All Activity

Got more curious (I'm about 15k from replacement myself) and found that Partsouq has a better price for the kit albeit with a GMB pump (no Aisin or Yamada option). Amayama has less OEM substitutions for things like idlers. Ordering from both could get you a good deal for a properly OEM kit. I priced my lot up in the ball park of $700

A Subaru dealer's parts counter will often supply a Cambelt Kit with Water pump and Thermostat pretty promptly if you don't want to wait. Pretty on par with Partsouq's individual pricing. Amayama is cheaper but you have to wait longer. Water pumps can have up to 3 extra ports depending on application so you might want an idea of how many yours has if you are buying that part individually.

Not so much a kit but if you bought all the bits from Amayama it would likely be much cheaper and all genuine parts. You just have to know what you're shopping for.

Kia ora. I'm going to replace the cambelt etc. on my old 2.0 NA DOHC BP5. I want a kit that includes a water pump. Any tips on the best place to get a decent kit gratefully accepted. Thanks!

As far as TCU tuning you’re probably limited to CCT as I’m not sure any of the others will get into that side of things. Tony and Dave at DTech are legends and unbelievably helpful with dumb questions and support so they always get my vote but not sure they will do TCU stuff

+1 for SAS https://www.facebook.com/share/1BmSrbYsZj/?mibextid=wwXIfr

'New car' = WRX 30 in 2026 remove engine & drop off to mechanic, they disassembled & heads have returned from testing, all good, waiting reassemble then most recently "Old" car (Avenger = 50 in 2026) 'everything' Diff pinion seal nut & bolt check, wheel bearings brakes trans seal + screen, tran mount & bushes, swaybar link & bushes Struts strut bushes rocker seal carbs

I can't remember seen any auto sti making 300whp on PBMS dyno, any hub dyno will read higher. I would say that more important that places are the people, in this case the tuner. On companies where the tuner is only an employee (not the owner that has always been the guy tuning at that company, for example), you can go to the same company and get 3 different results, because there was 3 different tuners over the years. The experience that someone had with a tune here at PBMS 3 years ago, may be very different to what you get now, because is a different tuner, same company same dyno different result. Just to keep an eye on that.

Haha I'm not trying to be stuck on a number. What I want is a TRUE 300whp. I don't want a 280whp feeling that reads 300whp. I want a low reading dyno that would say 300whp

November shows. Cold is coming Thursday for Thanksgiving and looks like it is going to stick around! Some pretty col cars in here including some $MM Ferraris. Nov 2025

SAS too but they're in Christchurch. There aren't heaps of tuners and you've basically listed them. EDIT: Still stuck on that 300whp number eh. Make sure whoever does the tune is happy to fudge the TCF to get you a number that makes you happy.

Hey guys Just wondering what everyone's opinions on tuners here in NZ are. I've read a lot of conflicting advice from different sources and am unsure where I want to go? I've had experience with WRC, Prestige and D Tech and they were all great in their own way! I've also considered CCT and PBMS. So, regardless of location as long as it is North Island, where would I be best to go? I'm looking to just take my 2010 STI (auto) to around 300whp and get a TCU tune too

My spare engine was sold as head or piston failure. When opened the factory hashing was still on the bore and everything was within spec, The real issue was a cheap nasty external wastegate that when closed had a 1mm gap. There are some special mechanics out there. Or they just want the big dollar repairs to do engine swaps.

How the heck does someone conclude "cambelt snapped" without visually confirming the snapped cambelt ;/

Bought another Gen 3 B4 a while ago as a non runner "cambelt snapped". Turns out all it needed was a starter and a good charge. Got it a wof yesterday. now to decide whether to sell it or keep it. 4 cars might be a bit much though

Dropped car off at Macbuilt for an alignment after the steering rack install....quite like the new quick-steer, definitely a nice improvement and will need a little practice drive before I start throwing it around because its definitely a different feel. Also getting gearbox/diff oil changed and wheels swapped from the dirty old 17x8 Rota Grids to my 17x7 Rays B20's...looking forward to that and I'll be interested in the weight difference. FYI the Rays are 8.05 kg (without balancing weights). Should be a nice drive home this arvo.

Today's tasks: Axles with fresh cv boots reinstalled. Threw on some Whiteline sway bar locking clamps while I was under there. Also ordered gearbox and diff oil in preparation for a fluid change. Hot tip, Palmside has Castrol Transmax for like half the price of Repco... Also, Sundays job was fit off rear strut brace, only a little stressful cutting into the trim, but end result was good. Also installed new wing mirror controller.

Playing catchup again from yesterday...test fit of rear factory-option STI strut brace....confusion over orientation of strut mount plates...so further research ongoing due to complete absence of solid info before I start chopping plastics. Also sourced a small bottle of colour matched paint and tested on a couple of decent stone chips...not going to say a factory finish but definitely takes the sting out and will hopefully stop any rust starting at least...great use of my ultra fine tip artists paint brushes that I bought to refurb the orange dial paint on my Lamco gauges Also got around to figuring out how to install an STI boot logo on my headunit...very important job.

Replaced boost controller and hoses with new parts so that I could actually install the T-Piece for my boost gauge....thems were some firm old hoses. Dropped off front axles to get CV boots replaced. Also yesterday, grabbed some ATF fluid and refilled the power steering system....no leaks so far which is exceedingly promising.

A few more links from this year. Please let me know if no one cares. July August Sept & Oct

Saturdays mission was replace rear wiper arm and blade assembly (came with bonus wiper) with new bits from Japan, and get out for a hoon. Sundays mission was pull out front axles and swap steering rack, partly due to one having a split cv boot (which had vomited grease all down my steering knuckle and downpipe), and partly to make it almost-not-impossible to swap out the new quick steer rack. On the plus side, good excuse to buy a decent set of crows foot/flare nut wrenches....went Kincrome set from Bunnings and they legitimately saved the day.....dont look like it in the picture but theyre chonky boys, and easily cracked the nuts of my 25 year old power steering lines https://www.bunnings.co.nz/kincrome-5-piece-metric-flare-nut-spanner-set_p0732053?srsltid=AfmBOoqODOwZb7kiNuaAb9kREZ2InQLTgDCvKWgfclxTd_uiA0QZxI7I

Finished a pcb design for the audio section and ordered yesterday. It should arrive in a week. No time to make a nice case etc but should have something usable in a day or so after it arrives. I spent a few days working on a spreadsheet to work out what the management/control over canbus looks like for these projects. eg any packet with the first byte as 0xFF will be a command, next byte is is which command eg test or reply with current status. Initial setup to give it a canbus address will be via the web page. But after that the ecu can send a canbus packet to change the ID, so if you are in the ecu software or want to change it you don’t have to go back to speed setup. PCBWay has 24 hour turnaround after they check the design. So far other than the first order it’s been under an hour to be checked and approved. I tried JLC PCB, which is part of LCSC which is a huge parts/components supplier. If they had a better way of combining shipping or parts and pcbs id likely use them more. Other than a few cheap bulk parts every chip and part has come from LCSC.

I would be the one forum member keen on this! That sounds like my WRX build that is probably on here but years out of date Now it's onto my N/A Impreza!

Replaced my front pads. Nothing fancy just the ones they have at BNT for the 316mm rotors. The car is starting to have some cosmetic issues sadly and the drivetrain is starting to show its age. Everything from 4k rpm up is all good its the transition onto boost that is a bit jerky. I might go along all the vacuum lines in the next month. It will be a while before I can sort the cosmetic issues but hopefully I can keep the car running good. Its a malaise that I hope goes away soon. On the other hand I see the Government are consulting to change the WoF frequency for pre-2000 vehicles. In that consultation document is the proposal to bring in driver aid technologies into the scope of the WoF system. I agreed with everything but that part because I see it as a slippery slope toward a California smog test OBD2 reading theocratic regime. Linky for WoF consultation document.

Could spin one up for everything I've done for posterity, its really just an OEM+ maintenance build with sourcing of delicious things she deserves but never had