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Subarus 2025 patent application japanese https://www.j-platpat.inpit.go.jp/c1801/DE/JP-2025-019542/30/ja English https://www.j-platpat.inpit.go.jp/d0200 is it possible the scoop is purely aero. As in the air goes in the scoop and exits across the whole windscreen? With a smaller slot to the engine bay so it create a vacuum. That would make it a front mount intercooler, low mount turbo and rotated intake manifold. Given the low mount front turbos seen on recent models it is possible.

Well shift lights just need assembling and will have 3 spare 40 led bars 20mm square by 22cm long I will make another few 16 bar smaller ones 12mm square by 15cm with a hide away box for the brains. I have 2 cases for the old school flashlight ones which I want to experiment with. There is also another dinosaur in bright lime green that could be used. I got 2 initially but they sent pale green knock off one instead of blue. The Bluetooth TPMS boards should arrive next week so I can make TPMS to can bus for logging. They should support most Bluetooth sensors so you can buy cheap ones and have multiple sets of wheels with sensors. It will log which ones it sees on startup. Since sensors sleep until moving it should only log the current wheels. The main audio project got a little larger than planned and now does a whole bunch of new things. Also adding language support so far English, but Spanish is a work in progress and Japanese should also be supported. Mostly that around how the say numbers. English has unique up to 20 eg we say eighteen not 10 and 8. Spanish is unique to 30, but has “y” between larger numbers which all needs to be coded. https://www.jaycar.co.nz/super-large-seven-segment-display/p/ZD1850 While waiting for parts YouTube recommended a few rally videos. One of which had a nice gear indicator mounted to the side of the dash cluster. So 40 hours later a 70mm tall (58mm for actual LEDs) 8 segment display for canbus is almost ready to order parts to see what actually fits. The controller with same wifi setup fits exactly behind the display and has M3 mounts inneach corner. Just thinking about adding a few solder points for a light sensor for night dimming incase the car doesn’t have canbus. You can make it show 1-10 by setting ecu to sending it a can message or a byte where each of the 8 bits turns on a single led segment. Will add option to read clutch over canbus to show C when it detects clutch rather than last gear position.

after looking at aerodynamics videos and Subaru related content the algorithm surfaced this. Its English overdubbed which can be a bit annoying when there are two people talk over each other. https://www.youtube.com/@stion-tube5753/videos

After a few days thinking about this it could be interesting for reading the tire model and setting the ecu map or mode. fit semi slicks and have ecu go into track mode with higher boost etc. combined with outside, tire temp or under car temp sensor you could know where I the tire compound is operating. or at the least log what tire was on the car when it was started. the tag is tiny so I suspect you’d need a coil in each wheel well to power them up. Still if you have those IR tire sensor fitted already it could be a simple add on. since this is close to ID badge cloning there are already a lot of projects and documentation around. Security conference already have a few people with long range badge closers. Car thieves also have a lot of tech for reading key fobs to start cars and that is all the same principles.

Thanks Bibendum

Definately worth doing, $1k for a healthier car is worth it. If youre game you can get a tactrix cable, romraider and DIY. You can get decent gains with a laptop, wideband and a bit of time (a lot of time) spent tweaking the fuelling, timing and boost maps.

GV WRX STI Spec R

Downloaded ROM, fitted tomei EL headers and invidia downpipe, ported tgvs and fitted sec air pump delete plates.

Seems since 2024 Michelin has bee sharing its RIFD tech with other vendors. links to FAQ: https://rfid.michelin.com/what-is-rfid/ https://www.continental-tires.com/continental-for-business/services-and-solutions/rfid/ The data is pretty limited, mostly around a few numbers the vendor can look up and get the size and specs of the tire along with their internal data like production date etc. manufacturer company assigned ID model is zero to 17 trillion serial is zero to 274 billion Looks like there maybe multiple tags for some companies as they had their own larger visible ones previously. The new ones are 38mm long and under 2mm in diameter and work from 1-5m from the tire. datasheet: https://rfid.michelin.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/dataSheet-TireTag-muRata.pdf Members of the RFID group other than Michelin Continental Bridgestone Goodyear Bridgestone JATMA which is most japanese brands: https://www.jatma.or.jp/english/about/member.html

Graphics can be small images or drawn from rectangles, circles, triangles or lines. Shapes can be filled or unfilled. I usually have an outlines version and then smaller filled version. That way when off you make the fill black or dull and its doesn't need to redraw the outline. Anyone could design a layout and any stock can bus data could be used to update the graphics. If you have aftermarket ecu then you can customise what can bus data they send or use a built in dash preset. links to some examples to show what data aftermarket ecus send out. Link ecu: https://www.akao.co.uk/manuals/Link G4+ Manual/device_specific_can_informatio.htm haltech: https://support.haltech.com/portal/en/kb/articles/haltech-can-ecu-broadcast-protocol emotion: https://help.emtronaustralia.com.au/emtune/PredefinedCANTransmitPacket2.html This is the case and screen except in black. Only a small 4mm hole gets drilled above the USB port for wiring There are a few version of this and you don't always know what you'll get. All have wifi with the same screen and case. The ultra is the basic single core 80MHz without bluetooth and without can bus controller builtin. cheapest USD$6. official price USD$25 The pro is dual core 240Mhz with bluetooth with builtin can bus controller. cheapest USD$12 Adding generic boards for power and can bus cost another USD$5-7. The pro has touch sensor built in but the ultra has 1 spare pin after can bus so can have a board added that enables touch. That way tapping on the top can cycle the display through different screens.

Hi all, I desperately need help to fix my 1999 JDM Legacy GT-B. I have a spark problem, I only have spark on cylinder 1 and 4. Here's what I did so far: -Tested all coils and spark plugs by swapping them around, they tested good -Checked for 12v in coil connector, all 4 connector have good 12v -Checked ground resistance in all coil connectors, all within spec. Even tested it under load with a small 12v dc motor -Checked continuity between trigger wire on coil and ECU connector, all good -Replaced ECU, no change -Replaced cam and crank sensor -Checked timing (all good on the cam sprocket, I would need to remove the crank pulley to confirm crank timing mark) -Inspected triggers tooth on camshaft sprocket, all good I have no clue what to look for now. If you have any idea let me know! Thanks !

Won’t it be the same as the heads, warped is warped so 0.002” or 0.05mm? What’s the removed material limit in the service manual old one was something like 0.012" or 0.30 mm. So. You need to check how much the heads have been cut. Shouldn’t you torque the case halves to spec before any measurement or machining work? A mirror or glass sheet is about the flattest thing I’ve found for flat polishing. Don’t forget to rotate the part often so any uneven force you apply isn’t the same angle the whole time. Just because it is flat doesn’t mean it’s square. Lol at AI summary, searched “skim subaru block flatness” and got a summary of your post as the answer.

Hey all, 2004 BP 3.0 Outback. I'm rebuilding this engine from the short block up, Had a teeny tiny external coolant drip from the head gasket above the oil cooler.....any sane person wouldn't worry about it but i saw it as an excuse to tear an EZ down and build my library of Subaru knowledge. I've had the heads hardness and crack tested and tidied up at the machine shop. I was wonder what the tolerances for flatness of the block are? obviously i'm limited to DIY methods for prepping the block. I've done the entire disassembly strictly to the FSM so far, however i can't seem to find the allowable tolerances for the block, it states the heads but not the block specs. Heads have been milled so they should be perfect, however the block.....i've used an old bathroom tile left over from a renovation with 600grit sandpaper and a lot of wd40 to clean up the block surfaces. With my feeler gauge I'm finding a gap about 0.003 or 0.004in across the block, light can also be seen from a torch. Just wondering if i should be worried about this? does anyone know what the specs should be? Will the "perfect head" surface clamp down and pull the block into a good seal? I'm using 100% OEM parts including the head gaskets. I'm also re using my head bolts but that might be a argument for another day. Any opinions appreciated. Cheers

A 1.44" screen is only 240x240 pixels . The text, arrows etc are photoshopped since they are generated in code. The mock up is an easy way to figure out the x,y placement for the code with lines and rectangles. The green fill would change based on DCCD state. Since its can bus connected it could read the X,Y from the yaw sensor and graph those on the left and bottom edges. individual wheel speed is also on the bus so could have tiny left to right balance for front and rear wheels.

I had this running a year ago on a small LCD test rig. Early 2026 have just found a cased 45mm cube with colour display that I can add canbus and 12v power converter inside. found parts on better than usual sale at aliexpress the parts total is $25+gst plus a few wires, heatshrink etc. Just have to drill hole in case for power and canbus wiring to get out but it’s very tidy. Could double side tape it to the top or the steering wheel column. Have the same 22B image from the TPMS display and some arrows to show diff level. Will upload a screenshot later.

If you're getting LIDAR from behind you are so entirely and absolutely toast. Basically a pointless scenario for trying to detect, as above laser alerts are usually just ticket notifications and if you get one from behind, quadruply so. I used to run a relatively high end hardwired detector (well it was high end once upon a time, now it's hopelessly outdated by things like the Unidens) and I didn't even bother installing the rear laser sensor.

Depends on the region but they can stand on the overpasses and tag the back of the car. Their car(sometimes multiple cars lined up) is parked on the side on-ramp so they can quickly get onto the expressway behind people. Some areas they just loop between say north and south bound on two closest exits. As for fast I’ve had one at 108kph.

I'd have liked to mirror mount mine but its just too much of a chonky boy and really fills a chunk of your vision mounted right there...something slimmer like a valentine might work, but I'll take any performance hit for having it up out of the way....I'm not living and dying by this thing and as everyone knows, any laser alerts are just speed ticket notifications unless you win the lottery and pick up some scatter, so high mount it is.

Yeah most cars patrolling the highways are running radar. From memory they're still on the super ancient Stalker Dual DSR. There has been a huge uptick in the use of stationary Laser though - maybe heaps of cars have radar detectors now, or the various cruise radars interfere with the Police ones? From following a patrol car for a while it's surprising how often the display goes to "RF" meaning it's got some sort of interference going on.

Do your cops still use radar a lot? Here in the states we rarely see police on the roads since covid. I still run an old Passport in all of the vehicles, but mostly the noise is makes is falseing.

Ok fill me in here but IMO rear is a complete waste of time? If you're getting pinged from behind with radar and you're still going too fast then you are a big stupidhead and should receive a ticket? If you get pinged from behind with laser and you're going too fast you're getting a ticket anyway. But I have literally never seen an enforcement situation where they were clocking cars from behind.

High up for front radar is definitely better, I just lost most of the rear laser detection on mine when above the rear mirror. I high mount in rural areas and just below mirror for expressways. The laser on overpasses are just too common. Still I have an old set of jammers in storage that i just realised I could convert to detect only and fit.

No metrics to go off, but general consensus from what I've been reading is the higher the better in general, anything to get them clear of internal obstructions ie seats/headrests etc as well as improving sightlines over other cars/hill crests as well🤷‍♂️ I've had plenty of rear alerts for what its worth, but still getting to grips with all the settings/understanding all the things that set them off/adjustments to reduce false alarms

How’s the rear detection with it mounted so high up?

Since I've been enjoying my car too much lately....radar detector install time! Its on one of those nice quick release powered mounts, NZ crowd I think? https://www.readysetradars.com/products/uniden-r7-8-mount It works well, nice and solid over bumps and corners even with coilovers, so can recommend. install was easy...was hoping to power from cabin lights but no switched 12v there...so ran cable down to stereo and tapped into switched power for ciggy lighter since it was easier than dealing with all the fleece taped stereo harness and the supplied cable with mount is the peeerfect length. The audio lead I added to wire into DSP since it can do auto source switching so I can get alerts through the stereo system ie interrupt audio from headunit, havent set that up yet though. They also do an angle correction kit for the stupid angled display which makes it face flat into the car with minimal effect on detection ability, out of stock at the moment but its just a couple of screws and replaces the metal tab the detector clips onto to, so I'll grab one when they show up next.