dilly
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Posts posted by dilly
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Alignment causing vibration? hahaha :
yeah nah.Id be getting your wheels/tyres checked by a tyre shop and if its not that its something mechanical as mentioned above.
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Looks like a combination of under inflation, shit alignment (as said above)and shit quality tyres. I run 40psi minimum in my shitty sagitars to stop that from happening (215/40-17) they looove collapsing right where the steel belt ends.
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na black it. Looks whory as all cracked lol
Agreed. It does look a little rough. If you do want something a little different have a look at this;
http://www.autobody101.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=18325&start=0
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/19023-marble-wrinkle-effect-pics-inside.html
my 2c
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My 96 250T front sunroof if fixed
rear ones goes back and forth + up and down -
you can do what we did( pretty rangi but it worked)
On the side of the Auto box where the wiring loom plugs in is a quarter round looking device, this is the unit which tells the ecu which gear it is in, this is easily removed from the box, then all you need to do is plug the loom back into it move the centre portion until the correct gear in indicated on the dash display. cable tie the unit under the bonnet some where, job done
this was on a 93 GT but it should work for you as well
Ended up doing exactly this after a bit of troubleshooting cause it still wouldn't start
I did notice the dash lights dimmed when I did try crank it which obviously ment the battery was under load. Ended up having a shot starter solinoid aswell!
I will try (once again) to start it tonight.. it should go tho
;DThanks for the help guys
Ill let you know how it goes. -
Oh i see... Just wire out the park switch. No need to go poking around in the ecu wiring
Dont make it harder than it needs to be dude.
So just cut wires and join them to 'delete/bypass' the park switch?
Have I really over thought it this much :-[
I will try tonight. Thanks heaps in advance.
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If you rev the engine from the throttle body does it get louder as you release the throttle? power drill sound is normally a turbo saying goodbye.
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The nuetral switch is located at the back of the transmission (inside). I have already grounded the steering lock switch(by the lever). The biggest problem is beacause the transmission is obviously not pluged in the tcu isnt getting power so the lights on the dash (PNRD123) dont light up as theres no power/signal. If I can find the correct wire at the ecu I can ground it so it gets 5v and it will then think its in nuetral.
Is the 250t automatic trans loom wiring the same as the turbo model legacy? or even n/a 2.0l + 2.2l
Im pretty sure i can splice the neutral switch wire together there to permanantly complete the circut.
To be fair, I have no idea what im doing really haha :-[ It took a night to do the full mechanical conversion and its gonna take a week to start the car HAHA! ;D
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I did the EXACT same thing doing a manual conversion on the weekend :
EXCEPT my mate saw it in there (before we tried starting it I might add) luckily after some fishing with wire/screwdriver and blu-tac we got it out. It should come right once you pull the gearbox off. Good luck
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Hey guys, I have recently put a manual box etc into my auto 250t, all went well untill I tried finding an ECU pinout (U9 ECU) so I could ground the nuetral switch so It thinks its in nuetral so it will start. After extensive searching I have found out pinouts for this ecu almost dont exist.
I have found 4-5 pinouts with same plug BUT they are for different engines and the pinouts all vary alot. And ones in japanese
Im at the point where im gonna need to trace wires back from A/T harness the only problem, I dont know how to use a volt meter.
Anyone have any Ideas or suggestions to help?
Also, If you do know how to fix the issue im happy to pay.
Im based on the North shore, auckland.
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Vf13 and Vf 14 come on the 93-95 tt leggys. Vf18 and vf19 on the 'B' spec 96 - 98 and Vf 26 - 27 (i think)on the be/bh. Something seems odd ???
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Any signwriting shop will do it in any font/colour/size. They normally dont charge to much either. Just google signwriters and get some prices?
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As above need evo short block bored, planed head/block for mls gasket, size up bearings/crank, balance, and possibly assemble depending on price. I have all new parts. Want a 300kwish engine so want a good job.
Hoping someone can help either for cash or deals on new parts or tools. Based in northland but can travel to auckland if cheap.
Ive allways used Engine Specialties on Hillside road in Glenfield on the shore. I normally deal with David. They use a diamond tip for machining. All there work is absolutely top notch and they know there stuff! I assembled my own block but they did EVERYTHING else. As allways, you pay for what you get. and if you want 300kw you want it done right.. the first time
My 2c anyway..
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You might want to specify what size
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fully agree.
What i think you will find is that it might allow you a peak in the 260-270 range (at best) but it will heat soak under normal driving conditions so a sheed load of timing and boost will need to be pulled for your normal driving conditions, I'd realistically estimate you'll see it tuned for 250ish max, which imo is still deceptively quick and will be very drivable.
What engine capacity and turbo combination have you got there out of interest?
just by the by, what ive found even on a FMIC set up, that from about 25pi onwards your charge intake temps seem to increase very rapidly, which shows that both turbo and or IC set up are nearing their respective limits. To offset that a larger blower would be required (more efficient) but you'd lose boost threshold and driveability.
I have a new garrett (like t3/t4 sort of) and just a rebuilt forged 2l :-\
i enjoyed my car with this engine and link g4 on 12 psi with a vf28 and grey 330cc injectors. (174kwatw)
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ballsrburning']
[quote name='funkytown said:
Looks like a very tidy build
but 300kw supported via a TMIC? sure its larger but i doubt it will cope, GL and let us know how you get on.
/quote]
Yes i know.. :-\ I just refuse to have a front mount. Ive seen 250ish kw from other top mounts. ill be happy with anything between 240 and 280 tbh. Im not really looking for max hp. just good all round driveability (and tidyness)
hey what injectors are you using, top feed or side feed as i am looking for fuel rails (aftermarket) for top feeds?
Aftermarket top feed rails with 1000cc injector dynamic injectors. The brackets for the rails and the seat for the injectors in the manifold were custom made for the v4 sti intake.
Cool sounds good, who made all that for you?
as I am thinking of going bigger injectors as i have v8 pink ones but not sure if they will support the power i want in the future above 250kwatw.
You should defanatly change them if your wanting over 250kw.
I just had a guy who does all my alloy repairs to do it. anyone who can weld or machine could do it.
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ballsrburning']
[quote name='funkytown said:
Looks like a very tidy build
but 300kw supported via a TMIC? sure its larger but i doubt it will cope, GL and let us know how you get on.
/quote]
Yes i know.. :-\ I just refuse to have a front mount. Ive seen 250ish kw from other top mounts. ill be happy with anything between 240 and 280 tbh. Im not really looking for max hp. just good all round driveability (and tidyness)
hey what injectors are you using, top feed or side feed as i am looking for fuel rails (aftermarket) for top feeds?
Aftermarket top feed rails with 1000cc injector dynamic injectors. The brackets for the rails and the seat for the injectors in the manifold were custom made for the v4 sti intake.
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Looks like a very tidy build
but 300kw supported via a TMIC? sure its larger but i doubt it will cope, GL and let us know how you get on.
Yes i know.. :-\ I just refuse to have a front mount. Ive seen 250ish kw from other top mounts. ill be happy with anything between 240 and 280 tbh. Im not really looking for max hp. just good all round driveability (and tidyness)
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Got my engine in.. just need $$$$ for fabrication :
Should be good for up to 300kw atw. Yes it has brembos, 6 speed, link g4 and all suporting mods.
*edit* and air con + leather ;D
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I have a genuine V5 STI shifter thats near new (still have the box) which shortens the throw between gears (as it has higher pivot point) $100 And it will bolt strait in and solve your problems. Its far nicer, firmer and direct than even a good factory shifter.
Your 'cut' gear stick is not a short shifter... its broken.
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With your foot down, you will get 14psi
From memory, mine goes to 7psi primary, drops to 0 (Valley of Death - when it swaps them over) then up to 14psi for secondary/both (dunno how it works)
Ouch... vod of 0 psi? mine droped to 5psi and i hated it!!! (from 10psi) and it was standard apart from exhaust.
yeah nah.
rear ones goes back and forth + up and down
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STI vibrate at 100km and over
in Impreza, Crosstrek and XV
Posted
Aftermarket wheels that arent hub centric or diff/axle as previously said. When did this begin? swapping front to rear will eliminate tyres/wheels if it continues.