figure out by Chassis codes or VIN and it doesn’t help that carjam registered it just as Subaru Impreza. Any help? Cheers https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/subaru/impreza/listing/2502824226
  12. 1 point
    Hopefully not a whole lot, but thought I'd get it checked over whilst I have the engine out. Transmission is 5 speed but I'll look them up and also @Niran's suggestion, thank you both.
  13. 1 point
    Recently had to do a replacement of front left lower arm after hitting a curb. After the repairs, it started giving a small vibration if the steering is straight or taking a right curve in motorways. When doing a left curve, the vibration stops and its all smooth. The vibration is periodic maybe 1 second interval each. Vibration can be heard and can feel in the steering wheel. Its not happening at city speeds and I cannot feel anything at all. even till 80km/hr. It starts from 90km/hr. Apologies I didn't put all the info in the beginning as I am new here and thought the Forum might be inactive. Wasn't expecting a quick response. You rock! Thanks in advance.
  14. 1 point
    You are mostly wrong... diagrams and parts can be found here >>> https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/subaru?_s=h
  15. 1 point
    Those would be on the V3 onward, that one should have the 2 pot fronts with the 277mm front disc. Easy enough to upgrade if you wanted to
  16. 1 point
    I have owned both cars. Last year I owned a 3.0R Spec B, and now currently own a 2.0GT Legacy wagon. Both manual. I can honestly say that the 2.0gt is more fuel efficient off boost, period. But putting your foot down, the turbo becomes extremely fuel inefficient. This is because turbo engines must run a rich, high fuel mixture when boosting to prevent knock and excessive temperatures.
  17. 1 point
    The A/C is standard fit on STis, only optional on the RA. Theres a separate plastic cover for the ac compressor
  18. 1 point
    Badge on the front fenders is usually a good give away. Quite a few Sti's did come factory with fog lights so don't go off them. My type R is registered as a Subaru Impreza on carjam so wouldn't worry about that
  19. 1 point
    Done at ~186k so should be good for a few years to come
  20. 1 point
    Pricing is in from JMMS: Part # JMMS Retail + GST Group Buy Discount Total inc GST RCM2903 $934.98 $841.48 $967.70 RCM1203 $87.89 $79.10 $90.97 RCM2860 $1,374.98 $1,237.48 $1,423.10 RCM2428 $285.89 $257.30 $295.90 RCM3039 $109.98 $98.98 $113.83 RCM2003 $1,209.98 $1,088.98 $1,252.33 RCM1168 $147.38 $132.64 $152.54 RCM2857 $879.98 $791.98 $910.78 RCM1177 $1,099.98 $989.98 $1,138.48 RCM1765 $648.98 $584.08 $671.69 RCM2881 $1,429.98 $1,286.98 $1,480.03 RCM393 $327.80 $295.02 $339.27 RCM2965 $65.89 $59.30 $68.20 RCM2370 $131.89 $118.70 $136.51 RCM328 $659.98 $593.98 $683.08 RCM1676 $8.69 $7.82 $8.99 RCM306 $66.00 $59.40 $68.31 RCM3037 $50.58 $45.52 $52.35 RCM2428 $285.89 $257.30 $295.90 RCM3037 $50.58 $45.52 $52.35 RCM2761 $54.89 $49.40 $56.81 RCM3039 $109.98 $98.98 $113.83 Sub Total $9,019.93 Total $10,372.92 @ginganinja @Andy_Mac @Gripless @IZichard @RaKid can ya'll get back to me if you're keen? He'll need a 50% deposit too
  21. 1 point
    The applied model code for GF8-015083 is GF8C58D (build date 21/09/95) which comes up with this https://legacypic.uk/identification/index.php?appliedModel=gf8c58d So yea, seems to be legit. It has the correct seats and door cards, and the centre boss with with STI embossing is uncommon. I'd check the engine numbers to see if they match as who knows whats in it as it looks like its been modded a bit given it running the wrong expansion bottle and they've removed the A/C. Otherwise, looks pretty good
  22. 1 point
    Possibly shielding wire, but most shielding I've seen is around the sensor wire. CAS is something that would need shielding. Unsure if factory or not, but those crimps are used in factory looms. Being unused could make sense for a shield (grounded at the ecu).
  23. 1 point
    Those guys charge like wounded bulls on crack.
  24. 1 point
    Thank you all for the help. Sorted now so i do uust have to change the disc into 326mm size.😅
  25. 1 point
    double barrelled fail; 1. seat covers for a porsche is verboten, 2. car is photos is definitely not a macan or anything from stuttgart. 😝 https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/interior/seat-covers/listing-2502488293.htm
  26. 1 point
    Old - Manukau Cruising Club New
  27. 1 point
    Fitted a Cusco Brake Master brace today, again overkill for an outback, but I had to tutu with the at least a little bit over the long weekend Also got the WRX cleaned and WOF'd. Its been months since I drove it last, i'm just glad I remember how to drive a manual!
  28. 1 point
    I've never used Tapatalk before, thought I'd check it out to see if I can replicate the issue. Seems to work for me. Perhaps remove the ClubSub group and then rejoin? Sent using Tapatalk
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    What revision? There are differences between revD and the rest
  31. 1 point
    Sweet. Would like confirmed pricing for items on my list before I give the go ahead to order.
  32. 1 point
    Anyone on here that knows how to program a remote for the Tribeca. I got a spare key programmed, which works fine. Immobilizer etc. However, the remote programming is not that same as the Legacy on which it is based. I can't find the white connectors to put the car into the learning mode for remotes. The key itself looks exactly the same as the Gen4 legacy key There is a procedure published all over the internet that involves opening and closing the door and turning the ignition on and off a few times. This does not work on the NZ Tribeca it seems. Also that would mean the remote needs an 8 digit code for pairing purposes. Which none of the remotes here seem to have. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
  33. 1 point
    Just go OEM Subaru parts not worth the risk for $100. And make sure that $900 quote includes tensioners and idlers as well
  34. 1 point
    Yes sir, its allgood i guess ill try again but yeah im fine with the web at the moment
  35. 1 point
    That’s the one.
  36. 1 point
    I'm interested in one of these RCM3039
  37. 1 point
    The whole pickup or rubber boot thingy. I added one to my order. basically everything in the kinder topic is on order. pending that slow @Niran guy.
  38. 1 point
    A-line is 5x114
  39. 1 point
    The rubber part is available as a spare part, so if you feel capable taking off the trim, you could replace it. The part number is 91713AJ000
  40. 1 point
    Mine is all sitting with James ready to order. not sure how long I can wait though as need those parts to finish the build.
  41. 1 point
    Hey @sjase, Not sure if you've sorted this out yet but if not my advice would be to get a quote from them for sure. Alan won't actually be doing the work as he's on the Auto Electrical side of things but their mechanics are still good and they will use genuine parts too. But yeah, definitely get a quote. I got quite severely shafted by them when they did my cambelt. I didn't even consider getting a quote as they had always done my work. Even though the bill included a set of rear pads and 1 rear wheel bearing it came to $2400. That one hurt haha Anyway, good luck!
  42. 1 point
    PBMS YouTube channel has just put up footage from the 2019 event https://youtu.be/UdNIolIjUa4
  43. 1 point
    In short, I did a thing and Bought @Furze car, CHOPDU. It's been sitting for a while, unfortunately, as it's had a few electrical issues and as such projects need to move on. SO! It's going to get stripped and parted. While I'm certain I could fix it and get it back up and running in no-time, I don't have the funds to keep it (which I very much so want to). So, as such, I'm picking it up this weekend and next week I'll begin the process of take all the parts off it to get ready for sale. There are a few goodies I'll be taking my way and with that the RA gets an upgrade! Things to change over are - v7 STi 207 w/ Supertech dual valve springs - Spec C intake manifold (no TGVs!!) - Murch HX35 turbo setup - MCA Red custom valved suspension - 114.3 hubs (swapping these as they were recently replaced with new bearings on all corners) - Dixcel Z Type Pads (F/R) and Dixcel slotted rotors (F/R) - Oil catch tank setup Everything else is going and I'll have a TON of work to do.
  44. 1 point
    That and I want low and mid range power with good spool so mild cams should work. the 1mm oversize should allow more flow with a lower lift and the valve train won’t have harsh profile to deal with. So no valve float at higher rpm. it’s all a guess and won’t know how high I can rev it until the tune. With stock valves B cam is good for 600hp. I can always swap cams and/or turbo out but valves etc need way more work.
  45. 1 point
    "... a lovely original example ... " NOT 😂😝🤢 https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/honda/auction-2369241161.htm
  46. 1 point
    Some very nice cars in here. Spending time in there is a good way to get tempted into lightening your wallet. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
  47. 1 point
    Tunnel run Photo credit: https://www.facebook.com/freshnchips/
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    Need some more of this... For the wagon fans...
  50. 0 points
    Tried but yeah still can not do anything on tapatalk. Algood just going to use web haha thank you jokee