Munkvy
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Posts posted by Munkvy
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On the plus side, your car sure isn't slow:
Looked like a handful to keep in a straight line!
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I have a STI Group N plate R180 in mine and it is absolutely wonderful on a windy road with a less than perfect surface... combined with a hefty rear swaybar it makes the car very nicely balanced when you give it a bit of jandle out of the corner.
A word of warning though about grunty plate diffs, they need servicing regularly, mine is probably less than 20000km old and it needs attention.
How did you find that compared to a viscous though or the non-Group N R180? That is often the issue, you can't tell a huge difference on the road compared to factory parts.
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Are you breaking axles currently? At what sort of power level and how aggressive a clutch do you have and how are you breaking them?
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What do you want to use the diff for though? As it is only really of benefit if you are going racing.. On a street car I believe you wouldn't get value for money.
If you don't want to buy new, you can get the factory R160 plate one from an RA, although I think they are pretty rare and if memory serves me right, only come in 3.9 ratio. As Loren has mentioned for the R180 factory plate LSD, isn't as aggressive as aftermarket, but still better than sh*tty viscous and I would expect the R160 one would be the same.
Otherwise, try calling workshops that work on rally/race cars and see if you can find someone with one they are willing to sell.
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Yes. What application and what do you want to know (I am no expert, but can provide some real world experience).
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It's going to be interesting alright. It's got quite a kick and I haven't even dared to boost it first or second yet.
I'm going to try my best to have it ready for the first HVMC autox on the 29th of this month... probably the worst
possible event to start off at
I was planning on being there too, although with my diff playing up I might use the BMW instead. Need a hand with the car at all?
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Been for a bit of a test drive, the car is going much better since tuning. The Butt-O-Meter was very convinced that there is an improvement.
koom: BP98.
evowrx: don't know about cams unfortunately. Headers are stainless UL 4:1... no branding that I have seen.
Just seen the dyno plot, you are gonna have fun keeping that on the power curve on slow events, or it will be lag... boost... sideways out of slow corners! Should be spectacular to watch you tame it!
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Try asking Dan, he tuned it at Geoffs to that amount... And yeah, could always do with more power!!!
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Try 2 months... I haven't ever had a motor last 5 years!!!
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Think I am gonna have to come for a drive sometime and see this weapon! You literally have 100kw more than me!
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ok, so wastegate sorted... It wasn't plumbed in right. doh. It only has a 14 psi spring though and the motec boost control isn't working well. motec say a firmware update is required, but I don't have the
password to update it and they won't provide one
So, STM have just chucked a boost tap on for now, and have it running at 22 psi and it's making 286 kw. It's a pretty conservative boost level and tune just in case there is an oil problem. But that's heaps of power for me, and I can always go back and get the boost cranked up when the motec is sorted out.
Sounds good, I hope you don't still have a 5 speed as that won't last long doing motorsport I suspect!
But with that sort of power you should certainly be knocking on the top 5 minimum at all of our local events...!
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It's an inherent design flaw called the EJ20, if you push it with a stock sump they will all run a bearing with enough encouragement, especially if you don't check the oil after every run and make sure it's full.
Which engines do it before others varies, and as has been mentioned maintenance will have an impact. But you have to realise you are trying to drive a car around corners with an engine design that means they are very likely to try and spit the oil out of it. So if you don't do something about that before tracking the car, you are asking for trouble.
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Went for a drive in Taranaki:
Get to do it again tomorrow on a different road too. Life could be worse!
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About the oil starvation.... why not install a accusump? + PBMS baffled sump... problem eliminated right...?
For the price of an accusump and a PBMS sump you could buy a much more serious sump and fabricate a decent catch can setup that returns to the engine, so you largely reduce the issue.
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I am running a Silverdale alloy radiator. Used on one Targa and 10 or so sprint type events. Never had an issue with it. A little bigger than factory, but nothing too flash. Does the job well and really well priced compared to flash Japanese stuff.
Thats an Evo one from them to give you an idea:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/mitsubishi/radiators/auction-1078601151.htm
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no logging... got to pay to unlock it. not noticed anything wonky with voltages though. will get injectors checked tomorrow.
****en motec... $300 to unlock 1mb of logging... $560 to unlock lamba control, though I don't know
if I could just log the lamba values without that enabled or not.
That's about the price of a second hand Link... Sounds like you need to get rid of the car! I take it things like compression are fine?
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The other downside to underseal is if you take it off you can expect to end up quite rusty. I had my underseal gradually removed by driving on gravel rallies without underbody protection and the car ended up looking a mess, very rusty.
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Yes I live, and sorry if your one of the 240 people who sent me PMs over the last few years, I wasn't around.
Hey Viv, what do you want for it?
Any chance of a pic? its pretty much useless trying to take a photo of the one in the car.
Will see if I can dig it out of the lockup on my way home tonight. I have 3-4 from memory that I collected as spares for the rally car, so hopefully I still have them. But Timmmah's suggestion might be a cheaper way to go?
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I have a V7/8 one spare somewhere in the shed and am in Wellington.
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Front Brembos should bolt straight on, they did on my GC8. Main advantage is the bigger rotor, going from 294mm to 326mm. And they are a little thicker. Brembo's are also incredibly easy to replace pads on. However race pads are quite expensive for them I find.
So, STM have just chucked a boost tap on for now, and have it running at 22 psi and it's making 286 kw. It's a pretty conservative boost level and tune just -
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2001 Legacy Rev d heater not working
in Legacy & Outback
Posted
Have you actually cleaned out the heater? I had the exact same problem recently. Flushed the core out with the hose in both directions and I could see the rusty water coming out, did that a few times and put all back together, now have a heater that heats.