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ok sweet, I found the original O2 sensor wire extension under my seat so its all good to go. The exhaust is pretty straight and 3 inch all the way to about an inch before the genome muffler so it cuts out the bends and flanges so airflow should be okay even if it does have the restriction.

Not sure really. I went to an obnoxiously loud 3" (not a straight pipe mind you, it has a muffler and resonator) and it made more power again, but we changed a couple of other things. Would it have made >230kw with the old exhaust and those things changed? Not sure. What I'm getting at is that a smaller (or at least, constricted design) exhaust is definitely a significant restriction at those power levels, whereas a freeflowing 3" didn't seem to be. Nope, no difference. Make sure the loom is long enough. On a V7 the O2 sensor should be at the bottom, if it's at the top you prob

Another question, The exhaust from the donor car has the o2 sensor in the 'post cat' area of the downpipe (if there was a cat) but on my car the o2 sensor is at the very top of the downpipe. Will it matter if I move the o2 sensor from top of downpipe to underneath the car without screwing with the tune? I doubt it matters but wanna be sure. Neither exhaust has a cat.

What would be an acceptable loss for a not so restrictive set up though? Surely just about any setup would perform a lot better with the axle back section removed, maybe not so bad on a relatively straight through single exit V7 setup but the overly convoluted later setups must surely add noticeable restriction even when pushed up a size.

Yes, exactly that, literally without removing the car from the dyno. Ran the car up and it made like... 236 or something, tuner was like "I suspect your exhaust", unbolted it at the mid-pipe and did a pull and it made 250-something.

so you've gone from a 26/27 pair to a 27/27 pair? other than that sorry no useful imput from me oil pressure could / should be the same yeah?

So you couldn't make more than 230kw... and you swapped the rear muffler only, and then you were able to make more than 230kw?

Smoke coming from the turbo itself, wut? Sealant on the compressor plate isn't going to make it smoke. 1.5mm is on the larger side for a ball bearing turbo, I believe the standard ones are 1mm? But also unlikely to actually be an issue. Did you re-use the copper washers on the oil and coolant feed banjos, and if so, did you re-anneal them?

I'm gonna be a pest and say it's probably too restrictive for 250wkw, from memory those Genomes aren't big mufflers, like.... 2.25" or something. I had a 2.5" Zerosports on mine and it became a limitation over about 230wkw.

Ok sweet. I might go ahead and swap exhausts over. The genomes are reasonably quiet but when you hit boost it wakes up and sounds pretty good with a 3 inch before it.

extremely unlikely to be too restrictive.

Long story short I have a second V7 Sti and the exhaust is a 3 inch catless turbo back with a sti genome tip (whole exhaust is one peice with no flanges). It sounds really good and wondering about putting it on my black V7 sedan. My question is would the genome muffler be too restrictive as my black v7 is tuned to 210wkw. Potentially going for 240-250kw in future. Would it allow for those numbers?

Hi all, looking to get to the bottom of this... Have a BH5 legacy, had some major play in the vf26 that was in it so got a cheap vf27 and swapped the CHRA from it over (http://www.subyclub.com/topic/5276-diy-convert-your-tt-primary-turbo-to-ball-bearing/), however every time i've test driven it, there seems to be smoke coming from the turbo. I've done some reading and founds that the BB cores require much less oil/pressure than the journal bearing, which is what the original turbo was so could possibly be too much pressure? I've checked the oil feed banjo bolt size and

Yeah, you just might need to watch out for boost creep, but like Loren said, even just a check-up on the dyno to be safe.

For a road car I would just put it on and forget. If you will be going to the track, a dyno check is probably a good idea... won't need a tune I bet, just a safe check... shouldn't cost much more than the dyno bolt up cost.

Hey all Was just wondering if I needed a tune for the following: I recently had a dyno tune done on my WRX on stock Downpipe. Got some nice gains and came out around 302bhp. Been wanting to buy a Blitz Exhaust but they are over $1,000 and in looking a few of my friends recommended the following exhaust https://ppdperformance.nz/products/subaru-wrx-sti-turbo-back-exhaust-with-catalytic-converter Good price for a very nice sounding exhaust and even comes with Downpipe. However, I don't want to put the Downpipe on if it would cause probl

So I'm looking at getting the timing belt and associated parts changed so I'm wanting to confirm what parts are required so that I can source them. My vehicle is a 2009 BR9, chassis BR9-003770, 2.5L, EJ253 Can anybody who has been through this process advise me what parts list I would need. I haven't been through this parts process for quite some time, so can anybody advise if there is an online database of sorts so that I can look up the parts numbers for all the bits I need? Thanks heaps!

Soooooooo Update time Its been slow going as been flat out building Motorsports Wiring looms, and finishing my Personal car. But We stripped it all out... Much Better. Also For all those Wondering. The entire Interior from a GF3 Excluding Seats fits inside a RS4 Avant. Who would have thought it. Who can resist Fitting the Seat and making some engine noises. Also Finally Got it off the Steelies, Got these nice 15" Rims for a happy $100. The Budget Rally car continues. This weekend, Weld in a Harness bar and the Harness plates in the floor. Still foc

finally Caught up on your Gravel express thread, So epic! Let me know if you got any parts that would be useful you want out of your Shed

Yeah true. I’ll clean up the whole area and keep an eye on it. thanks for your help!

pass : bit new for me it is accumulated vapour over the years eh could hope its part of the same accumulation etc

Haha thanks @Joker, “normal” is semi-reasuring 😁 Tonight I’ve removed the PCV valve and it’s pretty gunky and barely rattling. So I’m thinking I’ll replace that and the whole hose assembly - PN 11815AB213. Any idea about the other side of the block and the sender looking thing?

I recently imported my dream bh5 in the purple/ blue colour, auto ej206 which I'm fine with, it has 49,000 k"s and upon inspection it has had a centre decat and muffler delete and a back box from zero sports. It's a rev C from 2000 and I'm looking to get a base tune or Remap. I contacted possum bourne here in auckland but they are unable to tune the rev C ecu for some reason? Would anyone be able to point me in a direction of a tuner in auckland? Someone also mentioned on here about project lambda, I was wondering if anyone has had experience with them and if it's worth it. Thanks guys!

"Normal" Blow by recirculated by the breather valves / PCV? everyone gets a shock when the pull the TMIC off for the 1st time like that then you'll think about a Catch can or 'Oil Air Separator' etc

Can anyone please help with fix and parts advice? Vehicle is a 2002 WRX. The top of the engine underneath the TMIC and throttle body is coated in oil and grime. the car doesn’t appear to use any oil and there is no oil being dropped on the ground. There is a noticeable burning smell coming from engine bay after semi-spirited driving. Car otherwise runs well although idle feels a bit on the slow side once car is up to temp. On inspection after removing TMIC it looks like there are two leak points. 1/ the collection of hoses on the driver side that relate to