D3ft0n3s

Mate if only if only~! but no one\'s gonna buy it with a CEL.

mmmmmmmmmmmk so Scanned for codes, no codes present, light still on, cleared codes, light STILL on. They started a couple times, light went off. Went for a drive, light stayed off, Driving home, light comes on.. F**K! Looked at function of O2 sensor, it was flat, no matter what we did with throttle, conclusion, o2 sensor is tripping the ECU. Really pisses me off, cause i dont want to spend $600 on a new one, and it was replaced with one literally 1 day before i got the car, but it was from the states on ebay, $600ish in NZ, $180 from the US, doesnt that sound chinese? Anyway, when it goes back in on next thursday for the clutch adjustment there going to check the o2 sensor thoroughly, and if it needs replaced, hopefully get a Bosch equivalent or something for cheaper than the oem. Anyone know about cheaper ones than the oem that are reliable?

Seriously though. It\'s been to what, like 7 different garages? And apparently had a dyno run and what sounds like a re-tune, all while it apparently was running kinda wrong... I mean nothing wrong with going somewhere else when the guys have no idea but it sounds like you\'re fighting a bit of an uphill battle with it. its been to some dork in ashburton that apparently builds racecars, wouldnt take it back to him, he wouldnt know shit apparently. Its been to armstrongs, there were equally as useless, $380 to find nothing wrong *bullshit, there\'s something wrong* Its been to rapid performance in timaru, they replaced maf and re-tuned, and it went fine, for a bit. now has a CEL, perhaps just finally coming through from whatever sensor has failed, its going back to them tomorrow. The clutch was done by the guy in ashvegas, always felt strange, but didnt slip. So not quite 7 and it is going back to the garage that does know.

wow thanks very helpful. car is getting scanned tomorrow so I\'ll update

And just as im cruising home really really nana like tonight so i dont spoil the clutch if it is out of adjustment got a CEL Mother F**ker!

grub screw just cause I hear the stock bov will bleed a bit of boost off clutch was not launched ever it\'s been babied cause car had performance problems talked to tuner today he said probably not adjusted or bled hydtolic properly goes in Thursday for check if it\'s bad surely it had a warranty. genuine oem clutch used

Yeap ill be taking it to them on Thursday (first day / night off) just wanted to know if people had similar problems before

Ok, before, had a flat spot, at about 3000 - 4000 sounded like turbo wasnt spooling at this point, generally ran like crap, found it was in safe mode. After does what happens in the video, but only SOMETIMES, which is a bit annoying. at one stage i thought the clutch slipped, but surely it cant if its only 2000k old?? Oh and after apart from what the video shows it goes like a cat with its balls in a vice. [quote name='reaperblitz said: If it still climbs even tho the rpm and speedo sits at "4000" rpm, wouldn\'t that be either wiring or speed sensor/ rpm? I\'m just throwing it out there but if its intermittent and only happens in the upper limits (speed and gear) it will be hard to keep replicating the problem. Yeap, that is a possiblity also, but how to tell i dont really know. The car was test driven by the tuner somewhere in the country, he said he gave it plenty and had no problems with it. I reckon, boost might be leaking at higher RPM, hence why i asked about the BOV grub screw mod, anyone done it? any good? Also, i reckon my fuel filter might be needing changed, spark plugs are working PRF6G\'s but i think cause of the tune i might benefit changing them / different ones, any recommendations? I also want to seafoam it beofore next oil change, anyone done that? any good? and change the air filter to a highflow one, it has the standard oem box paper one. I realise that all of that ^^^^ probably wont help, but from cruising round early this morning waking everyone up in the country it wouldnt do it after the car was proper hot hot, and no burning clutch smell, i did warm the car up properly before taking it for a run, but as the run went on the problems got less. Weird, either im paranoid and should just leave it alone, or its something else. I can try get another video later of it

no not exactly the same problem yes was logged said it was all fine. standard box intake (I won\'t do pod) factory bov like I said tried to get it to do it after this and it just pulled and went ballistic fast. ... there\'s def no speed cut

yes diagnostics were down hence new maf. lof afm afr? it\'s had full reflash doesn\'t seem to make any unusual noises. that video was early in my run took it out in the country tried to re create problem but it just went like fuck another point to note is clutch is 2000k old and hasn\'t had power thrown at it cause car had an issue. fairly sure it\'s a standard one...can they handle the 248hp the dyno said I got? surely it can? ??

ok Video speaks a million words more than a photo, only one cause man our internet is shit took ages to upload. please ignore me talking in the background. im thinking that perhaps my BOV is leaking via the hole that has not had the grubscrew put in yet... Anyone done that mod? good?

possible...best way to do leak test? I might add I\'m on night shift and it seems to happen worse when outside air (not car) is colder. got video of it in the afternoon but not as bad. will try do another tonight on way home

it\'s been tried wasn\'t the problem. got a video of it today will upload when I get home. it is near the 180 mark....private road. it\'s doing it in fifth but car will do it from third up. will try get better one on way home

After much investigation with the torch, i found the knock sensor.... Sitting ontop of the intake manifold (facing car) RHS bottom corner of where intercooler is. Weird. Why put it there? Its not going to hear anything if there is knock is it???? Not happy, taking it back on monday. Edit : This is my old thread http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,31828.0.html

As an additional note, when i was having previous problems, a new knock sensor was tried, problems didnt change, so old knock sensor was put back on again. What are the HT leads worth and where can i get some?

2002 v7. non sti he said he relocated it but I haven\'t looked to see he has. intercooler hasn\'t been moved. its weird

Ok this might get shifted, but anyway. Took my car to rapid performance in timaru, with the previous problem (it was like the boost was stalling then going again) So, they have put on turbo back exhaust, a brand new MAF, and tuned it. Dyno shows it making 248hp @ 14.5psi boost in 4th. What i noticed when thrashing it a bit though is : When ya boot it in 4th, it revs up to 4000 rpm really quick, sits there, it sounds like the engine is catching up or something, then revs past it, also the rev counter fluctuates a little, like drops to 3500 then to 4000 then down then up, then past it. This isnt normal is it? Ill be taking it back to them on Monday, but just thought id see if anyone had any suggestions? Fuel pump has been done, coil packs are new, spark plugs are PRF6G's but MIGHT need doing, MAF is new, knock sensor was relocated by rapid, its running 98, turbo back exhaust, air filter is 3000k old, oil is just in car. Cant think of anything else. To the op, please dont put this with my other thread as its not the same problem Any suggestions people?

..... gets out the dead horse and gives it a beat. so I'm still running an mbc (yes if hijacka is reading get an ebc it's happening but this must be mentioned) got the mbc set pretty good I reckon but the flat spot is still there. but now it happens from 4000 - 4500 rpm. boost to there boost stops has a quick struggle then pulls again. which leads me to believe....its not the boost controller causing it. either that or its to do with maf or the fact that the factory boost controller is still plugged in. thoughts people? only reason I mention it if hijacka is reading is cause it shouldn't happen with the tap

Right doing that as soon as i get time pretty flat out. also i noticed this spot is oily, hoses look slightly wet, just blow by and shit hoses or something more serious?

also checked my oil. checked 1000k ago after it coming back from among other things the tappet gasket replaced was full or very slightly under. checked it now and it's just above low... where is it going? it doesn't appear to be burning. compression test? no leaks but did notice minimal oil on top of block if you look down left hand side (facing) intercooler. wrong oil used?

ok just noticed this. http://db.tt/S8MQvEnf anyone any ideas what the black s*** is? could this be my problem? coolant looks fine

Id put money on wheel bearing. Jack the car up, spin the wheel, does it grind? its the bearing. whiggle the wheel (carefully, if the jack falls, well, i mean what is this acc?) lots of play, ya bearings are probably stuffed. Ever had them replaced? How many k on the car?

That's what im after, so what muffler is that just an sti genome one? And where would i get one PS thanks to the moderator that changed the name of the thread

Cheers for that mate What about catless up pipe? heard of this issue and it being changed? I'm going for quiet not loud, can they still be quiet but large flow?

Ok So, just a thought, anyone got any thoughts on the Xforce turbo back exhausts you can get on trademe, or the drift max? Good? not worth it? better to get one built? Loud? I'm after one, not spending heaps, not doing headers, but probably will do an uppipe to remove the CAT (apparently 02 wrx has one in the uppipe and the exhaust) The car is going to be standard apart from the exhaust and EBC, is it worth doing the exhaust? benefits? (apart from hp gain post tune) can it be done so that it flows but isnt loud? Anyone got any ideas what id expect to pay?