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Tony

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Posts posted by Tony

  1. Most race supply/performance shops should be able to supply proper heat resistant brake duct hose, but it is quite pricey. If you don't want to fork out for that stuff then go to your local Blackwoods Protector (or Hose Supplies) store and ask for some TPR (Thermo Plastic Rubber) Duct hose. This works well and is a fair bit cheaper than the "proper" duct hose. Comes in a range of sizes so should be something to suit your set-up.

  2. Yeah done it on my car, drops about 10 or so degrees from the engine coolant temp (that was my reasoning for doing it). I used an RS legacy WAIC pump, got an alloy reservoir made up to hold the water, then plumbed it through a cooler that I have mounted in the RH side front guard area.

    you just need to blank off that port on the back of the RH head, and the one on the header tank that feeds the turbo and you are good to go.

    Let me know if you want some pics and I'll dig some out.

  3. I made my exhaust using V-bands and mig'd it together. haven't had any issues with it, no leaks etc. the v-bands I used were fairly decent ones, they had an extra lip on the inside which sits inside the mating flange so creates a better seal than the more common ones that have 2 flat faces that can slide against each other...

  4. I had an adapter made for my V4 pump to remote the reservoir (has a -10AN male fitting on top). In order to prevent issues with leaks, just have to make sure the base is perfectly flat so it seals on the o-ring, and also has a small lip that protrudes into the hole on the top of the pump.

    PSadapter_zps5b882d06.jpg

    (sorry, small crappy pic, but it was all I could find on my computer)

  5. The Hankook Z214, while a DOT rated tyre, is basically a full slick with 2 grooves around it, and a lot better (grippier) than what I would class as a "semi slick" with actual tread pattern. I have spoken with a few people who have raced on these tyres as well as the Hankook F200 full slick and they say there is virtually no performance difference, so personally, I would be fairly cautious on using these with a standard sumped Subaru (of course this is dependant on your particular driving style and how capable/set up your car is as well).

    Do you have a decent aftermarket ECU in the car? (ie: Link G4) - if so, then I would suggest fitting an oil pressure sensor and having a limit table set up that will activate a limiter to save the engine if oil pressure starts to drop. That is something that can be easily sorted before your track day on Monday. Just requires a sensor, a bit of wiring, and configuring settings in the ECU... if you are in Christchurch, then you could see if NZEFI could do the job for you.

  6.  Johnnynz said:
    Do 22B have wider headlights and/or parklights to fill the gap the wider guards make or is that gap you see on a lot of cars with fiberglass 22B guards a side affect of ****ty copied guards?

    I like the idea of having some 22B guards but the OCD in me wont let me have a dirty big gap by the parklight... I will struggle enough at the gap by the door.

    No they have normal head/park lights. Those Luxury Sports guards are just a bad design and look crap.

    Try Mike Shaw Fibreglass in Hamilton, he does a really nice fitting 22b kit to suit the 4 door.

  7. Does anyone in the Tauranga area have a late model WRX/STI (pref Version 8 onwards) that would like to help out a guy I know and have their car filmed to help him advertise a new product he is releasing?

    Basically he has got council, business, and police permission to have section of a street shut off to do the filming.

    He will be attaching his LED light strips to the car (they just stick on, so nothing permanant or damaging).

    This is what he has told me you will have to do:

    Drivers will do a standing start, drive hard towards a cone, turn at the cone, and drive back again - pretty simple.

    He has a film crew, and some drones to film it all.

    Driver will be given a copy of all the footage.

    Depending on the weather, this will take place on either the 28th, 29th, 30th, or 31st of this month (August). Start time will be 5pm.

    If anyone is keen to do this, and is available for the above dates/times drop me a pm and I can put you in touch with the guy.

    Thanks.

  8. Sweet as. Yeah my ones (in the pics) are +44. I sold the +38s to BT as he was after some light wheels for his GDB, and they suited his car better. The +38s on my car (GC) had the rear tyre getting a bit too close to the guard so that's why I stuck with the +44s as they had a bit more clearance.

    I can try get a pic of the +38 caliper clearance for you if you like? If Eddie has the car at the workshop I will get him to send a pic through to me... I'll let you know.

  9. hijacka, sorry if I seem to have offended you man. Just trying to help the guy that originally posted, as if those wheels on Trademe are genuine, and +38 they will clear his brakes. I am only basing it on the fact that I owned a set of TE37s in that same spec and they cleared.

    Eddie's wheels in the pic I posted are also genuine (yeah I know, sh*t pic to illustrate the point but hey, didnt have any other ones of his car).

    Not all of the TE37s have those stampings on the inner lip either - none of my ones do:

    Rays1_zpsf35ccadf.jpg

    Rays2_zpscd7b9ab5.jpg

    Rays3_zpsee19d18f.jpg

    Maybe it has something to do with the age of them, and the older ones dont have these stampings (see the date on the sticker - 2004)? At a guess I would say that maybe Rays started to add these stampings from a certain date due to the large amount of knock offs that started popping up?

    Anyways, the op can make up his own mind from the info we have provided and take from it what he wants :)

  10. As I said earlier, I used to have a set of +38 TE37s and they DO clear Brembos.

    Aaaaaaand, here is pic of my mates car with another set of +38 TE37s (17x8) also clearing Brembos, with no spacers:

    EddieSpecC_zps97fb445c.jpg

    So *maybe* that website that someone else posted hasnt quite got their facts right?

  11.  boon said:
    I will shortly have a 4.44 viscous LSD and a 3.9 plate LSD.

    Can I take the crown wheel and pinion from the 4.44 diff and put them on the guts of the 3.9 diff to end up with a 4.44 plate diff, or am I completely tripping?

    Yep, as long as they are both of the same type (R160 or R180) then you are good to go. You may have to play around with re-setting the backlash once done though.

  12.  Munkvy said:
    Yeah good experience and all our mechanical dramas happened in the practice and qualifying, including a strut falling apart! So we got a little lucky..!

    Good fun, but will definitely need ear plugs for the last round at Hampton Downs. Will you be there too? That was the Spoon Honda I am guessing?

    Sweet, that was lucky! Where did you guys finish up overall?

    Yeah the Spoon Honda was the one I was with (we look after it at work). I should be at Hamptons, although I am also supposed to be going home to Palmy that weekend so will have to see how it all plays out - we will also have the other Spoon car to look after for that round. If I am there I will come and find you - do you drive the first stint or the last?

  13.  Munkvy said:
    Not my car, but still had fun. Drove this round in circles in Taupo last weekend at the endurance race:

    th_IMG_6750_zps0ae6b758.jpg

    3 hour race with a mate, so did 1.5 hours each. Good learning experience as haven't done much door to door stuff before.

    Awesome stuff! Didn't realize it was you driving, would have been a lot of fun. Your car was quite loud when I was standing on pit wall! (I was crewing for the yellow and blue Honda)

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