Munkvy
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Posts posted by Munkvy
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I have an old BH5 Legacy that I use for towing the rally car and once I used it as the zero car on Targa for a day. I have 4 pots with EBC Blue pads (which are nothing like yellows), and on good tyres it was quite good to use on Targa. Bearing in mind as the safety car and with no notes I couldn't go as quickly as the competitors, but we also have to stay in front of them, so plenty of hitting speed limiter and carrying as much corner speed as a 20 year old car with stock suspension will let you. Even found a pic of it:
http://www.proshotz.com/p170609214/e235944cbAnyway, I found 4 pots with good pads sufficient. Track maybe a little different depending on how tight it is for getting sufficient cooling on the straights, but brake ducting makes a massive difference with that and is cheaper to do than upgrading pads.
Only thing I found is the race pads aren't much use on public roads, noisy and dirty and a bit lazy on the first couple of applications. So best to only use them when racing.
SP500 pads I have only used once, years ago in a friends STI at Manfield and they were fine on road tyres. I think you would cook them if you push them on semis.
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Be very careful with antilag, if you get it wrong you may well hurt your motor and/or turbo (ask me how I know!).
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Given V2 is 20+ years old and it was a terrible design when new, I doubt you will be able to I am afraid... Better off going FMIC, cheap and easy to do as well as reducing the chance of detonation.
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Unleashed Lower Hutt or Partsouq.
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On 10/25/2017 at 7:52 PM, mitch8198 said:
had a little stalk of your youtube channel, you've got some skills man!
do i need a cage/logbook to give the local hillclimbs a crack? looks like lots of fun
Thanks, practice in a slow car has made me a lot faster, but always room to improve still!
Hillclimbs, autocrosses and track days all just generally need a fire extinguisher, overalls and a helmet. Ohh and you need to be a member of a motorsport NZ affiliated club and then a motorsport license, both these things are easy to sort out though. Very few hillclimbs/sprints require a cage, it's generally only when the road is quite dangerous (ie like Shelly Bay in Wellington which is cliffs on one side and ocean on the other).
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On 10/19/2017 at 4:38 PM, McMatty said:
Is this opportunity only available to Conducks or can i come too?
Happy to take people for a drive
Although I probably should put the passenger seat back in the car first!
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15 hours ago, Conducks said:
Video off of my YouTube channelDidn't have time to watch it all. But wheres the drifting at? Given your age and the fact you seem to know the answers to everything, I would have expected you to be chucking it in backwards at least at the hairpin and driving somewhere approaching the limit of adhesion.
Good to see you have tried out the track. But if you ever want to drive properly fast, come to Wellington to one of our hillclimb *actual motorsport* events. Happy to take you out as a passenger and help encourage you to do this stuff legally more often, as once you realise that you can race fast round corners legally, that's much more fun than this straight line sh*t!
Ohh and if you ever go back to the track, please make sure to get a driving instructor, you might learn some stuff. Turns out those guys that have been racing for a long time do actually know more than the average driver
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1 hour ago, evowrx said:
Tony had an awesome twin can setup that I largely copied and it worked really well, never had any issues with filling catch cans or anything. You will have to search around to find the photos of the setup in a post by Tony.
If you are tracking the car, make sure you put a decent baffled sump in and the less modified the engine the better, less chance it's going to blow up straight away. Large power is definitely a bad thing at the track unless you have all the supporting modifications to keep it cool and reliable.
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Do the front arm rear bushes, that helps add caster so the car turns in better and then if you get the anti squat stuff in theory it helps with exit grip, although I have never been able to tell. Rear diff bushes if they are flogged you can normally feel the rear diff clunking around under aggressive changes. Subframes bolts I couldn't really feel a major difference when I installed them. Swaybar was the biggest for me. I put the biggest rear bar on possible and on the stiffest setting it makes quite a difference to the responsiveness of the car. Then winding the bar down to a softer setting and doing the same course I could feel the handling was lazier and you had to be more patient to let the car settle when changing direction etc.
Other than that, just replace your engine and box mounts if they are poked. But replacing bushes is an expensive way to improve handling, I would suggest coilovers is better value for money. Although it depends on the goals of the car too.
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I ran one of these on my WRX rally car. They are laggy compared to stock turbos. So really wasn't well suited to my car.
With a very conservative road tune 180wkw roughly from memory, might have been slightly more (ie car was road tuned, then a quick check later on the dyno). I did Taranaki Tarmac rally 2016 on it as the 0 car, and I also ran antilag through it briefly and it is still running, so I was surprised that the turbo lasted. But definitely too laggy compared to stock for my liking. Although my engine did end up down on compression, so that didn't help things.
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1 minute ago, evowrx said:
Buuuttt S*** drivers can have powerful cars that give S*** times...
The latter is bang on the money.
Yeah its fun beating on powerful cars!
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What does any of it matter? It's all just numbers. Times at a track or drag strip are a better reference.
But what makes you smile is the most important given how much cars cost to modify!
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I co-drive last month in an Legacy with 210wkw using a DCCD 5 speed. Using the excellent MapDCCD controller. And it was good. So certainly upto the job, how long they last I couldn't say, from memory he had done a season of sprints on it and one rally and it was still holding together fine.
6 speed is still pretty good value for money given you don't need to rebuild them to make them reliable like you do with a lot 5 speeds. However they still have a lifespan that's going to be shorter than a dogbox if you really thrash them. I have done 5-6 rallies over the last couple of years (including a 5 day Targa) on 2 6 speed boxes. Both of them have started to have issues with selectors over time due to me being not particularly kind on gear change. But no mechanical failure so far.
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They are very well priced, there is a guy on SAU who swears by them. So a couple of good reviews around. They are a little cheaper than Dunlops, which are a known good tyre, curious to compare grip levels. Whatever you do, wouldn't run them on the road, cops probably won't like that pattern, especially once they wear! And of course they aren't great in the wet.
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Hmm, thats a hard one then, hard to know if you got unlucky with a sh*t box or just you are being rough on it? You can always look on passenger side of the box to see what the code is by the way. To make sure it's actually a box from a modern car. You could try a later model (ie 2000+) 5 speed, they are supposed to be better. I spent a couple of years doing sprints on 5 speeds and only ever broke one. Mind you I have broken 2 6 speeds, but that's mostly shifter issues I think.
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14 hours ago, Kiwiflyboy said:
Ruapuna set my fastest lap time of 1.44. It’s a 98 forester with 193kw at the wheels. The original gear box did 186000km and was mint till friend blew second gear with a dumb down shift.
Then went into a shop to get a second hand box put in with matching gear box codes. The first one started to die after 120km with the front bearings in diff failing and this one sounds like the same noise only just started to make it in 3rd and 4th and only when throttle applied.
Clutch is just a standard replacement so that would go before gears hopefully. Both gear boxes have come second had unknown kms from their place they get them from.
Sent from my iPad using TapatalkDo you know the code of the box you replaced it with and what fluid went into it?
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On 2/09/2017 at 7:32 PM, Kiwiflyboy said:
It is on a track and today I took more care than I normally do when changing to make sure I was careful(not engine braking like I used to and just using the brakes). when the first gear box got put in I got them to check mounts and bushes and replace as required. The original gear box never had this issue, was all good till mate smashed second gear into pieces. This is now becoming a pain in the Ass
What track and lap times? And what is the car? And power levels?
As for the box, what is the code on the box and how flogged was it before you got it? If it's something out of say an 89 RS, it probably won't last very long as they are very old and abused by now. What fluid are you running in it? And what clutch? And aggressive clutch will quite easily do bad things to a gearbox if you are racing.
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Buy the setup Tony has for sale. That will work for serious track work on slicks.
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On 15/07/2017 at 10:33 AM, joker97 said:
Do people buy aftermarket brake pads that has better stopping ability and also work when it's cold? (ie not racing pads)
If yes where do you buy them from/what brand?
If no why not?
THanks
Better stopping ability and work from cold isn't impossible with race pads, just buy moderate race pads. Not serious ones. However even most serious pads only require a couple of stabs before they start to work. However that isn't much use in a panic stop situation!
If you want your car to stop better every time, buy better tyres. That is what generates the grip that allows you to stop better. Not fancy pads.
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Factory or aftermarket? Assuming you mean aftermarket, Whiteline have a good reputation and you can get them in different sizes or as an adjustable unit, but aren't cheap. Ultra Racing are a bit cheaper but still work.
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1 minute ago, 94 Leone said:
driven to the limits of re003's on the track.
Sent from my Baked potato using Telekinesis
Totally off topic question... Have you ironed your J Hat, or are you American?
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On 26/06/2017 at 2:48 PM, pedro said:
Honda go...Honda blow..
Soulless cars in my opinion..
make good entry level track cars or daily as Inked says..
You should go race some (as in drive them, not race at traffic lights), they aren't as bad as the exhaust note implies. And very rewarding when you beat people in much more powerful cars! Some of my favourite racing memories are of my old EF CRX, revvy and nimble in a way that the WRX just never can do.
And there is something about being so close to instant death if you hit something in it!!!
On 26/06/2017 at 2:21 PM, newsuba said:not hyperbole.
for best handling, two wheel drive beats awd.
in an evo magazine test the old fk2 civic type r was just as fast as a focus rs awd around the track.
and the discontinued renault megane rs275 trophy r is still the best handling hot hatch.
seen a few focus rs on the road but they are easily out-numbered by the new mustang - every man and his dog seems to have one.
the new civic type r is pretty fugly but you don't notice from the inside.
it will have strong competition from the new seat leon cupra to be launched in nz later this year - same 221kw motor as a golf r, fwd, lsd, only $57k !
I can't think of many things worse than 221kw in a FWD. LSD is just going to help you spontaneously change lanes more consistently... Having been in Golf GTI's and Mazda 3 MPS's that are mostly stock and yet wheelspin like a demon and aggressively torque steer I can't say I am a fan. However as a race car I do see the value to a turbo FWD as at least you then have the grip to control it.
Ohh and as for 2WD vs 4WD, I think it's a matter of environment. I beat a Focus RS at a hillclimb not that long ago in my E30. That wasn't due to car though, it was entirely the driver being a bit slow. I love the turn-in ability of a RWD (the best feature of my E30), but I also love the revvy nature of an old N/A FWD Honda too. And then 4WD is simply the funnest way to launch, so it's all matter of what you want from a car.
And lets face it, almost no one on this forum is going to drive their car to the actual limit of the cars ability at any time, so ultimate handling is irrelevant, it's more what handling makes you happy...
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On 25/06/2017 at 7:23 PM, evowrx said:
If you have a mate or are capable of doing the fab yourself itll save you a shitload. Also if you reflash stock ecu it will save another 3k.
I reckon 10k would do it.
2000 Holset and associated bits
500 wastegate
250 fuel pump
200 pink injectors or decap what you have
400 fmic and piping
400 exhaust
80 mac valve
1400 tune
3000 rebuild new gaskets, valve springs, pistons and rods
Then whatever fab and rebuild costs you. If you can do it yourself then its a fair saving. Not sure how far you could push the stock block as far as requiring a rebuild goes. Id go for 300wkw and see what happens. Would be F***ing torquey with decent turbo selection.
When talking to DTech about doing a forged build on an EZ30 Tony said it was a very expensive engine to strip and assemble, as well as the obvious extra need for more parts due to more pistons. So I would suggest it won't be quite that cheap to build a strong motor?
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So it was a bit of fun. But there was only 2 Subarus there, Al and Mark... There was also no need for the handbrake as it was way too fast and flowing for handbrake use. But whoever the guy is doing helis further up the page, if you want to do that legitimately, and are in Wellington there is an autocross on Sunday in Upper Hutt, $40 and you basically can race anything that is upto WOF standard and you have a helmet/overalls. Better than doing heli's and wearing out tyres for no purpose.
Plus then people know how fast you are.. (or aren't as often is the case at autocrosses).
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How to keep engine temps down on track day
in Engine Related
Posted
That IAT is a bit high regardless, I used to have the same issue. Putting in a smaller intercooler that doesn't block the radiator, shielding the intercooler piping from heat soak, putting inlet manifold spacers and and putting in ducting round the edges of the radiator - to force air to go through it, not round it. That combined brought everything back to sensible temps for me and no further issues. That's on a pretty stock rally car running a TD05 and restrictor and doing stages that go for upto 30mins at a time. However no antilag.