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  3. After much head scratching, trying different things and sometimes same things over and over, I’ve solved this problem! it didn’t help that the wiring diagrams - I’ve seen about three different sources - are have different wiring colours and don’t have repair/troubleshoot procedures. Meaning that I’ve had to puzzle together what info they’ve given and combine that with past knowledge and experience which isn’t that extensive. I saw this video at the start of the day, and thought I’d perhaps test this out if all fails. Because I was 90% certain that the tail lights can operate without the park light switch. my wires were orange and white with green stripe.
  4. & there's a bunch of threads about e-tune eh : some links : even one from NZ Hondas : https://nzhondas.com/topic/105060-difference-between-gt-b-and-gt-b-e-tune/ and LGT.com : https://www.legacygt.com/topic/103980-gt-e-tune/
  5. "Everyone" that was a member of the old forum has the same Join date in 2009 as that's when this version went 'live' ❤️ thanks to @funkytown @Odie at the time iirc sorting the structure out
  6. I don't think Rev D got E-tune badge aye (they phased it out) I'm a BG5C dude (newest Subaru I've owned was a 1998 2ng Gen 'Revision C" etc) '01 does seem a bit early for a Rev D though? here's an earlier "Rev D" Thread if you've not searched Google (that's how i found the link LOL (or the forums ❤️ ) and I stand corrected : according to Wiki 2001 was begining year for Rev D ❤️ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Legacy_(third_generation)
  7. Hey mate thanks for the info. BH5D is there. So that’s helped me determine now what I have. I wasn’t sure as the e-tune badge was missing lol. When I brought the car it was advertised as just a legacy wagon. I feel lucky knowing I have gotten a better deal now. Do you know where I can find the badge for sale? And it came with an Sti genome muffler, but it’s so quiet I’m thinking of switching it for something else.
  8. Last week
  9. 4th "Digit" means its a Revision D (best) to have they say) eg BH5D on your ID tag is king : that's what the Chassis / your car is 'E-tune' means "Nothing" tbh just a fancy Dealer / Subaru marketing
  10. Well this forum says I joined in 2009 but I definitely signed up on the old old forum, which is where I bought my old '96 GF8 that started this whole sillyness. EDIT: Oh RIP just checked the plate and it was stolen back in 2018.
  11. Hi there, new here. Recently bought a 2001 GT-B wagon. I’ve done some research and having trouble determining what exactly I have. Things point towards an e-tune gen3 rev D model. It doesn’t have the e-tune badge but has other things that say it could be. LIKE THE SPECS Tag in the engine bay.says BH5D5CD. But still unsure. Can anybody help me out?
  12. ahh bugger I always skip that part & I was waiting for someone to pull me up posting the 'wrong' Rego too hah
  13. It was dereg'd in Jan' 2012, as above not looking great.
  14. the most basic check is Carjam & sadly is appears from the public view I can see last WOF was 2009 https://www.carjam.co.nz/car/?plate=ARH135 so no, sorry not looking good sadly ❤️
  15. I was the first owner of this car it came to NZ. I would like to know where this is now and if it is still a runner.
  16. Relay is likely next to fuse box and lots of relays are the same so you can borrow another one for testing.
  17. Thanks for your reply @Gripless I’ve tested it with all the bulbs in after checking that each bulb/holder works. Yesterday I hooked up the +/- of each bulb to a battery to test and they all worked. ive checked the rear plug and the one under the dash, the wire at both plugs show the same result. So thus there isn’t any voltage from the front. I really think it’s an issue with the switch. Or relay as you suggest. it could also be the park light switch on top of the column, perhaps that needs to be connected to complete the circuits. I don’t know which relay it is Lol, I’ll go over the diagrams with fresh eyes. Are you testing with all bulbs removed on the tail lights? Maybe one side has a short or corroded. If you can test at the plugs under or near the rear seats. That may tell you if the issue is at the front or rear of the car. If you have voltage there then the issue isn’t the switch or fuse box damage.
  18. Are you testing with all bulbs removed on the tail lights? Maybe one side has a short or corroded. If you can test at the plugs under or near the rear seats. That may tell you if the issue is at the front or rear of the car. If you have voltage there then the issue isn’t the switch or fuse box damage. WI-12 check relay for tail & illumination fuse 12 two V wires on a1 b2 Wire WG on D12 1v on a digital multimeter could be a faulty relay as it’s an average reading over maybe 0.5 seconds. If a relay is very rapidly connecting and disconnecting the average can be a low voltage. Analog meters or oscilloscope you can se the voltage swing around the other option is something is grounding that out and your multimeter is only seeing some of the voltage. you can test a relay with a 9v battery in many cases outside the car.
  19. The drain pressure will build up until the area under the bearings and the tiny gap the oil goes through is all under pressure from crankcase. Then any vacuum in the intake or low exhaust pressure will have more effect than gravity.
  20. Possibly also had a dry sump on the engine since racecar so that removes the size issue. And yea standard is 5/8 @Gripless surely at some point though it's spinning slow enough to not get all frothy and whatnot and kinda drip down rather than flicking all over the place
  21. Mine is stock drain sized from the outside, but it’s the crankcase and head vents to the radium AOS that seems to be the cause. I may remove the drain and check the gasket isn’t blocking things at some point. Most likely I’m going to find the AOS breather and plumb it back to the intake for some vacuum.
  22. My EFR came with a really small AN fitting threaded into the drain. But then it was also #racecar so maybe doing some bizarre stuff us road car plebs don't have access to. I've gone for whatever the Subaru factory oil return is - 5/8"?
  23. Radium pretty much comes down to don’t combine PCV and head vents. So all those running single catchcans for all things will have issues. https://www.radiumauto.com/Blog/Post/New-Product-Release-Subaru-AOS-and-Oil-Catch-Cans-103 https://www.radiumauto.com/Blog/Post/Catch-Cans-101-102
  24. Turbo oil seals aren’t what keeps the oil in. It’s a spiral cut in the washer or shaft are designed to fling oil back towards the middle to controls oil leaks. This was a part of Haley Davidson early bikes to solve oil issues. Not sure they invented it but they made it popular. The slower the shaft speed the worse the oil leak will be as it can’t fling the oil away from the seal. Think of it like a pump, slower it runs the less oil it can move away from the seals. 3/4 is only a help if the crankcase pressure is good. They other 2 videos cover that as well. last one even adding the catch an to a system can raise crankcase pressure to the point it pressurises the drain no matter the size.
  25. Only watched the first one but definitely makes me want to commit to making a custom 3/4 drain setup. Long idling is an interesting point too. I let mine idle for a considerable time so could be a factor in all of this also. Though mine is worst during decel where the raves are still up there a bit so shouldn't be slow enough to not be slingin’ I was thinking about this the other day and whether going to an e-gate and having it fully open at idle would help at all or make things worse. It'd either slow the turbo down so much it barely spins and possibly reduce the need for the slinger at all or just make it worse since it won't be doing anything
  26. Turbo drains cut away, with oil issue causes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGSoe-sZcXk Oil issues jumps to timestamp for Crankcase vent https://youtu.be/X9pzZCFXrV4?t=226 even CV hose length causing issues. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KopDR9A9uas
  27. Hey guys I’m chasing electrical gremlins with no luck thus far. my tail lights do not work. The brake lights do, so do the number plate bulbs that run off the same circuit as the tail lights. I did have a leak in the tailgate centre garnish, so siliconed it up. The bulb holders got a bit corroded so I got in there with a rotary tool and replaced one that was Too far gone. New bulbs too, but the old ones still work. my car was recently stolen and recovered, I haven’t tested the light switch which could’ve been damaged? But they did wreck the column and the park light switch that sits atop it. I haven’t tested this circuit but I have managed to press the switch against its contacts and made the relay click but haven’t seen the lights come on. Ive found that the tail light power wire has >1 volt at the connector at the rear. This is also the same at the connector behind the under-dash fuse box. I’ve checked all relays - not properly but can hear em click - and my fuses are working. But I need some advice as I’m missing something..
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