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  1. 7 points
    God, where do i start? Tuesday finished work at lunch, parked the car in the empty bay at work and tore the entire front end of the B4 apart, engine, gearbox, front subframe, arms, everything, all out. It took all Wednesday and Thursday swapping over whatever i needed from the Rev D motor to my Rev B motor from my old Legacy while also doing an ST conversion. Worked Friday so no work done on car. Saturday was 2 trips to Te Puke (Roughy an hour from me) to visit Jeremy from Subiedoo Spares to get bits. got the new front subframe all put back together and put engine and gearbox onto it. This morning slid the drivetrain under and lifted into place. fit everything. fit rev D intake and basically got the car running. Runs pretty badly because the top mount isnt on i havent sorted a couple vac lines but runs. Found everything different between the rev B and D bolt ons. Honestly didn't realise how much was actually different between the two engines and if i didnt have some parts already as well as the motor that came out to steal hoses and sensors from this wouldn't have been possible. @A_J_T I cant thank you enough. You've been great dealing with my random texts to explain the ST swap to me. I definitely owe you a beer. Car currently only has a down pipe on and sounds absolutely vicious but cant go on the road till the exhaust, top mount and brakes are sorted so at work it stays. 10/10 would not recommend with the time constraints i had and the fact that work had to be delayed on the car because i couldn't get some parts due to public holidays. However 10/10 would do again. It was fun.
  2. 6 points
    While I don't disagree with you, because honestly, the money factor you're spot on. I can't say I completely agree with the statement either? There is most certainly bonuses to going either route. There is however, downsides to them both as well. Cost is certainly the top factor. So lets start here. Stock STi upgrade. The good: Good well rounded package that gives you extra punch at quite a reasonable price. simple upgrade route. other than bolting/plugging in what you've been given, that is it. Hard to stuff up. The not so good: you are talking about old injectors, and old ECU tech. My suggestion if you want to go this route is to make sure everything is cleaned and tested, for example. Have the injectors cleaned and flow tested, and make sure the ECU you're buying HASN'T been opened (theres a factory seal on em). Wouldn't be the first time someones tried to hock off a faulty ECU because they didn't know what blew up their engine, so parted out. G4+ upgrade route The good: you can get plug-in ECU for your gen car! Makes putting in an ECU very very easy. There are also second hand ones coming up for sale all the time. Often in the $800 ballpark, so try not to pay more than this if you're buying second hand. They also have lifetime warranty. It opens up aftermarket parts for your car that simply put, the factory ECU cannot handle. ECU controlled widebands, Flex fuel, better knock control, anti-lag /2 step / launch control / automatic DCCD control / logging You want extra sensors? You can add them. You want an AVCS engine from GRB? You can do it (with doing some wiring of course) Downsides. Brand new it's much more expensive than the cheaper STi upgrades. Plus the factor of professional tuning. Theres no doubt what Boon has said is right. You will need to get the car tuned, be it by someone like @Pappu1 or @SAS OR if you're quite savvy and have patience to learn how to tune yourself, properly, you could buy a course package from the likes of HP Academy, where you'll learn the ins and outs of tuning. Then you can tune that puppy all by yourself. Summary: You need to think intensely about if you want to do more things in the future or just keep the car as is. If you want to do things the stock (or STi) ECU can't handle, then honestly a Link or Haltech may be your best move long term. If you just want to give it a freshen up and some more punch, then the STi upgrades are definitely a winner. Regardless, if you do the STi upgrade and then decide 'hey I want more' theres absolutely nothing stopping you from getting that Link anyway and still getting more power than you would've originally.
  3. 5 points
    Devil's advocate? Putting in a G4+ and getting it tuned won't see any change from about $2500. Lot of money to throw at a car that literally won't make it any faster than a boost tap would. Get a VF23/24 (or even a VF30) and a STI ECU and set of yellows as above. About the best you're going to get out of it; you're so limited by about 20 different things that make a G4+ not worth the investment unless you have big big plans down the road.
  4. 3 points
    I would say forget the EBC and wideband and put that money into stuff below. You definitely should save for a Link, but I would do a turbo, STI ecu and injectors, if you get a recon set they should be fine. The upgrade of turbo will make a big difference, especially going from TD04 to TD05?Vf??? I went from TD05 to VF8 (close to TD04 size) and noticed the power difference/drop. Once you have the turbo/ECU in the car, enjoy the increase in power and save for a Link and tune. This way you won't run out of turbo as quickly as you would with the TD04 set up with a Link. Also I have a spare set of yellow injectors if you want. *note: someone more informed than me can give advice on VF turbos
  5. 3 points
    Upgrade to a 94 Sti Ecu, STI VF28 /VF23 or similar and yellow sti injectors and be done. Should be able to get all second hand for good price.
  6. 2 points
  7. 2 points
    Thank you for the reply, this makes a lot of sense honestly, and since i really cant see my own car passing 300hp I think this is a much better idea. I think you could honestly do most of those mods for the cost of a g4+ alone ($1350 ish to my understanding)
  8. 2 points
    Going to a TD05, STi ECU and Injectors is a really great suggestion. One I'm considering doing to accompany my manual swap so I can have a bit of fun in the meantime before committing to a Link. would you run into any issues running the stock boost control with a TD05 bolt in? or maybe its just a case of the PSI being really low from factory, and its fairly safe?
  9. 2 points
    for my 2c worth. A 'cheap' way would be a TD05/VF??? upgrade, and something like a Z4 ECU, maybe injectors a not sure what yours runs. that would be a budget conscious build with out adding boost controller, from memory it peaks at just over 13psi, i had this combo in my BC5 and it was enough for me for a while.
  10. 2 points
    Ok so I solved the issue and not sure what was causing the problem but here's how it went. Removed each injector and reinstalled them. I figured that at least this would mean fuel would leak into the cylinder and hopefully fire. Bingo. Engine purring like it should. Not sure if there must have been air in the system or what but it's running mint now.
  11. 2 points
    http://ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals https://www.scoobynet.com/general-technical-10/777689-jdm-sti-gdb-ecu-pinouts.html Heres the link to the manuals and the forum post i followed. I double checked all of the OPs instructions before doing it and traced all the wires back to make sure i didnt fry my link lol. All ive gotta do now is configure the ecu to use the factory spec c iat instead of the one that people use when they splice into the maf sensor temps. Then extend the wires from the watersprayer to the boot and check that works with the manual and auto function. Anyways no more time to work on my car, ive got rally cars to prep for the upcoming season, fab work doesnt get done on a keyboard (and not much time to do so might i add)
  12. 2 points
    Figured out the issue, turns out the ecu pinouts are different between the jdm and UK. I just had to depin and swap over 6 wires, took me ages to find the two different service manuals. But its pretty simple to swap the pins over.
  13. 2 points
    A kind gentleman gave me his v7 OEM pump and fuel sock for free yesterday! Had done 230k kms, but really had no other choice so chucked it in. So basically removed the intank fuel pump assembly twice in two days. Such a crappy job on a GDB! Here's to hoping i never have to do one again lol. Also.. drove a supercharged RS4 B7 today... HOLY DAM! Basically as fast as my v11s peak torque but instantaneous and everywhere. Freaking insane lol
  14. 2 points
    Yeah, a moving part that can't be checked... but the one I saw had a fairly substantial bearing that will see very little load... will hardly move much at all... just gently sway back and forth with g-forces... and oiling shouldn't be an issue
  15. 2 points
    True. Was just making sure he didn't make the mistake of getting that one haha
  16. 1 point
    Hi guys I'm just doing some research on which way is best to go to make more power. A balance between cost and reliability really, big power isn't really a goal of mine. I have a my94 wrx with an open deck block and td04. I plan on upgrading to mls headgaskets and possibly bigger oil pump and just refreshing seals and gaskets when I do the timing belt and wp, nothing too flash. I've read that stock my ej20g can handle 14 psi.. I'd like to get something around that, but how best to do it? I've been looking at electronic boost controllers and widebands as that sorta stuff seems to be midrange, but a plug in link g4+ seems to be the way to go in terms of power potential reliability and efficiency. Ideally would like to keep my td04 just because single scroll.
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    Partsouq parts diagram may help. Chuck an RA chassis number in and see what comes up.
  19. 1 point
    If reading NZPC and CS has taught me anything a Link will always be on you watchlist & I reckon (because its not my money yet) just got for that, removes most worry & doubt from the equation either way I see a Dyno in your future to make sure everything is working as it should also F for Follow with my Gravel Express also
  20. 1 point
    Will be following this thread with interest, As I too would like to know these things. I have an Automatic 1996 220PS wrx gravel express, would love to know what kind of power I can safely run on the stock Ej20G open deck(is 260-280 a safe estimate?) At the moment my plans are Manual swap it and get a Link g4+ with a TD05 upgrade, currently rocking the TD04 factory. Not after massive power just want a nice daily, I hear the TD05 kicks in a bit later, might help fuel economy and top end. TD04 is responsive and pretty fun in the low end though. Would also like to look into a turbo back and intake at some point, though i am hesitant to install these before getting a G4+ so i can safely tune for them, as i dont wanna harm my engine.
  21. 1 point
    Yes, Thanks for all the replies. This weekend (if I can get into the workshop) going to test the up/down o2 sensor and have a look at the AVCS. From what I can gather on the AVCS, there is a banjo bolt, two gaskets, and a filter that could be causing the rough idle. Going to change engine oil and filter just in case as well.
  22. 1 point
    Pull the AVCS solenoids out and check for debris from the banjo filters collapsing. Ensure that the solenoids can move and put them back in. Very common issue causing rough idle/low rpm running. Pulled mine out and the filters were stuck in the solenoid mechanism jamming it at high advance.
  23. 1 point
    Hey mate I have an old 99 SF forester that I do a bit of off-roading in mines an NA Manual, I chose the manual as it had the hi/lo ratio Id have to say its VERY impressive off road only thing that limits mine is its not lifted at all so ground clearance is sometimes an issue Occasionally I find a bit more power would be great especially on some steep muddy/rocky slopes In some ways an auto might actually be better off road as well as the hi/lo range isn't actually very low... if your going for an auto SH series i would probably get the XT just for that extra power.. Hope this helps
  24. 1 point
    For the shift linkage and pivot bushings a guy called corgiwerx makes hardened replacements which will help a heap. Or just grab some new factory ones from partsouq.com The pivot bushings made a heap of difference on mine. Almost completely removed the large distance side to side slop. https://www.facebook.com/CorgiWerx/
  25. 1 point
    https://www.facebook.com/SASworkshop/
  26. 1 point
    Depends how far you’re willing to go. @gotasuby is the south island Subaru expert tuner. He might be able to point you to his next best competitor closer to where you are if travelling to CHCH isn't a possibility.
  27. 1 point
    $1200 is alright for down those ways. Make sure they're using OEM parts and not cheaper alternatives though
  28. 1 point
    Not a bad idea for the pick up. Might get one without the pick up since I already have a new one sitting around. https://rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk/store/product/790-rcm-oil-pickup-anti-surge-adaptor
  29. 1 point
    Seems easier to just make a wider pan if you can fit it in. Make bolting them up a pain but it can’t slosh into the heads. some wide v8 pans are like that super short bolts and open end spanner take ages to good up but big volume increases and v bottom so oil awaits around pickup. Must be a good custom pan though. This is NZ so we do DIY more than buy since not the volume of sales to support off the shelf designer parts.
  30. 1 point
    I have seen a subaru sump on a saker that has a rotating pickup... so the oil can't get away from it.
  31. 1 point
    RCM have EL sumps as well, I have one. Last time I was in need of a sump, they just said to get an RCM sump and be done.
  32. 1 point
    Actually I think the water is sucked back down through the turbo into the engine... but the effect is the same... turbo continues to have water flowing after engine shutdown. Thermosyphon. Early engines used it for cooling all the time... no pumps were used.
  33. 1 point
    Everyone is entitled to their own opinion. But everything would fail with a high impact. I don't think there is much to discuss, all of these have been successful in high horsepower applications.
  34. 1 point
    Does your car makes nasty scraping sound when you wind down the windows, or maybe you've got scratches down your windows already? The issue is caused by the buffers the window is secured by getting worn and full of ingrained dirt like so; You'll need; * a Subaru with frameless windows (any will work mostly the same way, but this guide is for BP/BL Legacies) * socket set (mainly a 10mm) * medium JIS/Philips screwdriver * small flat head * old toothbrush * graphite powder (i got mine from repco years ago, but you can also get it from Mitre10) Step 1; First start by putting the window down. Once you've removed the door card you wont be able to without having to replug it, and thats a pain you don't need to bother with. Remove the door card, you'll have 3 screws, one behind a panel behind the chrome door handle, and two behind the door pull trim. For the one behind the chrome door handle, first hold the handle open and insert the flat head in the small opening at the top of the panel behind the handle. Try to push down to flex the panel and it should pop out. The door pull trim is a pain to remove. It is probably the hardest part of this whole thing. You'll need to pull the top of the handle towards you and kinda twist it in the direction of the dashboard. (if looking down at the handle on the drives side twist Counter-clockwise, and for the passenger side twist Clockwise Then there are many clips, lift the card up and clear of the door, and disconnect a couple of connectors. To disconnect the chrome door handle, open the hatch, unclip the two actuator cables (the top one for the lock, the bottom for the handle) from the housing and rotate the cable so the ball at the end can be removed from the handle Step 2; You'll have two metal backed buffers (green) on the inside of the window that are held in by one 10mm bolt, and two plastic backed buffers (blue) clipped on the outside of the window that you remove by pulling both sides in to unclip it. If you have the Mcintosh headunit make sure you don't drop them as the door is covered in sound deadening and will be a pain to reattach neatly. Step 3; Restore the buffers. I used a flat head screw driver to lightly pull up the pile, being careful not to damage the pile or the backing material. Once there is nothing left flattened get a old toothbrush and carefully brush it to remove the dirt. You can try wetting it, but i've found that just causes it all to clump together. Before; After; Once it looks clean you should add some graphite powder to the buffer to aid as a lubricant (you don't want something wet like silicon as it'll leave a trail on the window, and also hold dirt and make it fail again all the sooner. Step 4; Reinstall!! When you removed the inner buffers it should of left some witness marks to where it was installed at the factory. Try and put them back where they were and it should hold the window nice and secure. Otherwise reassembly is the reverse as removal. Once its back together make sure the window will go up and down and the door will shut and you should be done.
  35. 1 point
    Merry Christmas to you too! My spoolie boy is quiet and easy to forget so I should be fine On a more "what I did to my car today" note; I noticed my headlights looked dull in the horn photos, so polished them to be clear. Didnt realise how bad they were til you've done the first one and you're standing there comparing them
  36. 1 point
    One of the most popular threads so smashing this in here. Many of you will be finishing up work and getting ready to kick back and spend time with friends and family. Remember to take it easy out there on the roads team, think twice when you are stuck behind a camper and eager to bring that spoolie boi online to pull a savage overtake. Its better to arrive late than dead on time. sit back, take a couple breaths and enjoy the ride and look out for one another. Wishing you all a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
  37. 1 point
    Wait til you see how people put front mounts in front of the Rad it’s gonna blow your mind
  38. 1 point
    The way I looked at is that there are much higher strung cars then mine, in much warmer countries running them and they're fine. Also most modern cars take the bulk of their air flow through the vent below the numberplate. Also they are spaced about an inch away from the radiator, and that should allow air to flow around them rather then stopping flow completely. Having them out in the open does make a difference. Stock my car has shell horns which normally would be quite loud, but they're hidden down in the wheel well behind the bumper.
  39. 1 point
    if you ordered your calendar, its in the post! We still have stock, so get you orders in and we will get them out to you!
  40. 1 point
    fixed also : she's come a long way Baby! (paste your IG link & this new forums software displays the post)
  41. 1 point
    Gave it a wax. Came up real nice Need to sort that paint damage at rear wheel though
  42. 1 point
    Sooooo bought another project car for a heck of a deal. She's been a very tidy car in the past (if you know the previous owner). But now needs some serious TLC. She'll serve me well while the 450kw build happens Not sure about the wing haha. Might swap it for a standard one. They are worth a bit of coin though!
  43. 1 point
    That and I want low and mid range power with good spool so mild cams should work. the 1mm oversize should allow more flow with a lower lift and the valve train won’t have harsh profile to deal with. So no valve float at higher rpm. it’s all a guess and won’t know how high I can rev it until the tune. With stock valves B cam is good for 600hp. I can always swap cams and/or turbo out but valves etc need way more work.
  44. 1 point
    Could be a boost leak, or maybe vacuum - I'd suggest checking all boost and vacuum lines especially around intake manifold and intercooler.. You could have a bad hose that has a tiny split in it. The line to the gauge is an often overlooked culprit too.
  45. 1 point
    Ordered to pay by the disputes tribunal. I have already printed out an enforcement order application just need to fill it out and send it in but figured I'd talk to my uncle about it first (partner at a law firm). I'll be going and seeing him this weekend hopefully so I'll let you all know what he says Sent from my SM-A530F using Tapatalk
  46. 1 point
    "... a lovely original example ... " NOT 😂😝🤢 https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/honda/auction-2369241161.htm
  47. 1 point
    Install Link ecu and get dyno tune. Best mod for classics. Your old mans type R has close ratio gearbox and short diff ratios so you wont beat him in a drag. Only chance is to beat him with top speed but that needs to be on track for obvious reasons..👍
  48. 1 point
    Massively slow to the party here sorry. Mine was exactly the same sadly. I ended up having to buy a complete Macintosh head unit w/climate control to replace it. Massively frustrating, being that the part that failed is worth almost nothing 😂
  49. 1 point
    Yep + 1 on the adapter method, nice and easy to troubleshoot too.
  50. 0 points
    Got the top mount on today, fixed vac issues, found why it was miss firing, turns out the cam sprockets are different between rev b and d so swapped them, re sort timing, got it running mint. Gave it a rev and smoke everywhere. Turbo doesnt sound good either so that's just another thing I have to replace, fml. It's actually so bad that apart from the exhaust being off it's the only thing preventing me driving it home. Have sorted a VF30 and better top mount just need the funds. Sent from my SM-A530F using Tapatalk