Colourfyre
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Posts posted by Colourfyre
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A bit more info:
The learned air fuel ratio has returned to 13.3- but ti took a while. The performance has deteriorated and so I pulled the ignition leads to test (I figured it was an easy test) and the one on the front passenger side cylinder was completely poked. Apart from obvious signs of corrosion and black powder falling out of the sockets (at both ends) the lead shows nothing in testing with a multimeter- no continuity at all (tested right up to the highest resistance range).
Does anyone have opinions on spark plug leads?
Options seem to be the NGK ones (SPO2461935) from super cheap for $157 or the Bosch ones (B4777i) from partzonline for $177
I figured spark plugs might as well be done at the same time (I don't know when they were done last, likely not recently, but i will pull one and see what its like) the supercheap website recommends an NGK one for $52 each- partzonline recommends the same but also the much cheaper Bosch double platinum for a much more reasonable $16.09 each. The workshop manual (as far as I can see) recommends Champion RC10Yc4 which are only $8.21- at this price though replacing them 4 times as often doesn't seem bad at all.
What's the go on this? I have read a lot of stuff that suggests staying away from the Bosch ones in Subarus... but at 52 each the NGK ones seem extremely pricey!
Thanks,
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Thanks for the offer Speedysub, I have FreeSSM and have just spent the last hour looking through data- no trouble codes or stored codes at all unfortunately.
Thanks JGM- I will have a look in the book and see if there is any diagnostic info for that sensor.
I did notice that the learned air fuel ratio was sitting at 13.3% on idle and wondered if maybe the old air cleaner was quite bad and so the car had learned to compensate for it- then on changing the air filter, it hasn't re-learned yet. I have no idea if this is even possible but- did notice an improvement in fuel economy on the air filter change. I cleared the cars memory and took it for a spin (with a couple of restarts(I think I have read something about it using three runs to learn fuel trims etc) and notice that the learned air fuel ratio is sitting close to 0 on idle.
I guess this is probably barking up the wrong tree but it will be interesting to see if it returns to anything like 13% again.
Cheers
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Hi SpeedySub,
Its an auto- the 4 speed tiptronic box. That was one of my first thoughts (the MAF)- but it doesn't seem to have one, from what I have read its got the manifold absolute pressure sensor instead, I had a look at this sensor and it looks fine, I am trying to find a diagnostic page for it in the manual now.
Thanks for the reply,
Cheers
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Hi,
I have a 2005 Legacy 2.5i- its got the 2.5l SOHC engine and has done about 240k. Recently I have found that if I am going down the road at 80-90kph then try and accelerate hard (pedal perhaps 90-100% down) (to pass a slow car for example) the car just stutters and gives no power. The rpm needle flutters somewhere in the 4000-5000 range and the only way to get power is to take my foot off the throttle and slowly accelerate (even like this there is sometimes a hint of roughness). This condition makes it sometimes difficult to pass slow cars- especially in places where passing lanes are uphill etc and all power is needed.
Other then this odd time the car is fine, acceleration from a standstill is fine (although I haven't tried hard down). Driving the car normally- its only sign of fault is hard acceleration from a decent speed. I have checked for codes and there is nothing, check engine light has never come on. Fuel consumption, according to the car is approx 7.4l/100km, this is what I normally get (before this problem started).
The air cleaner is a new and the front oxygen sensor is about 20k old. I have checked the air intake etc (when replacing the filter) but nothing.
I have been going through the manual with not much luck yet- I thought someone might have an idea.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
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The cord on the Grom unit wasn't too long, I installed the unit above the passenger footwell (sticky pad attached to electrical box on the side of the HVAC fan unit). I did this because I wanted to run the microphone up the passenger A pillar to avoid interference with electrical cords on the other side (the passenger A pillar only has what I think is the ariel wire). I don't think you would get enough wire to run it right into the centre console box, but I assume you could use a usb extension cord, even a flush mount usb socket installed in the centre box then wired back to the GROM box.
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Its a kenwood unit, and it sounds like it will work? See: http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21707
It might be worth contacting Grom though and checking, I can't see a CHR button to switch to an external cd changer (if connected, it might be a second press of the CD button though)
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Hi,
I have just installed the Grom unit (see link Andy_Mac pointed you to), it works well. What type of headunit have you got? When I was looking for a solution the thing seems to be the Grom units are for the Kenwood stereos (the normal one , and there are heaps of models) and then there are 'Anycar' units for the Macintosh stereos.
Cheers
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Thanks for the replies, yea its the fuel economy etc too. Almost seems to me like its just the backlight- an obvious dry solder joint would be too easy!
Can that- a bit more googling reveals this:
See post 15
http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.php/topic/121140-03-trip-computerclock-problem/
I will take mine apart in the next day or two and check resistor R4
Cheers
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Hi,
I have increasing problems with the clock/info unit in my BP9 legacy- Its the piece under the cubby between the centre vents. Sometimes it shows nothing at all (although the button for turning the dash lights to bright still works)- a bit of hard tapping and it will come back to life. Its happening more and more often so I took the unit apart just to check for a dry solder joint or dodgy capacitor etc- I couldn't see anything.
Is this a common problem/is there a good fix or is it just a case of a replacement unit?
Cheers
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Hi,
I have just installed a Grom BT-3 unit on my 2005 Legacy (BP9). This is a CD changer emulator that gives an aux input to the legacy's which didn't get one from the factory. I have a NZ new legacy with the Kenwood GX-201KH headunit- when I was looking around at the Grom units no one could confirm it would work with this HU, so I am here saying that it does! I can finally stop persisting with FM transmitter (My ali-express one was always a bit shaky in quality) and CDs.
A nice feature that I didn't really realise I would get is that I can get Siri by pressing the RDM button twice- good for asking for a specific song/changing playlists/making a phone call. Siri seems to be much more useful than I have ever found it- perhaps the external mic makes voice more clear.
Cheers,
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Thanks guys, I think I will pull the console apart and get power from either the accessory socket circuit or if there is a dedicated spot for the factory Nav system in the fuse box I might try and find the wires for that. The reverse camera itself is powered from the reverse light circuit, the screen changes to reverse camera (and turns on) when there is video input. I also have a front camera that I plan to mount up in the grill or something but I will see how that goes! I thought it would be handy for tight parking etc
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That's quite a nice tidy soloution! I will have a look into it :-) cheers
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Hi guys,
I am fitting a reverse camera system to my BP9, Just planning the best place to get power for the screen from- I was looking at trying to work into the existing fuse box but from the looks of it its going to be way to hard. Has anyone got any better suggestions than simply taking power from the cigar lighter circuit?
Cheers
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Legal is legal just deal with it
Factory privacy glass on most models is darker than nz legal limit for aftermarket tint
There are literally dozens of factory tint codes in varying colours and shades, (green / gre / blue / bronze) , all let different amounts of light through. Unless you own a light meter good luck working out exactly what you I have, sometimes you'll get half a dozen options in the same model vehicle depending on interior trim, options ticked etc.
Plan A guesstimate what you have, DIY the tints and hope it's still legal, plan B go to a tinting place, get some which are guaranteed and if it does fail, they replace with legal. You take your risks either way
Or get what you have (no matter how 'clear' it is) checked by someone with a VLT meter.
The other thing I have learnt is the American standard number- all the glass on my legacy is AS2 which means its all at least 70% VLT (it could be higher and still fit into that standard), Jap import cars I have looked at today with the dark back use AS3 Glass on the back which can be anything below 70% VLT. This website has lots of info: http://www.carwindshields.info/windshieldmarkings'
I guess that unless you test it you might as well assume that the car is already 70% VLT on the sides (The same as the windscreen apparently)
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Ive been down at the station and seen the tester used etc, The NZ new legacy I have which doesn't look like its tinted at all is essentially VLT 70-75% and research on the internet supports that. Its honestly like a fish bowl- I was really surprised that the tint in the "clear" looking glass is so much. I am sure there meter is all good, in reality when you do the maths the results from the meter aren't surprising at all. So the minimum VLT film I could use (or rather the darkest tint I could use) is 50% (.35(Legal level)/.70 = .50)
Does anyone have any experience with such a light tint? I am not sure I would want it any lighter than it was. (From the point of view of people not being able to see whats in the back etc as easily)
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Hi joker,
Your right on the 5/90 percent thing- 5 percent VLT would only be allowing 5% of the light through.
The maths of the equation is because if you imagine you had two pieces of 50 percent tint one on top of the other and they added together to make 100 percent then you would expect the combination to be completely clear. The thing is though that the top layer allows half the light to pass through it and then the next layer also allows half of that light through (which is half of half and so a quarter)
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According to the calculations the glass that looks totally not tinted (nz new so it doesn't have the dark back) is actually about 68% VLT. So tint film that would result in it being legal would be more like 52% VLT or higher...
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No, I exchanged lots of emails with the people I got the tints off and they were sure that their 35 percent tint would actually be higher and so that when put on fourth gen legacy glass it would be fine. So on their assurance I just went with the 35%
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Well my diy tint job went well but, I went in for my first wof since the tints went on (brought online with the assurance that I was wrong about the maths and that it would all work out to be legal) and they measure at 24%! It failed of course and now I guess I have to rip the damn things off!
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Lock your car with a key (from outside obviously)
Lift and release driver's door handle
You'll hear a very noticeable beep if your car has a programmable door handle. If not - it does not have one.
Thanks sonanoodle, It doesn't beep, I was just wondering about the white connectors relevance to the thing.
Cheers
C
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Found this on page 2
its almost same as bp and forester models. remove drivers kick penal and connect white connectors, close drivers doors and double press remote key. remove white connector, and check.
in case of bp legacys the lock switch on drivers master switch has to be held, but bh legacys dont have this.
before you do reprogramming check the remote battery.
Thanks for the reply, I am confused though, after doing that what am I supposed to check? would I expect a beep at that point?
Cheers
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And fixed, $140 out of pocket but a nice new Oxygen sensor and I've got no more codes and confirmation that the engine computer has recognised the Oxygen sensor heater has been working!
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All sorted and ordered, turned out to be a 22641-AA230.
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Even before I red this I thought I best specify these instruction's might only apply to Gen's I to III
yea you answered your own question I beleive
Sorry, I thought people had talked in the thread about it applying to the Gen 4 models too.
I can't get it to beep or anything even close to actually putting a pin in
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BP5 Oxygen Sensor Replacement
in Legacy & Outback
Posted · Edited by Colourfyre
I replaced the front oxygen sensor in my bp9 (22641-aa230) with a new part I got from Ali-express, it ended up costing 95usd. It appeared genuine and has done a good 20ks so far.