fbssub1
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SP00N']
[quote name='SP00N said:
nice writeup
so u basically take off the stock headers and it bolts straight onto the bottom of the stock up pipe?
/quote]
Correct I just torqued the exhaust bolts up slightly tighter so they didnt leak.
awsum stuff bro!
didnt know it wud fit the stock sump (u know how the TS ones dont lol)
could always get Kingpin to make some aftermarket one\'s there spoon, but some how I don\'t think they would ever show up after being finished, A
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I just put on a catch can now I think Im getting blowby . I had the rocker breathers plumbed together with a filter on them (no can) and the crank breather just open. The pipes never got oil in them or anything but now Ive got them both plumbed to the catch can which vents at the moment not plumbed to intake, it seems to be catching oil? Cars at tuners so havent got it to play with but seems odd? Or do the two lines work against each other but it still vents? confusing.
You would be better joining the 3 into 1 taking that 1 to the catch can and then venting positive air back into the intake, Catch can to have no breather, I have done similar to you but I put a breather/ filter on a raised stem on cam covers and crank to large catch can with large breather/filter and had no Issues, size of the breather my be the Issue, motor not breathing and creating back pressure maybe
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have a mate just put a new motor into his v2, skimmed the flywheel retired the old 225 clutch and brought a 230mm clutch and pressure plate, now he has a slipping clutch.
Now I thought 230mm clutch needed a different flywheel to the 225 clutch???? the only other thing I could think of is oil on the plate itself,
any ideas would be great
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everyone saying the vf22 is very laggy, yeah it is compare to the vf28. in my case they are very both good turbo... in the end i would prefer the vf22 for the better top end as i dont race around cones on a parking lot events but then i would prefer a TD04 for that, which re pretty good. i got rid of my vf22 for a VF37 then got a IHI RX6 which is kinda off topic now?
over all like other people are asking what your intention with your car?
i had my vf22 dyno with possum link years ago and got 220kw@18psi the injectors was maxing out
what injectors where you running, looking to do a rebuild on a v8 sti motor, strip it down to case and crank, add some I rods and some 92.5 forges, ported and polished v5 sti heads and go from there, got 565 side feed for it atm but may look at 800cc injectors
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pros and cons here guys, have a vf 22 for sale been offered a vf28 as a swap, I was thinking step backwards to the vf 28, but your guys thoughts
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yep thats the 1 i have, so i leave factory un hosed?
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want to wire 1 in, do I bypass the subaru unit all together or can you run both?? if I bypass factory unit do I on the factory unit plum turbo to wastegate port or leave venting to atmosphere and I take it map sensor hose still needs to connect to to intake manifold. So if bypassing oem unit the arrow on the T goes toward the wastegate? also no wiring diagram came with it, but basics is brown= earth, blue to 1 side of switch and power via inline fuse to other side of switch.
any help
Cheers Brian
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no need to push a 2.5 hard, my track car has a 2.5cdb with deshrouded heads so thats the 1 I want to push reasonably hard, would like to have both at track day but dont think track car be finished by then but Im trying too have it finished.lol
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sorry couple of deg towards tdc, using a link
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so 2deg after tdc
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low timing???
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With standard 2.0 heads the ports are the wrong shape which causes higher compression and higher combustion temps. If you've used anything other than ej257 block the bores are hardly the strongest. I wouldn't push it too hard. Any of your turbos sound good to me for a nice driving daily with reliability
was told the pistons that I brought would lower compression, and the engine builder wasnt worried about items supplied for build, bugged him for ages and others for information
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fully depends if it's a built motor or a stocker though. as well as other aspects of the car
2.5 block new bearings forged rods and pistons 1.6mm mls gaskets V3 sti heads standard, In my BC5 to be my daily, dont want a lot of boost 12-16lb its not my track car, so going with those specs above would you still say TD06, running a electronic boost controller just to keep from creeping up, currently have a td05 and a vf30 so whoild like to use 1 of those to save money and so that car is up and running for track day in September
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sort of feel sorry for this guy Nick at APET, sends out out a replacement part without a confirming address or taking down track n trace it never shows and the latest is refund even though I had sent 4 emails with account details he didnt confirm my account and now funds have disappeared too god knows where, and this guy runs a business sounds more like he needs to be sedated in a ward with a bunch of fucking retards
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can anyone tell me the size of the Blue topfeed injectors on my ej254 na motor
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got 1 of a car that ran possum link, do I get rid of the other stuff or does the link use the boost controler
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right I have a possum link with a good tune on it can I save that tune some how? Reason being engine is now a 2.5t so need to re tune, do I need a total retune or are there certain fields that I can change the numbers in to relate back to fuel and boost etc, now with the subaru map sensor turbo boost controler does the link use these or can they be removed and a aftermarket MAP run in there place. Im no sparky or wise kid so a little help please people.
Cheers Brian
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help my mate/I is stumpped
in Impreza, Crosstrek and XV
Posted
Im thinking limp home mode activeated due to either boost spike or over rev any other help be great, V5
emailed to me
i think i need some insight. sorry.i did one donout and then it cut out and since then its just been weird
.lol, i dont think ive broken it but - erm, its runs normal, cept it wont boost. it cuts out at 4000, runs normal apart from that the revs are dropping and it cuts out it not given gas, the check engine light is on.