whatshouldiget?
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Posts posted by whatshouldiget?
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Ever hear the saying "you get what you pay for" - most of the time it's relatively accurate.
If you can afford a V9 and to modify it, I'm sure you can afford to have it tuned on a dyno
LOL im very familiar with that saying. I use it almost everyday (I manage a used car, caryard)but then again, it's not always true... Most would probably fall off their seats if i told you how much i paid for my V9 lol. All i really want is to check that the AFR etc are correct. Not too strung up on getting max power as the factory turbo/injector setup is limited to the low 200kws anyways so it's silly to spend up to 1.2k on a reflash. If i go bigger turbo and injectors then yes, i would get it put on the dyno and spend that extra.
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Anyone on the forum currently doing road tunes/reflashes?
Looking to get my V9 sti tuned/ecu reflashed. Basic mods include TBE, Intake and Walbro.
Had one of my previous V7 sti's done by Pappu/Spoon. Managed to get a hold of him once last week but haven't had a reply since and i'm pretty eager to get it done.
I'm aware places such as E&H, Torque performance etc do them, but i'm not willing to pay $1.2k considering it only cost $250 the last time.
Please PM me if you can help with a reflash or introduce me to someone who can
TIA
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Yeah the "heaps of mods" is lie. It's basically stock apart from the exhaust, fmic and split fuel rails. It's not worth the price hes asking. It would have been an alright buy at the price he got it for from my mate. That way you could spend some money on getting it back to a presentable state lol.
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Problem sorted. Broken engine mount. Took bolts off and the mount fell out in two pieces after a little wiggle lol it was Farked!!
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nah don't buy or swap it. I used to own it. Got ripped off by someone over the shore as i was in a rush to purchase a vehicle. 2 weeks later, i sold it to my mate for cheap. Motor rebuild is genuine and so is dccd gearbox but he had to take it back to subaru specialists a fair few times after the rebuild as problems were arising. Ended up $1 reserving it on trademe last month. The KMS are genuine but the body is ruff as. not on straight panel on it and paint is terrible. Bonnet, boot and R/F guard are a different shade of white as i replaced the originals with ones from a V3 sti ( had the intetions of getting a full panel and paint) From memory, rust was accumulating around the battery area and one of the guards had a decent rust patch. That guy bought it off my mate and the same night, listed it on facebook with an increased price. He's always trying to make an extra buck on vehicles ( not that it's a bad thing. Good on him if he can) IMO i would stay away from it. I was talking about this car with my mate tonight and he mentioned it had a intermittent fuel leak as well due to the split rail setup. Hope this helps
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I've had a look at rack myself but will get someone more educated to have a look. Yes full Rage TBE. My original thoughts were that the down pipe was touching the universal joint but there is a decent amount of clearance down there but it makes sense that the motor could be twisting down due to bad mounts. Hoping it's not Turbo as i'm not ready to have the car off the road yet while i wait for a rebuild. Will start with replacing engine mounts and a trans mount as well. Does anyone know where to buy some upgraded mounts from? ones that are a little stiffer than factory, similar to the STI group N ones off rallysport but sourced locally? Cheers
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Hey guys,
So as title states, I get this vibration under load in my sti which im having trouble diagnosing. It's mainly when i hit full boost. It's kind of hard to explain but i will try my best.
When i accelerate hard i feel this vibration through the steering and sort of a grinding noise comes along with it. It only happens under full boost. It doesn't happen if im half throttle or just cruising around. It's quite a nasty vibration, not enough that the whole car shakes but definitely enough to give you the "WTF is that" feeling. I purchased the car with this problem and originally thought it was just the power steering as that was shocking when i first purchased. I flushed the system, put a new o-ring in it and bled the system. Power steering is now fine but vibration is still there.
The guy i purchased it off took it into a garage and they came back and said it may be the turbo bearings or the internal gate nor opening fully (car has done high kms). I'm doubting that, as there is no whine or smoke and the turbo pulls rather well. I've had the car up on the hoist and everything looks normal. No play in anything except a L/F wheel bearing which i will be replacing next week. May even do the engine mounts as well. The C.V's look good and so does the steering rack. I had a look at the universal joints as well but they seem to be fine. It does have a 6puk clutch but i didn't think that would cause it shudder under load?
Anybody had a similar thing happen to their car? Looking for some ideas/opinions before i go spending hundreds of dollars on parts that won't solve the problem??
If anybody is confident they can accurately diagnose the problem, i'm more than happy to make a trip out to you with a box of your preferred beers so you can test drive
Any help will be appreciated as i would like to sort it out before it gets any worse or cause any real damage.
TIA
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New Wheels, front lip and hoping to get some coilovers this weekend
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Hey guys so i just bought a v9 sti and It's got noisey power steering syndrome. Now it's only when the car is cold, once car warms up, the noise goes away. I've done a fair bit of research and and i've come to the conclusion that it's not the pump itself, but the 3 rubber hoses that come off it along with the o-ring on top of the pump are worn out ( they all feel like hard plastic rather than rubber) causing air to get in. I've gone through the partsouq cataloge and managed to find all the parts i need (at reasonable prices) but unfortunately none of them are available. Now i've also tried almost all the wreckers i can think of and none of them have any hoses that don't feel like plastic. Only place that had parts available was winger Subaru but they said all of the parts were ex-japan and had to be brought in overseas. Quoted me $440 odd for 3 rubber hoses and a o-ring lol.
These are the genuine part numbers for the hoses and o-ring that i need:
O-ring- 34439f6000
Hose A- 34611FE140
Hose B- 130
Hose C- 030
If anyone can shed some light on the subject that would be great or even suggest some parts i can use instead of the genuine ones that will hold the pressure of the power steering pump/fluid
TIA
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They are located round the corner from redline performance by the cafe
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I contacted driftmax today but the guy said he has never had nor imported any before. Only one he has is the charge speed one. I asked if he was sure and he assured me they have never sold them as he was the one that did all the importing of parts
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Sweet as. cheers guys
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Hey guys not sure if this is the right section to post in, but i'm hoping someone on here can point me in the right direction on where to source a V-limited front lip for my V9 sti. I remember they use to sell on TM but i just had a quick look and no results.
TIA
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Autolign in auckland qouted me a Brand new set of teins for $365inc last time i checked. Maybe give them a call and ask for the best cash trade price they can do
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You will be fine with 215's. Little roll in the rear still recommended though
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Im going to assume the factory tire size for the BP wheels are 225 wide since thats whats on my car. If they are, you will need atleast a 5mm spacer in the rear, otherwise it will not clear the shock. A rear guard roll will be needed if you are lower than standard height. Even at standard height it probably wouldnt be a bad idea to roll them as it will most likely rub when you go over dips/bumps
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mine had silicone under manifold pipe, silicone airbox to undermanifold pipe, snorkelectomy (cut off the bottom of the resonator and resealed the guard pipe) fuel pump, 7 heat range plugs, 3 inch divorced turbo back and a lot of time spent tuning. i had my initial tune set up, then with logging i made another 43 major revisions and several hundred minor touch ups. was good for high 11 second quarters
Wow high 11's is amazing with stock turbo. Were you giving it death at the strip? e.g redline launching, flat shifting etc?
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Thats a crappy road tune imho...
Mine had vf30, 5psi at 2500 full boost (22.9) at 3200 and held it to redline, held rock solid with gfb controller, but mine had some really agressive avcs timing
Those stats were from the top of my head. not sure if accurate or not lol. It was early last year. I do remember it tapering down towards redline though. Pretty sure we got tuned by the same person (spoon). but maybe not....
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If your not hunting huge power, Get a hallman pro MBC or even a GFB one and spend the rest of the money towards a tune. I had a MBC on my previous V7 along with a road tune. Even in cold whether it would hit 20psi at 3.4k with no spiking in any gear till about 6.5k then drop to about 18psi to redline. The drop was cause the vf30 ran out of puff though.
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Raijin performance does road tunes. I think it was $450 from memory. Look Raijin performance up on google and all the info is on the site. Otherwise Pappu/Spoon on here, Not sure if he still does them.
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Normally yes but i have a set sitting in storage atm which i could sell to you at the right price
. Pm me
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Reflashes/Road tunes in Auckland
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
Yes, 20-40kw is a big difference and would change the car a decent amount(i experienced that with the V7 STI) What i'm trying to say is... Say i spend the $250 on a road tune, I'm sure to get at least a 20kw increase, better fuel economy, launch control etc. Now would you personally pay another 1k to possibly get another 20kw increase?
I personally would not. I would save that extra 1k and either put it aside for a dyno tune once/if i ever decide to go the bigger turbo and injector route. We all know how expensive the hobby of modifying cars is, I'm not trying to be "A cheap c***" Just trying to go the best bang for buck route.