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Don’t you measure resistance on the iac solenoid pins to see if the coils are still intact and measure the same. also if you still have AC what happens when you turn it on, Does it still idle faster and slower again when AC off.
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Hmmm yeah not sure, when car is on the IAC sensor receives 13.8v on the middle wire which is normal I think. It only faults when I decelerate for a long period (I.e down a hill) then it goes into low power when I accelerate more than half throttle the first time after the deceleration, then the check light turns off and it drives fire until the next deceleration
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Time to pull out the multi meter and measure resistances. But doesn’t the IAC share some wiring with the o2 sensor maybe the old sensor blew a fuse or one of the ignition relays.
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Subaru Related 3D Printer Files & Links and Show-off Thread
Joker replied to Joker's topic in General Vehicle Discussion
came across these "Paid" files Spotlight Cover's : Headlight intake's etc not cheap BUT I thought some were neat https://cults3d.com/en/design-collections/GiaoPX/subaru-impreza-gc8 -
codes cleared took it for a drive and code 24 popped up again after about 10minutes, wouldn’t let me boost fully and went all slowy Idle Air Control looks like I’ll be pulling it out this weekend
- Yesterday
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I didn't do it today, but quite a few months ago lol. I finally figured out my shutdown issue on my Type RA. The issue was it would start fine, run perfectly during normal even spirited driving. When I'd go on track at say manfield, and start giving it some absolute spanking, about half track point the car would completely shutdown. I'd have to key off, and then key back on and away we'd go again. It was repeatable and I couldn't figure it out for the life of me while at the track. So, replaced the battery because A. it was old AF and dying easily. Thought it resolved issue up until a couple months later I was at a gymkhana event here in hastings and it died under, again, heavy load, but this time the battery light was now coming on. Sure as heck, I checked the voltage output on the alternator and I am getting bubkiss. Quickly dip home, pull out a crappy old looking spare alternator I had, remove the old alternator, and the terminal for the positive is absolutely COOKED, with the nut literally welded itself to the alternator... Slap this new alternator on, and rush back to do the last runs and fixed. Now to just do a cambelt/idler change as these are due.
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Max joined the community
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Thank youuuiu 🙏
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https://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/2366-manually-reading-ecu-codes/ has clear codes process in the post.
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I managed to find an o2 locally, fitted sweet and plug matched, $100, looks like it come from aliexpress originally haha. arrived today. Installed it and took it for a drive. No check engine light, but the codes still showing when checking ecu memory, I’ve forgotten how to clear codes on the obd1 system. So I can clear codes and take it for a long drive to see if anything pops up. I’ve got green plugs and clear plugs under the steering wheel. clear plugs together shows the codes through the flashing check engine light, green plugs together doing nothing. Am I forgetting something?
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Nicks joined the community
- Last week
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When I got my BBS wheels they came with 225/45-17 Goodyear F1's - an absolutely awful tyre, in a totally wrong size for a GC8. Rub-dub-dub and raised the overall gearing enough to take the edge off performance. Switched to 215/45 tyres - much better response and grip. 215/40-17 was even better, lowered the gearing enough to make the car feel like it had an RA
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Hmmm, I have inherited a 1999 SRX, could totally replace the o2 with no real repercussions.. tempting.
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FYI https://www.jdmgarage.co.nz/products/7307 these originally didn’t come with the rubber grommet and used the factory style spring c clips. They are bendable and just mount under one of the knuckle bolts. Being open at the end means you can move the lines without unbolting things. I had them go through LVVTA many years ago without issue.
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Well most things are made in China. Buying locally it’s likely the same sensor with more middlemen markup.
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Would you trust an AliExpress sensor?
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Yeah the newer ones are all 4 pin. All basically the same but the sensor or heater is grounded via the sensor housing in 3 pin. Ox336 checks out listed for 89-93 BC ej20 for both SOHC DOHC and turbo or NA. Aliexpress https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006776700268.html or https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004475249658.html around NZD $25 plus $16 shipping and they add gst etc at checkout.
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22690AA700 Has a different plug from 👀 my at photos ox336 is one of the part numbers I’ve found that look the same in the pics 💯🙏
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Use partsouq with your chassis number as the search, don’t even need to log in. under engine cooling section, there will be exhaust section, and then tap on the short number for sensor and it’ll popup the Subaru part number and any substitutes. The Subaru part numbers seem to match Denso You can aliexpress a part number as they list Subaru part numbers Or generic search https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-Denso-o2-sensor.html
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Thanks man You’re a legend ! the one that’s in there is a 3wire/pin ill order the part direct from a subaru supplier ❤️
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If it helps the newer one is Denso 22690-aa850 from sti 4 pin sitting on the table. Which makes sense with part numbers… 22690AA850 from GR 22690AA700 from BC5
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Had a check engine light today - yay - however I’m quite used to this haha - codes are 24 / 32 / 33 looks like It needs the ISC cleaned out / replaced and an o2 sensor Have Had worse news 😂 edit: o2 sensor is flogged, has been badly wired, cross threaded into manifold and tip damaged anyone have the part numbers for o2 sensor ej20
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Replaced front pads with some dba extremes, took them for a break in. Not keen on the colour clash with the yellow. Will see how they go.
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Ordered steering shroud plastic that fits paddle shifters. ordered rear hatch release button ( dual button version) 63270FG011 since it is more goo than rubber now.
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It will be the width. GC8's don't like 225 wide tyres without rolling gaurds. Even though rolling diameter is the same due to offset the wheel has moved 7mm further out and then the tyre has gained another 10mm in width to the outside. Go to a 215 tyre and it will likely be fine. If you have lowered suspension this will make gaurd rubbing even worse. I am running 215/45R17 tyres on ET53 wheels and no rubbing at all. The 22B also has HUGE gaurds compared to a stock GC8, making room for the extra width.
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I'm fairly sure a 2006 Legacy is coil-on-plug so won't have coil leads? Could be heaps of things. Boost control solenoid on the way out, ECU pulling boost due to detecting a fault.... does it idle nicely? Could be a miss...
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