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Bug: Singlescroll / Subi rumble - great sound An acquired taste, looks wise More lag - but also more of a hit in your face of boost (slower than a blob) Cheaper Blob Twinscrool / no rumble - tuned sound, but can also sound pretty brutal with a the right exhaust (preference really) Look way better IMO. v9 blobs are probably the nicest looking subi Way faster spool compared to the blobs. Absolute joy to drive on the street when tuned. Still one of my favourite cars of all time More expensive Probably will hold their value more than a bug

Order red tail light tint. Clear tail lights with a dark coloured car isn’t the best look. Leaving the indicator answer reverse clear. though may tint indicator orange later.

fitted blacked out side/wing mirror LED indicators. managed to unclip the covers and fit without removing the glass. need a little double sided tape or blutack to hold the 3mm wide foam weather seal that isn’t included, but pealed off from OEM ones. the plug pins are about 1/4 the width of factory so need to be aligned carefully. One sat perfectly, one was slightly out after clipping back, but that mirror has been bashed about before so maybe not the indicators fault. fits the 2007-2010 Impreza STI. use the part numbers listed and check against your chassis number in partsouq to see if they fit. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002266002926.html $15 plus gst

Blob gets DCCD too if you care about that. V9 Blob also gets 5x114.3 PCD for far better rim options, slightly wider track (I'm pretty sure anyway) and a slightly more modern interior.

Not that bad really. Leaking schraders and valves in general aren't exactly uncommon in refrigeration and a decent cap with a new seal or just thread tape is often the solution. The plastic caps on these may not seal perfectly well with age as they can become brittle but worth a shot putting a new viton O-ring into it to keep the cool juice where it needs to stay

If you're lucky it will just be the valve core, which, assuming it's definitely a standard Schrader valve, will be straightforward to replace (other than all your refrigerant escaping while you do it). If that doesn't solve it, you have to do the whole hose, the valve is an integral part of it. There should be oodles of them at Pickapart/your local wrecker, although finding one that hasn't been butchered while someone was getting at another part might be the harder part.

Inspired by all the great looking Outback's, I had to have a go myself. Full Legacy swap, with struts/springs front and rear, lower front control arm rear stud and backing plate, rear trailing arm spacer, steering knuckle, and removed front and rear subframe spacers. Unfortunately the pick-a-part rear struts are totally shagged, so i'll need to replace those, but otherwise dives and handles a treat. Sitting on TBC Jet 18x8.5 45p with 225x40x18 pilot sport 5's. I would have preferred 35p offset, but got them second hand for a good price, so can't complain.

You prolly found this by now but FSM's online at https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/

They are not wired through the clock spring like newer cars and have L R and common 3 pin plug so can be used on aftermarket ecu 5v or 12v as switches. if you wanted in a stock ecu car you could just wire a resistor to each and to the SI drive inputs. or maybe they will be water spray for intercooler.

Finally got some steering wheel paddle shifters for my STi. Is it auto.. no is it fitted with manual sequential box… no will they control boost levels and other things… yes Sadly realised all my special sockets aren’t here so had to order new trox for the airbag removal. So fitting it is delayed until they arrive. will order the wider plastic steering column cover once they are fitted. It’s 10mm wider per side. hopefully it’ll confuse the crap out of people looking at the car. Manual shifter with paddles too.

Hey guys, I've recently done a '15 WRX odometer/cluster swap into a Levorg and need to sort the km's out. I have had a bit of a look at the 93C76 chip on the back but realized my clip tool won't quite get it and my clunky soldering iron/shakey hands have no hope of transferring the chip onto a breakout board or similar. I am thinking that to send the cluster off to someone who has a hot air soldering station and an idea of how to read/write binary files is probably going to cost an arm and a leg. Has anyone had this done? Idea of cost? And where? I was wondering if I could instead, simply send a PWM signal into the cluster for a few days (300kph, more?) in order to let the km's slowly accumulate upwards. (I could add 7,200 km per day, so would have the change completed within the week) Has anyone done this before? Bonus points awarded for anyone who has a cluster pinout and knows the voltage for the speed signal. Cheers

So I tried the onboard method. As soon as I send 5v to the board, I can hear some faint whirring and clicking in the cluster but my chip reader doesn't seem to like it. Ultimately I think this just doesn't like being done in-situ. Yet to remove the contact points but I do wanna pop it back in the car to double check it functions as expected and I haven't burnt out the EEPROM somehow. The enamel that covers the legs of the chip is a PITA to take off! I will investigate the PWM signal method as I'm curious (and a PWM generator is $10).

a "Found" file that I think others might enjoy : https://makerworld.com/en/models/673850

This was damn near 12 years ago, I don't remember much 🤣 The thing I replaced was somewhere behind the dash on the passenger side. I think I had to remove the passenger side air vent to get the bolts. Can't remember exactly what I soldered. I think it had something to do with making the car lock/unlock with the alarm remote. It was two wires coming from somewhere.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/subaru/impreza/listing/4927230206 Big power 6-speed tranplant Tuned Link etc 410 whp on Ecopia tyres ??? 🤣

Gearbox oil change yesterday with my 4 year old while my 1 year old was napping. Took off the intercooler to make my life easier for the filling. "Hmm that's a bit more oil than usual, better start saving for a new turbo" Got the funnel in the Gearbox fill point. Pour the oil in at a glacial pace so it doesn't burp everywhere. All good ~3L changed just like last time (5MT). "I'll just check that PCV valve....Ah buggery" When I did my turbo inlet swap in February I must not have seated the line from the tee to the PCV valve in properly and it has been disconnected with the line venting to atmosphere and the turbo inlet. I haven't exactly stayed off boost but it explains the bit more smoke I was getting when sometimes getting on it. If I have melted a piston I haven't seen any evidence so I will call it a lucky break.

Bad news if you have a Cobb plug in tuner etc. I’d be keeping it offline and not updating anything. https://www.justice.gov/opa/pr/united-states-reaches-agreement-cobb-tuning-products-clean-air-act-violations https://www.epa.gov/enforcement/cobb-tuning-products-llc-clean-air-act-settlement The consent decree contains the following compliance requirements: COBB Tuning is prohibited from manufacturing, selling, offering to sell, or installing any aftermarket defeat devices. COBB Tuning is allowed to continue to manufacture and sell products, including its tuners, that are covered by an Executive Order from the California Air Resources Board demonstrating that the products do not increase emissions above allowable levels. In addition, COBB Tuning is required to: Remove any delete features from its custom tuning software and, to the extent possible, force updates to end-users to remove the delete features; Destroy any defeat devices remaining in its possession; Cease providing technical support for any defeat device products; Deny all warranty claims for any defeat device products; Instruct authorized dealers to no longer provide technical support or honor warranty claims pertaining to any defeat device products; Revise all marketing materials to strike any information relating to replacing, defeating, bypassing, or rendering inoperative any emission control; Not sell or transfer any intellectual property associated with any defeat device products; Revise all marketing materials to strike any information relating to replacing, defeating, bypassing, or rendering inoperative any emission control; Notify authorized dealers and known customers of any defeat device products of the settlement using specified language that informs the authorized dealers and known customers that the products at issue violate the Clean Air Act; Notify COBB Tuning’s officers and employees of the Clean Air Act prohibitions using specified language which explains the Clean Air Act’s defeat device prohibition; Request that COBB Tuning’s employees forfeit any aftermarket defeat devices in their possession and require that its officers forfeit, permanently delete and uninstall, and destroy any aftermarket defeat devices in their possession; Require COBB Tuning to offer to buy back any defeat devices possessed by COBB Tuning’s employees, which COBB Tuning must then destroy; Conduct a Clean Air Act compliance training for COBB Tuning’s officers, employees, contractors, and consultants.

Hey bro, Currently have that same issue. Where abouts was your C/L unit and what two wires did you need to solder. Cheers bro surely a reply 😂🙏

Could make that happen If you ever up this way.

If I had the money I'd go Blob too ❤️ lower K's & ever so slightly newer tech / mechanicals wouldn't kicka a nice Bug out of the Bed though either hah (Prodrive bumper looks neat on these

I'm in the U.S. and bought a new Shrader using the US part number for a 2000 Legacy, it fit, but also leaks. Apparently there are a few different valves that are similar to one another, but different in the way they seal. I've ordered and assortment of R134a Schrader valves and will see if there is one that fits and seals properly. All the refrigerant leaks out in a day or so by itself currently....but I can do a vacuum test at home to see if they leak, wish me luck. Also, it looks like the low side hose (complete) is still available in Japan....if I must I'll replace it. Thanks for the help!

Without looking (And I've never been down this track) I'd say a fairly common 'off the shelf part' for most Car's made in the last 40 years aye? Probably best bet call into a Garage, workshop or who ever you're going to get to recharge the system? though sounds like you're a DIY'er might like to look at this thread I found on Reddit 97 RAV

Aww I was going to be cheeky and ask for a ride now it's been tuned. When did you move back up north? I actually did some work on my WRX for the first time .. a while. - new O2 - new handbrake shoes - new coolant hoses Going to start getting it ready for Flat Nats in Oct.

Turns out it is possible to DIY switch ECU's, at least on 2005-2009 leggies. Found an ECU with the same part # on e-bay then was able to code it to the vehicle using the instructions at https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/immobilizer-reverse-engineering-2005-obxt-probably-other-year-models.501753/

So I finally fixed this problem. After it was said that it is more than likely to be the C/L unit than the motors I decided to replace that. A short trip down to the Takanini PickaPart and $16 later I had one from a wrecked bg5. I was surpised to see about 5-6 of them there. So I replaced the unit and wah-lah I had central locking again. But it wouldn\'t lock/unlock with the alarm. Following this thread http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,27921.0.html I soldered the two wires and bang everything was working like it should. ...Apart from the infrared key lock thing. But oh well don\'t need that anyway. Hope this helps someone in a similar situation. Cheers.